老胡同:本色濟南

北京自然是中國胡同文化的代表。由于北京古時城建就有嚴格規劃，所以胡同都比較直，縱橫交織，從而構成了方方正正的北京城。由于住宅是坐北朝南的四合院，相互排比而組成胡同，所以東西向的胡同多，南北向的胡同少。而這種規劃正是吸取歷代帝都的建造經驗，體現了中國歷代建造城市的傳統特色。

濟南地處北京腹地，是連接南北之要沖。隨著北京政治地位的不斷提高，濟南的政治、經濟和文化與北京聯系也日益緊密。尤其到了元代，屬元王朝的“腹里”地區，直隸于中書省。因此城市布局及街巷便以大都為模式。明初，曾置山東行省，濟南始為山東首府，是山東布政使司、都指揮使司及按察使司駐地。從此，濟南成為山東地區的政治中心。濟南城市地位的提高，使濟南也與北京長得越來越像了，只是“塊頭”小了許多。也正是鑒于此，濟南也有屬于自己的胡同文化。

作為府署之地，濟南的老城布局自然固襲“左祖右社，面朝后市”的傳統形式，但憑籍依山臨水之地勢，多了幾許活潑與變化。以珍珠泉畔明德王府及清巡撫衙門為中心，東西軸線明晰。南北軸線止于城垣，不與南門相通。布政司、貢院、榜棚在西。按察司、濟南府衙、歷城縣衙居東。各色廟宇、家祠等均環繞中心布置。府學文廟書院、說書場、戲園子則位于環境幽雅、風光秀麗的大明湖東南岸。軍營、衛衙等則設在城南高地。濟南的這些胡同，作為城市的骨架和脈絡，形成了縱橫交織的棋盤，或者說是城市之網，使偌大個城市規規矩矩、井然有序。

比較而言，京城的胡同總是盛氣凌人，寬敞筆直。最寬的胡同靈境胡同，最寬處達32米;最長的胡同東交民巷長達3公里。而歷史上的濟南從來不是一座大城市，少了些許都城的氣派，加之由于受老城地勢的限制，這里的街巷多狹窄而短促。于是，濟南的胡同也就有了更多的平民化的質樸、親近和隨意。無論是縣、府、督(省)三級衙署聚集地，還是寺、廟宮、觀，貢院及各色書院、私塾、義學和學堂，以及多如牛毛的商業老字號，包括飯館、書店、古玩店，還有會館等等，從不顯山露水。

濟南胡同的名字客觀反映了濟南厚重的歷史和文化特征。濟南胡同命名的方式主要有以下幾種形式:以地形特色、景物命名，如墻縫巷(后稱巷鳳巷)、轆轤把子街、牛頭巷、褲襠巷、棋盤街、東流水街、土街、斜街、城頂街等;以官府、軍營舊址命名，如院前街、布政司街、按察司街、縣前街、縣后街、縣西巷、縣東巷、小王府街、舊軍門巷、后營房街、營盤街;以建筑或遺址命名，如北門里街、貢院墻根街、鐘樓寺街、禮拜寺巷、榜棚街、壽佛樓街、王府池子街、庠門里街、秋柳園街、閣子西街、匯泉寺街、東西花墻子街、西券門巷;以民間傳說命名，如鞭指巷、金菊巷、起鳳橋街;以人物姓氏命名，如司家碼頭街、華家井、羅家胡同、苗家巷、思敏街、徐家花園、柴家巷、郝家巷、魏家胡同;以商業故地和商業名稱命名，如杉篙園街、剪子巷、篦子巷、花市街、馬市街、茶巷、估衣市街等等。而其中有很多胡同以泉命名，與泉相伴，如趵突泉前街、王府池子街、江家池巷、平泉胡同、芙蓉街、馬跑泉街、涌泉胡同等等，成為濟南老街巷的一大特色。

濟南當年之所以申報國家級歷史文化名城能取得成功，在歷史街區方面主要有三條依據:一是以司里街與所里街為代表，與黑虎泉泉群結合在一起;二是以剪子巷為代表，與趵突泉水系融合;三是以芙蓉街為代表，與曲水亭、王府池子、芙蓉泉等結合在一起的歷史風貌區。這三條著名的老街老巷代表著“家家泉水，戶戶垂柳”的泉城特色。而且在這些街巷上保存有大量明清以至民國時期的傳統宅院，是自然與人文完美結合的典范。

