巴黎完美一日

文/戴維·萊博維茨 戴安娜·劉 譯介/張菊

David moved to Paris in 2004, and after years of cooking, baking, and tasting both the sweet and unsavory parts of life in France (the sweet being the pastries, the unsavory the experiences with bank tellers), he’s cultivated la vie du quartier, an intimate knowledge of one’s arrondissement1arrondissement〈法〉區。相當于英語中的district。that few attain.His Paris is multicultural, tightknit, and deliciously creative—a more down-to-earth side of the city that often goes unnoticed.

2004 年，戴維移居法國巴黎。多年在法國烹調烘焙，體驗法國生活的甘苦（甘甜的是糕點，苦澀的是與銀行出納員打交道的經歷）之后，他已熟諳這里的市井生活，很少有人像他那樣深入了解自己生活的區域。他的巴黎是多元文化的，緊湊且富有創意——這是這座城市更接地氣的一面，也是常常被忽視的一面。

2戴維的新書《喝在法國》對法國極具特色的酒水進行了深度解讀，讀來輕松愉悅。該書發行前夕，戴維給“時髦巴黎”網站帶來了他的巴黎完美一日行，這一天有貝爾維爾的漫步、自然發酵的糕點、豬肉餃子，還有這個城市最好的咖啡和烈酒。

2On the eve of the launch ofDrinking French, his new book that takes a delectable dive into the iconic drinks of France, David brought HiP Paris2一個旨在幫助游客及巴黎本地人深度開發了解巴黎的網站。on a tour of his perfect day in Paris, which includes a walk around Belleville, naturally fermented pastries, pork dumplings, and the best coffee and spirits the city has to offer.

Café au lait and a walk through Belleville

3In the morning, I usually get up around 7 am, stay in my pajamas, and have coffee at home.In America, people like to drink a pot of coffee, but to me coffee is like a punctuation mark—one shot and I’m good.

奶咖和貝爾維爾漫步

3早晨我一般7 點左右起床，穿著睡衣在家先喝點兒咖啡。在美國，人們早起后喜歡喝一壺咖啡，但對我來說，咖啡就像一個標點符號——一杯就好。

4Afterward, I’d walk over to Belleville; it’s around 20 minutes on foot from where I live in the 11th arrondissement3第11 區，位于塞納河右岸。巴黎共20 個區，以塞納河中段為中心螺旋形順時針外展。郵政編碼以75開頭，尾數是每個區的數字。比如，第11 區的郵政編碼是75011。.It’s a multicultural neighborhood that feels authentic.If you want to see the real Paris, this is where you go.One thing people, especially foreigners, often forget about Paris is that it’s a melting pot.Belleville is also an inexpensive neighborhood, which means that young people can afford to open up businesses there.

4隨后，我會走到貝爾維爾，從我住的11 區步行過去約20分鐘。這是一個原汁原味的多元文化社區；如果想看看真正的巴黎，就該來這里。人們，尤其是外國人，經常忘記一點：巴黎是個大熔爐。貝爾維爾還是一個生活成本不高的社區，這意味著很適合年輕人在此創業。

5首先，我會在貝爾維爾拉方丹咖啡館停留片刻，喝一杯榛子咖啡。這是一家法式咖啡店，目標客戶是年輕一代，環境很好，咖啡很棒，甜點是自制的，三明治尤其不錯。其經典的火腿黃油三明治美名遠揚，火腿用的是巴黎王子火腿——這是僅存的采用燉煮工藝制作的火腿，真正的巴黎出品。

5First, I’d stop at La Fontaine de Belleville and have acafé noisette4榛子咖啡，準確說是榛果風味的咖啡，有濃濃的榛果味和奶香味。正規榛子咖啡的榛果味來自于榛果提取物制作的榛果糖漿，并非在咖啡中直接加入實物榛果。.It’s a French coffee shop for the new generation with a great vibe5vibe 氣氛，環境。, quality coffee,homemade desserts, and really good sandwiches.They’re famous for their classicjambon-beurresandwich6火腿黃油三明治，一種經典的法式三明治。一般做法是，將外脆里嫩的長棍面包縱向切半后在內側抹上黃油，再夾入熟火腿（也稱巴黎火腿），有時還會放酸黃瓜片。, made with Prince de Paris ham—it’s the last boiled ham actually made in Paris.

