乘私人飛機玩轉印度半島

平和、平靜、充滿禪意的亞洲風格，東方式休閑主義，是這一次公務機旅行的最大特點。從北京出發，然后到不丹、印度、斯里蘭卡，你只需帶上行李，登上私人飛機就能開始一趟豐富而有趣的旅行。

Grab your bag， get on a business jet， and depart Beijing for a peaceful， tranquil and zenful leisure trip to Bhutan， India and Sri Lanka.

直搗“老虎洞穴”

乘坐公務機前往不丹的帕羅（Paro），途中至少會掠過4座宏偉的山脈，珠穆朗瑪峰，干城章嘉峰，綽莫拉日，和吉楚椎柯雪山。從天空俯視雪域山巒，其壯麗是陸地上難以想象的。飛機降落至帕羅，你的朝圣之旅就此開始。

達桑修道院（Taksang Monastery）——虎穴（Tiger's Nest）是朝圣的第一站。在不丹語中，達桑即老虎洞穴之意，傳說蓮花生大師騎著老虎從西藏到此，而后此地成為蓮花生安置其座騎老虎的處所。虎穴修道院坐落于海拔3000米的山上，你需要2個小時才能到達廟宇。沿途的旅程非常有趣，你可以騎上騾子，搖搖晃晃攀爬在前往修道院的懸崖小路上。當地人總說騾子能讓他們感到安心，它們個頭雖小，卻是一種善于保護自己和騎手的動物。

當你看到虎穴修道院，立刻會被它的壯麗所震撼。它坐落在崖壁邊，面臨萬丈峽谷，金色的屋頂與紅色的屋檐為山谷增添了某種華麗的莊嚴。在過去的數百年中，虎穴修道院曾經歷過火劫，而后屢次修復，予人一種神圣的超脫感。即使待在修道院的崖壁上靜靜地看著山谷，你的內心都會感到無比寧靜。

距離虎穴修道院大約一小時路程之處，有一家奇異的咖啡館。對于多數旅行者，那里也許是他們人生中到達過的海拔最高、地理位置最奇特的咖啡館，而且它建在一座有著400多年歷史的古建筑中。云霧環繞的山巒仿佛呼吸著一般，在這里品一口咖啡，身處一片祥和之中，帶給人的注定是非凡的體驗。

在帕羅，另一個不容錯過的旅行地是距離達桑修道院不遠處的Ugyen Tshomo小鎮。從那里，你可以俯瞰山巒中的虎穴修道院。這時的“虎穴”和身處其中時截然不同，它藏身于層層疊疊的峭壁中，云霧環繞，整個建筑隨著峭壁走勢而起伏，如靜靜盤踞在山中的大蟒。紅色與黃色的寶塔似屋檐交錯層疊，白色的墻面呈梯形，難道這不是《功夫熊貓》與《特種部隊》的場景原型嗎？

Taksang — The Tiger’s Nest

On your way to Paro， Bhutan， your business jet will fly by at least five mountains — the Everest， Kanchenjunga， Chomolhari， Tsrim Gang， and Jichu Drake， where you could marvel at their magnificence in the air. You jet will land at Paro for the first leg of your trip — a pilgrim to the Taksang Palphug Monastery.

Meaning “tiger’s nest” in local language， the monastery is believed to be the cave where Padmasambhava keeps his tiger after riding it all the way from Tibet. A trip from downhill to the monastery， which is 3，000 meters above sea level， takes about two hours. But the dull trip could be fun if you ride a donkey slowly up the steep trail. The animal is a trusted ride for the locals as it is good at protecting itself and its rider.

When you get there， you will be impressed by the spectacular monastery hanging on a precipitous cliff， its golden roofs and red eaves making it holy and solemn. Over the past several hundred years， the monastery has withstood a fire and many rebuilds. In this holy environment， simply looking at the valley by the wall of the monastery could help you calm your mind.

