中式運動鞋炫酷回歸

2009-12-31 00:00:00胡珊寶

新東方英語·中學版 2009年8期

都說“外來的和尚會念經”，這句話用來形容中國傳統品牌的運動鞋風潮一點兒也不假。在中國幾近銷聲匿跡的解放鞋和回力鞋，稍作包裝后遠銷歐美市場，未曾料想卻獲得了時尚雜志和潮流達人的空前“追捧”。而當這些品牌繞了一圈再次回國時，也成功俘獲了眾多追求個性前衛的年輕人的心。這種風潮是好是壞，是曇花一現還是會永垂不朽，或許只能留待時間證明。

During the shooting of New York， I Love You in 2008， Orlando Bloom was spotted wearing a pair of Feiyue sneakers. This picture quickly made the rounds1) on the web. Shortly after that， more and more people both from home and abroad know Feiyue， the reinvention in the west of the old Chinese brand of Feiyue.

2008年，電影《紐約，我愛你》的攝制期間，有人拍到著名影星奧蘭多·布洛姆腳穿一雙飛躍牌運動鞋，然后這張照片便在網絡上迅速傳開了。之后沒過多久，飛躍牌，這個經過西方再度創新的中國老牌子，逐漸被國內外越來越多的人所知曉。

Feiyue = Flying Forward 飛躍=飛向前方

Feiyue shoes were born in Shanghai in the 1920's. It has been a reference among all Chinese social categories from the countryman to the politician， from the captain of the National Soccer Team to the famous Shaolin masters...Feiyue became famous during the 1930's for its robustness2)， its flexibility and its comfort， essential requirements for Chinese martial arts. According to Chinese tradition， Feiyue symbolizes the dual3) elevation4) of both body and mind.

In 2005， Patrice Bastian， a globe trotter5) living in Shanghai with an unconditional passion for \"sneakers\"， decided to team up with friend and graphic designer Charles Munka to lift up the image and looks of Feiyue. With the help of Nicolas Seguy and Clement Fauth， an ideal team was then built to give Feiyue back its noble touch. After a creative modification， yet keeping Feiyue's vintage6) touch， hard work on quality requirements bound to western markets has been done. Thus， in February 2006， the first real Feiyue collection was born， with a brand new meaning of \"Flying Forward\". It came from China， with combination of classical， Kung Fu and fashion elements. At the same time， Feiyue gained spotlight on many world mainstream fashion magazine. Customers were crazy about it， shoes are being sold in London and Paris for 40 to 50 Euro for a pair.

飛躍牌運動鞋誕生于20世紀20年代的上海。從鄉下人到政治家，從國家足球隊隊長到著名的少林武僧，中國社會各階層都能看到飛躍運動鞋的身影。飛躍鞋耐穿、有彈性而且舒適，完全滿足中國功夫的基本要求，因此在20世紀30年代飛躍成了著名品牌。按中國傳統的說法，飛躍象征著身體上和精神上的雙重提升。

2005年，一位在上海居住、對“運動鞋”懷有無限激情的旅游愛好者帕特里斯·巴斯蒂安，決定和他的美術設計師朋友查爾斯·蒙卡合作，一起提升飛躍的品牌形象和外觀。在尼古拉·塞吉和克萊門特·福特的幫助下，他們隨后組建了一支夢之隊來恢復飛躍的高貴格調。他們做了很多艱苦的工作，如在保持飛躍古老風格的同時對其進行一番創新性的改造，使飛躍達到了開拓西方市場的質量要求。于是，2006年2月，第一批真正的新“飛躍”誕生了，而且它被賦予了一個全新的涵義“飛向前方”。新飛躍來源于中國，并集中國經典功夫和當代時尚元素于一體。同時，在全世界各主流時尚雜志上，飛躍也獲得了格外關注。人們為之瘋狂，而在倫敦和巴黎，飛躍鞋的售價甚至高達每雙40至50歐元。

Warrior Is Back， Too “回力”也回歸了

Old Chinese sneaker brands have been getting a lot of attention these days. In addition to Feiyue， another old Chinese sneaker brand \"Huili\"， with its English trademark Warrior， is also back.

Remember the thousands of martial art exponents7) leaping in synchrony8) in the Beijing 2008 opening ceremony? They were assisted by Warrior shoes!

During the 1970s， Warrior brand sneakers were the hottest shoes in China because of its bright， clean design. Continuing into the 1980s， the shoes remained a status symbol for Chinese teenagers who were well-off enough to don9) a pair of famous Warriors. However， with the economic reforms and subsequent wealth of the country， the younger generation began to look to10) brands like Adidas， Nike， Converse， Reebok， etc. Therefore， Warrior became less popular.

However， as more and more young people are seeking to differentiate themselves through their style， Warrior has become successful again. The brand is following its similar appeal in the 1970s as a form of rebellious11) expression. The sneaker is becoming extremely popular with trend spotters， artists， designers， and retro fans around the world. And now， Chinese wear Warrior shoes again to show their own fashion style of China. In Beijing， you can see more and more youth wear the navy's shirt， and Warrior shoes.

