染發劑的歷史變遷70英語史上的詞典時代

阿諾

Archaeologists have found evidence that as far back as the Neanderthals1）， humans had been using various things to change the color of both hair and skin. Ancient Gauls2） and Saxons dyed their hair various vibrant colors to show rank and to instill3） fear into enemies on the battlefield. Babylonian men sprinkled gold dust into their hair. By the time of the ancient Egyptians， Greeks and Romans， plant and animal matter were being used on a regular basis to color hair. The very first mixtures could only darken the hair， but methods were found to bleach4） hair blond， often by exposing the painted hair to sunlight for hours. Throughout history， various means have been used to produce a full spectrum5） of hair dye colors.

考古學家發現的證據表明，早在尼安德特人時期，人類就已經在使用各種東西來改變頭發和皮膚的顏色了。古代高盧人和撒克遜人將頭發染成各種鮮艷的顏色，用來彰顯自己的地位和在戰場上威懾敵人。巴比倫男子則在頭發上撒金粉。到了古埃及人、古希臘人和古羅馬人時期，動植物材料經常被人們用來染發。最早的混合劑只能讓發色加深，不過人們后來又發現了將頭發淡化為金色的方法，這常常需要讓上了色的頭發在陽光下曝曬幾個小時。縱觀歷史，人類已經使用過形形色色的方法將頭發染成所有可能的顏色。

Hair Dye Through the Middle Ages， the Renaissance and the Victorian Era

中世紀、文藝復興時期及維多利亞時期的染發劑

In the Dark Ages6）， red hair first appeared as the result of a genetic mistake. For many years， people with natural red hair were subjected to suspicions of witchcraft. However， in the 16th century， Queen Elizabeth I's natural vibrant red hair made red hair more acceptable， and soon hair was being reddened with items such as henna7）， which dated back to the ancient Egyptians. During the Baroque period8）， when elaborate powdered wigs9） were popular， the colors ran the gamut of10） pastels11）， from pink and yellow， to even blue. Blond hair continued to be desirable， with caustic soda12） being used to bleach the hair. Victorian women used large hats with an open top to expose their treated hair to the strong sun. At the same time， gray hair was popular， bringing back hair powder to heighten the effect. For a time， silver nitrate13） was used to darken hair until overuse resulted in a purple color. It was this purple result that would eventually lead to the creation of the first synthetic hair dye.

歐洲中世紀時第一次出現了由于基因突變而形成的紅發。在很多年里，天生紅發的人都飽受猜疑，被認為身懷巫術。不過到了16世紀，女王伊麗莎白一世那一頭天生的亮麗紅發使人們對紅發的態度有所改觀，很快人們開始用古埃及人就曾使用過的散沫花染劑等東西把頭發染成紅色。在巴洛克時期，造型精致、撒有發粉的假發很流行，假發的發色從粉色和黃色甚至到藍色，各種淺色無所不包。金發繼續受到歡迎，人們用苛性鈉將頭發淡化為金色。維多利亞時期的女子會戴著帽頂中空的大帽子，讓處理過的頭發接受強光的曝曬。與此同時，灰白色的頭發也很流行，人們重新開始使用發粉來增強這種效果。硝酸銀一度曾被用來加深發色，直到它的過量使用導致了頭發變紫。也正是這個變紫的后果最終促成了第一種合成染發劑的誕生。

1. Neanderthal [ni??nd?tɑ?l] n. （公元前12，000年居住于歐洲的）尼安德特人

2. Gaul [ɡ??l] n. 高盧人，鐵器時代居住在現今西歐的法國、比利時、意大利北部、荷蘭南部、瑞士西部和德國南部萊茵河西岸一帶的凱爾特人。

3. instill [?n?st?l] vt. 逐漸灌輸

4. bleach [bli?t?] v. （使）變成淡色；（使）脫色。n. 漂白劑

5. spectrum [?spektr?m] n. 范圍

6. Dark Ages： 指歐洲中世紀（大約從476年至14世紀歐洲文藝復興開始前的整個中世紀時期）。

Synthetic Hair Dye 合成染發劑

In the 1800s， chemists discovered para-phenylenediamine （PPD） and its use in the creation of synthetic dye. At the same time， it was found that hydrogen peroxide was a gentler and safer chemical for hair bleaching. These two discoveries paved the way for Eugène Schueller， who created the first commercial chemical hair dye， which he christened14） "Aureole". That product would go on to be known as "L'Oréal". The double-process for dying hair blond soon followed， and in 1932 hair dye was further refined by Lawrence Gelb who created hair dye that actually penetrated the shaft15） of the hair. His company would be called "Clairol". Later， in 1950， he would introduce the first one-step hair dye product that actually lightened hair without bleach. This ushered in the modern era of hair dye， including the ability for hair to be dyed at home.

