去非洲旅行,人們首先想到的交通工具是駱駝,其次是顛簸的越野吉普車,從撒哈拉到東非大草原,再鉆進廣袤的原始叢林,一路上疲憊地與黃沙、熱汗為伍。或者,你還有其他選擇,乘坐一架公務機,去叢林里追尋大猩猩;然后飛去草原上坐熱氣球,看動物遷徙;然后在非洲最美麗的河流上泛舟,總之你隨時能飛到你想去的下一個目的地。
Rich people have many ways to enjoying life, private jet tour is one of them. But not many routes could attract their curiosity.
Europe is towns after towns, Australia has no ancient civilization, and North America looks everywhere the same. Perhaps only Africa, the continent with vast desert, mystic forest, and teeming plains, could arouse the interest of private jet travelers.
Private jet can get you to the most mysterious destinations in the continent without the exhausting trek experienced by commercial airline passengers.
If you have a long range business jet, you can also fly from China to Africa, with a short stopover in a Mediterranean city such as Monaco, Rome, Marseille or Madrid. Or you can book a tailor made charter jet trip with travel operators in Europe. Below is a classic private jet route to Africa.
有錢人的玩法很多,乘坐公務機旅行便是其中一項。雖然世界上的公務機旅行線路那么多,卻只有寥寥幾條航線能夠喚起他們的強烈好奇心,勾起他們冒險的欲望。
歐洲大陸密集的城鎮對有錢人來說沒有神秘感,澳洲的文明底蘊又過于稀薄,北美大陸則千篇一律,或許只有在非洲,才能將浩瀚的沙漠、神秘的叢林、廣袤的草原用飛機串聯起來,泛起公務機旅行客的無限遐想。試想一下,當有一架飛機隨時候命時,肯尼亞大草原壯麗的動物遷徙、叢林深處世界上最奢華的帳篷之宿、乞力馬扎羅的雪頂……這些離你都只有一步之遙。
如果你乘坐公務機,就能從候機、轉機、轉車等瑣事中解脫出來。你隨時可以跨越非洲大陸遼闊的土地,去往這個大陸最神秘、最誘人的地方,住在都市或叢林中最舒適的酒店,享受各種美食。
對于一名中國人,如果想嘗試上述公務機非洲之旅,而且你的私人飛機航程夠遠,就可以乘坐自己的飛機前往地中海北岸的某座城市,如摩納哥、馬賽、羅馬或馬德里,稍事休整后飛往非洲大陸。如果想包機去非洲旅行,歐洲有許多旅行機構提供此類服務,旅行線路也可以私人定制。下面,你將看到的是一條非常經典的非洲大陸公務機之旅。
從尋找大猩猩的冒險開始
烏干達對于中國人來說陌生而遙遠,但它卻是深入接觸非洲的不錯選擇。因為它會顛覆你對非洲干旱、荒涼的印象,那里有世界上最稠密的原始雨林,雨林邊緣的綠色山巒猶如天然的高爾夫球場一樣精致美麗。
你的公務機將會降落在烏干達首都坎帕拉,這是一座充滿綠意生機勃勃的城市,就像建在巨大的綠地公園里。在首都稍作休整后,你將乘坐當地的小飛機深入地球上最茂密的森林,和向導以及承擔保護任務的軍人展開一場尋找人類近親——大猩猩的冒險旅程。
當小飛機停在果嶺一樣平整的草坪上,這時你已經接近森林了。在接下來尋找大猩猩的路上,如果有一雙雙棕黃色的眼睛盯著你,那就證明眼睛的主人——非洲草原大象攔住了道路。這些草原中的大象比在沙漠中的象個頭小一號,利用它們體形的優勢,這些看似笨重的家伙甚至可以攀過森林中的丘陵墻。一旦路被攔住,掛著AK47的軍人將揮揮手,表示即將干點什么,然后導游會向游客們說:“如果象群向我們撞過來,你就趕緊逃命。”通常不等旅行客明白過來,軍人就已經向天上打了一槍,然后象群轟轟地開始迅速移動、鉆進叢林了。它們的轉移速度之快絕對超出你的想象。這或許是個事先安排的旅行節目,可如果不是,說明非洲人真的喜歡拿生命開玩笑。
走進遮天蔽日的原始叢林,跌跌撞撞徒步45分鐘后,游人們差不多就能遇到大猩猩家族了。在樹干枝葉中間,你會第一次看到如此巨大的背影。如果是一頭成年雄性大猩猩,它濃黑的皮毛中會鑲著部分銀白色。當寬闊厚實的肩膀上龐大的頭漸漸轉向游客這邊,大多數游人都會僵在原地,而向導則模仿起山脈黑猩猩的聲音,向對面的龐然大物表示友好并讓它放松。這里的導游為了讓大猩猩接受人類,曾經假裝和大猩猩一樣吃樹葉,現在這些“表親”已經不再對人類懷有敵意了。
說真的,當大猩猩的表情嚴肅、目不轉睛地鎖定你時,乘坐公務機的成功人士們,你們會心驚膽戰嗎?
