中國過往40載之我見

文/張科德 譯/鄭映梅 劉玥

約翰·科爾多斯基（中文名：張科德，1953年出生），澳大利亞籍，中國四川樂山師范學院旅游學院教授，之前曾在泰國國立法政大學創新學院任職。在進入學術界之前，張科德是亞太旅游協會（PATA）的副首席執行官，在那里的15年，他一直是旅游行業的前沿分析師。至今，他仍然是亞太旅游協會（PATA）首席執行官特別顧問。

Mr. John Koldowski (1953) from Australia is currently a Professor within the School of Tourism at Leshan Normal University, Sichuan Province, China. Prior to that appointment, John was with the College of Innovation at Thailand's Thammasat University. Before entering academia, Mr. Koldowski was Deputy CEO of PATA where over afifteen-year span he came to be regarded as one of the travel and tourism sector's leading analysts. He still maintains his relationship with PATA through his appointment as a special advisor to the CEO.

To say that China has experienced unprecedented growth and development over the last 40 years, is obviously true but to my mind at least,it is also somewhat of an understatement. Unprecedented, yes, but on a scale and with a speed that defies imagination. The modern infrastructure alone lends testament to the rapid expansion of the physical dimensions of society.

In addition, the socio-economic strength of Mainland society can be seen to have also developed very rapidly, especially when you consider that back in 1978 the GDP per capita was, according to the World Bank,just over US$156. By 2016 however-the latest year for which data is available - that metric had risen to just over US$8,123 per capita, an increase of more than 50-fold over that period.

In practical terms, this also means that more than 12.4 million people were lifted out of poverty in 2016 and the government aim is to aims to continue on that path and to totally eliminate poverty across the country by 2020. The human impact of that is enormous.

毫無疑問，中國在過去的40年里經歷了前所未有的成長和發展，但在我看來，這種說法仍對中國有些低估。就中國發展的規模與速度而言，用“前所未有”形容固然無誤，但遠不如“超乎想象”更為貼切。僅憑現代化基礎設施建設，便足以證明其物質社會實力的快速攀升。

中國社會經濟實力強勁的發展勢頭還可以從以下數據得到印證：根據世界銀行的數據，1978年中國人均GDP剛達到156美元，而到了2016年就已經達到了8123美元，較之前增加了50多倍。實際上，這也意味著2016年全國農村貧困人口減少了1240萬人。政府將持續著力，確保到2017年再脫貧1000萬人以上，力爭到2020年全面消除貧困，這對人們的生活將產生巨大的影響。

不管是對國家的發展，還是對個人的進步，科技作為助推器，對中國的發展無疑都起著舉足輕重的作用。從國家層面來看，高速鐵路網不斷擴張，居民住宿設施以及機場不斷增建；從個人層面來看，生活中的一切都能在網上進行。根據《中國日報》報道的一份由中國電子商務研究中心發布的報告顯示，2016年中國的網上零售交易額高達5.3萬億元（合7700億美元），同比增長39.1%，創下了歷史新高。中國由此成為全球最大的網絡零售市場。

旅游業，一個我長期關注的領域，也向我們展示了中國社會經濟的健康發展，以及中國大陸游客對世界和周邊文化日益濃厚的興趣。自2012年以來，按照國際旅游消費指數，中國大陸居民的國際旅游開支高居世界出境旅客支出首位。

2016年，中國旅客對世界旅游業的貢獻率逾2600億美元，是第二大活躍出境市場（美國）的兩倍多，而20世紀末（2000年）卻僅131億美元。另外，國內旅游業從20世紀80年代中期的2億人次猛增到2017年的48.8億人次。這些統計數據讓我們看到當今中國人口的流動性之高和經濟實力之強。

伴隨著硬件設施的發展，人們的心理也有了相應積極的發展，這在今天的年輕人中顯得尤為明顯。他們強大自信，擁有超乎尋常的好奇天性；他們熱情似火，可以融化寒冬里的堅冰厚雪。尊重是條雙行道，只要你愿意花時間去贏得他們的信任和尊重，同時給予他們同樣的信任與尊重，你將收獲一份如同他們一樣強大且永恒的友誼。

游歷中國

從觀看絲綢之路論壇上投射在原始又靜謐的長城上的國家藝術激光燈表演，到欣賞100名廚師完美地將面團舞成100份面條，多次訪問中國的經歷給我留下了很多美好回憶。我初次漫步戈壁沙漠也是在中國，騎著駱駝，搖曳在沙漠海洋中，穿過甘肅的沙丘去觀看令人震撼的日出。如今我定居中國多年，卻從未感到孤單。