About an hour’s drive away is an unusual coffee shop. Built in a 400-year-old architecture， it is the highest， furthest， and most interestingly located coffee shop most tourists have ever been to. It is evidently an extraordinary experience to take a sip of its coffee in the tranquility of the mountains.

In Paro， another destination you should not miss is a nearby town called Ugyen Tshemo， from where you can overlook the monastery circling around the cliff like a python. The red and yellow eves as seen in pagodas and the terraced white walls look exactly like the setting in Kongfu Panda and G.I. Joe.

去拉賈斯坦邦“吸鴉片”

旅行的意義有很多種，你是否想過旅行也能幫助當地人保護那里的生態和文化？從不丹吃完早餐，登上私人飛機，幾個小時之后，你已經身在印度拉賈斯坦邦（Rajasthan）的阿爾瓦爾（Alwar）。

印度很多遙遠的村落，與現代城市完全脫離，卻為了城市的繁榮做出了巨大的犧牲。在那里，資源被過度開發、文化遭到破壞，村莊的活力也不斷地被輸往大都市。于是很多村落的居民為了保護家園，開始與破壞行為抗爭。在阿爾瓦爾就有這樣一支抗爭的隊伍——水資源勇士（Water Warriors）。他們與政府合作，提出了“生態責任旅行”的方案。這一方案讓游客們住在當地居民家里，感受當地的文化，吃他們親手種植的食物，這樣村落中對傳統文化的維持亦成為一種方式。

在阿爾瓦爾，居民如今依然維持著古老的生活方式，連語言，都與外界有所不同。Dheeraj Sharma家從2009年開始就接待游客，他是極少數懂一點點英語的當地居民，所以總是積極地比手畫腳，向游人介紹當地的情況。在阿爾瓦爾村，牧羊人們每天早上起來都會挨家挨戶收集茶葉、煙葉、鴉片，然后一整天都會在嚴酷的自然環境中畜牧。

如果你欣賞茶道，不妨也欣賞一下阿爾瓦爾的“鴉片道”。Dheeraj Sharma拿出一個小小的鴉片球，然后在一個銅制的碗里搗碎，接著非常謹慎緩慢地加水，仿佛多一滴或少一滴都不行。用濾網將其過濾多次以后，這種被當地人稱做Amal的專門在迎接客人的儀式上制作的飲品就倒進了你的杯子。當然，很多游客并不愿嘗試。不過，這是他們慷慨熱情的禮遇。

與村民們相處，還能知道他們穿戴的意義，比如說紅色的帽子代表他們來自一個叫做Raika的田園牧羊人群落。當牧羊人要遠行時，妻子們會用駱駝毛在他們的腰帶上繡上圖案。在村子里，不同顏色的帽子與裝飾都代表不同的等級，以及是否已婚。當地人只要看一看彼此的穿戴，就能了解對方許多身份信息。這是所有古老文明中共同的等級符號制度，在中國，我們稱之為“禮”。

除了古老的符號文化，你還能欣賞居民如何制作傳統的珠寶和手工制品，繪畫創作；也能在朝陽或者夕陽下騎馬穿過村莊，繞著沙漠欣賞這里獨特的風景；或者品嘗當地充滿古典風情的美食。總之，一切就像回到了數百年前。

Rajasthan — “Drinking Opium”

Travel is meaningful. But has it ever occurred to you that travel could be a way to help locals protect their eco-system and culture？ Depart Bhutan after a breakfast， and within several hours， you will arrive at Alwar， Rajasthan of India， where you will begin a trip with special meaning.

There are many remote villages in India which have contributed to the prosperity of cities at the cost of their resources， culture， and vitality. To preserve their homeland， residents in many villages start to fight against the over-exploitation of the government. Water Warriors is such an organization in Alwar. In cooperation with the government， the organization proposed to promote “ecologically responsible travel” where travelers could live at local villagers’ houses， experience the local culture， and eat what the villagers have grown. In this way， the local residents could preserve their tradition while growing their economy.