這些與人類非常接近的大猩猩現在僅存700只了,目前一半的數量都在烏干達的Bwindi Impenetrable森林,當地人現在都很珍惜這些人類的“表親”——這一點從一開始我們就意識到了,因為導游早早告訴游客不能用閃光燈,站在7米以外也不能對著大猩猩咳嗽或者打噴嚏。
最后,導游將帶著你前往雨林中的“茅草屋”。這是一種頂上鋪滿了看起來軟綿綿的枯草的叢林小屋。走進去,你會發現這里的房間相當豪華,你甚至可以在真正的原始叢林里享受浴缸SPA。大猩猩有時會路過這里,在茅草屋外走走停停,好奇地東張西望。茅草屋的服務人員卻毫不在意,做SPA的你也無需擔心,這些鄰居不會和你搗蛋的。傍晚時的晚餐會在雨林環抱中進行,啪啪的篝火和越來越明亮的星空交相輝映,游人們圍成一圈開始交流當天的“追猩”之旅。廚師會上5道菜,并且會極力推薦他最愛的“青香蕉卷雞肉”。這是烏干達特色菜,中間還裹著涂抹了奶油的菠菜和堅果醬,讓你盡情品味“非洲味道”。
Tracking Gorilla in Uganda
Although unfamiliar to most Chinese, Uganda is a good starting point for a trip into Africa. With the world’s thickest ancient forest and continuous green mountain ranges, Uganda unveils a vibrant Africa totally different from the dry and barren image in our impressions.
You can land you business jet in Kampala. Take a break, and change to a smaller airplane to the forest. From there, you will embark on a Gorilla seeking adventure with a guide and armed guards.
The rotor aircraft will land on the grassland outside the forest where you will change to ground transportation. Do not be surprised if you run across a group of African elephants. Smaller than desert elephants, these elephants can cross the forest without any difficulty. Normally, the armed soldiers will fire their AK47 to scare them off, but always be prepared to run for life if they run towards your vehicle, because they move really fast despite their cumbersome size.
In about 45 minutes, you will reach the Gorilla family. The gorillas, particularly the silverbacks, are unbelievably strong and can easily injure a person in just seconds. Most tourists would freeze onsite when a silverback turns its gaze on them. The guide would mock the sound of gorilla to help the gorillas relax and accept its visitors. It is said that local guides would eat leaves with gorillas to blend into their family and reduce their hostility when they bring visitors along. Would you be afraid when the gorillas stare at you?
There are about 700 mountain gorillas remaining in the whole world Africa and half of these live in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest of Uganda. The locals are very protective of these closest kin to human. Before you depart, your guide would request you to turn off flashlight and do not cough within 7 meters of the gorillas.
The gorilla trek ended with a stay in a cabin like hotel in the woods. With grass grown over its roof, the cabin is very luxurious inside. You can even enjoy tub SPA in the middle of the forest. Sometimes gorillas would pass by or poke around, but they would not step in to ruin your stay. At dusk, you can enjoy your dinner beside a bonfire where you can share your experience with other tourists. The chef would serve 5 courses of meal and likely recommend the local specialty, the “green banana chicken roll” served with spinach, cream and nut sauce.