我曾在北方一些小島上評估其旅游發展潛力，甚至用當地的蝎子來烹飪。很多當地人沒見過西方人，在他們看來，我像是一個四肢長著白色毛發的外星人。許多看到我和我同事的當地人會走到我們身邊，撫摸、拉扯我們胳膊上的汗毛，天真無邪地咯咯笑。

我們引來了一大群人，其中主要是一些學齡兒童。他們一路跟隨我們，甚至跟進到街上的各種商店里去。當我們走到路邊攤買來小吃嘗一嘗的時候，他們面露訝色。就這樣，我們還與許多人留了合影。

蝎子“事件”特別有趣。當得知一群外國人正在當地一家餐館里品嘗地道佳肴的時候，幾乎所有的用餐者以及餐廳的員工和廚師都擠進了我們的包間看熱鬧、拍照。我只能說“大家都過得很愉快”。雖然像這樣的事本身就會惹人興致，但是我們沿途遇到的并與之交談的人使我的這段回憶更加刻骨銘心。

無論考究與否，人們都有一個共同的特點。我們遇到的每一個人見到我們都很欣喜，交談時既體貼又禮貌。從年長者到年幼者，很多人都會大方地靠近我們，用他們僅知道的幾個單詞與我們交流，比如“你好”和“我很好，謝謝你”。大家對我們都很感興趣，也很好奇我們在他們的國家做些什么。近些年來，英語和其他一些語言一樣，已經被更廣泛應用和理解。

當時我們沒有人會說中文，他們中（除了翻譯）也沒有人能用英語交談，點餐成了笑聲不斷、無比享受的過程。無數手指一邊指著菜單上的圖片一邊指著鄰桌點的菜，直到最后大功告成。這絕對堪稱國際化的猜字謎游戲啊！

趣聞以外亦有感傷。2008年的“5·12”汶川大地震給四川以及當地人帶來了毀滅性的破壞與抹不平的傷痛。我無心痛斥那次地震的殘酷無情，只想謳歌那些地震受害者堅韌不拔、迅速復蘇的精神。去參觀汶川遺址，看到那些為紀念在地震中死去的人而建立的紀念博物館，定使人心如刀絞。好在地震中被摧毀的那些城鎮和道路很快就重現活力，當地的居民也恢復了生計。如今，他們和地球上任何其他地方的人們一樣，熱情洋溢，充滿希望。

在過去的20年里，每一年我都會訪問中國數次，老實說，我雖然熟悉很多地域、少數民族和當地居民，但我仍不能說我了解這個國家以及這個國家的人民，我每一天都在繼續探索這個國度。對于那些已經和即將參觀北京、上海或去四川看大熊貓，認為這樣就相當于游覽了整個中國的外國旅客來說，我為他們的管中窺豹而感到痛心。不管在大城市，還是在偏遠農村，與當地人交流，品嘗他們的食物，領略他們的文化，才能帶來淳樸卻意義非凡的樂趣。

每樣東西都會給那些分享經歷或沉浸其中的人帶來極大的樂趣。比如食物，它不僅僅是菜品，在有新熟識朋友和同事的宴席上，敢于冒險的精神和歡宴才是更重要的體驗。我曾經經歷過多次廚師們熱切地向我解釋一些菜品的起源與演變，并且與我一同沉浸在享受中國美食的歡樂氣氛中。

從杭州西湖的大閘蟹、大連的海參到著名的四川火鍋，每道菜都挑戰著味蕾，極具特色。同桌的同伴、廚師介紹的有關菜品起源和創新的細節，這些都讓用餐變得更加愉快。此外，中國人對自己的文化以及隨其演變的食物的津津樂道，使我們的用餐變得豐富多彩。

發現樂山

我雖然看到了很多，也經歷了很多，但直到今天我仍沒有停止了解中國的腳步。目前我就職于四川省樂山師范學院（LSNU），樂山是四川省一座很漂亮的城市。在這里，我很幸運能夠從師院的學生和教職員工及當地人那里對樂山及其文化有更深入的了解。

雖然之前我曾去過成都多次，但我對距離成都僅2個小時車程的樂山及周邊全然不知。被聯合國教科文組織列為世界遺產的大佛，大佛腳下的三江匯流，峨眉山的奇峰等，這些對我來說都很陌生。

