像云南人一樣吃蕈菌

每年7、8、9月間，是野生菌愛好者的節(jié)日，因為彼時正是云南各樣野生菌蓬勃上市的季節(jié)。等了一年饑腸轆轆的人千里迢迢到云南，沉下來，每天用新鮮的各種叫不出名字的肥嫩喜人的菌子把自己喂飽，吃到渾身都充滿了菌子帶來的大山靈氣，然后嘆一口氣說，這才是鮮美的生活。

July， August and September are the best months for fungus lovers to feast their palate with a plethora of wild Yunnan fungus that only grow at this period of the year. After a year’s waiting， fungus-craving foodies would travel all the way to Yunnan for a short stay， feed themselves everyday with a variety of fresh and tender fungus that they don’t even know the name， until they carry the aura of the mountains and exclaim， this is how “fresh” life looks like.

云南人餐桌上最不可缺的一道菜必定是野生菌，干巴菌、牛肝菌、青頭菌、雞樅菌、松茸菌……所謂“無菌不歡”。對于土生土長的云南人來說，下雨天吃菌子，是天經(jīng)地義的事情，菌子就是天上掉下來的餡餅，整個夏天，仿佛隨雨水和雷聲而來的，全是鮮美肥嫩的菌子，找菌子也會是兼具郊游和探險于一身的有益活動，人人可得，絕無成本。只要雨過天晴，隨便找個山坡，就能完成這項游玩與美食同時進(jìn)行的活動。

一部《舌尖上的中國》令云南松茸紅遍大江南北，但是很多人都不知道，在松茸之前，其實云南人最愛的是雞樅菌?！半u樅菌，秋七月生淺草中，初奮地則如笠，漸如蓋，移晷紛披如雞羽，故名雞，以其從土出，故名樅?！比夂穹蚀T，質(zhì)細(xì)絲白，味道鮮甜香脆。且價格也不菲，尤其是剛上市之時，可以賣到800多元一千克。

云南擁有野生菌978種，占已知世界2166種野生菌的45%，占中國的91%，是全球野生食用菌品種和數(shù)量最多的地區(qū)之一。云南食用菌92.8%是野生食用菌，自然產(chǎn)量達(dá)50萬噸。相比于其他野生食物，菌子營養(yǎng)價值高、味道鮮美，越來越受到眾多食客的追捧。現(xiàn)在云南大部分的野生菌被空運到省外乃至國外多個地方，成為各地餐廳的珍貴食材。

Fungus is an essential ingredient in Yunnan cuisine， be it dry fungus， boletus， green fungus， or termite mushroom， fungus is a thing the locals could not “survive without” on the dinner table. For Yunnan natives， eating fungus on rainy days is something they take for granted. Fungus is a gift from the heaven. All summer， fleshy and fresh fungus arrives with rain and thunder. Fungus hunting is also a healthy sport embodying picnic and adventure， and it is cost free and accessible. As the sky clears after a shower， you can go to a slope， and start this gourmet’s game.

Matsutake is probably the most famous Yunnan fungus thanks to the documentary A Bite of China， but interestingly， chicken fir， alias termite mushroom， is the favorite fungus for locals， although lesser known to the public. “Chicken fir grows in shallow grass in July， initially in the shape of a hat， then a canopy. Under the sun， its shadow looks like chicken feathers， getting the “chicken” in its name. And because it grows out of soil， it is named after fir.” The white textured fungus is fleshy， tender， fresh， and crunchy. It is also quite expensive， with freshly picked ones selling at more than 800 yuan a kilo.

Yunnan produces the biggest variety and largest quantity of edible wild fungus in the world. It boasts of 978 varieties of wild fungus， representing 45% of the 2，166 identified wild fungus worldwide， and 91% that of China. 92.8% of the 500，000 tons annual product of edible fungus in Yunnan is wild fungus. More nutritious and fresher than other wild food materials， wild fungus has become a sought-after delicacy for more and more foodies. Most of the wild fungus in Yunnan is now air transported to other parts of the country and other countries to be served as upscale dishes in restaurants.

菌香包燒花米飯 Fungus steamed colored rice

五色花米飯是布依人的特產(chǎn)，不但色彩鮮艷美麗，吸收了新鮮的野生菌的香氣更顯濃郁。Five-colored rice is a specialty of the Buyi nationality. Steamed with fresh fungus， the rice is colorful and enticingly fragrant.

