幾多名人胡同里

老早老早以前，一個詩人在大明湖畔就寫下了一句經典:“海右此亭古，濟南名士多。”逛濟南，不去那么多名人居住生活過的胡同里轉轉、看看，就會遺憾。走進名人輩出的胡同，也就走進了濟南的歷史、走進了濟南文化的魅力深處。

濟南歷史上一共出過兩個狀元，一個是元代的張起巖，他是元延二年(1315年)的左榜狀元。另一個是清光緒九年(1883年)癸未科一甲一名陳冕。張起巖按下不表，單說這陳冕狀元。陳冕的狀元府邸，就在鞭指巷的北端路西的9號、11號大院。

陳冕自幼天資聰穎，勤奮好學，幼年一直生活在鞭指巷。14歲那年，他去順天宛平求學，從師于山東籍舉人、翰林院編修王芷庭，并在當年考中秀才。16歲考中舉人，一時名聲大噪。24歲那年，他踏入禮部貢院參加考試，三場考試下來，榜上有名。當年四月二十一日，癸未科殿試在京都保和殿進行，陳冕躊躇滿志走進考場，奮筆疾書對策:“臣對:臣聞漢廷射策，蕭望之以儒宗顯，倪寬以經學稱。” 結果，陳冕大魁天下，成為中國歷史上最年輕的狀元之一。

陳冕的一生雖然短暫，只活了35歲，但在身后卻贏得了“賑災狀元”、“慈善狀元”和“愛民狀元”的美譽。就在陳冕中狀元的那一年，黃河決口，山東歷城、鄒平、利津等縣40余萬災民無家可歸。陳冕和其父陳恩壽一次捐出數萬銀兩救災，并親自到抗洪前線參加救災工作。經過幾次抗洪救災，陳冕將祖父經營鹽業積攢的錢財捐出了多半。

據陳氏后人介紹，當年的狀元府是由二十個古樸典雅的四合院和一處花園組成。它東起鞭指巷，西至西熨斗隅巷。現在的9號、11號大院只是狀元府邸的一部分。陳冕的書房設在狀元府北院西八院的北屋，屋前曾掛有“小墨墨齋”牌匾。書房北面的二層樓(現西熨斗隅巷2號)曾是陳冕的藏書樓。

濼源大街路南有一條叫南新街的胡同。文學大師老舍曾在濟南住過四個地方，其中兩處已遭破壞，剩下的兩處只有南新街58號掛上了市政府頒發的“老舍故居”的牌子。這處故居依舊保留著原來四合院的格局，院子里那口老舍用過的老井還存在。當年，老舍就是用這井里的水養魚澆花、洗筆洗硯;喝著這井里的水，寫下了《貓城記》、《離婚》，《月牙兒》、《斷魂槍》等作品。還有我們耳熟能詳的散文隨筆，如《濟南的秋天》、《濟南的冬天》等等。

在這里，除了寫作授課之外，老舍還結交了許多朋友，其中包括洋車夫、拳師、曲藝藝人等社會下層的勞動人民。老舍在《吊濟南》一文中寫道:“無論什么時候我從那里過，總有人笑臉地招呼我;無論我到何處去，那里總有人惦記著我，濟南就成了我的第二故鄉。”

90多年前，一個六七歲的男孩在濟南南關的胡同里度過了他快樂有趣的青少年時代。那時候，在上學路上他擠到朝山街看行刑的，放學后或爬到樹上看宰豬，或躲在路邊工地上看閑書。在學校里，他曾帶頭給老師起外號，還兼作了一次小買賣。九月九山會期間，頑皮的他竟一有機會便逃課鉆進席棚去聽戲。

這個鄉下男孩，于1917年陰歷年時分來投靠叔叔，住在佛山街(今佛山苑小區內)。到濟南不久，叔叔便把他送到離家不遠的曹家巷(今朝山街南端路東，1980年整頓門牌時，為別于市區內另一曹家巷，改名南曹家巷)一家私塾去念書。到濟南的第二年，七歲的他便上了山東省立第一師范附屬小學。當時，一師附小的校長由著名教育家王祝晨兼任，他同鞠思敏同為山東教育界元老。王祝晨是當時的新派人物，受“五四”新文化運動的影響，主張白話文教學。男孩用的課本里選了一篇名傳世界的童話，名為“阿拉伯的駱駝”。

