“潛入”伊恩·弗萊明的牙買加

“The first law for a secret agent is to get his geography right，” Ian Fleming wrote in The Man with the Golden Gun. And so it is for anyone following the trail of the man who created the world’s most famous secret agent through his adopted island of Jamaica， a journey that starts near Kingston on the tiny spit of beach called the Palisadoes that connects the city to Norman Manley International Airport. Only five miles from the airport， you are already deep into Ian Fleming’s Jamaica.

The island was Fleming’s retreat， artist colony and passion， and he repeatedly sent Bond on assignment there. The legendary spy experienced the island as Fleming did—beautiful and underdeveloped with enough exoticism， history and potential for danger to justify it as a backdrop for postwar espionage adventure.

Fleming’s Jamaica is a Venn diagram of three overlapping spheres: the author’s actual Jamaica of the 1950s and early’60s (when the island was a British colony rapidly becoming a hot spot for the rich and famous); the semi-fictional Jamaica as seen through James Bond; and Jamaica as a location for the 007 film franchise.

In 1947 Fleming wrote a portrait of his adopted home in Horizon magazine， influential enough to fuel a postwar tourist boomlet among well-heeled Britons and Americans. “I have examined a large part of the world，” he wrote. “After looking at all these， I spent four days in Jamaica in July 1943. July is the beginning of the hot season and it rained everyday at noon， yet I swore that if I survived the contest I would go back to Jamaica， buy a piece of land， build a house and live in it as much as my job would allow.” He did just that， as foreign manager for Kemsley Newspapers.

The Palisadoes at night is still as Fleming described it in Dr. No， a“long cactus-fringed road” with “the steady zing of the crickets， the rush of warm， scented air… the necklace of yellow lights shimmering across the harbor.”

When Fleming made his first visit to the island 65 years to the month when I was there， he chose to stay in the cooler climes of the Blue Mountains. I followed his lead that evening and took the B1 road， which curls itself up into the mountains. My destination was Strawberry Hill， an 18th-century coffee plantation turned resort owned by Chris Blackwell， the founder of Island Records. Over a breakfast of scrambled eggs and Blue Mountain coffee (the same morning fare Fleming preferred and Bond nearly always enjoyed) on the balcony of a private bungalow， guests overlook the same vista Bond did in Live and Let Die， where he“had his breakfast on the veranda and gazed down on the sunlit panorama of Kingston.”

Most of Fleming’s days in Jamaica， though， were spent on the northern coast， best reached by the Junction Road “that runs across the thin waist of Jamaica.” Bond and his local sidekick Quarrel， travel the same route in Live and Let Die to get to the secret island lair of the villainous genius Mr. Big. The mountainous interior of the island， “like the central ridges of a crocodile’s armour” as Fleming put it in Live and Let Die， is a constant pull on the steering wheel， back and forth， through little villages， past cliffside sundries shops and on numerous detours into rutted， gravel-spattered dirt roads. It’s a relief to reach the other side and spill into the ramshackle town of Port Maria， its pristine aquiline bay punctuated by the diminutive and uninhabited Cabarita Island， which inspired Surprise Island， the fictional hideout of Mr. Big.

Fleming’s haven was Goldeneye， named for a wartime operation he was involved in， and now one of the most exclusive resorts on the island. Situated in the small town of Oracabessa， once a banana port， Goldeneye is an unassuming patch of land with stone paths and trees planted by former famous guests. Handwritten signs mark the mango planted by Pierce Brosnan， the lime tree by Harrison Ford， the royal palms by the Clintons. Set among them are three villas that， with Fleming’s original house and a restaurant overlooking the ocean， make up the current property. Where the restaurant sits， a gazebo once stood. Fleming liked to take notes in it.

Goldeneye is the mecca of any Fleming pilgrimage， but not the heart of it. In Horizon， he wrote about the other elements that made his life in Jamaica fulfilling， from the food (“delicious and limitless”) to the weather， and most importantly， the people. Fleming wrote that the locals “will surprise and charm you，” which they often did during my time there.

But even in Fleming’s lifetime， Jamaica was evolving. By the time he wrote his final Bond novel， Golden Gun， in 1964， the island had gained independence from Britain， and Fleming’s nostalgia for the colonial era was channeled into his spy. Waiting in the Kingston airport for a flight to Havana， the secret agent recalls his“many assignments in Jamaica and many adventures on the island…the oldest and most romantic of former British possessions.” As he reflected on his escapades in Dr. No and his love affair with Honeychile Rider， “James Bond smiled to himself，” Fleming wrote， “as the dusty pictures clicked across his brain.”

