絲綢文化的新生

戚永曄

2012年9月24日，一場(chǎng)名為“天堂絲綢?武林衣秀”的時(shí)裝走秀在杭州西湖文化廣場(chǎng)舉行。流光溢彩的走秀中，來自杭州的絲綢時(shí)裝吸引了很多來賓的注意。在座不少中外朋友說：沒想到絲綢也能做得那么“時(shí)髦”。

作為絲綢最早的發(fā)源地之一，自古以來，杭州一直承載著絲綢人對(duì)絲綢文化的理想與期望。但是，隨著時(shí)代的進(jìn)步，越來越多的紡織產(chǎn)品正在取代費(fèi)工費(fèi)時(shí)、成本不菲的絲綢。如何打造自己的產(chǎn)業(yè)文化，成了諸多絲綢企業(yè)今天必須面對(duì)的洗禮。那么，杭州的絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)，又在新時(shí)代的浪潮里，走出了怎樣的情境？

“走出去”培養(yǎng)絲綢高端人才

屠紅燕，這位今年才逾不惑的年輕企業(yè)家，被許多媒體譽(yù)為“絲一般的女人”“絲路修行者”。出生于絲綢世家的她，如今執(zhí)掌杭州絲綢行業(yè)“旗艦級(jí)企業(yè)”之一的萬事利集團(tuán)。在別人眼里，她了解絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)的脈絡(luò)、懂得絲綢營銷的方略，是典型的“家學(xué)淵源”。但她卻說，如今的一切，是來自于“走出去”的結(jié)果。

時(shí)間倒回到1989年。那年下半年，杭州市政府針對(duì)當(dāng)時(shí)的絲綢行業(yè)，提出了“四大調(diào)整”內(nèi)部結(jié)構(gòu)的構(gòu)想，即：絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)結(jié)構(gòu)和企業(yè)布局的調(diào)整，產(chǎn)品和原料結(jié)構(gòu)的調(diào)整，絲織裝備結(jié)構(gòu)的調(diào)整和開發(fā)，人才結(jié)構(gòu)的調(diào)整和開發(fā)。

“四大調(diào)整”過程持續(xù)了四年多，到了1993年，杭州絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)達(dá)到了歷史上前所未及的巔峰。其中：工業(yè)總產(chǎn)值達(dá)312900萬元，主要產(chǎn)品產(chǎn)量桑蠶絲達(dá)746.5噸、綢緞9890.49萬米、印染綢13665萬米，全年實(shí)現(xiàn)利潤11318萬元。

而屠紅燕恰巧在那個(gè)年代從深圳大學(xué)經(jīng)濟(jì)管理系畢業(yè)，在人才培養(yǎng)優(yōu)惠政策的鼓舞下，她和許許多多那個(gè)年代的年輕人一樣，踏上了異國求學(xué)的道路。

在國外期間，屠紅燕做過車工、縫紉工、技術(shù)、設(shè)計(jì)，很苦很累。但同時(shí)看到了老外們對(duì)企業(yè)的忠誠和敬業(yè)，也見識(shí)了精細(xì)化管理的重要作用。回想求學(xué)生涯，她說：“在日本，每個(gè)女孩子都會(huì)擁有一套和服，而和服的面料是用絲綢制作的，造價(jià)不菲，這可能是她們一生中唯一的奢侈品。絲綢在國外會(huì)讓女人一生珍重，為什么到國內(nèi)卻變成了廉價(jià)的代名詞？為什么發(fā)源于中國的絲綢文化卻不能在本土發(fā)揚(yáng)光大？”

今天，包括屠紅燕在內(nèi)的那批年輕人，都已成為杭州絲綢界的棟梁。

其實(shí)在那之后，杭州對(duì)于絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)人才“走出去”的培養(yǎng)一直沒有停止——2007年，一個(gè)名為“中國杰出女裝設(shè)計(jì)師發(fā)現(xiàn)計(jì)劃”的報(bào)道見諸杭州各大報(bào)刊，杭州市政府宣布，從當(dāng)年開始，每年選拔6名女裝設(shè)計(jì)領(lǐng)軍人才赴歐洲進(jìn)行為期一至兩年的專業(yè)培訓(xùn)，費(fèi)用予以全額資助，該計(jì)劃將實(shí)施十年。

“為什么要下如此決心？”我把問題拋給了杭州市絲綢與女裝產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展領(lǐng)導(dǎo)小組辦公室主任趙紀(jì)來，他的回答是：絲綢的生命力在于款式和設(shè)計(jì)，而一流的服裝設(shè)計(jì)師和一線服裝品牌大多在歐洲。所以打造“大腕”級(jí)中國女裝設(shè)計(jì)師的培訓(xùn)之地，自然也選在了世界上擁有較高知名度的法國高級(jí)時(shí)裝公會(huì)學(xué)院、意大利歐洲設(shè)計(jì)學(xué)院。