到了近代，尤其濟南自開商埠以來，受外來文化的影響，濟南市區也多了些上海里弄式的街巷。所謂里弄，是江南傳統民居風格結合西方近代城市排聯式建筑形式，由諸多單元組成的石庫門或聯體公寓組成的建筑群落，建筑群之間形成的狹窄通道，便被上海人稱之為“里弄”，或謂之“弄堂”。老濟南人則將這種與傳統的胡同迥然有別的街道稱之為“里分”。像魏家莊一帶的民康里、普安里、長春里，緯四路的福東里，經七路附近的上海新村五里牌坊的福德里等等，也多了些整齊劃一式的里弄式建筑。但除了民康里濟南紅萬字會施醫所和上海新村的建筑外，里分中的建筑總體上與上海灘上的石庫門建筑大不相同，除少量建筑在外形、裝飾、用材等細部彰顯外來文化的特征外，絕大部分建筑與當地的四合院相互融合，中西合璧，顯示出濟南地域文化特有的樸實、內斂、包容、同化的氣質。

老城里的胡同雖離大街不遠，卻也有所阻隔，相對封閉，無車馬之喧。寧靜、安全與溫暖是昔日胡同的一大特色。男女老幼，見面打招呼，聊個家常里短，都是那樣輕松和愜意。到了冬天，老人們不約而同，提著馬扎，在胡同口找個背風的墻根處坐下，盡享陽光的溫暖。而一旦來了走街穿巷吹糖人的、賣糖葫蘆的、磨剪子鏘菜刀的，便引起胡同里孩子們的追逐和圍觀。

胡同，是濟南百姓昨日的溫柔鄉，是濟南過往歷史的載體和活化石，更是濟南這座平民化城市最為本色、最為市井的寫照。每條胡同都仿佛一位老者，有說不完道不盡的故事……

Beijing is the representative of Chinese alley culture. Because the strict planning in urban construction in ancient times， all alleys are straight and intersecting thus constituting the square Beijing City. The houses are quadrangle courtyards that face south and are arranged in order， thus Alleys are formed， most of which run east to west， with fewer going north to south. Such kind of planning exactly adopts the construction experience of past dynasties， which embodies the traditional characteristics of city construction in the past dynasties of China.

Located in the hinterland of Beijing， Jinan is a hub connecting south and north. Along with the improvement of Beijing’s political status， the connection between Jinan and Beijing grew increasingly closer in politics， economy and culture. Particularly in the Yuan Dynasty (A.D.1206~1368)， Jinan was the “backland”， directly belonged to the secretariats. Therefore， the city layout and street design took Beijing as the model. In the early Ming Dynasty (A.D.1368~1644)， Shandong Province was established， taking Jinan as its capital for the first time. It is also the place where Shandong Administrative Division， Military Command Office and Judicial Office stood. From then on， Jinan became the political center of Shandong Province. The improving position helped Jinan to keep in step closely with Beijing and be increasingly similar except that the area for Jinan is smaller than Beijing. For this reason， Jinan has developed an alley culture with its own features.

As the capital city， Jinan old city pattern inherits the traditional form. But it becomes lively and flexible due to its embracing mountains and waters. The east-west axis is distinct， taking Mingde Mansion and Governor Yamen of the Qing Dynasty (A.D.1644~1911) as its center. The south-north axis ends at the city wall， but not connects with the south gate. To the west are Buzhengsi， Gongyuan， and Pangpeng; to the east are Anchasi， Jinan Prefecture and Licheng County. All various temples and family ancestral halls are designed surrounding the center. The Fuxue Wenmiao College， story-telling field and theatre are located in the southeast bank of the Daming Lake which possesses quiet environment and beautiful scenery. The Military Camp and Yamen (government office in feudal China) stand at highland in the south of the city. As the framework of Jinan， the alleys form an interweaving chessboard or city network， which contributes to the orderliness of such a big city.

Comparatively speaking， a Beijing alley is always domineering， spacious and straight. Lingjing Alley， the widest one in Beijing， is 32m wide at the maximum; and Dongjiaominxiang， the longest one， is 3km long. However， the building of each quadrangle courtyard is extremely particular about the strict social strata. Just examining every gate tower facing the alley you can get knowledge of the host’s social status. However Jinan has never been a large city in history so she lacks the style required of a capital city.