But there is another city: the old lanes of Arbat that inspired theMuscovite poet and folksinger Bulat Okudzhava; the pavementswhere the Rostovs walked in War and Peace; Georgian restaurantswhere the diners at the other tables know the songs the guitaristsare singing, and join in; cheap food markets, piled with pickles andhoney and salted fish; and the gold onion domes of churches stillgleaming above the lit-up hoardings that advertise shampoos andcosmetics.