不止于一餐飯：外賣扮演的角色

是一餐飯，卻又不僅僅是一餐飯。作為日常生活的一部分，外賣對不同年齡段、不同社會身份的人而言，到底意味著什么？外賣在我們的生活中究竟扮演著怎樣的角色？

番茄炒蛋

女，20歲，廣州，大學(xué)生

不敢想象沒有外賣的日子

對我來說，外賣是生活中不可缺少的一部分。綜合算下來，吃外賣的次數(shù)不比去食堂少。就拿我們宿舍來說，六個人里，每天都有四五個人的飲食以外賣為主。這主要是因?yàn)橄抡n去食堂排隊(duì)太耽誤時(shí)間了，點(diǎn)外賣則不同，在快下課時(shí)下單，等步行到宿舍門口時(shí)，外賣差不多也送到了，方便又高效，讓人怎能不喜歡呢？遇到天氣不好或者當(dāng)天沒課只想“犯懶”不出門的情況，點(diǎn)外賣就更是不二之選了。除此之外，由于要和食堂競爭，大學(xué)周邊的外賣價(jià)格通常不會太高，菜式和口味也比較多樣，這讓我們的幸福指數(shù)持續(xù)上升。我們也會時(shí)不時(shí)地點(diǎn)一些清淡的品類來調(diào)劑胃口，兼顧“養(yǎng)生”需求。真不敢想象沒有外賣的日子該怎么過。

流星

女，25歲，北京，新媒體運(yùn)營

外賣也能傳遞愛與關(guān)懷

外賣可不是年輕人專屬。我的奶奶已經(jīng)80多歲了，她最先學(xué)會的網(wǎng)購技能就是點(diǎn)外賣。當(dāng)然，這也得益于外賣App的不斷改進(jìn)——針對老年人的日常需求，提供適老化幫助，使用起來也友好。有需求的時(shí)候，奶奶只要打開外賣軟件，對手機(jī)說出想要吃的東西、“下單”等指令，就能完成交易。有時(shí)候，我們這些后輩也會幫奶奶下單，買一些新鮮又美味的餐食給她送過去，省去了奶奶自己買菜、做飯的辛勞。更棒的是，實(shí)在不便去看望爺爺奶奶時(shí)，我們還可以借點(diǎn)外賣的機(jī)會，讓配送員代為問候，順便幫忙看看他們的狀態(tài)。當(dāng)然，這只是無奈之舉，最好的愛與關(guān)懷，永遠(yuǎn)是回家看望。

Charlotte

30-year-old， live in Auckland writer

Takeaways liberate females from the repetitive housework cooking

Long before the pandemic， takeaways， fast foodespecially， have drawn reactions ranging from delightto prejudice. But as we emerge from the strictestlockdown level， in a world of pervasive uncertainty，they assume an even greater symbolic weight.

Curries， Big Macs， bubble tea or whatever else isin your takeaway order represent something far morecomplex than these perceived assumptions of lazinessor supposed unhealthy eating habits.

In a world of pervasive uncertainty， they'resymbols of the potential of returning to normality. Itis a small ritual comfort to be hold onto when almostevery single waking moment feels overwhelming.And for many， not least parents， takeaways mean notjust a reacquaintance with normality， but a respitefrom weeks-long ennui. After more than a month ofbalancing their full-time jobs with full-time childcare，takeaways offer some respite from one of the mostrepetitive domestic tasks： cooking. That is unpaid， andtypically female， labor.

疫情之前，大家對外賣褒貶不一。但是在如今這個充滿不確定性的世界里，外賣有著非常重要的象征意義。它并非意味著“懶惰”或“不健康”，相反，外賣代表著某種正常的生活秩序。對許多人尤其是父母來說，點(diǎn)外賣還意味著可以得到喘息的機(jī)會。對既要帶娃又要工作的女性來說，外賣將她們從做飯這項(xiàng)免費(fèi)、重復(fù)的家務(wù)勞動中解放了出來。

Bun Leng

41-year-old， live in New Zealand takeaway owner

The takeaway restaurant leads my family to a better life

My family came from Cambodia to New Zealandin 1980. In 2011， I took over our family-run takeawayshop passed from my dad. At the time I was an aspiringteacher， but opted to take on my dad's business mostlyfor sentimental reasons. I thought it would be reallycool to keep it in the family， and I guess I just kindof have fallen into it since then. I didn't spend a centthe first few years and was paying myself $600 [whileworking] 70 hours per week because that's all the shopcould afford.

But over time I was able to put my own stamp onthe restaurant and as a result I have tripled the store'srevenue， gifted my parents a world trip and bought aninvestment property. The social media is a significantreason for the success， and it's also proven a majorfactor in building the restaurant's profile during theprevious lockdowns. Every day I'm getting peoplemessaging saying how much they love my posts andhow they will be coming to our shop when lockdownlifts.

1980年，我們一家從柬埔寨來到新西蘭。2011年，我接手了父親的事業(yè)——經(jīng)營一家外賣店。最初幾年，我省吃儉用，每周工作70小時(shí)，只給自己開600美元的薪水，這是這家店能負(fù)擔(dān)得起的全部費(fèi)用了。后來，在社交媒體的助力下，店鋪的收入提升到了原來的三倍，我送父母去環(huán)球旅行，還買了一處投資物業(yè)。外賣店讓我和我的家人都過上了更好的生活。