鮮菌需偶遇

對于熱愛美食的Shine來說，野生菌無疑是她非常酷愛的食材之一。每一年她都要和幾個美食作家一起去云南體驗采菌、吃菌，能夠親自挎上小籃子上山，到大自然中去尋找自己喜歡的食材，絕對是件極其快樂的事情！不過，云南雖然是野生菌王國，漫山遍野都是菌子，可對于不會采的人，如果沒有當(dāng)?shù)厝水?dāng)向?qū)?，想找到它們，難了！

云南人吃菌子，第一要吃野生的，第二就是要鮮菌鮮吃！空降麗江后，Shine一行人驅(qū)車近4小時才到達(dá)采菌的目的地——怒江傈僳族自治州蘭坪縣通甸鎮(zhèn)德勝村羅古菁自然村一戶普米人家。在這里跟著向?qū)У缴缴喜删?，海?800多米的高原上，氣喘吁吁地來回走了2個多小時，才只看到了一點點香菌，中間還攀巖爬坡的，非常辛苦。所有人都不約而同地感慨，原來采菌子如此不易，賣上天價也應(yīng)該啊。

之所以選擇這里，是因為這里是松茸的產(chǎn)地，每年7月，大山深處到處散發(fā)著菌類成熟、迷人的香氣，隨著他們越爬越高，山路兩側(cè)漸漸出現(xiàn)了誘人的松茸。其實，在日本人將松茸抬高身價之前，云南人并不喜食它，他們更愛的是雞樅等其他菌類。隨著日本人對松茸的熱愛傳播到中國，如今，松茸已是昂貴的食材。日本人對松茸的吃法主要是刺身或炭烤，當(dāng)?shù)厝烁矚g炭烤的味道，最好用松木，慢火烤一下，蘸點海鹽即可。其實，在烤的時候，就能聞到那種深山松林的味道，入口之后味道更濃郁，伴隨著礦物質(zhì)的芳香，有一種瞬間穿越到原始森林的奇妙感覺。

據(jù)向?qū)Ы榻B，采菌是一件很講究天時、地利、人和的事，生長在海拔千米之上的野生菌與森林植被有共生關(guān)系，就拿松茸來說，松茸孢子落地后與林木的根共生，形成呈蘑菇狀輻射分布的菌根，被稱為“菌塘”，這樣的環(huán)境才最適合松茸生長。松茸像是會認(rèn)人似的，遇到不認(rèn)識的人它們會躲起來，你根本就找不到它們。它們有單生的也有群生的，地里隨處都會長松茸，不熟悉地形的人很容易就踩踏破壞了幼菌童茸，所以，當(dāng)?shù)厝嗽诓烧獣r會非常小心，輕輕扒開松葉，慢慢采摘，這樣就能保護(hù)好“菌塘”，來年這個時期在這里或者這個附近還能找到它們。

或許，難尋、脆弱、稀少，這些也是野生菌美味的原因之一吧！

菜梗炒老人頭菌

Deep fried catathelasma with vegetable stem

老人頭菌因體短胖肥碩，菌蓋厚實、菌滿如老壽星的光頭而得名，扎實的口感久炒依然不干不澀。The variety of catathelasma in this dish is called “old man’s head” in Chinese because with a stout and fat body and a thick cap， it looks like the bald head of the legendary God of Longevity.

A fresh encounter with fungus

As a gourmet， wild fungus is no doubt the favorite food material for Shine. Each year， he would join several other food critics to hunt and taste fungus in Yunnan. Nothing could compare to the joy of hunting for your favorite food material in Nature， with a basket in your arms. It is true that Yunnan is abundant with wild fungus， but if you don’t know the tricks or have the help of a local guide， it would be nearly impossible for you to run into any fungus.

Locals make a point to eat fungus that is wild， and freshly picked. After arriving at Lijiang， Shine and her travel companions took a nearly 4-hour drive to get to their destination - a Pumi family at Luogujing clan， Desheng Village， Tongdian Township， Lanping County， Nujiang Lisu Autonomous Prefecture. Led by a guide， they clambered over 2 hours on the 2，800 meter high plateau， only to found a meager amount of fungus. No wonder， they signed with exhaustion， wild fungus is sold at sky high prices.

