A Journey Into Qamdo

YEXEI KANGZHOL

Many people in the world know Boshulha, Tanyiantawen, and Damala-Mangkang are three famous mountain systems, but few have climbed them. Many people in the world know Nujiang, Lancangjiang and Jinshajiang are the three major rivers in Tibet, but very few have drifted on them. In Qamdo, there are many tourist sites admired by the world. They are located amid snow-capped mountains, fast-running rivers and thundering waterfalls, and dense forests. Then there are ancient monasteries, buildings, steles, villages and workshops-so many spots dating back to ancient times. Qamdo is the cradle of the Khamba culture, featuring circle singing and dancing, bell dance and sorcerer dance. There are many villages specialized in painting, wood carving, spinning and weaving, and making gold and silver objects. Visiting Qamdo is now easy. The prefecture enjoys social stability, economic development, convenient transport and tourist facilities and good telecommunications. It is served by Bamda Airport and national highways linking Qamdo with other parts of Tibet, as well as with Yunnan, Sichuan and Qinghai.

ANCIENT RUINS. Twelve km southeast of the seat of Qamdo County lies the first site of the New Stone Age. Located in Karub Village, Gyika Township, it has a history of 5,000 years. Another site in Lesser Enda, which is some 20 km from the county seat, has a history of 3,700 years. Both confirm people lived here in ancient times (see Qamdo in History in this issue). Excavation shows the two sites are of the same culture, although the Lesser Enda site is comparatively more advanced. In the northern part of Xianpi Township, Gongjor County, some 110 km south of Qamdo Town, lies a 2,200 year old tomb. In Baxoi County, 123 km south of Qamdo Town, is the Garxue rock painting showing battles fought in ancient times between tribes, as well as hunting activities. During the Tubo Kingdom, Qamdo was the site of the Dongnu and Supi States (see Qamdo in History in this issue). Cliff carvings found in Zaya County, 65 km southeast of Qamdo Town, have a history of 1,100 years. Other cultural relics in Qamdo include stone statues of the Tubo King Songtsan Gambo, the Goddess of Mercy with 1,000 hands and 1,000 eyes, and Princess Wenchen of the Tang Dynasty, who married Songtsan Gambo.

MONASTERIES. There are many monasteries in Qamdo. Major ones include: Zezhol Monastery. Located in Joreng Township, Dengqen County, it is 45 km from the county seat. In Tibetan, Zezhol means six peaks, symbolizing "six paramita? which means crossing over to the other shore". Built by the Tubo King Moxi Tsampo (born in 1075), it is the largest Bon religion monastery in eastern Tibet, with the greatest number of monks. Garma Monastery. It is also called Garma Dainsa and Garma Lhading monastery. Built in 1185 at the foot of Baixishan Mountain in Qamdo County, it belonged to the Garma Gagyu Sect (founded by Garmapa Duisong Qenba, disciple of Dapo Lhagyi, in 1147). The sect took the lead in adopting the Living Buddha reincarnation system. In the 13th century, the sect won honorific red and black hats from the Ming Dynasty emperor, resulting in it thereafter being called the Black Hat Sect and the Red Hat Sect. The monastery features a combination of Chinese, Tibetan and Naxi architectural styles. For example, it boasts upturned eaves in the shape of lions?paws (designed by Tibetan artisans), which are flanked by eaves in the shape of the beard of dragons (designed by Chinese artisans) on the left and eaves in the shape of an elephant trunk (designed by Naxi artisans). Its cultural relics include a 17-meter-high clay sculpture of Maitreya and frescoes telling the story of Chinese envoys visiting the monastery. The monastery also has a hall containing no pillars, which enshrines a tooth of the second-generation Master Garma Gaxi. Riwoqe Monastery (see A Review of Monasteries in Qamdo in this issue). Qambaling Monastery (see A Review of Monasteries in Qamdo in this issue). Baxoi Monastery. Also called Tongka Monastery, it is 63 km northwest of the Baxoi County seat. It was built in 1473 and belonged to Prince Regent Gongdeling, one of the four major prince regents in Tibetan history. It is home to many cultural relics, including statues of Buddha from ancient India, Tubo and inland China. Other monasteries. Other major monasteries include Garjin Monastery of the Red Sect, built in 1762. Karmado Forest of Dagobas. Located 20 km west of the Riwoqe County seat, it is located in Quyangma Village, Karmado Township. It once possessed 108 dagobas of varied styles. Now, it has several dozen spreading along the mountain slopes shaded by ancient trees. Mosque. Built during the Qing Dynasty, the rectangular shaped structure has a construction area of 2,700 square meters. The inscribed horizontal board above the front gate was bestowed by Qing Emperor Kangxi.

HOLY MOUNTAINS. In the Kham area, there are 25 holy mountains and 18 holy peaks, mostly in Qamdo. Deqen Phodrang Holy Mountain. This is the most important. Located in Riwoqe and filled with scenic spots, the peak is not very high, but features a quiet environment. Gubu Holy Mountain. It is called a "mountain for exploration." Featuring steep cliffs, it is dotted with lava caves. Dorlha Holy Mountain. Located in the White Horse Town in Baxoi County, it is covered with Buddha images and Six-Syllable Prayer Words. Sengqen Namzha Holy Mountain. As the first of the 25 holy mountains in the Kham area, it is where Master Padmasambhava and eminent monks with the Nyingma and Gagyu Sects worshipped. On the 15th day of the sixth month each year, Buddhist followers put on their holiday best, chanted the Six-Syllable Prayer Words, and took a ritual walk around the mountain. HOLY LAKES. There are also many holy lakes in Qamdo. Major ones include: Raog Co Lake. With a water surface of 22 square km, it is located in Baxoi County. North of the lake is the Lhagu Glacier. The snow-capped mountain in the farther distance is covered with azaleas. Mang Co Lake. In the rippling lake there are two islets, home to cranes, eagles, and other rare birds. Three-Color Lake. Located in Benba, the lake adopts white, black and yellow colors.

NATURE RESERVES. In Qamdo Prefecture, lies Henduan Mountains, with high peaks and deep ravines in its eastern part. Its dense primitive forests are home to 71 kinds of animals subject to State protection. Two nature reserves have been set up. Yanjing Nature Reserve in Mangkang. Tucked away at an elevation of 2,800 meters, it covers an area of 1,853 square km. Penbolha Mountain, the highest peak, rises 5,084 meters, while the deepest ravine is 2,300 meters above sea level. In the nature reserve there are close to 30 wildlife species, including snow monkeys. There are only about 1,000 of these monkeys in the world and they are all found either in Deqen in Yunnan and Yanjing in Tibet. Riwoqe Changmaolin Red Deer Nature Reserve. Covering an area of 637 square km, it lies in the northern part of the Henduan Mountains. It is home to some 1,000 red deer. Most parts of red deer can be processed into medicine and tonic food. Its hides are of high quality. It is subject to State protection. In this reserve there are many other rare animal species, such as brown bear, red fox, snow leopard, as well as rare types of fish.