慢時尚的慢工細活

Steve Inskeep （Host）： That tragedy caused many people to think more about who makes their clothes and how they’re made. Many people are pushing for what’s called slow fashion. As NPR’s Elizabeth Blair reports， it’s partly modeled after the slow food trend.

Elizabeth Blair （Byline）： People into slow food often buy local. They want to know how the animals were raised and whether 1）pesticides were used on crops. Slow fashion is similar， says Soraya Darabi， co-founder of Zady， a new clothing line that’s trying to practice sustainable manufacturing.

Soraya Darabi： It’s about understanding the process or the origins of how things are made， where our products come from， how they’re constructed and by whom.

Blair： This idea of slow fashion has been around for a long time， but over the last two years， it has grown into a small but dedicated movement， partly in response to the Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh. Georgetown University professor Pietra Rivoli says tragedies like the one in Bangladesh are a result of fast fashion—consumers buying lots of cheap clothes that are made in countries where there’s little or no 2）oversight of things like fire safety and wages.

Pietra Rivoli： We talk about a race to the bottom in 3）apparel production with production chasing the lowest cost. I think the bottom right now is in Bangladesh.

Blair： Rivoli is the author of “The Travels of a T-shirt in the Global Economy”. In the book， she traced the origins of a T-shirt from Walgreens that cost $5.99.

Rivoli： A lot of times there are demand surges from the West. You know， we need more of those pink T-shirts， you know， by next week. And these brands had never really thought about the fact that they might need to be monitoring for actual structural 4）integrity of the buildings. That wasn’t something that was really on their radar screen.

Blair： Supply chain integrity is important to the founders of Zady. They’ve come out with a new T-shirt that’s an example of slow fashion. It was made entirely in the U.S. by companies that co-founder Maxine Bédat says aim to be labor and eco-friendly. The textile industry is one of the world’s biggest polluters.

Maxine Bédat： It’s producing a product that’s really 5）tackling， in one T-shirt， all of the issues that the industry is facing.

Blair： The cotton for Zady’s T-shirt comes from an organic cooperative in Texas. The shirt was cut and sewn by a North Carolina company， where the sewers own part of the company. And it was dyed by TS Designs， which says it uses the least environmentally damaging method of dyeing. The company also makes a T-shirt it calls Dirt to Shirt. Maxine Bédat says slow fashion does take a lot of time.

Bédat： What we’re doing is piecing together what is left of an industry that has totally been 6）decimated.

Blair： Zady’s T-shirt is $36.

Darabi： It is a little bit of an 7）upfront investment. But it’s also， we believe， the way of the future—to own fewer but better things.

Unidentified Woman： Right now， we have enough merchandise to last till about 3 maybe 4 o’clock.

Blair： On a recent weekend， a huge line snaked around a Goodwill in Los Angeles for a massive 8）vintage clothing sale. Jenny Rieu was there looking for clothes from the 1960s.

Jenny Rieu： ’Cause I love the 9）mod style. I love crazy prints—so hopefully. Who knows？

Blair： Rieu says for her， slow fashion is about recycling—hats and dresses and purses that have some history.

Rieu： It was owned by someone living somewhere at some point， and it already had a life. And I’m here able to give it maybe a second or third life. So that makes me feel something. And also， you find more unique stuff.

Blair： Rieu says at the vintage sale， she bought a number of 10）accessories from the 1950s， including pink cotton gloves and a wide-brim straw hat with flowers. She says it feels good to buy clothing that has lasted a long time without spending a fortune or leaving much of a footprint on the environment.