19世紀，化學家發現了對苯二胺（PPD）及其在制作合成染料方面的應用。同一時期，人們還發現過氧化氫是使頭發顏色變淡的更為溫和、安全的一種化學制劑。這兩項發現為歐仁·舒萊爾鋪平了道路，他制造出了第一款商用化學染發劑，并將其命名為“光環”。這一產品就是日后人們所熟知的“歐萊雅”。將頭發染成金色的兩步染發法很快也隨之出現。1932年，勞倫斯·蓋爾博對染發劑做了進一步改進，他制造的染發劑實際上可以滲透進頭發的發干組織。他創建的公司后來被叫做“伊卡璐”。后來到了1950年，他又推出了第一款只需一步操作而無需漂白就可以使發色變淺的染發產品。這迎來了染發劑的現代時期，在這一時期人們在家里也能自己染發了。

7. henna [?hen?] n. 散沫花染劑（一種從散沫花葉提煉出來的棕紅色化妝染劑）

8. Baroque period： 巴洛克時期，西方藝術史上的一個時代，大致為17世紀，盛行巴洛克風格的藝術。

9. wig [w?ɡ] n. 假發

10. run the gamut of： 涉及……的全部范圍

11. pastel [?p?stl] n. 淡色彩

12. caustic soda： 【化】苛性鈉；燒堿

13. silver nitrate： 【化】硝酸銀

14. christen [?kr?sn] vt. 給……取名

15. shaft [?ɑ?ft] n. （人發的）發干

16. condition [k?n?d??n] vt. （涂保護劑）使（頭發或皮膚）保持健康

17. exotic [?ɡ?z?t?k] adj. 奇異的，異乎尋常的

18. semi-： [前綴] （用于形容詞和名詞前構成其他形容詞和名詞）表示“部分”

19. demi-： [前綴] （用于形容詞和名詞前構成其他形容詞和名詞）表示“半”

20. ammonia [??m??ni?] n. 【化】氨

21. cortex [?k??teks] n. 【動物學】皮質；皮層

22. melanin [?mel?n?n] n. 黑色素

23. cuticle [?kju?t?kl] n. 角質層

24. silicon [?s?l?k?n] n. 硅

Types of Hair Dye Available Today 如今市面上的染發劑類型

An infinite array of color is available today， from a vast selection of natural shades， to colors that don't occur in nature at all. Dyeing one's hair causes damage to the hair， but thanks to numerous conditioning16） products， most of this damage can be minimized.

There are four major variations in hair dye today：

Temporary Color. More like a paint or hair mask， these colors are applied on top of the hair and do not penetrate the hair shaft. Mostly available in bright and exotic17） colors， temporary hair colors will wash out of the hair.

Semi18）-permanent/Demi19）-permanent Color. This dye also coats the hair but unlike temporary color， it chemically bonds with the hair. It cannot be used to lighten hair， but adds vibrancy to the color. Semi-permanent color will eventually wash out. Demi-permanent color slightly penetrates the hair shaft， so it lasts longer.

Permanent Hair Color. Because it contains both ammonia20） and peroxide， permanent color allows dye to penetrate the cortex21） and break up the natural melanin22）. It fundamentally changes the hair， and cannot be washed out， although it can be subject to fading due to improper application， damage to the cuticle23） （also called over processing） and even exposure to sunlight.

如今，人們能買到無數種顏色的染發劑，從眾多天然的顏色到自然界根本不存在的顏色，應有盡有。染發會損傷頭發，但是幸虧有眾多的護發產品，這類損傷大多能被降低到最低程度。

如今的染發劑主要可分為以下四種類型。

臨時性染發劑。這類染發劑更像是顏料或者發膜，它們被涂抹在頭發表面，不會滲入發干。臨時性染發劑大多用來染制鮮艷和奇特的發色，染出的發色可以被洗掉。

部分永久性/半永久性染發劑。這類染發劑也是覆蓋在頭發的表面，但是與臨時性染發劑不同的是，它會通過化學方式與頭發結合。它不能讓發色變淺，但是能讓發色變得更加鮮亮。部分永久性染發劑染出的發色最終會被洗掉，而半永久性染發劑由于輕微滲透進發干，因此染發效果較為持久。

永久性染發劑。由于含有氨和過氧化物，永久性染發劑中的染料可以滲入發芯，分解天然的黑色素。它使頭發發生了徹底的改變，而且無法被洗掉，不過，使用不當、角質層損傷（也被稱作過度染發）甚至在陽光下曝曬都會使它褪色。

The Future of Hair Color 發色的未來

The addition of silicon24） and other similar ingredients to conditioners have greatly reduced the amount of damage caused by repeated dyeing of the hair. Constant research continues to produce products that work at the hair's molecular level. Eventually， lasers may be used to color hair， as experiments have shown them to be very effective at removing hair color. However， controlling a laser to the degree needed to make subtle changes in a safe way to human hair on a living person may still be science fiction.

在護發素中添加硅和其他類似的成分，大大降低了反復染發對頭發造成的傷害。從分子水平上改變頭發顏色的產品也在不斷研發之中。也許終將有一天，激光也會被應用于染發領域，因為實驗已表明，激光可以非常有效地去除頭發的顏色。不過，要想操控激光達到可安全地在活人的頭發上做出細微改變的程度，或許仍然只是一種科學幻想。