王在實：倔強的非凡靈感

For women， gender equality means not just getting equal treatment as men， but being fully independent， in thinking， attitude and career. Women should depend neither on money nor on men. I hope clothes of VEGA ZAISHI WANG could bring more confidence to professional women and girls with dreams， helping them gain heartfelt respect from men. --Vega Wang

“兩性平等不應該是簡單的平等，

而是女性真正的獨立，

有自己獨立的思想和態度，

有自己的事業。

女性的靈魂不依附在金錢上，

也不依附在男人身上。

我希望VEGA ZAISHI WANG的衣服，

能為職業女性或者有夢想的女孩帶去更多的自信，

得到男人心底的尊重。”——王在實

四合院獨有的幽靜氣質與中國傳統文化相輔相成，令越來越多的設計師將自己的工作室選在這種氛圍中，王在實便是其中的一個。作為國內80后新銳派的獨立設計師，王在實的那些會發光的裙子在業界早已家喻戶曉。這個樸實女孩設計出來的作品卻像有魔力般吸引著人們的眼球。

穿著自己最新一季星云系列的真絲長裙，外搭一件白色的小西裝，清爽的短發，個子不高的王在實卻也顯得十分干練。正像她創建的品牌VEGA ZAISHI WANG所宣揚的獨立女性內涵一樣，王在實也正是這樣一個獨立且行動力超強的人。

采訪往往都是以漫無目的的閑聊開始的。王在實說自己是水瓶座，但又不太“水瓶”，在她身上體現更多的是水瓶座非凡的創造力和倔強，而因為月亮星座在金牛，上升星座在巨蟹，令她很務實并且非常靠譜。用她自己的話說：“人在什么年紀就要做什么事兒，現在是精力最旺盛的時候，就應該拼命地工作。”

王在實笑稱自己從小就不適合國內的教育體制，所以父母為了怕她因參加高考而受到打擊，決定送她出國讀書。然而令滿心期許她能從事實業的父親萬萬沒想到的是，她竟然決意去讀藝術和設計。由于家族中從來沒有一個人“混過”這個圈子，而且在那個年代，中國人對于藝術和設計的理解還僅僅停留在窘迫藝術家的層面，因此她的決定曾使父親非常生氣。然而，倔強的王在實仍然義無反顧地選擇了這條路，并且，憑借自己的努力，最終成功地扭轉了父親的想法。

王在實坦言在創建VEGA ZAISHI WANG之后，她一直在有意識地讓父親知道她在做什么。“比如我會把我的一個系列帶回深圳拍攝，其實深圳的海景并不是很好，但因為我希望父母能夠參與我們的團隊，跟我一起工作，只有親身體驗之后他們才知道我有多么努力，才知道我在干什么。”

回憶起那次深圳之行，王在實的表情充滿勝利感。“上次去拍照，我父母又當司機又當保姆，需要幫我照顧很多事兒。拍照那天，我爸拿了一根很大的竹竿，幫我們清場；我媽幫模特兒換衣服，很辛苦，幾乎3分鐘就要換一套。他們跟著我的整個團隊工作兩天下來終于明白，原來這群年輕人真的是可以認真做事兒的。從那之后，我爸就再也沒有異議，非常支持我。”

在談到父母是VEGA ZAISHI WANG品牌的主要投資方時，王在實坦言：“我之前一直擔心他們支持我只是因為我是他們的女兒，但我更加希望他們支持的是我的事業，希望他們能夠認可我。”王在實得意地說，“不過現在我已經做到了，尤其是現在的工作室已自負盈虧，不再需要家里的幫助了。”

事實上，作為80后獨立設計師代表之一，王在實的VEGA ZAISHI WANG品牌創立4年多來，獲得了眾多媒體、服裝設計界與顧客的認可，不少明星也都是她的忠實粉絲。但她對自己的評價僅僅是簡單的“還好”。她說，她是一個對自己很刻薄的人，這也意味著她認為自己還有很大的空間去努力做到更好。

在王在實“很中國”的工作室中，本刊見到幾件2013年春夏款的樣衣靜靜地掛在衣架上。黑白灰的星云圖案，令這一季的成衣線條看似簡潔卻又變化無窮。尤其是與木制家具的配搭，使人聯想到了中國古代神秘的易經。她告訴本刊：“選擇以星云為主要題材的初衷是因為我一直都認為女孩的容貌都只是表面的，稍縱即逝，真正永恒的是內在的修養與知識。像宇宙、星云這些都是很有內在力量的物體，能賦予我正能量，所以我就把它作為靈感做了這樣一個系列。”