They choose it here because it is one of the areas that produce matsutake. Every July， you could literally smell the charming fragrance of mature fungus in the mountain ranges. The higher up the mountain， the more matsutake you would find along the trails. However， locals don’t eat matsutake much before the strong demand from Japan drove up its price， but prefer chicken fir and other fungus.

As the passion for matsutake spread from Japan to China， matsutake is now as pricy as gold. The Japanese serve matsutake in sashimi or grill， but Yunnanese favor charcoal grilled matsutake， preferably with pinewood， on mild flame， and served with sea salt. Accompanied with the smell of pine and the flavor of minerals seeped into the fungus， you could feel， at the time of tasting， like being surrounded by the primitive forest.

According to the guide， fungus picking requires the right people at the right time at the right place. Wild fungus has a symbiosis relationship with the plantation over 1，000 meters above sea level. The spore of matsutake， for example， would form a symbiosis relationship with the tree roots， developing a mushroom shaped fungus root， called fungus shiro， which provides the best condition for fungus growth. Quite like human， matsutake only reveal itself to familiar acquaintances. Matsutake grows either independently or in clusters， and could be found everywhere. If you are not familiar of its growing environment， you might incidentally destroy young fungus. The locals are therefore very careful in picking fungus. They would gently remove the leaves before picking in order to protect the shiro， in the hope that they could find new fungus around in the coming year.

Fungus is fragile， rare， and hard to be found， but that might just be one of the reasons that make it delicious.

非主流的云南野生菌吃法

因為喜歡云南，李剛創(chuàng)立了“一坐一忘”餐廳品牌。云南不是他的故鄉(xiāng)，卻是他常常思念的地方。20年前，喜歡畫畫的李剛對中國傳統(tǒng)文化及神秘的少數(shù)民族非常迷戀，于是便來到云南采風(fēng)。第一次來到云南，他便喜喜歡上了那里的少數(shù)民族文化、喜歡那里的山水、人文及當(dāng)?shù)刎S富多彩的美食。

在云南菜的特色食材中，李剛說菌子是最繞不過的。在云南人眼中，“蘑菇”這個字眼似乎和他們的菌子扯不上太大關(guān)系：蘑菇在哪兒都能生長、人工也可種植；而云南只有“菌”，這個“菌”字代表是野生的、獨一無二的。它們埋伏在松針樹下、紅壤山林、馬尾松下，營養(yǎng)豐富，不沾世俗之氣。

李剛第一次吃到野生菌是在怒江州的貢山縣，他吃到的是另一種享譽世界的菌類——松露。這種被稱作餐桌上的鉆石的珍貴食材，在云南并未受到如此禮遇，他們管松露叫“塊菌”，或“豬拱菌”。最初，只有山上發(fā)情的豬才會去吃它。如今，當(dāng)?shù)厝艘仓懒怂陕兜膬r值，但吃法上并沒有太多演繹，當(dāng)?shù)刈畛Ｒ姷木褪撬陕稛蹼u，李剛說：“土雞的濃郁香味與松露相搭倒也般配。只是，國產(chǎn)松露與歐洲松露因為生長環(huán)境的差異，我們吃到的松露并沒有歐洲那種濃郁的香氣，不過想到松露的功效，也算難得的美食了。而且，如此慷慨的，如土豆般的，燉一大鍋的景象估計歐洲人想都不敢想?！?/p>

在李剛心中最令他著迷的是奶漿菌。這種小小的，呈淡棕褐色的菌菇很有個性。用指甲輕輕劃破它的菌蓋，馬上會有像奶漿一樣的液體冒出來。奶漿菌的挑選沒有那么嚴(yán)格，就算菌蓋裂開了味道也一樣濃郁，一般將它切碎了和辣椒、韭菜等放在一起炒，很香很下飯，炒出來的菜也會有奶漿的顏色。

因為要為餐廳采集新鮮的菌，所以李剛也是當(dāng)?shù)厥屑某？?，他說，“在集市第一次看到青頭菌的時候著實被它的顏色嚇了一跳，一度懷疑這種菌菇是有毒的，那種淡淡的青綠色，如果不是身旁的當(dāng)?shù)厝艘辉俑掖_認(rèn)它是可以食用的，我絕對不會將它買回去?！焙苌衿娴氖羌由鲜[和蒜頭爆炒之后，青頭菌的淡青色便不見蹤影，就像是平菇的顏色，口感非常爽滑。青頭菌與云南產(chǎn)的皺皮椒一起炒也非常美味，皺皮椒的清香與菌類的香味剛好相得益彰，炒的時候帶點湯汁，用來拌米飯保證你至少吃兩碗。