這些景點風景優美如畫，歷史底蘊厚重。但在我看來，這里的人們吸引著外地人到這里安居樂業，正是他們使樂山成為一座具有吸引力的城市。這里的少數民族、山民、漁民和市民都有自己的精彩故事。他們為自己的傳承感到自豪，并且渴望也愿意向任何給予他們時間和機會的人們講述。他們溢于言表的開放心態值得你我去感受。

一看見樂山，我就立刻決意要深入地去了解這座城市的歷史、文化及其周邊一切：去看19世紀最深的鹽井，去參觀傳統的手工醬油釀造作坊，去感受散發著自然活力的當地人的勞作與態度。

清新的空氣，新鮮的食物，與當地居民的交流，雖然交流通常借助電子翻譯，但是這些使我在這里度過的每一天都充斥著鮮活與新奇。在當地工作、購物、用餐、交談，我和妻子總能捕捉到新鮮感。

顯而易見，當地人的交流方式和文化都給我留下了深深的烙印，這也是我親眼見證的過去40年內發生的最顯著變化。這種變化仍然在持續。

目前，就拿樂山師范學院的學生來說，他們勤奮學習并非僅僅是為了獲得學士學位，而是真正想掌握并且運用所學到的知識。出于純粹的求知欲，而并非魯莽的挑釁，這些學生催我多教多授，而我也愿意傳授給他們一些有所裨益的知識。

樂山師范學院的課程設置也是別具一格，學校將培養學生軟硬技能的課程巧妙融合在一起，就比如他們把舞蹈、音樂和話劇看得與經濟管理專業同等重要。我不得不說這樣的方式令人耳目一新，而且必定會培養出一支能力均衡、適應市場需求的人才隊伍。

另外，尤其有意思的是這里的師生都樂于嘗試一切新的事物。失敗并不會擊垮他們，反而一次次的唱歌、跳舞、演出、學習，讓他們愈挫愈勇。

教職工也一樣。我和我的妻子剛到這里時，遇到了熱情、慷慨又善良的教職工，這讓我們有點兒受寵若驚。我們對此心懷感激，希望有一天能夠回報他們的這份溫暖。這些年來，我還注意到一個現象：這里的教師才華橫溢，并不像很多其他學校的教職工那樣僅僅執著于某些領域。他們十分擅長溝通和討論，在不同層次上和不同課題上都有相當不錯的造詣，對國際事務的了解和興趣也在不斷更新。

說到能力的廣泛性，就在最近，學校的每一個二級學院都為年終晚會準備自己的表演。節目形式有唱歌、舞蹈、音樂、詩歌，還有講述中國文化中茶的重要性的獨白。教職員工、管理者與學生們的表演讓我驚嘆不已。以前，我一直堅信科學和藝術是分開的，我認為他們“永遠不會相遇”。但是這些表演徹底改變了我的看法！

反觀我以前的觀點，使這一切成為可能的原因在于中國精神的誕生與傳承，人民本身就是一種不可忽視的力量。兢兢業業、自信開放的新思想、新思維和新概念，是今天中國人的典型特點，更是數千年來薪火相傳的命脈。

從造紙術到白手起家的概念，到獨輪車，甚至到如今被譽為“絲綢之路”的海上和陸上貿易路線，古代中國人向世界輸出了太多太多。今天的中國人民依然擁有相同的理念和創新的實踐精神，我們需要做的就是睜開眼睛，體會每一個人得到了什么；同時，還要像中國人一樣，活在當下，享受過往。

如世界上許多其他文化一樣，今天的中國人愿意提供賓至如歸的服務。需要強調的是，請勿把服務和仆從混為一談，仆從是不會被任何文化所接納、所包容的。人人平等，這是思維方式上最重要的變化，也是過去40年來的一個重大變化。

As an enabler, technology has certainly stimulated and allowed much of this development, both at the national and the individual level.Nationally of course we can see the development of the high-speed rail network, the plethora of accommodation establishments that are continually being erected, the airport developments and much more besides. At the individual level, the adoption rate of technology is such that virtually everything is-or can be-conducted online.

According to a report released by China's e-commerce research center and reported on by the China Daily newspaper, China's online retail market volume hit a record high in 2016, with a year-on- year growth of 39.1 percent to 5.3 trillion yuan ($770 billion). This makes China the world's largest online retail market.

Traveling in China

Tourism-the area in which I have been most active for longer than I care to mention-also gives us a clue as to the socio-economic health of the people of Mainland China as well as to their increasing interest in the world and the cultures around them. Since 2012, the residents of Mainland China have topped the world's list of outbound travellers as measured by international tourism expenditure.