非洲草原熱氣球之旅
離開烏干達之后,下一站是坦桑尼亞。對于乘坐公務機旅行的人,他們離開旅館時一如既往地輕松,因為一切行李都留給了門童,然后它們會跟著游人上公務機,并出現在下一站的酒店里等著主人。
在坦桑尼亞,你將瞬間從昨天浪漫的叢林穿越至非洲大陸最壯麗的草原,而你欣賞草原的視角將是俯瞰,交通工具是令人興奮的熱氣球。
通常天還沒有亮,旅客就要前往熱氣球升空點。非洲并非人們想象中的干燥大火爐,早晨空氣濕潤微涼,所以酒店會常備毛毯供早起探險的游客使用。到達Serengeti的熱氣球出發點時,熱氣球駕駛員會如戰前鼓舞一般地喊一句:“誰和我一起歡呼?”于是乘客們舉手歡呼。駕駛員從卡車上取下氣球,用繩子將它和籃子連起來,隨后鼓風機、熱氣裝置呼呼帶風,將汽球吹得鼓鼓的,成為一個華麗的、即將升上天空的彩球。這時旅客跳進氣球的籃子里,迎接他們的是新的天空之旅。
有時當氣球升空時,草原上的郊狼、金錢豹會遠遠奔過來,在朝陽中追逐熱氣球。這樣的畫面無疑讓游人們既吃驚又興奮。當你真正瞧見這一幕,就能想象到這些獵手追逐長頸鹿、斑馬時是多么驚險。在天空中,你將看到有生之年最壯觀的景色。數不清的羚羊、野牛、角馬、非洲獅、大象在金色晨光中散落在草原上,成群結隊地享受大自然。
熱氣球飛行通常都很順利,氣球駕駛員說以往曾發生過“緊急迫降”事件。熱氣球被吹進了森林里,乘客爬出籃子,發現自己闖進了毒蛇的地盤,于是跌跌撞撞、逃之夭夭,最后在荒野中無助地站上20分鐘。不過這樣的宣傳只能令游客更加欲罷不能。
熱氣球最終降落在灌木叢中,在這里吃完早餐后,就驅車前往草原中舒適的帳篷酒店。每個帳篷的面積35~50平米不等,內部設施按照頂級酒店的標準進行配置,埃及棉的床單,羽絨枕頭,水晶玻璃酒杯等。在沒有人煙沒有自來水的草原上,竟然有洗澡的淋浴器和抽水馬桶,這些材料是由卡車運到草原上的。酒店的工作人員分為兩撥:一撥在客人到達前先去選址扎營,搭好所有的硬件設施;另外一撥在營地為客人提供貼身管家式服務,服務人員與客人的數量始終保持在2:1。到了夜晚,帳篷外燃著篝火,還有持槍警衛負責安全。
Tips:
非洲私人飛機旅行的航線主要集中在埃塞俄比亞、烏干達、坦桑尼亞、盧旺達、贊比亞、博茨瓦納、納米比亞、南非一線。旅行公司會負責所有簽證以及所有行程。Frontiers Travel、Lakani、AbercrombieKent都是有非洲旅游項目的私人飛機旅行的公司。其中AbercrombieKent已有20多年經驗并長期和當地會員制的旅行地及酒店合作。
Private jet tours mainly concentrate in Ethiopia, Uganda, Tanzania, Rwanda, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa. Local travel operators can prepare everything for you from itinerary planning to visa application. Frontiers Travel, Lakani, AbercrombieKent are business jet travel agencies in Africa. AbercrombieKent, in particular, has over 20 years partnership with membership-based destinations and hotels in Africa.
Hot Air Balloon Over Tanzania Plains
The second stop is Tanzania. As you left, the doorman in your hotel will came along on our jet to attend to our luggage and prepare your next stop. Here you will be viewing the teeming plains and your ride will be the exciting hot air balloon.
Hot air balloon safaris usually depart at early morning. The morning air is usually cool and humid, so most hotels prepare blankets for the early birds. At the launch site in Serengeti, the balloon captain will remove the balloon from the truck, hook up the basket, and pump the balloon with an air blower until the balloon lift up in the air. After that you can step into the basket to enjoy the journey.
As the balloon floats, coyotes and leopards would pursue you on the ground. As the sun rises, you will be able to see the grandest view in your life. Countless antelopes, buffaloes, gnus, lions and elephants spread across the plain enjoying life in the great nature.
Balloon ride is often safe, but accidents happen. It was said that once there was an emergency landing in which the balloon was blown into a snake nest in the forest and the passengers on board had to run for life and stand helplessly in the wildness for over 20 minutes. But I believe that would only increase your desire to experience the tour.
The ballon will land beside a camp hotel surrounded by shrubs. Each camp, ranging from 35-50 square meters, is furnished according to top hotel standards with Egypt cotton sheets, down pillows, and crystal glasses. There are even shower and flush toilet in the middle of nowhere. Of course, the hotel and its supplies are transported here by the logistic team supporting your tour. Each guest is served by two staff. One of them will prepare the camps in advance as you take the ride, the other will offer personalized service during our entire trip. At night, armed guards will patrol the camp site to ensure your safety.
