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一座記錄城市美食的文化殿堂

2012-01-01 00:00:00魏思楓
文化交流 2012年1期

這里演繹的是杭幫菜的前世今生,這里展示的是杭州餐飲文化的經營理念和豐富內涵。讓我們走進藏在江洋畈生態公園之中那可看可嘗的美食殿堂,去領受飲食文化的風情與底蘊。

2011年12月底,在辭舊歲迎新年之際,一座定位為中國最高水平的地方菜博物館——中國杭幫菜博物館,在玉皇山南側的江洋畈生態公園內掀開面紗。

沉淀著杭州的人文底蘊,彰顯著杭幫菜發展歷程,中國杭幫菜博物館杯·我最喜愛的“十佳精品杭幫菜”前段時間的火爆評選活動,讓市民和游客對于杭幫菜的歷史積淀和精髓有更深刻的認識,也為中國杭幫菜博物館的開放迎客作了一輪熱身。

集觀賞、品嘗、體驗于一體的“杭幫菜”博物館,坐落在一個鳥語花香的生態公園,這里不同色彩的花地組合,形成富有野趣的山谷花地景觀?;ǖ刂械挠^景平臺讓游客陶醉于一派姹紫嫣紅之中;濱水觀景平臺能使游客欣賞充滿野趣的次生濕地。眾多的中外游客在長達1300米的木棧道細細賞玩,那形如繡球的蝴蝶花、野趣自然的波斯菊、飄逸靈動的狼尾草,還有鳥兒、魚類、水禽、兩棲類動物為這座博物館營造了美麗別致的外部環境。

杭幫菜博物館建筑面積約13000平方米,分為三層,地上兩層,地下一層,主要有博物館區和經營體驗區兩個部分。地上一層為展示區,采用文字、圖片、多媒體、品嘗體驗等多種形式展現杭州飲食文化。二層主要為博物館的經營體驗部分,提供各種餐飲服務,內設多個不同主題包廂及高檔特色餐飲區。高檔特色餐飲區經營宮廷菜、官府菜、寺觀菜(素菜)、私家菜(民間菜)、迷宗菜(創新菜)等主題菜點,主要展現與南宋宮廷宴、東坡官府宴、杭州素食宴、西湖十景宴、翠竹宴等相關的美食文化。地下層為部分餐飲、廚房及設備管理用房。博物館外二層還有一個挑臺,和一層的臨水平臺錯落有致,那是一個很不錯的室外就餐點。

中國杭幫菜博物館最近征集到一副楹聯:“西湖美景春夏秋冬遠近聽聽看看;杭州名菜東西南北古今品品嘗嘗?!鄙下搶⑽骱叭谌肫渲校捍?蘇堤春曉)、夏(曲院風荷)、秋(平湖秋月)、冬(斷橋殘雪)、遠(雙峰插云)、近(三潭印月)、聽(南屏晚鐘)、聽(柳浪聞鶯)、看(雷峰夕照)、看(花港觀魚)。下聯涵義包含了十道精品杭幫名菜:東(東坡肉)、西(西湖醋魚)、南(南肉春筍)、北(百鳥朝鳳)、古(栗子冬菇——傳統名菜)、今(金牌扣肉——新杭州名菜)、品(一品南乳肉——傳統名菜)、品(西湖一品煲——新杭州名菜)、嘗(宋嫂魚羹)、嘗(西湖莼菜湯)。下聯不僅體現出杭幫菜中的經典菜品,更將源遠流長的杭幫菜歷史文化融注其中,上下聯相輔相成、珠聯璧合。中國杭幫菜博物館還邀請著名書法家、中國美術學院教授王冬齡先生親筆揮毫,演繹楹聯的獨特魅力。

“不嫌酸味桃花醋,下箸爭嘗宋嫂魚”。宋嫂魚羹,是一道杭州名菜。這道菜的由來可以追溯到800多年前。相傳宋高宗趙構,禪位于孝宗后,以太上皇的身份經常在西湖邊游逛。一天,他和隨從到了西湖邊一家小菜館,嘗到了廚娘宋嫂做的一碗魚羹,大加贊賞,并賦詩一首。杭幫菜中很多菜背后都有歷史故事和美麗傳說。到杭幫菜博物館逛一圈,這些掌故都能看到,這些名菜也都能嘗到。

杭幫菜歷史悠久,菜品豐富,特色鮮明,經營多元,以清新本味為特色,在全國享有盛譽。杭幫菜在歷史長河中積淀了深厚的飲食文化底蘊,形成了自己獨特的風味。杭幫菜如同西湖美景一般清淡而雋永,自然而雅致,承載著這座城市的文化和氣質。