Produce, pork dumplings, and pastries

6Next, I’d go shopping for some ingredients.Terroirs d’Avenir sells beautiful French produce as well as a variety of cheeses and butters.There are also a lot of stores over on Boulevard de Belleville.I like to stop by Djudjura Blida, a North African butcher, for meat—a lamb shoulder7羊肩肉，羊腿上方、脊椎兩側的肉，一般指羊的第一根到第四根肋骨上的肉。因肌肉運動多，所以這個部位的脂肪分布更均勻，肉質滑嫩，鮮美多汁，適合做燉羊肉、烤羊肉、紅燜羊肉等。to braise or a roast chicken for dinner.It’s not particularly scenic, but it’s a real slice of this part of Paris.There are also a lot of Middle Easternépiceries(small grocery stores) in Belleville, like Produits du Monde.As a baker, I need to buy ingredients in big quantities, and this spot is perfect for that.I also just enjoy wandering around the neighborhood—it’s how I discover things.

農產品、豬肉餃子和糕點

6接下來，我會去購買一些食材。“未來之地”出售的法國農產品很不錯，還有各種奶酪和黃油。貝爾維爾大道上也有很多店。我喜歡順路逛一下“朱爾朱拉-卜利達”，這是一家北非肉店，晚餐想燉羊肩肉或想烤雞都可以在這里買肉。這地方談不上多好看，但真是地道巴黎的一部分。貝爾維爾還有很多中東小雜貨店，像“世界產品”。我是個烘焙師，需要大批量購買食材，這個地方正適合我。我還就喜歡在那一帶閑逛，這是我發現新事物的方式。

7午餐，我會去“東北餃子館”，豬肉餃子非這家店莫屬！我也喜歡“三倍辣椒”家的麻辣餃子，不過它在另一個區。作為一個前加利福尼亞人，我非常喜歡亞洲食物并且經常吃……這對我來說是很大的滿足。

7For lunch, I’d head to Raviolis Chinois Nord-Est—their pork dumplings are the way to go! I also love the spicy dumplings over at Trois Fois Plus de Piment8位于三區的一家川菜館，在巴黎的中餐館中很有名。, although that’s in a different arrondissement.As a former Californian,I adore Asian food and eat it a lot… it’s very fulfilling for me.

8Afterwards, I’d walk over to Le Petit Grain and pick up a pastry and some bread.The pastries there are what I call“bakers’ pastries” rather than fancy French pastries.Everything is naturally fermented and they don’t use yeast in their croissants.They don’t use plastic either.It’s a zero-waste bakery!

8隨后，我會到“小谷物”買些點心和面包。那兒的糕點就是我所說的“烘焙師糕點”，不是花里胡哨的法式點心。每樣東西都是自然發酵的，牛角面包也不用酵母發酵。他們也不用塑料制品。這家面包店零浪費！

An apéro9apéro = apéritif〈法〉開胃酒。該詞源自拉丁詞aperire（打開），意為在正餐前開啟好胃口（ouvrir l’appétit）。法國人喝開胃酒通常在下班后、晚餐前。大多數法國家庭在晚上8 點后才吃晚餐，此前人們會喝點兒開胃酒、吃點兒開胃小菜墊墊肚子。開胃酒不一定非得是酒，也可以是餐前飲用的無酒精軟飲料，并可配以水果、奶酪盤、熟食盤、小零食等。法國人常喝的開胃酒有香檳、氣泡酒、基爾酒、蕁麻酒、茴香酒、利爾酒、皮諾酒、調配雞尾酒等。白葡萄酒和紅酒一般是正餐酒（vin à table），正餐時飲用。 hour sans prétention

9Then I’d stop at La Cave de Belleville for a bottle of wine.It’s a natural wine bar without the dogma.Natural wine has become a big deal in Paris,but there can be a certain snobbism associated with it, even though natural wine is, in fact, a very earthy ingredient!I’m not a wine expert, so I’d just ask them for a recommendation.It’s also a great place for dinner—you can order a charcuterie platter and a bottle of wine from the shelves.