這些年來，李剛為了能夠給食客帶來豐富的菌子食材，已經(jīng)記不清楚走過多少個云南村莊，翻過多少座云南的山脈。除了大家普遍認(rèn)識的野生菌羊肚菌、松茸、松露外，他更喜歡那種云南非主流的菌子，例如，去年10月份他走了趟版納，突然發(fā)現(xiàn)當(dāng)?shù)厥a(chǎn)一種紅菌，個頭很大，鮮紅，湯也是鮮紅，叫做大紅菌。另外，在大理有一座海拔2000米的雞足山，當(dāng)?shù)爻鲆环N非常稀缺、昂貴的冷菌，據(jù)說是方丈招待俠客的一道菜。時機合適時，他便會把這種非主流的菌子引進(jìn)到“一坐一忘”與有緣分的食客分享。

Unconventional Way of Eating Yunnan Wild Fungus

Because of his love of Yunnan， Li Gang created In Out. Yunnan is not his home town， but a place he would miss often. 20 years ago， infatuated with traditional Chinese culture and the mysterious ethnic minorities， Li Gang came to Yunnan to find inspirations for his painting. It was love at first sight. During this trip， he fell in love with the mountains， waters， ethnic minority cultures， and the wide variety of food in Yunnan.

Speak of local specialty， fungus would surely come to mind， said Li Gang. In the eyes of locals， mushroom is not the same as their fungus. Mushroom can grow or be cultivated anywhere， but fungus could only be found in Yunnan. The word fungus is synonymous with wild and unique， as it is often found buried under pine leaves in red soil forests， nutritious but detached from the world.

His first taste of wild fungus was in Gongshan County of Nu Jiang Prefecture where he tasted truffle， another world famous fungus. Known as the diamond of food materials， truffle is however not getting its deserved treatment in Yunnan， where it is called “l(fā)ump fungus” or “pig twiddled fungus”， because in the early days， only pigs in heat would eat the commonly fungus.

Today， the locals have learnt of its value， but haven’t developed any new way of cooking. The most common way of making truffle is to cook chicken soup. According to Li Gang， “Free range chicken is a good match for truffle. But due to the difference of growing conditions， domestic truffle is not as fragrant as European truffle. But if we count in its nutrient elements， it is still a delicious food. In addition， the Europeans would never expect to see truffle cooked in such generous quantity like it is in Yunnan.”

But Li Gang’s favorite is a mini-fungus called milky juice fungus. The tiny， light brown fungus has a unique character. Cut its cap open with finger nail， and a milky juice would ooze out. But you do not need to be picky when selecting the fungus. Cut or not， the fungus is equally tasty. Shredded and deep fried with chili and leek， it goes perfectly with steamed rice. Used as an ingredient， it will give a milky color to the dishes.

To purchase fresh fungus for the restaurant， Li Gang is a frequent guest to the local food market. “The first time I saw the green fungus， I was really startled， for a time I thought it must be poisonous， with that light green color. If not reassured by the locals that it is edible， I would definitely not buy it.” What is more amazing is that when deep fried with scallion and garlic， the green color would fade away， and it would look and taste like normal mushroom. It is also very delicious when cooked with Yunnan wrinkled chili， the juice of which could help you eat at least two bowls of rice.

Over the years， Li Gang has presented a wide variety of fungus in his restaurant that is collected from countless Yunnan villages over countless mountain ranges. But apart from the well-known fungus such as yellow fungus， matsutake， and truffle， he is more into non-mainstream fungus. This October， for example， he discovered a red fungus in Xishuangbannan， a fungus that makes red soup， called big red fungus. And in the 2，000 meter Chicken Food Mountain in Dali， he run into a very rare and precious Cold Fungus， which is said to be a dish the Buddhist abbots used to serve to chivalrous swordsman. He told U-Jet that when time is ripe， he would serve this non-conventional fungus in In Out.