“VEGA ZAISHI WANG品牌一直在樹立一個獨立女性的形象。而且我的大部分客人都很了解VEGA ZAISHI WANG在訴說什么。”王在實笑稱，這并非意味著自己是女權主義者，對于女性她有著自己獨特的看法。“兩性平等不應該是簡單的平等，而是女性真正的獨立，有自己獨立的思想和態度，有自己的事業。女性的靈魂不依附在金錢上，也不依附在男人身上。我希望VEGA ZAISHI WANG的衣服，能為職業女性或者有夢想的女孩帶去更多的自信，得到男人心底的尊重。”

當然，王在實的這種獨立女性的思想并不代表就不能走性感路線。“性感不是一定要暴露，我會把裙子開一個很高的衩，露出最美的腳踝，這種性感是基于對女性最基本的尊重。”她認為，每個設計師都有著自己獨特的風格，她的設計就彰顯著時代感，“在未來的若干年之后，當人們回頭看我的設計時，依然能夠馬上回憶起那個年代的‘范兒’。”如今的時尚圈里，越來越多的80后獨立設計師涌現出來。他們這代人大多有著良好的留學背景，經過東西方文化的碰撞，他們的作品往往充滿了新鮮感。王在實認為這是一個好現象。她并不擔心獨立設計師的不斷涌現會對自己造成威脅。“我覺得每個人都有自己的審美和價值觀，你做出來的東西永遠是獨一無二的。所以設計師和設計師之間是根本不存在競爭的，最好的狀態就是多保持溝通，互動能帶來更多的靈感。”但她也不否認，因為大家都是獨立品牌設計師，又都是做女裝市場，因此肯定會出現一些碰撞。

面對競爭壓力，王在實不以為然，她認為每個設計師的風格都是鮮明的，根本不需要分出高低貴賤。“買我衣服的姑娘可能很少會去買另外一種風格，客戶對我的忠實度還挺高。當然，中國的獨立設計師還沒有多到一定程度，所以并不存在惡性競爭，大家的狀態都很好。”

對于設計界的抄襲問題，王在實卻表現得有些激動：“真沒法糾結這個事兒，否則能把自己氣死，所以我根本不去想。”她說她唯一能做的就是不停地去做新東西，出新創意。對于VEGA ZAISHI WANG品牌除了設計之外，還要不停地追求品質，因此王在實會不惜重金自己開發面料。“這一季的成衣花形都是獨一無二的，面料也是獨一無二的，尤其是你看到的這個黑白灰印花的材質非常難仿，連我們自己都差點兒沒做出來。”王在實覺得，做設計不應抱怨大環境，好的設計師應該能在有限的環境中做出更好的作品。

未來留給中國獨立設計師的空間非常大，大多數初生牛犢的80后設計師已經得到了國際媒體的認可，也有越來越多的中國人喜歡穿他們設計的服裝，這給了王在實很大的信心。“我們已經做了快5年了，品牌也在快速地成長。我希望在穩定發展的同時還能夠保持當初的那種心態，繼續做出好設計，這才是首要的任務。同時，我也想讓更多人了解到，我們不僅僅是在做衣服這么簡單，我們是在做一個品牌，品牌有自己的文化，品牌理念就能被更多的人接受并認可。”

或許，有人會認為這樣的規劃不是什么宏圖大志，但對于一個剛剛起步的設計師來說，唯有踏實地工作才會有無盡的未來。

We met at her studio in a Siheyuan， a quadrangle courtyard. Exhibiting the essence of Chinese traditional culture in its tranquility and seclusion， Siheyuan has become the studio of choice for more and more designers. As a fledging Chinese designer born after 1980， Vega Wang established her reputation with her luminous gowns. She may be plain looking， but the works she designed attracts eyeballs like magic.

Short hair， medium height， Vega Wang looked smart in a white suit and a silk longuette from her Nebula series. She is independent and a woman of action， as advocated by her brand---VEGA ZAISHI WANG.

The interview started with casual chats. Wang said she is an Aquarius， but not a typical one， because her Moon sign lies in Taurus and her rising sign in Cancer. Therefore she is creative and stubborn like a Aquarius， pragmatic like a Taurus， and accountable like a Cancer. “We should do the right thing at the right age. I am full of energy now， so I should work as hard as I can.”

