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Peru: Taquile and Its Textile Art

2014-04-12 00:00:00
聯(lián)合國青年技術培訓 2014年1期

The island of Taquile is located on the Peruvian High Andean Plateau, in the Titicaca Lake, in the department of Puno. The candidature concerns the cultural space of Taquile Island and its textile art, which is produced as an everyday activity by both men and women, regardless of their age, and worn by all community members.

The Taquile population was relatively isolated from the mainland until the 1950s and the notion of community and family is still very strong among them. The weaving tradition on Taquile island goes back to the ancient Inca, Pukara and Colla civilizations; it thus keeps elements from pre-Hispanic Andean cultures alive in the present. Besides Aymara and Spanish, the Taquile people speak Quechua, an indigenous language of Peru.

All weaving is done on pre-Hispanic fixed and pedal looms. The most characteristic garments are the so-called chullo, a knitted hat with an earflap, and the calendar waistband, depicting the annual cycles connected to ritual and agricultural activities. The calendar waistband has attracted the interest of many researchers as it depicts elements of the oral tradition of the community and its history. Although the design of Taquile textile art has introduced new, contemporary symbols and images, the traditional style and techniques are still maintained.

Taquile Island has two schools, one of which is a specialized school for learning Taquile handicrafts, contributing to the viability and continuity of the Taquile tradition.

塔奎勒島,位于秘魯?shù)陌驳谒垢咴⒌牡目瞧张柯涞囊徊糠帧K諐u的文化空間及其紡織藝術構成了不分性別、年齡的人們每天的活動內容,他們每個人都要穿這些紡織品。

20世紀50年代以前,塔奎勒人一直與大陸隔絕,部落與家族的觀念非常濃厚。塔奎勒島上的紡織習俗可追溯到古老的印加、普卡拉、考拉文明,至今仍鮮活地保留著西班牙殖民前的安第斯文明的痕跡。除了艾馬拉人和西班牙人以外,塔奎勒人也講一種秘魯?shù)谋就琳Z言——蓋丘亞族語。

在這里,所有紡織品都用殖民前的腳踏式織布機織出。最有特色的衣服叫做“扣勒”,即帶有御寒耳罩的編織帽和記述一年儀式、農業(yè)活動的日歷腰帶。日歷腰帶對部落傳統(tǒng)和歷史的描述方式吸引了很多研究者。盡管塔奎勒紡織圖案已經(jīng)引進了新的、當代的符號和圖像,但它仍然保持著傳統(tǒng)的風格和技術。

塔奎勒島上有兩所學校,其中就有一所職業(yè)學校傳授塔奎勒手工藝,這對塔奎勒傳統(tǒng)的生存和延續(xù)有著巨大貢獻。

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