史蒂夫·英斯基普（主持人）：這場悲劇（編者注：2013年4月底，位于孟加拉國拉納廣場大樓發生坍塌事件，造成一千多名制衣工人死亡，該事件給過分追求速度而忽視勞工安全與保障的服裝時尚產業敲響了警鐘。）使很多人更多地考慮服裝的生產者和生產過程。很多人積極提倡“慢時尚”。美國國家公共電臺的伊麗莎白·布萊爾報道稱，慢時尚基本上是在“慢食”潮后形成的。

伊麗莎白·布萊爾（撰稿人）：崇尚慢食主義的人經常買本地食物。他們想知道動物的飼養過程，以及殺蟲劑有沒有用于農作物。慢時尚與此類似，是試圖實踐可持續生產的新的服裝系列，乍蒂公司的創辦人之一索拉雅·達拉必如是說。

索拉雅·達拉必：慢時尚就是關于對生產過程和物品原始材料的了解，我們的產品從哪里來的，他們如何構建，由誰來構建。

布萊爾：慢時尚的概念已存在很久，但在過去兩年，其發展成為小小的專項運動，部分原因是為了回應發生在孟加拉拉納廣場的一場災難。喬治城大學教授皮埃查·瑞沃里說像孟加拉（廠房倒塌）類似的悲劇是快時尚引起的后果——消費者購買大量廉價服裝，這些服裝是在對諸如用火安全和工資等問題缺乏監管的國家生產出來的。

皮埃查·瑞沃里：我們說的是服裝產業中挖空心思追逐最低成本的競賽。我想目前的谷底就在孟加拉了。

布萊爾：瑞沃里是《一件T恤在全球經濟中的漫游》一書的作者。書中，她追蹤了來自沃爾格林（美國的一家藥品、食品零售連鎖企業）的一件價格為5.99美元的T恤的生產源頭。

瑞沃里：很多時候西方國家需求激增。你懂的，我們需要更多那種粉紅T恤，下周就要。這些品牌的公司（只想著大量生產）從來沒有想過他們可能需要檢測這些廠房的結構安全性。那并不在他們的考慮范圍。

布萊爾：供應鏈的完整性對乍蒂的創辦人來說很重要。他們生產的新T恤就是慢時尚的典范。全程都由美國公司生產，創辦人之一瑪克欣·貝達稱，這些公司以改善勞動力環境和不損害生態環境為目標。畢竟紡織業是世界上最大的污染源之一。

瑪克欣·貝達：我們在生產能解決本行業正面臨的所有問題的一件產品，就是這件T恤。

布萊爾：乍蒂的T恤采用來自德克薩斯州一家有機合作社的棉花。衣服由北卡羅來納州的一家公司剪裁和縫制，縫紉工人是該公司其中的老板。TS設計公司負責染色，據稱染色過程采用對環境破壞最少的方式。該公司還生產一種名為“泥衫”的T恤。瑪克欣·貝達說慢時尚的確需要花很多時間。貝達：我們現在做的就是將行業中被完全摧毀后剩下的部分拼湊起來。

布萊爾：乍蒂的T恤賣36美元。

達拉必：這有點像預先投資。但我們相信這同時也是未來的發展方向——擁有更少但更好的東西。

不知名女聲：現在我們有足夠的商品可以持續到大概3點甚至4點。

布萊爾：最近一個周末，一條長長的隊伍環繞著洛杉磯的一家慈善二手服裝店古德維爾，因為有大型的復古服飾大甩賣。珍妮·睿烏正在那里尋找20世紀60年代的服裝。

珍妮·睿烏：因為我喜歡摩登派風格。我喜歡夸張的印花——如此充滿希望。誰知道呢？

布萊爾：正如睿烏所說，慢時尚就是回收利用——有些歷史的帽子、裙子和包包。

睿烏：這在某個時間點被住在某處的某人所擁有，它已經有過一次生命。我在這里能夠給它第二次或者第三次生命。這讓我有所感觸。而且，你能找到更多獨特的東西。

布萊爾：睿烏說在這次復古服飾大甩賣中，她買了很多20世紀50年代的配飾，包括粉紅的棉質手套和一頂帶花的寬沿草帽。她說不必花大錢或者沒有對環境造成多大污染，就買到擁有悠久歷史的服裝，讓她感覺良好。