泛舟博茨瓦納的Chobe河
經過了尋找猩猩和熱氣球的冒險之旅后,非洲公務機之旅的第三站可以選擇博茨瓦納。公務機將直飛Chobe國家公園,在美麗的Chobe河上開始一次泛舟之旅。在河面上,你將靜靜地感受美麗的非洲。
Chobe河坐落于Chobe國家公園,是公園的北部邊界線。這里的觀光船是非洲久負盛名的游覽項目。通常觀光船會在下午4點半左右出發,一次能乘坐十多個人。在湛藍的河水表面,你可以盡情欣賞非洲的自然風光,看河邊徘徊的獅子、喝水的大象,見證河岸景色從夕陽余暉到一夜星光。在小船上手握葡萄酒或者冰鎮啤酒,隨船緩緩的沿河而下,很快就能看到河馬家族,他們張大的嘴巴露出了讓人印象深刻的牙齒。而遠處草原的河馬媽媽正帶著它的小孩悠閑地吃草,慢慢悠悠的模樣,叫人完全無法想象這些短腿胖子們奔跑時能達到50千米的時速。需要提醒游人的是,如果在船上突然聽到水下一陣轟鳴聲,那并不值得大驚小怪,導游會鎮靜地告訴你那是犀牛的聲音。其實犀牛們在很遠的草坪上,只不過它們發出的聲音很特殊,可以順著路面傳到水中,并且在水中傳播很遠,直達船只所在的地方。
泛舟Chobe河時,相機里出鏡率最高的一定是非洲草原之王——大象。這些在河岸邊的大象,不斷地把泥土抹在身上,這樣它們能感到涼爽舒適。有時一些大象竟然會從船只旁邊游過,導游還會特意將船靠近大象,這令游人不禁擔心:萬一這龐然大物突然生氣將船掀起怎么辦?不過導游說大象的記憶力很好,它們記得友善的導游,不會攻擊我們船。
據說大象才是真正的草原之王,獵豹和獅子都會對它們敬而遠之,它們也是最大的森林破壞者,遠處的大象正在啃著樹皮,還在樹干樹枝上磨皮擦癢,每每有象群經過的地方,森林就會一片狼藉。
“融入大自然的旅程”在船只駛入森林之屋后達到高潮。小船順著河水來到森林木屋,在這里你能切身體會一把猿人泰山的生活——房屋周圍不時會有水牛群、羚羊群、斑馬群……各種野生動物經過。河馬經常會慢悠悠搖著屁股從游泳池邊經過,長頸鹿總是不安分地挨蹭著屋邊的金合歡花叢,河邊的大象時不時翹起鼻子向你致意……這才是真正地回歸大自然。
在這里,每棟別墅都有自己的露天淋浴,在非洲曠野的夕陽下或寧靜的星空下享受淋浴,沒有比這更美好的事情了。值得一提的是,這里的15個獨立別墅都實行會員制,設施齊全,并配有非洲最頂級的SPA,許多人流連忘返,好在他們的公務機不會像航班那樣“時不我待”。
Cruise the Chobe River in Botswana
The third stop is the Chobe National Park in Botswana where you can take a VIP cruise down the quiet waters of the Chobe River.
The river flows along the north end of Chobe National Park. Carrying about a dozen passengers, the VIP cruise usually depart around 4:30. You can watch the beautiful sceneries and animals living alongside the river, lions, elephants, hippos, and rhinos. The rhinos could make a very big noise, even if they are on the river bank, you can hear their snort in the middle of the river.
The most popular creature here is undoubtedly the elephants. They would swim in the water or cover themselves up with mud to keep cool. You guide would signal the cruise to get close to the swimming elephants for better photos, and told you that the elephants are very friendly to the familiar guides.
It is said that elephant is the king on the plains, even the leopards and lion would get out of their way. They are also the biggest destroyer of forests. Wherever they pass by, they would leave behind a messy trail.
The back-to-nature cruise will culminate when it arrives at the destination, a group of wooden villas in the forest. Here, you can experience the life of Tarzan as groups of buffaloes, antelopes, zebras, rhinos, and giraffes pass by from time to time. In the distant, you may also find elephants greeting you with their long noses.
Each villa has its own open bath. What could be more beautiful than enjoying a show under the starry sky in the wildness of Africa? It is worth mentioning that the 15 independent villas here only open for members and it offers the best SPA in Africa. With a business jet, you can stay as long as you like without worrying about missing your flight.