低調的開胃酒時光

9之后，我會在“貝爾維爾酒窖”買瓶葡萄酒，這是一家隨性的天然葡萄酒酒吧。天然葡萄酒已成為巴黎的一大風尚，但可能也含有某些附庸風雅的成分，因為天然葡萄酒的成分其實就是純天然的！我不是葡萄酒專家，因此我會請他們推薦一下。這也是吃晚飯的好地方，你可以從貨架上點一份熟食拼盤和一瓶葡萄酒。

10Forapérohour, I’d head over to Combat, a cocktail bar in the neighborhood.I met the owner, Margot Lecarpentier, at a food presentation and fell in love with her work.I’m always in awe of bartenders, and she has this beautiful way of presenting cocktails like they’re food, on a low counter rather than a high bar.

10開胃酒時間，我會前往附近的“戰斗”雞尾酒酒吧。我在一次食品展銷會上認識了店主瑪戈·勒卡龐捷，并愛上了她的作品。我一直對調酒師心存敬畏，瑪戈遞上雞尾酒的方式宛如遞食物般優雅，是放在低柜臺而非高吧臺上。

11You really feel like you’re being taken care of when you’re there.The cocktails change all the time, but one of my favorites is the Quatresse, a drink named after four ingredients that all start with an “s”: sage, Suze, syrup,and Scotch whisky, which I included inDrinking French.Margot explained to me that the neighborhood is actually called Combat because it hosted animal fights from the late 1700s until the middle of the following century, when city authorities banned the practice.

11在那兒，你會真切感到自己受到熱情接待。雞尾酒總在變，但有一款一直是我的最愛，那便是夸特雷斯，一種根據其中四種成分命名的雞尾酒，每種成分都以字母s 打頭：sage（鼠尾草）、Suze（蘇茲）、syrup（糖漿）和Scotch whisky（蘇格蘭威士忌）。我把這款雞尾酒收錄在了《喝在法國》這本書里。瑪戈向我解釋說，這片街區其實就叫“戰斗”，因為從18 世紀末這兒就開始舉辦動物格斗賽，直到19 世紀中市政當局禁止了這種做法。

12Everything in France has a story, including the drinking culture.The French have their café in the morning, their apéro in the afternoon… they’re a part of their social life and traditions.In the book, I wanted to take a deeper look at France through the lens of their drinks.For instance, take pastis, an anise-flavored alcohol.When it was introduced, it killed many regional apéritifs because everyone wanted to pretend like they were in Marseille, pastis’ hometown.Hence, regional apéritifs ended up falling out of favor.So it’s not just a drink—there’s an entire history behind it.

12在法國，一切都有來頭，包括飲品文化。法國人上午喝咖啡，下午喝開胃酒……這都是他們社交生活和傳統的一部分。在《喝在法國》里，我想通過法國人多樣的飲品更深層地了解法國。以茴香酒為例，這是一種茴香風味的酒，一經引入便擊敗了很多地方的開胃酒，因為每個人都想假裝他們是在茴香酒的出產地馬賽。其他地方的開胃酒因而失寵。所以，飲品不僅僅是飲品——它的背后是整個歷史。

Dinner and a soirée au calme

13For dinner, I might head over to a friend’s house around 9 pm—the French eat late! No drinks for me afterward.I’d just head home to bed.I banned screens in my bedroom, so I’ll usually spend some time reading.Right now, I’m working my way throughThe Seine:The River That Made Parisby Elaine Sciolino.■

晚餐、寧靜的夜

13晚餐，我也許去朋友家吃，晚上9 點左右吧——法國人晚飯吃得很晚！晚餐之后我就什么都不喝了。我會直接回家睡覺。我的臥室不放帶屏幕的物品，所以睡前我通常會讀會兒書。最近，我正讀伊萊恩·西奧利諾的《塞納河：造就巴黎的河流》。 □