消逝的天堂：哈勒哈勒—阿塞倫路上的風光

by Tehran Bureau

Cass 譯

消逝的天堂：哈勒哈勒—阿塞倫路上的風光

A Vanishing Paradise:1)Along Iran’s Khalkhal-2)Asalem Road

by Tehran Bureau

Cass 譯

現代化的發展往往意味著對美麗自然風光以及古老傳統文化的破壞。在伊朗的哈勒哈勒—阿塞倫路上，沿途的美麗風光正在日漸消亡，傳統木屋變成了混凝土房子，美麗的稻田變成了度假村別墅，村民們的生活方式也被迫改變……

1) Khalkhal 哈勒哈勒市，位于伊朗西北部，居民大多是阿塞拜疆族

2) Asalem 阿塞倫市，位于伊朗吉蘭省

On a recent day in Loomavesht, a village up the Khalkal-Asalem road in north Iran’s Gilan province, the men sheer sheep and the women clean the wool. A cool mist fills the air, and soon the cold weather will drive most of the villagers and their livestock down the Alborz mountains to live out the winter. During yehlagh, the old Persian name for the warm season, shepherds live here in small huts set into the rolling slopes like mushrooms, but3)newfangled vacation villas tell of an approaching development boom. Up the hill, the foundations of a concrete compound commissioned by an Isfahan businessman jut out of the ground at right angles.

前不久的一天，在洛瑪夫什—位于伊朗北部吉蘭省的哈勒哈勒—阿塞倫路上的一個村莊，男人們驅趕著羊群，女人們清潔著羊毛。寒霧彌漫在空中，不久，嚴寒的天氣就會把村民們和他們的家畜驅趕下阿爾伯茲山脈，以度過這個冬天。在“耶拉弗”期間—古波斯人們這樣稱呼暖季，牧羊人住在臨時搭建在斜坡上的小棚屋，起起伏伏看起來就像是蘑菇一般，但是新奇的度假別墅預示著另一種繁榮發展的景象即將來臨。就在山上，受一位伊斯法罕商人所托而建造起來的混凝土建筑地基正和地面呈直角狀崛起。

“Show your flms Miss, show them what our village was like before the people of Tehran and Isfahan took over,” a young man tells a flmmaker who has made a series of movies here in the past decade. “Those flms are proof of what this place used to look like.”

“展示一下你的影片，女士，讓他們看看我們村子在德黑蘭人和伊斯法罕人到來之前是什么樣子的，”一個年輕人向一位電影制作人說道，這位電影制作人在過去的十年里拍了一系列影片。“那些影片能證明這個地方以前是什么樣子的。”

Miles from the4)Caspian Sea, Loomavesht is sometimes called “heaven on earth” for its5)bucolic charm. Filmmakers like Ali Mohammad Ghassemi, Mehrdad Oskooie and Mohammad Ali Talebi have worked in the area for the past two decades, and it’s from their work that many heard, for the frst time, of the traditional dress worn by the women of Talesh, of the scenic landscapes of the Khalkhal-Asalem trail. But as improved connections to the capital lure visitors to the area, Loomavesht locals are forced to make space for modernity.

里海幾英里之外，洛瑪夫什因其美麗的田園風光有時會被稱為“天上人間”。諸如阿里·穆罕默德·卡西米、邁赫達德·奧斯庫伊和穆罕默德·阿里·塔勒比等電影制作人在這個地方工作了二十年，也正是從他們的作品里，很多人第一次聽說了塔利什女人所穿的傳統裙飾，聽說了哈勒哈勒—阿塞倫路上的優美風景。