Fascinated by this story， Shumeng Ye， a graphic design student from China， documented the folks who wore these shoes， also capturing their lifestyle at the same time. This photography book， Book of Warriors， which features people wearing Warriors in various areas of China， was released recently. With this book， the author hopes to use the Warrior brand \"to tell the story behind the shoes and show a different side of China， not the industrial and economical power， but the daily life of a country with its own distinctive sneaker culture.\"

現如今，中國古老的運動鞋品牌逐漸獲得了廣泛關注。除了飛躍，另一個中國老牌運動鞋“回力”，帶著它的英文商標“勇士”也回歸了(編者注:“回力”商標于1935年注冊，由其英文商標“Warrior”音譯而來，寓有“回天之力”的含義，喻指“能戰勝困難的巨大力量”)。

還記得北京2008年奧運會開幕式上數千名武術展示者同時躍起的畫面嗎?他們的腳上都穿著回力鞋!

20世紀70年代，回力牌運動鞋以其明朗簡潔的設計，成了中國最炙手可熱的運動鞋品牌。進入20世紀80年代后，回力牌運動鞋仍然是中國青少年身份地位的象征，只有家庭足夠富裕的年輕人才穿得起這樣一雙著名的回力運動鞋。但是，隨著經濟改革及隨后國力的增長，更為年輕的一代開始傾情于阿迪達斯、耐克、匡威、銳步等品牌。因此，回力鞋也不如從前那樣受歡迎了。

然而，隨著越來越多的年輕人為突顯自我而尋求屬于他們自己的風格，回力再次獲得了成功。該品牌延續了與它在20世紀70年代相似的吸引力，成為一種表達叛逆的形式。在全世界的潮流達人、藝術家、設計師以及崇尚復古時尚的粉絲中，回力牌運動鞋變得極為流行起來。而現在，中國人又再一次穿起了回力鞋，以此表達他們自己的中國時尚風格。在北京，你能看到越來越多的年輕人身著海軍衫，腳穿回力鞋。

一位中國的美術設計學生葉淑萌(音譯)，因為被回力鞋的故事所吸引，記錄下了腳穿回力鞋的人群，同時也捕捉下了他們的生活方式。這本于近日發行的、名為《回力之書》的攝影作品集展示了中國各地區穿著回力運動鞋的人們。通過這本書，作者希望用回力這一品牌來“講述鞋子背后的故事，并展現出中國與眾不同的另一面。這一面不是展現其工業和經濟實力，而是通過獨特的運動鞋文化，展現一個國家的日常生活。”

Ospop， Design Inspired By \"Jiefang Xie\" 奧斯本，“解放鞋”啟發的設計靈感

Ben Walters moved to Shanghai in 2003. What struck him most? The shoes the laborers wore: tough， comfortable， and surprisingly chic12). Walters decided to make a similar version to sell in the U.S. In 2007， he started his own brand Ospop (One Small Point of Pride).

The brand's first offerings13) are the Tian Lang Trainers， known and loved by millions of blue collar Chinese workers. Like the Warrior Shoes， the Trainers are popular for both their utilitarian14) nature and iconic15) design. Ospop worked closely with the Tian Lang factory to produce a version that stays true to the original design while employing better materials to create a more durable and comfortable shoe. Ospop features two versions， the Skywolf and the Departure. The Skywolf comes in the three colors normally worn by Chinese workers. The Departure comes in six nontraditional， more fashion-friendly colors. Both styles are sold at $76 a pair.

2003年本·沃爾特斯來到上海。令他印象最深刻的是什么?是體力勞動者們穿的鞋:結實、舒適而且別致得不可思議。沃爾特斯決定生產類似風格的鞋子在美國出售。2007年，他創立了他自己的品牌奧斯本(Ospop， One Small Point of Pride的縮寫，意為“一丁點驕傲”)。

該品牌上市的第一批鞋是數百萬中國藍領人士所熟知而喜愛的天狼運動鞋。如同回力運動鞋一樣，天狼運動鞋因其實用的性能和傳統的設計而為世人所知。奧斯本與天狼制鞋廠密切合作，在堅持原有設計風格的同時采用更好材質生產更耐用、舒適的鞋子。奧斯本有兩個主打版本，即“天狼”和“起飛”。天狼版有三種顏色，而這三種顏色都是中國的體力勞動者經常穿的。而起飛版則采用了非傳統、更具時尚意味的六種顏色。兩種風格的運動鞋售價都高達76美元一雙。

More and more Chinese brands are finding their niche16) in overseas markets. Only time will tell if this is just a trend or a Chinese brand made to stay.

越來越多的中國品牌正在逐步發現適合它們的海外市場。只有時間才能證明，這是一股短期的潮流還是中國品牌長遠的生存方式。

Vocabulary

1.make the rounds: = go the rounds ，(消息等)被傳播

2.robustness [rEu5bQstnIs] n. (器具等)結實，堅固耐用

3.dual [5dju(:)El] adj. 雙倍的;二重的;雙重

4.elevation [7elI5veIFEn] n. 提高;提升，晉級

5.globe trotter: 四處游歷的人，旅游愛好者;trot [trCt] vi. (人)小步跑，慢跑;快步走，匆匆忙忙地走;trotter [5trCtE(r)] n. 快步走的人

6.vintage [5vIntIdV] adj. 古老的，古老而有聲譽的

7.exponent [Ik5spEunEnt] n. 代表者，代表物

8.synchrony [5sINkrEnI] n. 同時(性);同步(性)

9.don [dCn] vt. 披上，穿上，戴上;身穿(某種顏色或某種料子的衣服)