離開云南的菌菜

云南人熱衷于吃野生菌，在享受味蕾的快意之外，可能也是一種對故鄉(xiāng)土地的熱愛?！拔覀冊颇先嗣磕甓家煤贸陨弦活D野生菌，不然會覺得這一年就白生活了！“ 和雪環(huán)邊做菜，邊說道。 對于和雪環(huán)來說，吃野生菌，是家常便飯；做菌類菜品，更是最拿手的事情。小時候，他經(jīng)常會吃到各種野生菌。家常做菌的方法很簡單，刀工不用太精細(xì)，不放過多的作料，保持食物原有的味道的同時，還能夠吃出大自然的味道。如今在餐廳掌勺，除了會保持食物天然且原汁原味的味道以外，也會講究刀工和擺盤的精美。

趕上“菌子時節(jié)”時，也是和雪環(huán)給各位食客朋友們一展身手的時候。和雪環(huán)說，“菌子時節(jié)”的野生菌，肉厚肥碩，質(zhì)細(xì)絲白，味道鮮甜香脆?？梢詥瘟蠟椴?，還能與蔬菜、魚肉及各種山珍海味搭配，無論炒、炸、腌、煎、拌、燴、烤、燜，清蒸或做湯，滋味都很鮮。北京的食客最喜歡的菌類是雞樅，松茸，雞油菌……這些野生菌屬于大眾口味，比較能夠接受，比如說：烤松茸，錫紙包裹切片松茸，因為選用的是天然食材的美，所以烤也很清淡。另外還有，鮮桃仁爆野生菌，選用新鮮的雞油菌，搭配青紅椒片，輕勾薄芡，口感屬于香滑明潤，色金黃。

作為地道的云南本土人，和雪環(huán)還對野生菌的益處還相當(dāng)有研究。他說，一般人只想到了野生菌的美味。其實，云南野生菌還含有多種營養(yǎng)成分，和雪環(huán)對健康、美容都有一定的作用。比如說，牛肝菌具有清熱解煩、追風(fēng)散寒、舒筋活血，并有抗感冒的作用；雞樅可以增強人體免疫力，有養(yǎng)血、潤燥、健脾胃等功效；干巴菌含有多種氨基酸、蛋白質(zhì)，營養(yǎng)極為豐富；青頭菌則有明目瀉火、散熱舒氣的作用……即便是離開云南這些功效依然沒有改變，隨著交通的便捷和食客對野生菌的喜愛，在云南之外吃野生菌變得越來越容易了，這是和雪環(huán)最幸福的事。

Fungus Cuisine Outside Yunnan

Yunnan people love wild fungus， not only for palate enjoyment， but also out of love of their motherland. “We will eat a decent wild fungus banquet every year， otherwise we will consider the year wasted.” He Xuehuan said while cooking. To him， eating wild fungus is norm； making fungus cuisine is a thing he is best at. As a kid， he had tasted a lot of wild fungus. The homely way of fungus cooking is simple and requires neither refined cutting techinique nor too much ingredient， but it could keep the original flavor of the food. Now as a chef， he will not only need to preserve the authentic flavor of food materials， but will also present the dishes in an exquisite way.

The “fungus season” is the best and busiest time for He Xuehuan. “Fungus in this season is fleshy， tender， and crunchy. It could make a dish by itself， or be matched with vegetables， fish， meat， and all kinds of wild or sea food. Whether fried， deep fried， cured， mixed， braised， grilled， stewed， steamed， or made into soup， it is always that fresh. Beijing gourmets love chicken fir fungus， matsutake， and chicken oil fungus. Popular dishes include grilled matsutake， which is wrapped in tin foil to preserve its innate flavor， and deep fried wild fungus with peach kernel， which is made of fresh chicken oil fungus， green and red chili， and a light touch of starch， to create a golden color and smooth texture.

As a Yunnan native， He Xuehuan is also knowledgeable about the nutrient elements of wild fungus. Normally the public only care about the flavor of wild fungus， he said， but in fact， Yunnan wild fungus is also rich in nutritious elements that are good for health and skin. For example， boletus could expel cold， mitigate fever， and improve blood circulation； chicken fir fungus could enhance immunity， help blood generation， moisturize your body， and improve stomach and spleen wellness； dry fungus is rich in amino acid and protein； green fungus is good for eye sight and body temperature—all these functions would not disappear even if they are transported elsewhere. He is pleased to see that with today’s developed transportation means， it is getting easier for foodies to taste wild fungus outside of Yunnan.