“你我茶燕”在都市里奮飛

燕去燕又回，花開花又落。驕陽似火的夏日，青山綠樹環繞的西湖“香風徐來，水波不興，綠蓋紅衣，照灼云日”，如果此時在湖畔泡上一杯香茗，賞賞湖中“千層翠蓋萬紅妝”的荷花，定會使您心曠神怡，情趣無限。

乙酉早春，正是西湖鶯飛草長、楊柳泛綠的好時節。杭州玉古路163號一家以“你我茶燕”命名的茶館開張迎客。這家茶館雖然經營面積不大，但是裝修頗有自己的特色：它高貴典雅，精致婉約，不似賓館卻勝似賓館，服務熱情，體貼溫馨，真可謂是一家情景交融、富有詩意的茶館。

“茶館不僅是休閑的場所，也是人與人溝通的橋梁。因此茶館首先要與客人真誠的溝通與交流，努力營造出一種賓至如歸的感覺。”這是“你我茶燕”主人倪曉英開茶館的初衷，也是她一直不懈追求的目標。

當倪曉英聊起“你我茶燕”的時候，特別強調人與茶、人與茶館之間的和諧關系。她認為茶館應該符合現代消費觀念，給客人提供清新、簡潔的環境，讓更多的人了解茶文化，熱愛茶文化。

倪曉英過去那段與茶至深的緣分，讓她至今還銘記不忘。倪曉英從原來的浙江農業大學茶學系畢業后，1982年被分配到諸暨茶廠工作三年后調到杭州茶廠從事出口茶葉的品質鑒定工作，一干就是七個年頭。1992年她到浙江第一出口茶廠擔任銷售科長，在這人生最寶貴的十幾年里，她與茶結下了不解之緣。從最初的茶葉制作到后來的負責茶葉銷售，再到最后自己創辦“你我茶燕”，倪曉英把茶看作是自己的終身“朋友”。經過多年的艱辛努力，憑著對茶文化執著的追求和深刻的理解，她“突發奇想”，決定自己開座茶館，既能給茶客提供一處清靜休閑的場所，也可以發揮自己的特長，為弘揚茶文化作點貢獻。于是，一家不到200平方米的小小“你我茶吧”1997年在風光旖旎的西子湖畔湖濱路口開張了。由于經營管理有方，服務誠懇熱情，深得客人厚愛和同行肯定。1999年，在杭州市首屆茶文化節上“你我茶吧”被評為“杭州十佳溫馨茶樓”，其頗有創意的茶藝表演“幽蘭出谷”連續兩屆奪得“金冠獎”、“銀冠獎”，同時還被中國茶葉博物館吸收為向中外客人介紹和獻演的特色茶藝。

今日湖濱路多了一些豪華型的商店的特色店家，昔日的“你我茶吧”不見了，這讓一些鐘情于它的茶客惋惜和惆悵。如今，繼承了中西合璧的“你我茶吧”風格又高于“你我茶吧”，別有風情的“你我茶燕”終于和茶人及廣大的茶客見面了!“你我茶燕”是倪曉英花了一年的時間，經過細心醞釀和精心裝修于今年春節亮相的。它圓了鐘情于“你我茶吧”老茶客的夢，使人們那份若有所失的溫情重又找到了寄托，并有了更深入的延續。

“你我茶燕”沿襲了“你我茶吧”典雅精致、舒適溫馨的風格，在經營面積近500平方米的茶館里，將我國傳統的茶文化和西方現代的酒吧文化融于一體，體現出一種中西合璧、獨具匠心的休閑風格。當我們推開虛掩的門，仿佛走進了一家高星級的賓館，茶館的每一個細微之處都透露出歐式格調，讓人不禁驚嘆中國傳統的茶文化還可以與洋氣十足的外國文化如此巧妙的結合。地面上鋪著的淡藍色地毯是請專業師傅用純羊毛手工編織的，墻上的外國抽象畫是由中國美術學院的教授精心創作的。大廳中央展臺上陳列展出十余套精美茶具，在橘黃色燈光的照射下閃閃發亮，那是用來喝功夫茶的，這些茶具大多數是日本、韓國著名的茶藝專家、香氣專家贈送給“你我茶燕”的。這里裝修的每一個細節，都體現著茶館主人的文化修養。倪曉英把自己多年的珍藏也都在這里展示出來，希望以此與有共同愛好的廣大茶友互相切磋，互相交流，同時也把中國博大精深的茶文化展示給每一位來“你我茶燕”的尊貴客人。