達(dá)利（中國）有限公司總經(jīng)理、杭州絲綢行業(yè)協(xié)會(huì)會(huì)長費(fèi)建明對(duì)此說：“政府都如此重視服裝設(shè)計(jì)人才的培養(yǎng)，作為企業(yè)，該如何下大功夫、花大本錢，為自己的未來投資？”

把國外優(yōu)秀設(shè)計(jì)師“請(qǐng)進(jìn)來”

法籍華人趙菁是個(gè)典型的“80后”姑娘，喜歡玩微博、喜歡吃“口水雞”。2007年她從意大利歐洲設(shè)計(jì)學(xué)院畢業(yè)后來到杭州，受聘于一家絲綢企業(yè)擔(dān)任設(shè)計(jì)師，但平時(shí)大部分時(shí)間呆在自己的工作室里，做著相對(duì)獨(dú)立的工作。雖然生在法國長在法國的她中文說得不太利索，但被問及為什么要來杭州從事絲綢服裝設(shè)計(jì)，趙菁的回答還是思路明晰：“這里有適合我的成長空間，企業(yè)給了我很大的寬容度。而且我喜歡杭州的絲綢，這是一種表達(dá)力很強(qiáng)的原材料，是世界其他地方的設(shè)計(jì)原料無法相比的。”

趙菁不是個(gè)例。目前，在杭州眾多的絲綢企業(yè)里，有一大批優(yōu)秀的中外設(shè)計(jì)師進(jìn)行創(chuàng)作，他們有靈感、有激情，也有相當(dāng)?shù)膫€(gè)人實(shí)力，對(duì)杭州絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)的發(fā)展起到了非常重要的作用，推動(dòng)著杭州絲綢定位差異化和時(shí)尚化的步伐。

2001年，杭州市提出了打造“女裝之都”的戰(zhàn)略決策。2001年11月9日，市政府發(fā)出關(guān)于成立杭州市女裝發(fā)展領(lǐng)導(dǎo)小組的通知，同年12月25日，市政府召開女裝產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展工作會(huì)議，確立了女裝產(chǎn)業(yè)作為杭州都市工業(yè)的戰(zhàn)略地位。2005年11月4日，中共杭州市委、杭州市人民政府又出臺(tái)《關(guān)于弘揚(yáng)“絲綢之府”，打造“女裝之都”的若干意見》，為杭州絲綢女裝產(chǎn)業(yè)的進(jìn)一步發(fā)展豎立了一座新的里程碑。

據(jù)資料統(tǒng)計(jì)，目前杭州有絲綢女裝企業(yè)超過2000家、上規(guī)模的200余家，自主品牌350多個(gè)，數(shù)量占全國的一半。每年的銷售產(chǎn)值達(dá)200億元，從業(yè)人員近20萬。杭州還在前不久成立了女裝產(chǎn)業(yè)聯(lián)盟，通過社會(huì)各方面資源的整合，結(jié)合產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展的實(shí)際，從產(chǎn)業(yè)研究、品牌推廣、市場(chǎng)拓展、國際交流、人才發(fā)現(xiàn)、創(chuàng)業(yè)創(chuàng)新、產(chǎn)業(yè)宣傳、形象推廣8個(gè)方面開展工作，通過各種渠道為杭州贏來不少老外的青睞。

此外，還有以達(dá)利（中國）有限公司為代表的外資企業(yè)，以凱喜雅、萬事利、金富春、喜得寶為代表的絲綢女裝企業(yè)，以藍(lán)色傾情、浪漫一身、秋水伊人為代表的杭派女裝企業(yè)，以及一大批小型作坊式的服裝加工企業(yè)，它們共同開創(chuàng)了杭州絲綢女裝的新天地，絲綢女裝產(chǎn)業(yè)出現(xiàn)了前所未有的繁榮景象。

時(shí)尚走秀博取中外眼球

如果說杭州絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)的“走出去”和“請(qǐng)進(jìn)來”把這個(gè)本來是“夕陽產(chǎn)業(yè)”的行當(dāng)變得朝氣四射，那么以“杭州時(shí)裝周”為代表的各類交流展示平臺(tái)，還進(jìn)一步刺激了國內(nèi)外消費(fèi)，拉動(dòng)了絲綢經(jīng)濟(jì)回暖，帶動(dòng)了絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)回升，推動(dòng)了絲綢產(chǎn)業(yè)結(jié)構(gòu)優(yōu)化。

聞文元現(xiàn)任杭州市西湖國際博覽會(huì)辦公室節(jié)慶處處長，是自2002年以來，西博會(huì)傳統(tǒng)項(xiàng)目—“天堂絲綢 武林衣秀”杭州時(shí)裝周走過10年的見證人之一。10年中，薈萃“天堂絲綢”與“杭州女裝”的杭州中國絲綢城和武林路時(shí)尚女裝街每年都會(huì)攜手舉辦流光溢彩的時(shí)尚走秀和表演，吸引了越來越多老外的目光。