美食行業歷來是杭州商貿業的重點行業之一。目前全市共有餐飲企業19000余家,從業人員18萬人。杭州先后有13家杭菜企業被評為“中華餐飲名店”,5家被授予“國際餐飲名店”稱號。近年來,杭州一批知名餐飲企業成功實現了向上海、北京、香港等地的擴張,在全國近20個城市開出了近百家連鎖店,形成了“杭幫菜”效應。它繼承挖掘傳統和民間菜點,又博采南北菜肴精華,不斷創新發展,形成在全國最具影響力的城市菜,被譽為“21世紀的中國菜”。中國杭幫菜博物館的建成開放,不僅將進一步提升杭州餐飲業的飲食文化品位,同時還將推動中國餐飲業文化建設和品牌化、規?;H化的進程。

這是一座能看能嘗的飲食文化博物館。“杭幫菜”博物館將以打造文化餐飲綜合體為目標,通過展覽和演示,反映杭州餐飲發展歷史,體現杭州人文精神。在特色餐飲上,“杭幫菜”博物館將以“名店、名菜、名師”為特色,引進杭州名家名店,并由名家大廚掌勺推出正宗“杭幫菜”的各式菜肴點心,供中外游客品嘗、體驗。

除了展示和體驗,“杭幫菜”博物館還將成為杭州飲食文化交流的平臺。這里將舉辦各種形式的美食消費、品嘗活動,組織餐飲文化研討,開展交流培訓活動,以提升“杭幫菜”的影響力和知名度,推動杭州美食行業繁榮發展。

宋代杭州菜品文化陳設

This part of the exhibition displays the dishes of the Song Dynasty.

杭州名宴展示

This part of the exhibition shows the famous banquet dishes of Hangzhou cuisine

Hangzhou Cuisine Museum Offers Encyclopedic Look at Local Taste

By Wei Sifeng

Hangzhou Cuisine Museum is located at Jiangyangfan Park at the southern foot of Jade Emperor Hill near the former site of the royal palace of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279). The venue used to be a place where sludge dredged from the West Lake was dumped and heaped. The landfill was left alone to evolve naturally and it became a paradise to local fauna and flora. Now it has been developed into a geopark.

The museum, with a built-up area of 13,000 square meters, is a three-storied complex that houses an exhibition section and a restaurant, where visitors can see and taste the local chefs’ wits and talents embodied in dishes. The large building has two stories above the ground and one story underground. The ground floor is the exhibition zone where texts, photographs, and multimedia combine to showcase the local food culture. On the second floor is a restaurant with various culinary styles of the city: dishes from the royal house, the dishes from government officials of the dynasties, the dishes from Buddhist temples and Taoist monasteries around the city, dishes from folk residences, and new dishes created by modern chefs in the city. The restaurant is divided into various sections and private rooms. On the underground floor are a restaurant, a kitchen, and a section for power equipment and other devices. The second floor above the ground has a balcony and the ground floor has a platform spread above water.

Many famous Hangzhou dishes go back to the Southern Song Dynasty, which lasted about 150 years in Hangzhou more than eight centuries ago. The famous dishes on the traditional menu are associated with various legends and folktales. The exhibition offers an insight into the history of the local food.

Hangzhou cuisine features a big menu, a long history, and distinct characteristics. The essential taste is light and natural. The local cuisine enjoys a big national reputation and forms a unique tradition and style.

The museum truthfully reflects the big part the cuisine industry plays in the booming tourism economy of the city which receives more than 65 million tourists from home and abroad a year. Alternatively, Hangzhou is a city of restaurants. At the last count, the city had more than 19,000 restaurants and 180,000 employees. Of these restaurants, thirteen are “Famous Restaurants of China” and five are designated as “Restaurants with International Reputation.”

Restaurateurs in Hangzhou are good at running restaurants. They have helped invent brand new dishes that appeal to ordinary diners as well as gourmets. They have explored and industrialized the way to run restaurant business most effectively at lowest possible cost. In fact, Hangzhou Cuisine is now the most influential cuisine in the name of a city in China. Some food critics even consider it the very cuisine of the 21st-century China.

The cuisine industry has long since expanded to other cities across China. Some best restaurants in Hangzhou have successfully established themselves in Shanghai, Beijing and Hong Kong. At the last survey, the local restaurants opened nearly 100 branches in 20 cities.

It is believed that the museum will definitely promote the local cuisine industry, enhancing its image, scale and internalization.

民國時期杭州西餐館展示

This part of the exhibition tells the story of western restaurants in Hangzhou during the republican years.

中國杭幫菜博物館

An external view of Hangzhou Cuisine Museum

老杭州小吃攤展示(雕塑)

This sculpture shows a roadside food stand in old Hangzhou

蘇東坡與東坡肉傳說展示

This part of the exhibition tells the story of Su Dongpo and the legend of Dongpo Pork

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