“對一個特工來說，首要的就是得深諳自己所處的地理位置，”伊恩·弗萊明在他的小說《金槍人》中這樣寫道。對于任何一個想追隨這位塑造了世界上最廣為人知的特工的男人其足跡，穿過他棲身的牙買加島嶼的人而言，同樣如此。這個旅程的起點是金斯頓附近的小海灘帕利薩多斯，它連接著金斯頓和諾曼曼利國際機場。離開機場僅5英里(約8公里)，你已經深入到伊恩·弗萊明的牙買加。

這個島曾是弗萊明的閉關幽居之地，也是藝術家熱衷聚居的地方，他一次又一次地將邦德派到那里執行任務。這位充滿傳奇色彩的特工如弗萊明那般體驗著這個島嶼的一切——風光旖旎、原始天然、彌漫著異國風情、有著濃郁的歷史沉淀，卻又危機四伏，這一切足以造就二戰后諜海風云的背景條件。

弗萊明的牙買加是由三個重疊區域所構成的一幅維恩圖:有作者見過的真實的20世紀五十年代和六十年代初的牙買加(當時這里是英國的殖民地，正是迅速崛起的為富人與名流所青睞的地方);有詹姆斯·邦德眼中半虛構的牙買加;還有007系列電影的專屬拍攝地。

1947年，弗萊明在《地平線:文藝評論》雜志中描述他的棲身之所，引起了轟動效應，在英美富人中激起一輪二戰后的旅游熱潮。“我考察過世界很多地方”，他寫道，“比較過后，1943年7月，我在牙買加待了四天。七月是炎炎夏季的開始，每日正午總會大雨傾盆，但我發誓，若能平安度過這場考驗，我將重返牙買加，買塊地，蓋個房子，在那里能住多久就住多久，只要工作允許。”后來在他擔任《肯斯里》報系國際新聞部主任一職期間，他確實移居牙買加了。

帕利薩多斯的夜景仍一如弗萊明在007系列小說之《諾博士》中描述的那樣，一條“兩側種著仙人掌的綿延的小路”上，“蟋蟀長鳴，熱浪襲人，香氣彌漫……港口對面，橙黃的燈火猶如一條項鏈，閃爍著微光”。

在我來到島上的那個月的65年前，弗萊明第一次踏上這片土地，他當時選擇住在藍山上比較涼爽的地方。那天晚上，我跟隨他的足跡，取道這條B1路，一路盤旋而上，走入群山之中。我的目的地是草莓山，一座18世紀的咖啡種植園，后成為度假勝地，為環球唱片公司的創始人克里斯·布萊克所擁有。早晨，在私人小屋的天臺上，品味著炒雞蛋與藍山咖啡(弗萊明偏愛的早餐，也是邦德幾乎天天吃的東西)，邦德在《生死關頭》中看到的景觀這兒的客人也可以盡收眼下:他“在陽臺上吃早餐，凝視著腳下日光照耀的金斯頓”。

然而，弗萊明在牙買加的時光多半在北海岸度過，而通往那里的最佳路徑就是連接路——“它繞過牙買加的‘小蠻腰’”。在《生死關頭》中，邦德和他在當地的伙伴奎羅就是沿著這個路線去到惡毒天才“大人物”在島上的神秘窩點。島中央群山聳立——用弗萊明在小說《生死關頭》中的形容——“就像鱷魚脊背上的凸紋”。駕駛時要牢牢抓緊方向盤，左兜右拐。車子沿途穿過小村落，經過往時的懸崖邊上的雜貨店，兜兜轉轉，車輪碾在車轍雜亂、沙礫遍布的泥路上。來到瑪利亞港的另一頭，在這個老舊的小鎮下車，我才松了一口氣。瑪利亞港那渾然天成的鷹嘴形海灣被這個渺無人煙的小島——卡巴雷塔島阻隔。這里，就是驚奇島的原型，小說中“大人物”的藏匿之處。

弗萊明的棲身之所是其宅邸“黃金眼”，此名取自他在二戰期間參加的一次軍事行動的代號，如今這里已成為島上最高級的旅游勝地之一。“黃金眼”位于小鎮奧卡貝莎——曾經的香蕉進出口港口，是一座不甚起眼的建筑。別墅內鋪著小石路，留有以往著名訪客種下的樹木。手寫的牌子標記著皮爾斯·布魯斯南栽下的芒果樹，哈里森·福特種的酸橙樹，克林頓一家種下的皇家棕櫚樹。三間小屋坐落其間，加上弗萊明的舊宅，還有一個俯瞰大海的餐廳，這就是如今的“黃金眼”別墅。餐廳的所在之處，曾是舊宅的露臺所在。早年，弗萊明喜歡在此處做筆記。

“黃金眼”是弗萊明的崇拜者的朝圣之地，卻并非弗萊明情牽牙買加的重要原因。在《地平線:文藝評論》雜志中，他寫下充盈他牙買加生活的其他元素，從食物(“美味可口而且應有盡有”)到天氣，還有最重要的是，這里的人。弗萊明說當地人“會帶給你驚喜，讓你為之著迷”，我在那里的時候也頗有同感。

然而，即使是弗萊明在世的時候，牙買加也已經在不斷發展。1964年，他寫007系列最后一本小說《金槍人》時，這個島已經脫離英國獲得獨立，弗萊明對殖民地時代的緬懷之情通過他筆下的特工得以抒發。在金斯頓機場等候飛往哈瓦那的航班時，邦德回想著他“在牙買加執行過的任務，在島上的冒險經歷……英國殖民地中最古老的、最浪漫的一方土地”。當他想到自己在《諾博士》中的不羈奔命，還有他與邦女郎黎蜜之間的風流韻事時，弗萊明是這樣寫的，“當那一幕幕模糊的畫面在腦海中穿梭而過時”，“詹姆 斯·邦德不由地笑了”。