“你我茶燕”擁有近百個座位，茶館內大到包廂的裝潢、布置，小到一套茶具的擺放，倪曉英都是自己親歷親為，對每個細小的地方都絲毫不敢粗心。她經常這樣告誡自己，也時常提醒自己的員工：“你我茶燕”就是要營造一種溫馨的氛圍，使來這里的客人像回家一樣。茶館內有七八個各具特色的包廂，大的可以坐三五好友聚會聊天，小的只可容納情侶竊竊私語，每個包廂不但有各自不同的設計和布置，而且還有頗具韻味的名字，如“丹桂臨風”、“幽蘭出谷”、“紅梅傲雪”、“玫瑰鐘情”、“百合情緣”等。透明晶瑩的桌上擺放著潔凈整齊的茶具，在紫色的燈光下耀眼奪目，幾張對稱擺放著的柔軟沙發和頂篷紫色的紙制手扎燈籠給整個包廂增添了幾許親切和舒適，加上角落的那一盆盆生機勃勃的翠竹，把四周點綴得更加綠意盎然。無論是第一次來的客人，還是對“你我茶燕”有著深厚感情的老茶客，每來一次都會有不一樣的感受。茶館的玻璃門設計同樣十分考究，上面雕刻了數十個用楷書、行書、隸書、草書、篆書等不同字體書寫的“茶”字，旁邊的玻璃窗用古代的仕女圖巧妙地裝飾起來，既顯得美觀大方，又保留了包廂客人的私密空間。入夜時分，休閑桌上點起盞盞燭燈，在淡淡的燭光里，桌上的鮮花、燭光與燈光相映成趣，加之耳邊悠揚的薩克斯音樂，不經意中一股浪漫的溫情便在“你我”之間緩緩地蕩漾開來……

“你我茶燕”名茶薈萃。它匯集了紅茶、綠茶、烏龍茶、花茶、保健茶等八大類50余種純正地道的茶葉，有屬于貢品級的“極品龍井”、“大紅袍”，有采自高山的“羊巖蘭花”，還有“碧螺春”、“武夷肉桂”、“鐵觀音”以及“苦丁茶”、“普洱茶”等各類保健茶。此外，茶館還引進了韓國的餅茶、日本的櫻花煎茶、德國的花果茶、夏威夷的冰茶、斯里蘭卡的紅茶等。你有雅興，還可以一邊品茗啜飲，一邊欣賞精湛的茶藝表演。

“你我茶燕”與眾不同的是，它把茶文化與飲食文化有機結合，相得益彰。茶館特聘了廣東點心師，每天推出五款不同類型的港式點心和甜品，茶點都是每天當場現做，確保了茶點的新鮮可口。一道道現做的點心，熱氣騰騰，清清爽爽地送到桌邊，體現著人文的關懷以及對每一位客人的尊重，讓人倍感親切。這種以茶會友的方式招徠生意，很有人情味，頗有親和力。“你我茶燕”近靠黃龍體育中心，離浙江大學不遠，人們在觀看精彩賽事和投入緊張的學習之余，到這里來喝茶聊天，無車馬之喧，鬧中取靜，讓人一洗風塵，因此雖然開張不久，卻生意紅紅火火，以一枝獨秀于杭州茶館之林。

Her Ambition is a Cup of Tea

By Xiao Yin， Ying Hao

Ni Xiaoying has been in the tea business for a long time. A tea major from Zhejiang Agricultural University， Ni was assigned in 1982 to work in a tea processing factory for three years before she came to work as a quality inspector for Hangzhou Tea Factory. There she supervised tea products for overseas market for seven years. In 1992 she was promoted to a sales manager position at Zhejiang First Export Tea Factory. In probably the best ten years and more in her life， she was deeply immersed in tea and became quite familiar with the quality， aroma， and taste of various teas. In those years she delved into tea and tried hard to find ways to best promote tea as a culture and a way of life.

All these naturally led to the teahouse she set up in 1997. It was located on the Lakeside Road， presumably the best place for a cup of tea in the downtown Hangzhou. The 200-square-meter teahouse， calledou and I Teahouse? became popular with customers and peers in the city’s teahouse industry. Excellent service won the hearts. In 1999， the teahouse was awarded as one of the top ten teahouses in Hangzhou at the 1st Tea Culture Festival. Her teahouse’s tea performance entitled ragrant Orchids out of Valley?won two top awards at the two consecutive festivals. The China Tea Museum took it into its repertoire for domestic and overseas tea aficionados.

Unfortunately， the teahouse was later dismantled for making room for a large-scale downtown refurbishment program.

Today， one year after her first teahouse， she has set up another teahouse to embody her best expertise of tea business. Though it is located in a place away from the downtown Hangzhou， it is better decorated and much larger. The nearly 500-square-meter teahouse inherits the elegance， comfort， sweetness， and sophistication seen in her first teahouse. Patrons often wonder how the Chinese tea culture is so amazingly fused with a luxurious western atmosphere at her teahouse. The light blue wool carpet was custom-made for the teahouse. Abstract paintings were created by professors at China Fine Arts Academy. On the central display table are a dozen of exquisite tea sets， --gifts mostly from Japanese and Korean tea experts.

And the new teahouse has a new name: ou and I， Tea and Swallow? something that reminds one of Ni’s prosperous beginning in the business. Her DIY attention to all the details has remained unchanged. Private rooms of different sizes cater to different needs. And each gets a poetic name. All the glass doors are engraved with the Chinese character 茶 (Tea) in various calligraphic styles.

Of course， a cup of tea is the most important offering in a teahouse. Ni’s tea-list has 50-plus tea drinks in eight categories. These tea beverages are not merely homemade ones. Some are from overseas.

One of the important factors that makes Ni’s teahouse stand out is she offers more than just tea. A chef from Guangdong Province makes delicious dim sums. Five different Hong Kong-styled dim sums and desserts are offered every day.

All this contributes to the reputation and prosperity of Ni’s new tea venture.

(Translated by David)