Vega Wang jokingly said her parents sent her abroad to pursue further studies for fear she would not survive the Chinese education system undaunted. What her father had not expected is that she would choose to study art and design against his will. No one in the family had worked in art before， and in those days， artists were mostly believed to be poverty stricken. Her father was very upset. But the stubborn girl was determined， and finally won her father over through her efforts and achievements.

After founding VEGA ZAISHI WANG， she has been consciously involving her parents in what she was doing. “For example， I made a point to shoot one of my series in Shenzhen， not because of its beach views， which is not good， but because I want my parents to join my team. Only through their personal experiences can they understand what I am doing and how hard I am working .”

She recounted that trip with a triumphant smile. “During the last shoot， my parents worked as both drivers and assistants. On the day of the shoot， father kept onlookers out with a big bamboo stick， and mother helped the models change cloth in every 3 minutes. It was exhausting. After two whole days working with us， they were finally convinced that these group of young people were doing serious business. Since then， my father never said a word against me.”

Her parents were the main investors of VEGA ZAISHI WANG. “I want them to support me because of what I am doing， not because I am their daughter. I wanted to gain their recognition.” Wang said with a sense of pride， “I gained it. I can make ends meet now with my studio， and I don’t need further support from my family.”

In more than four years of its development， VEGA ZAISHI WANG has gain wide recognition from the media， designers， customers， and many a celebrity. “Not bad” was her modest comment on herself. She said she was harsh to herself， which means， there is still room for her to score higher achievements.

In her Chinese style studio， we saw some samples of her 2013 spring/summer collection. The black， white and grey pattern of the Nebula series is simple but boasts of unlimited possibilities. Presented with wood furniture， it brings me association of the mysterious I-Ching. She told U-jet， “I choose Nebula as the theme of season， because I think the looks of girls are ephemeral and superficial， the only lasting thing is self-cultivation and knowledge. Only things with innate power， things like the universe and Nebula， could give me positive power. ”

“VEGA ZAISHI WANG has been building its brand image as an independent woman. Most of my clients understand what we are advocating.” It does not mean she is a feminist， She explained， only she holds a unique view about women. “For women， gender equality means not just getting equal treatment as men， but being fully independent， in thinking， attitude and career. Women should depend neither on money nor on men. I hope clothes of VEGA ZAISHI WANG could bring more confidence to professional women and girls with dreams， helping them gain heartfelt respect from men.”

The fact the brand is about independence does not mean it cannot be sexy. “A sexy dress is not necessarily revealing， I would give my design a high cut to reveal the most beautiful ankle， with a respect for women.” In her views， each designer has his or her own style， and hers is a reflection of the times. “Years later， when people look back at my designs， they would remember the fashion of these times. ”

More and more Designers of the 80s are emerging in the fashion world， most of whom have an overseas education and find innovative inspirations in the clash between east and west cultures. Vega Wang believes it is a good thing， not a threat to her. “I think each designer is shaped by his or her own aesthetics and values， and every design is unique. There is no competition between designers， exchanges and interactions sometimes could bring more inspirations. ” She does not deny market competition though， as she， like many others， is independently designing and selling woman dresses.

Yet she takes competition lightly. There is no need to compete who is the best， she said， because each designer is unique in his or her works. “Girls buying my designs might as well purchase another style， in this sense， my clients are quite loyal to my brand. Of course， there is not such thing as vicious competition in China as there are not many independent designers， I would say everyone prospers. ”

When we talked about design piracy， she seemed agitated， “If I allow myself to be bothered by that， I would be too angry to work， so I just let it be.” The only thing she could do is to keep making new products and coming up with new designs. Apart from design， she is also pursuing quality relentlessly. She even invested in developing her own fabrics. “The pattern of this season’s collection is unique， so is the fabric. The black， white and grey pattern you are looking at now is extremely difficult for me to make， not to mention copy.” In her view， designers should rather create better designs than blame the wider environment.

For independent Chinese designers， there will be great room for development， Many 80s designers have gained recognition from international media and Chinese customers， which gives Vega Wang great confidence. “We have developed for almost five years， the brand is growing fast. I hope it could continue to grow， but I also want to keep producing great designs， that is my priority. I would also like to help more people understand that we are not just making clothes， but building a brand， a brand with its own culture. And I hope our culture could be accepted and recognized by them.”

This may not sound like an ambitious plan， but for a fledging designer， only hard work promises a limitless future.