納米比亞的“非洲推拿”
飛行的下一站是納米比亞,等待你的將是沙漠中的“非洲桑拿”。
沙地摩托車在沙漠的“紋路”中上下抖動,當地人將這稱為“非洲推拿”——那些松軟的砂礫和沙坑搭配滾動的車輪,會震得你的牙齒連著頭部咯咯作響,你的脊柱仿佛都在做彈簧運動。每當有人騎沙地摩托車進入Capricon熱帶森林北部的沙漠,“按摩”頻率不斷提高的時候,就連車上的衛星導航儀都在一顫一顫中不斷重復著“正在重新定位”的提示音。
這里只有無邊蔓延的細沙,在陽光下閃爍著。遠處并行的車輛有時看起來像是爆炸后著火了一樣,導游會解釋說那是海市蜃樓效應,對面的車開著遠光燈,你看到的那團火是地面熱氣使燈光的位置移到了車的四周。在這里開車即使白天也需要開著車燈,因為到處飛舞著黃沙。
我們要去哪兒?公務機旅行的這一站是非洲沙漠探險,旅客們要去探秘Bushmen人的沙漠村落,尋找風云變幻的綠洲沼澤。
在沙漠中,帶刺的金合歡樹遠看就像兇器一樣,既熱情又冰冷。那些在沙漠中進化了的黑色犀牛和非洲獵豹常常會從沙脊上現身,它們比草原上的同類顯得孤獨。在沙堆上,導游會彎腰抓住試圖逃走的甲蟲,然后猶如打開懷表一樣打開甲蟲的外殼,說“這些沒有翅膀的甲蟲有很強的生存能力,它們從海風刮來的霧中喝水,可以將自己的外殼在‘磨砂’與‘光滑’兩種形態間不斷轉換,以應對沙漠中起伏的溫差”。
行進中,客人會經過Bushmen人的村莊,由木頭支成的幾座拱形小屋構成。沙漠中的民族顯得有些憂郁,但向導說這是他們表現怡然自得的另一種方式。摩托車隊繼續前進,翻過一座又一座的沙丘,最終到達目的地時你甚至無法用言語形容自己看到了什么。在傍晚的沙漠里,那是一座神奇的沼澤湖地,湖水倒影著錯落有致的灌木,這里就像某個世界的盡頭,讓你不舍離去。
不過,現實正因為殘酷而充滿期待。當你騎著摩托車,不情愿地離開沙漠湖澤返回Capricon熱帶森林的酒店時,等待你的是停在不遠處的公務機。你可以告訴自己明天再來,或者明年再來,抑或繼續向南,一直飛到南非盡頭的table山脈上眺望大海。
African Massage in Namibia
Our last stop is Namibia, known for its oasis and the “African massage”.
They call it “African massage” – when the gravel road beneath your wheels becomes so corrugated it rattles the teeth in your head and the bones of your spine. When we were just north of the Tropic of Capricorn the vibrations got so bad they managed to activate the satellite navigation device which keeps blustering “Recalculating! Recalculating!” as if overwhelmed by the vibration.
As we drive under the glaring sun, I was shocked to see an approaching vehicle exploded and engulfed in flames. Then the guide told us it was just the headlights magnified and distorted in the heat-warped air. You have to keep the headlights on even at day time to be seen through the dust.
We are on our way to Berbers village and the oasis, passing by rare desert-adapted black rhino and cheetah. The guide stooped to pluck a scuttling beetle from the sand as if he had removed the back of a timepiece to examine the mechanism beneath. “This wingless insect is a miracle of adaptation, drinking the water contained in sea fogs and changing its black carapace from matt to shiny to matt again, alternately repelling and retaining heat according to the fluctuating desert temperatures”, said the guide.
The Berbers live in arch shaped wood huts. They looked a little melancholy, but according to our guide, that is how they express contentment of life. We continued to climbe one dune after another until at dusk we reached our destination. Its beauty is beyond words. In front of our amazed eyes is a lake, with reflections of the surrounding shrubs on its peaceful water, attracting you to stay there till the end of the world.
But we returned to the hotel in Capricon, albeit very reluctant. But life is more exciting with longings and expectations, isn’t it? I will be back, I promised to myself, tomorrow or next year.
曹霞 參加AK非洲私人飛機旅行項目的游客:
我踏上這片土地之前,想象中的非洲是荒蠻落后的不毛之地。但是AK私人飛機之旅讓我重新認識了非洲。極致的文明和極致狂野的自然在這次旅行中處處產生絕妙的碰撞,震撼人心。
草原上生命無常,死亡和新生都不可預期,讓我深刻地體會到要珍惜當下,好好活著。人生如過眼云煙,應過好每一刻。生命是如此脆弱而渺小,所有的煩惱和壓力都不值一提。這片大陸讓我看到生命的本質。
Cao Xia: Reflections on My AK Private Jet Tour of Africa
Before I set food on the continental, I thought Africa is a backward and barren land. But the AK business jet trip changed my perception. The clash between civilization and nature and the unpredictability of life and death opened my eyes and reminded me to seize the moment. Life is fragile and short. Why linger on the troubles and pressures. In this land, I found the true meaning of life.