The residents in Alwar still leads an ancient lifestyle and speaks a language of its own. Dheeraj Sharma’s family has been receiving tourists since 2009. As one of the very few who could speak a few English， he is always enthusiastic in telling tourists stories of the village， with the help of body language. Every morning， the shepherds of Alwar would go from door to door to collect tea， tobacco and opium for a whole day’s herding in the wild nature.

Nothing is more exciting here than the “Opium Meeting” every morning. Yes， your heard it right， it is opium. Although the government bans opium， as part of the local’s traditional culture， the opium meeting has been preserved. In Alwar， the villagers welcome their most distinguished guests with opium and curry. It will be very rude of you if you turn down their hospitality. If you are a fan of tea ceremony， it will be interesting to watch the “opium ceremony”. Dheeraj Sharma took out a small opium ball， crushed it in a copper bowl， and mixed it with water. After being filtered for several times， the special drink will be poured into your cup as a welcome gift. The drink tastes light-flavored and astringent， but will not make you feel dizzy， as smoking opium would. Nonetheless， it is a very generous way of greeting.

If you get along well with the locals， you may get to understand the meaning of their dresses. For example， a local wearing a red hat means he or she comes from a shepherd tribe called Raika. When a shepherd set out for a long trip， his wive would embroider a pattern on his belt with camel hair. In the village， the colors of different hats and dresses represent different hierarchies and marriage status. With a simple look， the locals would be able to tell a lot of information about each other. All the ancient civilizations have their own symbols of hierarchy. In China， it is referred to as “Rites”.

Apart from ancient symbology， you could watch how locals make traditional jewelries， handicrafts， and paintings， or ride a horse at dawn or dusk to enjoy the unique desert sceneries， or taste classic local food， like what the locals would do several hundred years ago.

旅行中的奢華酒店

不丹——阿曼廷布酒店

阿曼廷布酒店（AmankoraThimpu）是建在山間的一家古典建筑風格賓館，周圍有溪流和叢林環繞。這是一家寺廟模樣的賓館，其中只有16個房間，需要提前預訂。

印度——泰河宮酒店歐貝羅伊阿馬維拉斯酒店

在印度，將歷史上王公貴族的宅邸改造成奢華酒店是一種很普遍的方式，尤其以拉賈斯坦邦的最具特色。在改造后的皇宮酒店中，旅客能享受到皇室餐點、寬闊客房和古董家具等特殊待遇，皮丘拉湖上的泰河宮酒店（Taj Lake Palace） 和阿格拉的歐貝羅伊阿馬維拉斯（Oberoi Amarvilas）酒店，都是主打“皇宮招牌”的佼佼者。

斯里蘭卡——城堡酒店

城堡酒店（The Fortress Hotel）的風格效仿加勒荷蘭城堡，同時又融合現代時尚。該酒店坐落于一個圍墻花園之中，可俯瞰肯克拉（Koggala）海灘，是一家五星級豪華酒店。酒店客房擁有2.1米x 2.1米的大床、私人庭院或陽臺。其中兩個套房還提供24小時管家服務，且帶有私人泳池。酒店擁有斯里蘭卡式茶室、阿育吠陀水療中心、瑜伽館、流動泳池以及提供國際和斯里蘭卡美食的餐廳。

水上的斯里蘭卡

斯里蘭卡被稱為印度洋上的眼淚，也被馬可·波羅稱為最美麗的島嶼，這里美麗的海濱、神秘的古城和豐富的熱帶植物構成了一個古老浪漫的畫卷。飛機降落在斯里蘭卡的科倫坡，稍作停頓，然后大家就登上當地的水上飛機，隨著水花飛揚，飛機在海水上滑翔、起飛，這顆“明珠”將被一覽無余，很快你就會來到神秘莫測的古城加勒（Galle）。這是一個四周被水環繞的國家，而加勒古城擁有大面積的湖泊與河流，是享受水上游覽的仙境。