As of 2016, the value of these Mainland travellers to all parts of the world was worth in excess of US$260 billion, more than double that of the second most active outbound market, the USA. In addition, the growth in domestic travel has exploded from just 200 million trips in the early to mid-1980s to an expected 4.88 billion in 2017. Those statistics give some idea of the mobility andfinancial wherewithal of these Mainland Chinese today.

In concert with developments in the physical hardware, there has been a commensurate and positive growth in the psyche of the people,something that is especially noticeable in the young adults of today.They are stronger, more self-assured and incredibly inquisitive by nature. They are also as warm-hearted as the winters in parts of the country, are cold. If you take the time to earn their trust and respect and deliver the same in return, you will be rewarded with friendships that are as strong and lasting as the people themselves. Respect is a two-way street.

I have so many fond memories during my frequent visits and now my residency in China that it is hard to isolate just one or two. From attending a Silk Road forum and witnessing a state-of-the-art laser light show projected onto an original and still-standing section of the Great Wall, to witnessing 100 chefs in perfect choreographed harmony as they individually produced 100 sets of noodles from simple balls of dough, at that same event.

China is also where I had myfirst taste of the Gobi Desert and the oceanic swaying motion of a camel as I rode through the sand dunes of Gansu province to watch a spectacular sunrise.

Or being regarded as a human curiosity while evaluating the tourism potential of a group of northern islands, and even making a meal of local scorpions because of their healthenhancing properties. In thefirst instance, many locals had not seen westerners before and I must have looked quite alien with white hairy, arms and legs. Certainly many of the local residents that saw me and my collegaues, came over to touch and pull the hair on our arms amid much laughter and gaiety.

We attracted a crowd, especially-but not only-of school-age children who followed us around everywhere even into the various shops along the main street, and gaped as we ate street food as we came across it. A multitude of photographs were taken with many different persons.

The scorpion event was particularly fun, as when it was known throughout the rather large local restaurant that a foreigner was about to consume these delicacies, it seemed all the diners in the place - as well as the serving staff and the chefs - crowded into our private dining room to watch and take pictures. All I can say is that ‘a good time was had by all'. Events such as this have been of particular interest and most enjoyable in their own right, but the memories so created have also been significantly enhanced because of the people that we met and interacted with along the way.

From highly sophisticated individuals to rural farmers, they all had one particular feature in common. Everyone that we met was pleased to see us and they gave every consideration and politeness as they interacted with us. From the elders to the young children, many would unashamedly approach and utter the only English words they probably knew at the time: ‘Hello' and ‘I amfine, thank you'. All were curious and interested in us and what we were doing in their part of China. That was some time ago and now of course, English is much more widely spoken and understood, as are a number of other languages.

The riotous laughter and fun in trying to order a meal at that time,when none of us could speak Chinese and none of them, (translators excepted) could converse in English, has been especially enjoyable.Lots offinger pointing at pictures and at the meals ordered by other diners until eventually we were successful-more or less-in placing an order with the local restaurant. An exercise in international charades indeed!

On a very much more sombre note, I must mention the devastation and grief caused by the Great Sichuan Earthquake on May 12, 2008. Not to belabour that point, but to highlight the tenacity and resilience of the local rural populations directly affected. To visit that site and see the memorial museum erected in memory of those who perished, will tear your heart apart. But with great speed and efficiency, the affected towns and roads were re-built and the rural residents resumed their lives. Today they are as cheerful and welcoming as any in the land.

So, after almost two decades visiting China - multiple times each year-I can truly say that while I am familiar with many landmarks,minority groups and local residents, I still cannot say that I know the country and its people-I continue to learn every single day. To those visitors and potential visitors who think that they can visit Beijing,Shanghai and see the Pandas in Sichuan province means that they have ‘done' China, I can only feel saddened because of what they miss.With the simple but most rewarding pleasures of interacting with the local population through their food and culture both within the large urban centres and the rural expanses.

Each can bring great enjoyment to those delivering the experience as well as to those consuming them. With respect to the food, it is not just the dishes themselves-although that helps-but also to the spirit of adventure and conviviality when enjoyed in the company of newfound friends and colleagues. On many occasions, I have experienced the chefs themselves joining in the merriment as they eagerly explain the origins of this dish or the evolution of that one.