聞文元告訴我，杭州時(shí)裝周每年都有不少老外專程前來觀看和購物，杭州絲綢，就是他們最重要的目標(biāo)之一。而且時(shí)裝周期間展示的那些絲綢，不少都是美國、法國、加拿大等國一線設(shè)計(jì)師和杭州本土優(yōu)秀企業(yè)的手筆。“每年的閉幕式上，還會(huì)有不少來自加拿大、墨西哥等國的超模進(jìn)行T臺(tái)走秀，配合各國音樂的現(xiàn)場(chǎng)演奏，現(xiàn)場(chǎng)演繹杭州絲綢。”

今年的杭州時(shí)裝周，邀請(qǐng)中國首席職業(yè)模特馬青、單靖雅等領(lǐng)銜現(xiàn)場(chǎng)走秀，展現(xiàn)杭州絲綢最優(yōu)雅的魅力。還有英國國際知名設(shè)計(jì)師Nathan Jenden及個(gè)人同名自創(chuàng)品牌首次華麗亮相，少不了杭州絲綢元素浸染其中，用中西方的碰撞展現(xiàn)日益走向國際化的杭州絲綢的新風(fēng)采。

（本文照片由作者拍攝、提供）

Silk Renaissance

in Hangzhou

By Qi Yongye

The time was September 24， 2012； the venue was West Lake Culture Square； the event was a silk fashion show and the event was part of Hangzhou Fashion Week. As models walked the catwalk and displayed， spectators wowed， feeling amazed by the beauty and luxuries of silk， an ancient fabric whose manufacturing originated thousands of years ago around Hangzhou， the capital of eastern Chinas coastal Zhejiang Province. Today， Hangzhou testifies to its ancient silk honor by being home to China Silk Museum.

Hangzhou used to be a silk production powerhouse and declined through war years and political chaos throughout the 20th century. Thanks to the reform that started in the late 1970s， the citys silk industry has staged a spectacular comeback. It is not an easy comeback. As silk is a costly time-consuming material to make， many manufacturers struggle with costs and competition. The city has adopted many effective measures to bring about the silk renaissance and manufacturers have adopted many new measures to stay competent on the silk market.

Foreign Experience

A new generation of entrepreneurs and designers with overseas education and industrial experience are the most important contributors to the comeback of the silk industry in Hangzhou. Tu Hongyan， age 40， is described by the media as a pilgrim on Silk Road. Born into a family engaged in silk business for decades， she is now at the helm of Wensli Group， the flagship manufacturer of the citys silk industry. Wensli thinks it a great honor to have made silk dresses for 2008 Beijing Olympic Games. Some people believe her understanding of silk industry and her bag of marketing tricks are due to the business sense that runs in her family. She disagrees and says she owes her success to studying abroad.

In 1989， the city government came up with a four-point adjustment plan to revitalize the citys silk industry. The adjustment went on for four years. The citys silk industry flourished. Tu Hongyan graduated as a business management major during this key period. She went abroad for a hands-on experience in foreign business. In those years， she did a full range of jobs in fashion business： she worked sewing machines and she designed. The experience transformed her. Today， Tu and many with similar experience abroad have grown up to be the pillar of the silk industry of Hangzhou. Moreover， the city has kept sending new talents abroad to absorb advanced technology. In 2007， the government launched a citywide project： six fashion designers for womens dresses were chosen for special training in Europe for one or two years and the city footed all the bills. The project of annual selection and overseas training is still on.

The going-out strategy has injected fresh blood into the citys fashion and silk industry.

New Talents， Marketing Differentiation

Zhao Jing， a Chinese French and a typical girl born in the 1980s， came to Hangzhou and worked as a designer for a silk business in Hangzhou after she graduated from a design college in Italy. Asked why she works in Hangzhou， she answers in not very fluent Chinese： “I can grow up here as the company lets me do whatever I want. Moreover， I love silk made in Hangzhou. The material is more expressive than any other fabric I find anywhere else.”

Zhao is not an exception. A large group of excellent Chinese and foreign designers are now working for fashion and silk businesses in Hangzhou. Their passion， inspiration， and individuality help Hangzhous fashion and silk industry grow and compete on the domestic and international market.

Hangzhou City implemented a strategy of turning the city into fashion capital in 2001 and adopted preferential policies for the prosperity of the citys fashion industry.

Latest data indicates that Hangzhou now boasts more than 2，000 silk and fashion businesses including large-size manufacturers. These businesses promote themselves through 350 brands. The industry employs about 200，000 people and sells products worth 20 billion a year.

Since 2002， Hangzhou Fashion Week has been part of the annual West Lake Expo， witnessing the rapid growth of the silk and fashion industry of the city. This year， Chinese supermodels were engaged to show off latest designs. At the closing ceremony， supermodels from Canada and Mexico also walked the catwalk. Nathan Jenden， a British fashion designer， made his China debut in Hangzhou Fashion Week in 2012.