提拉米蘇：竟是近代之作

Ａｎｎａ　Ｍａｒｉｅ　Ｖｏｌｐｉ

Open an old Italian cookbook, browse through the index and… surprise! No recipe for Tiramisu. My first encounter with Tiramisu was in 1985. I was in Italy at that time: A friend of mine told me about this new cake recipe she had just acquired. She was so enthusiastic about it that I felt compelled to try it immediately. The taste was unbelievably good, better than anything I'd ever had before, and since then I have been in love with this dessert.

打開一本古老的意大利菜譜，隨意瀏覽索引和……讓人很驚訝！居然沒有提拉米蘇的制作方法。我在1985年邂逅提拉米蘇。那個時侯我在意大利：我的一個朋友將她剛得到的這種新型糕點的制作法告知于我。她滿腔熱情，讓我感到自己被迫立即進行實踐。味道美得叫人難以置信，比我吃過的任何東西都美味，從此，我便愛上了這道甜點。

Everybody knows by now that Tiramisu means "pick-me-up" in Italian, for the high energy content (eggs and sugar) and the caffeine of the strong espresso coffee. There are many different stories about the origin of Tiramisu. It is a layered cake, and therefore some people place its origin in Tuscany, where another famous layered Italian dessert is very popular. It is called "Zuppa Inglese" (English Soup). It is not English and it is not a soup. Instead, it is a simple cake of ladyfingers or sponge cake, soaked in liquor, and alternating layers of chocolate and egg custard.Layered cakes have been around for a long time. The brilliant idea in Tiramisu is not in the technique of layering, but in the components. The great invention is combining together coffee, cream, and chocolate: This is the true innovation of Tiramisu

現在大家都知道“提拉米蘇”在意大利語中的意思是“興奮劑”，因為它含有高能量物質（雞蛋和糖）和濃縮咖啡的咖啡因。關于提拉米蘇由來的故事千差萬別。這是一種夾心糕點，因此，一些人認為它來自托斯卡納，在那里，另一種意大利夾心甜點非常受人們的喜愛，叫做“Zuppa Inglese（英國湯）”。它既非來自英國亦非湯，而是一種浸泡在酒里的簡單的松脆餅或松糕，并且在不同層面上輪次涂有巧克力和牛奶蛋羹。夾心糕點存在已久。提拉米蘇之妙不在于糕點的分層技術，而在于它的成分。這個偉大的發明集咖啡、乳脂和巧克力于一體：這才是提拉米蘇的真正創新。

The first clue is by the famous Italian gastronome Giuseppe Maffioli. In his book "Il ghiottone Veneto", (The Venetian Glutton) first published in 1968, he talks extensively about Zabaglione custard. The name of this cream originates from Zabaja, a sweet dessert popular in the Illyria region. It is the coastal area across the Adriatic Sea that was Venetian territory for a long time during the golden age of the "Repubblica Serenissima" (The Most Serene Republic) of Venice. Zabaglione was prepared in those times with sweet Cyprus wine.

線索首先來自著名的意大利美食家Giuseppe Maffioli。他在自己首版于1968年的《Il ghiottone Veneto》（威尼斯貪食者）這本書中，大篇幅地談論意大利甜點Zabaglione。這個乳脂的名字源于扎巴亞，是一種廣受伊利里亞地區人們喜愛的甜點。伊利里亞地區是亞得里亞海對岸的沿海地區，在威尼斯“圣馬力諾共和國（最和諧安寧的共和國）”的鼎盛時期曾長期隸屬于威尼斯。那時的Zabaglione是用賽普洛斯甜酒配制的。

"The groom's bachelor friends", says Maffioli, "at the end of the long wedding banquet, maliciously teasing, gave to him before the couple retired a big bottle of zabajon, to guarantee a successful and prolonged honeymoon." "The zabajon", Maffioli continues, "was sometimes added to whipped cream, but in this case was served very cold, almost frozen, and accompanied by the baicoli, small thin Venetian cookies invented in the 1700's by a baker in the Santa Margherita suburb of Venice". The addition of whipped cream, the serving temperature, the cookies, all these elements are close to the modern Tiramisu recipe. And even the allusion to the energetic properties of the Zabaglione seems to refer to the name Tiramisu.

“新郎的單身朋友們”，Maffioli說道，“在漫長的婚宴結束后，故意挑逗說在這對夫妻休息之前給新郎一大瓶沙巴瓊以擔保他們會度過一個幸福長久的蜜月。