From the delicate hairy crabs of Hangzhou's West lake, to the sea cucumbers of Dalian and the renowned Sichuan hotpot, there is a taste sensation for every palate. Such meals are made all the more enjoyable by the company around the table and the chef's details as to the origin and culture behind one or more of his/her creations. Once more, the willingness of the Chinese people to talk-with passion-about their culture and the food that evolved from it, heightens the very act of consumption.

Charming Leshan

I have seen much and experienced more, but my education with the people of China still continues to this day. Currently I am based within Leshan Normal University (LSNU) in the lovely city of Leshan in Sichuan province, where I am fortunate to be able to develop a much deeper understanding of these people and their culture, from the students and the faculty of the university as well as the local population.

Previously I had visited Chengdu city in Sichuan province many times, but I was completely oblivious to what existed just two hours away by car, in Leshan and its surrounds. From the UNESCO-listed world heritage site of the Giant Buddha to the three rivers that combine at the foot of that statue, to the peaks of Mount Emei and beyond.

The sites themselves are stunningly beautiful and steeped in history,but it is the people-to me-that make the city such an attractive place to live and work. The minority groups, the people of the mountains,the fishermen and theflat-landers-they all have stories to tell and are both proud of their heritage and eager and willing to talk about it to anyone who will give them the time and opportunity to do so. The openness with which they do this is quite something to experience.

Once I saw Leshan I immediately knew I wanted to dive deeper into the history and culture of the city and its surrounds. To see the site of the deepest salt-water well of the 1800s to the soy sauce that is still made by hand and in the traditional way and everything in between.There is an energy here that is palpable and which emerges in the actions and attitudes of all the residents here.

Clean air, fresh food and always a chat or discussion with some of the locals, the latter usually with the aid of an electronic translator, make each day an adventure and a learning experience. My wife and I work locally, buy our produce locally, eat locally and interact with a wide range of local personalities each and every day. And there is always something to discover.

Clearly, it remains the people and the way they are willing to communicate and engage with me through their culture that has made the deepest impression on me and which I believe is the strongest and most significant change over the last 40 years that I have personally witnessed. And that trend is continuing.

Currently, and from amongst the members of the student body at LSNU for example, Ifind that the young adults with whom I am engaged, are intensely driven to learn, not in a rote fashion just so they can get their degrees, but to really know and understand. They push me and test me and always want more. Not in any aggressive mannerbut simply to understand better. That, in and of itself is good for me I might also add.

It is also fascinating to see how the degree courses offered at LSNU tend to be a blend of hard and soft skills, with dance, music, song and the atre just as important as for example, financial management. Such an approach is, I must say, refreshing and in my view, will lead to a very balanced cohort of graduates entering the workforce at some future date.

What Ifind particularly interesting though is that students-and faculty-are willing and eager to try everything. Failure is not something that seems to feature largely in their approach to things. They sing,they dance, they put on performances, they study and they have a great time doing it. Then they do it again only better.

Similarly, the faculty. When my wife and Ifirst arrived, we were met with such warmth, generosity and kindness that we were mildly taken aback, however we were very appreciative of it and I hope reciprocated in kind. Faculty here are also very broadly talented, not so much singularly focused as in other places so communication and discussion can and does occur on many different levels and across many different subjects - something else that I have noticed over the years. Knowledge of, and interest in world affairs is growing all the time.

In terms of the broad range of abilities, just recently, each school within the university prepared to deliver individual school performances at a gala event. We had singing, we had dancing, we had music and we were regaled with poetry and monologues on the importance and significance of tea in Chinese culture. To see academics, administrators and students deliver such performances was to me simply stunning.In my day, the sciences and the arts were kept separate with ‘never the‘twain to meet'. This was indeed refreshing!

But to return to my earlier point, what makes this possible is the emergence and development of a psyche in China that shows that the people themselves are a force to be reckoned with. Hard working, confident and continually open to new ideas, thoughts and concepts is typical of the mainlander today, and follows on from the ancestry of millennia.

Remember what the ancient Chinese brought to the world in times past. From paper to the concept of nothing (or zero) in accounting to even the humble wheelbarrow, and who opened up maritime and land-based trading routes now popularised as the Silk Roads. That same conceptual and practical spirit of innovation I am pleased to say,can be seen in the population of China today. All you have to do is open your eyes to it and understand that we each have something to offer. At the same time, be like the Chinese themselves and have fun -enjoy the experiences. I sure do and I am all the better for it.

The Chinese today, like many other cultures around the world, are willing to serve with hospitality and care, but do not confuse serving with servitude-the latter will not even entertain a thought. All are equal and that is a most significant change in mind-set and a major change during the last four decades.