希亞若（Hiyare）雨林是古城附近一片完全沒有被開發過的原始森林，大部分地方甚至沒有可供步行的道路，所以必須乘船穿越。游覽水上森林讓所有人感到前所未有的愜意，許多游客都選擇這片古老、神秘的水上森林作為自己的婚禮之地，因為在這里，一切如童話般美好，如夢幻般迷人。

在船上有專門的導游介紹這里多種多樣的動植物，比如紫臉猴、綠背樹蜥、豪豬、黑鹿等。同時在附近的肯克拉（Koggala）河上還能看到很多珍稀鳥類。當然，你還能參與到當地的植樹活動中。在斯里蘭卡，人們一直有種樹的傳統，很多名人都在該國種過樹，其中包括周恩來，據導游說總理種的樹現在已是參天大樹。很多游客都愿意在遙遠的加勒（Galle）古城種上一棵屬于自己的樹苗，多年后故地重游時它能賦予時間一縷溫馨感。

在這個水之故鄉，當然還有豐富的水上活動，附近的美蕊沙（Mirissa）港口是進行水上娛樂的黃金港口。在這里，跳水、潛水、沖浪一應俱全。最有趣的莫過于釣魚，10月前后剛好是釣魚的黃金季節，可以釣到超大的2～3歲的老鮭魚，還有大馬哈魚，抱著大魚拍照留念非常有成就感。這里還有專門的非商業用的釣魚區，專供游人釣魚玩樂，釣完以后又將魚放回水中，當地有公司提供專業船只，保證游人的安全。美蕊沙港口最有名的是觀賞鯨魚和海豚。這不是觀賞圈養起來的鯨魚和海豚表演，而是真實的在海中飛躍的鯨魚和海豚。

如果你問一下去過加勒的人，他們都會說最讓他們流連忘返的是這里的海灘。這里的海灘太過美麗，以至于你披著一塊浴巾，帶上裝著啤酒和零食的木桶，在海灘上待一整天，都不會感到空虛和荒廢時間，反而感到無比的充實，這在都市中是絕對不會發生的。

Sri Lanka - A Land of Water

Sri Lanka， “A Teardrop of the Indian Ocean”， is believed to be the most beautiful island by Marco Polo. Its beautiful beaches， mystic ancient cities， and abundant tropic plants come together to form an ancient yet romantic scroll painting. After a short break in Columbo， you can take a water jet to enjoy a bird’s view of the island country. Shortly after， you will arrive at the mysterious city of Calle. Surrounded by water and populated by lakes and rivers， Galle is a wonderland on the water.

Hiyare Rainforest is an untapped primitive forest near the ancient city. As most part of the forest is not accessible to pedestrians， you will have to take a boat through the forest. Many tourists host their weddings in this ancient and mysterious forest on the water because everything is so magical here.

The guide on your boat will tell you about the various animals and plants in the forest， including purple-faced langur， forest lizard， porcupines， and black deer. On the nearby Koggala river you could also find many rare birds. You could also join the local tree planting activities. The Sri Lanka people has a tradition of planing trees. Many a famous individual， including Premiere Zhou Enlai， has planted trees in Sri Lanka. According to the guide， the sapling Premiere Zhou Enlai planted has grown into a towering tree. Many tourists are willing to plant a tree in the remote city of Galle to be revisited in the future.

You could also try the various water sports in this land of water. Mirissha Harbor is the ideal place for water sports including diving and surfing. The most interesting activity here is probably angling. October is the best season for angling. You may be able to catch salmons aging 2 to 3 years. It could also be very satisfying to have a photo taken with the fish you have caught. There is also a free angling area available for tourists to enjoy the fun of the angling and release the fish they catch afterwards. Local companies also provide boats to ensure the safety of tourists. Mirissa Harbor is best known for whale watching and dolphin watching， not in an enclosed area， but out in the open sea.

Ask anyone who has been to Calle before what they miss the most， his or her answer will be the beaches. The beaches of Calle are so beautiful that you can stay there for a whole day with a towel and a bucket of beer and snacks without getting bored—a luxury you could never enjoy in urban life.