后來他轉學到了三合街南首的新育小學。這新育小學，后來曾是中國共產黨創始人之一的王盡美的秘密辦公地點，再后來，還曾培養出了世界級電影明星鞏俐。那個當時的九歲男孩80年后在回憶文章中寫道:“后來我轉到新育小學(后改稱三合街小學)，每天下午下課以后，就躲到附近工地一個堆磚的角落，大看舊武俠小說，什么《彭公案》、《施公案》、《東周列國志》、《封神演義》、《說岳》等等。不認識的字當然很多，看了幾年閑書，卻覺得收獲很大。我以后寫文章，思路和文筆就比較通暢。所以我痛感今天的青年閑書看得還不夠。”

新育小學畢業后，他又考上了大明湖南畔的正誼中學。1929年他又到桿石橋西邊的濟南高中讀書一年。此后離開濟南，四年清華，十年留德。他，就是后來的一代東方鴻儒、國學大師、學界泰斗、著名翻譯家、文學家、教育家季羨林先生。

濟南胡同里出名人:秦瓊、周密、張養浩、王士禎、馬國翰、路大荒等，這樣的名單可以開列出長長的一串。所以，走在濟南的胡同里，你會隨時被一種濃濃的人文氣息所包圍。

A long time ago， a poet wrote a classical poem besides Daming Lake: “The ancient Lixia Pavilion is to the west of the sea and Jinan breeds many celebrities”. It would be a great pity for a traveler to leave without seeing the alleys once lived in by so many celebrities. Accessing the alleys that have bred many celebrities means approaching Jinan’s history and the greatest charm of Jinan culture.

There are two No. one Scholars in Jinan’s history. One was Zhang Qiyan in the Yuan Dynasty (A.D.1206~1368)， the other was Chen Mian in the Qing Dynasty (A.D.1644~1911). The No. one Scholar Mansion of Chen Mian is located in No.9 and No.11 courtyards to the west of the north end of Bianzhi Alley. Chen Mian was ingenious and diligent from a child. He lived in Bianzhi Alley through his childhood. When he was 14， he pursued his schooling in Wanping， Shuntian (today it is part of Beijing)， and took Wang Zhiting as his teacher， and successfully passed the examination at the county level in the same year. (Wang Zhiting， his teacher， was born in Shandong Province. He successfully passed the imperial examination at the provincial level and also served as an editor in Hanlin Academy) Afterwards， he gained great reputation when he was 16 for he successfully passed the imperial examination at the provincial level. At 24， he entered for the examination at the examination hall of the Ministry of Rites of feudal China and became one of the successful candidates. On April 21 that year， the final imperial examination of Kuimoke was held in Baohe Palace of Beijing， the capital city at that time， Chen Mian entered for this examination with great confidence and finally got the highest score， which enabled him to become one of the youngest No. one Scholars in Chinese history.

To the south of the Luoyuan Avenue， is an alley called Nanxin Street that is one of the four places where Laoshe， a master in literature， lived. The old well in the courtyard once used by Laoshe is still in existence. The top diameter of the well is about 40cm and the wellbay is about 30cm higher than ground level. In fact， the well water is the clear and cool spring water. It is the very well water that was used by Laoshe to breed fish and water flowers， wash his writing brush and inkstone. During that time， drinking the water from this well， Laoshe created many famous works such as the Diary of the Cat City， Divorce， Crescent Moon， and Soul-breaking Gun， and many informal essays such as the Autumn in Jinan， Winter in Jinan.

Besides writing and teaching， Laoshe made a lot of friends here， including many working people from lower social classes such as the rickshaw men， boxing coaches， artists of Chinese folk opera. In his Condolence to Jinan， Laoshe wrote: “Jinan has become my second hometown for whenever I pass by Jinan， there are always people to greet me; wherever I go， there are always people caring about me.”

More than 90 years ago， a boy of six or seven spent his happy and interesting childhood in the alleys of Nanguan in Jinan. At that time， on his way to school， he joined the crowds on Chaoshan Street to see the carrying-out of the death sentence; after school， he climbed a tree to watch the killing of pigs or hid in the construction site on road sides to read story-telling books. He is the one who later became the oriental learned scholar， a master of Chinese ancient civilization， a leading authority in educational circles， famous translator， litterateur， educationalist， Mr. Ji Xianlin.

Many celebrities were bred in the alleys of Jinan such as Qin Qiong (a famous general in the Tang Dynasty)， Zhou Mi (a famous Ci poet in the South Song Dynasty)， Zhang Yanghao (a famous Sanqu poet in the Yuan Dynasty)， Wang Shizhen (a famous poet in the Qing Dynasty)， Ma Guohan (a famous scholar in the Qing Dynasty)， Lu Dahuang (a famous scholar in modern China)…… People like these are numerous. Therefore， walking on the alleys of Jinan， you will be greatly influenced by the strong cultural atmosphere.