Life on the China-myanmar Border

TANG SHUBIAO LI GUOWEN

THE scent of fresh tsaoko fruits filled the spacious home of 47-year-old Yu Fuyan, a farmer in Yujiazhai Village, Yunnan Province. Ignoring their spicy aroma, one could easily mistake them for red dates. All the tsaoko fruits would be sold to purchasers who would take them away from the village for processing, Yu said.

Yujiazhai, a community of Lisu minority, is located just a few kilometers away from the China-Myanmar border and has around 5,000 residents. Here, locals are still largely self-sufficient, and much of their land is dedicated to growing the cash crop tsaoko.

Turning Tsaoko into Cash

October 30 is an important day for Yujiazhai, as the whole village sets about harvesting their main crop. Purchasers send trucks to the village to buy up the farmers heaps of tsaoko — a small, reddish-brown fruit used as a seasoning and in traditional Chinese medicine which only grows in rainforests and tropical re- gions. They buy the fruits at around RMB 7 per kilo. The Yus annual 10-ton yield can bring them an income of about RMB 70,000.

Although tsaoko has long been a traditional crop in the area, the current scale of planting has only developed in recent years. A decade ago, the township government began to guide local farmers in stepping up production, and found purchasers for the fruit. This is part of the national drive to boost farmers income by encouraging underwood plantation in rural areas with appropriate conditions.

Growing on the Yus seven hectares of wooded land, tsaoko has become the familys main source of cash. The four family members are not alone in this; Yujiazhai and its neighboring Caijiazhai Village grow more than 383 hectares of this spice.

The Yus also earn extra income from the 14-plus hectares of Chinese firs that grow on their farm. Most of these have been planted in the last few years, and have yet to reach maturity. The family occasionally fell the older trees, and sell their timber.

The rest of the farm is taken up with crops and pigs for their own consumption. The Yus grow maize, which they use to feed their pigs, and buckwheat and vegetables, which they eat themselves. Their staple grain, however, is rice, which they buy, along with daily necessities, from the township 20 km away. Like other families in the village, the Yus make three shopping trips a month.

The Yus raise four pigs, two of which are still piglets. “A pig usually needs one year to one and half years to grow to full size ready for slaughtering,” said Yu Fuyan. The meat is then smoked or salted so that it can be stored.

The villagers self-sufficiency extends to the very houses they live in, which they usually build themselves. These homes were mostly made from wood and clay in the past, but nowadays, though the main structure is still wood, bricks are incorporated into the buildings.

Home Makers

Given the current high real estate prices in cities, for most urban residents a 300-square-meter house is an unattainable dream. But, for rural households like the Yus, that amount of space is a necessity. Here, the Yus store grain and farm equipment, eat, sleep and relax.

On cold days, the family gathers round the sunk-in fireplace to discuss family affairs or just chat, and often receive visits from neighbors. They also like to join other villagers in dancing and singing around a bonfire in the central square of the village, a common traditional pastime for minorities in southwest China.

Yu Fuyans home didnt cost much. In total, he spent RM 30,000 on the materials. The land itself required no funds, as the state allows rural families each a plot of land for home building. The timber that makes up the main body of the house is from the familys farm, and no labor was paid for, as his immediate and extended family all lent a hand.

In Caijiazhai, a few hundred meters away from Yujiazhai, 36-year-old Ou Chaodong paid a lot more for his home, which stands out in the neighborhood.“We built the house in 2008, with a total expenditure of RMB 240,000,” Yu Chunmei, Ous wife, told China Today. “The wood carving alone cost us nearly RMB 8,000,” she added as she pointed out the elaborate patterns on the window and door frames.

Free education

The sound of laughter filled Ous courtyard, where several children played. Two of them, a boy and a girl both in elementary school, were Ous. His oldest daughter attends the middle school in town. Now that term had started, she boards in the school dormitory to avoid the long commute to and from class.

Inside, we found Ous 68-year-old father, Bu Yucai, chewing on a local herb said to protect the teeth, and watching the children frolic outside. Like most of the older generation in Lisu communities, Bu was dressed in the baggy pants that the men traditionally wear.

Born into a period of conflict, Bus early life was never going to be easy. As an infant he suffered from ill health. As local tradition demanded, he was taken from his family and given a new father and family name, in the hope that the change would bring him better health and new life. This is how he got the surname Bu.

Growing up during the devastation and destitution of the civil war, Bu Yucai never attended school. His son, Ou, however, has completed primary school education, but his wife, Yu Chunmei, did not as she was needed at home to help out in the house. For most Lisu families at that time, teenagers were usually an important part of the labor force.

Yu Chunmei and her husband are the only earners in a family of eight. In addition to their three children and Ous parents, the couple also takes care of Ous 37-year-old brother afflicted with severe learning disabilities. As well as selling tsaoko and grain that they grow on the farm, the family gets extra income from driving villagers into town. Very few people in the village can drive a car– Yu Chunmei had to travel to the city of Baoshan for the first time in her life in order to learn to drive. Now, every two days, Yu Chunmei takes villagers to the town to shop, charging RMB 20 for a return trip.

Yu Chunmei has hopes that her children will receive more education than she did and be able to go beyond the border region to seek their fortunes. The prospects for this look good. Her three children currently enjoy free education, free meals and accommodation. This is part of Chinas “Three Frees” program, which covers students in the nine compulsory years of education in minority regions, and extends to 12 years of education in rural areas of Tibet and Xinjiang. The policy greatly relieves the financial burden on families like the Ous.

Colorful Cultural Life

Although neither Ou nor Yu has ever been to the provincial capital, last year they made the trip to Myitkyina, Myanmars third largest city. Last spring, the couple joined other young adults from the village to participate in the Knife Climbing Festival, riding motorcycles more than 100 km to get there.

The festival is a tradition of the Lisu minority, of which several hundred thousand live in Myanmar. It involves two displays of daring, referred to in Chinese as “climbing a knife mountain and diving into a sea of fire.” This “knife mountain” is in fact a knife-mounted wooden ladder, along which participants climb barefoot and return to the ground with their feet unscathed. They then have to navigate around fires, still barefoot, and perform several challenging movements. Every participant must finish the task unharmed.

In Myitkyina, Ou and Chunmei didnt take part in these demanding activities themselves, instead dancing around the flaming fires. To remind themselves of the excitement they experienced on their first trip abroad, the couple mounted a blown-up photograph of themselves at the festival.

In Houqiao Residential Community, on specific days in the first three months of the lunar year almost every village holds a celebration where the villagers gather to dance around bonfires. As well as these ethnic traditions, the people here also enjoy more modern cultural activities, such as watching films, an activity subsidized and run by the local government. “A film team visits each village in Houqiao Town twice a month to screen movies for the villagers,” said Liu Zufang, head of the Cultural Center of Houqiao Town, herself of the Lisu minority.

Technology is bringing the outside world closer to local Lisu villagers, and even into their living rooms. The TV set at the Ous home can receive as many channels as urban areas. Yu Chunmei longs to have a computer with access to the Internet, but the village does not have the facilities yet. This should all change soon, however, as a government project is underway to link every village up to the Internet. It wont be long before Yu Chunmeis dream comes true and their world expands even further than just over the border to Myanmar.