在荻港體驗漁俗文化

●張 科 吳靜梅

?

在荻港體驗漁俗文化

●張 科 吳靜梅

舞龍舞獅舞魚蝦，荻港女子展漁俗。Women in Digang perform a traditional dance of dragon, lion, fish and shrimps.

三月的春風遍吹千年古村，歡樂的歌聲飄蕩在荻港漁莊。

2015年12月，浙江湖州荻港景區成功創建國家4A級景區。荻港自南宋建村以來已有千年歷史，孕育了獨特而又豐富的漁俗文化。前不久，一場以“賞千年農耕文化、品百年非遺美食、慶十年創業歷程”為主題的慶典活動在荻港舉行。

“苕溪漁隱”的故事

荻港漁莊自2006年創建以來，已經走過十個春秋。如今荻港古村因古老的農耕文化和深厚的漁俗文化被評為國家4A級旅游景區。荻港漁莊三期工程已圓滿完成。漁莊占地655畝，集生態、觀光、休閑、旅游、度假于一體。游客去古村桑基魚塘可以領略中國重要農業文化遺產和古村人文歷史的遺跡，盡情品味“苕溪漁隱，荻港美食”的水鄉美景和傳統美食。

荻港地處苕溪之畔，古時就有先民在此以打魚為生。相傳春秋時期越王臥薪嘗膽，滅吳后，范蠡“乃攜西子”，“五湖問道，扁舟歸去”，乘輕舟以游五湖，途經東苕溪的荻港，在此寫下《養魚經》，范蠡乃成為當地淡水魚養殖的鼻祖，他與西施的愛情故事至今還被當地人們所傳頌。

更多的活動涉及養魚、捕魚、祭魚、吃魚、釣魚、唱魚歌、跳魚舞、捉魚賽、做魚菜、漁家樂、放魚燈等，一系列活動匯聚成一場具有原汁原味水鄉特色的漁俗文化盛宴。

舒乙先生筆下最好的江南小鎮—荻港村，傳承著千年的古老生態農業：桑基魚塘。魚桑文化是國家重要農業文化遺產，荻港古來綠桑成蔭、漁塘連片，是江南“桑基魚塘”的典型。村民們有近千年的淡水魚養殖經驗，辛勤勞作，不斷探索，形成了歷史久遠的“桑基魚塘”，即“挖地為塘以養魚，挖塘泥堆成土基，種植桑樹養蠶，蠶糞蠶蛹作為飼料喂魚”的生態循環型農業模式，這一“種桑養魚共榮、生態良性循環”的生產方式，對我國和世界養魚業產生了巨大影響，被聯合國教科文組織和糧農組織授予“桑基魚塘”養魚法。

又到捕魚豐收季了，看漁民們拉著大網開捕啦，魚兒在大網中不停地跳躍，魚躍人歡，那場面可真壯觀。看到捕魚大叔們開心的笑容，不用說又是一個豐收年，趕緊拿出相機抓拍下來，參加攝影大賽去！

徒手捉魚比賽趣味無窮。荻港的“烏金子”是著名的大青魚品牌，凡是參加活動的嘉賓都有機會捉條大青魚帶回家。

“筆道魚情”的展示

到荻港漁莊去，你能在筆道藝術館欣賞“筆道魚情”系列展，這里不僅是中國非物質文化遺產湖筆的展示窗口，更是湖州湖筆傳統文化的研究基地。喜歡寫毛筆字的朋友，可以領悟純羊毛湖筆的妙用。

來荻港的朋友假如有興到禪茶館品一品湖州特色三道茶，就能親身感受湖州的茶文化精髓；到蠶桑絲綢館看一看，置身于傳說中的絲路的發祥之地，仿佛使人看到當年荻港絲綢業的繁榮景象；到漁鄉風俗館逛一逛，可以了解當地的千年漁俗文化、見識一下中國淡水魚品種，感悟當地民風民俗中的千年漁俗文化；若乘興到中國票證館走一走，看看新中國計劃經濟年代的各種票證，那里展示著深深的歷史印痕，能讓人感受到華夏大地翻天覆地的變化。

從筆道館、禪茶館、蠶桑絲綢館、漁鄉風俗館、中國票證館、湖桑茶制作基地，到中央廳觀看歷屆魚文化節及荻港村的錄像片，五大文化展館分別陳列著湖州深厚的地域文化圖照、展品，將湖州“魚米之鄉、絲綢之府、茶禪之源、書畫之郡、湖筆之都”的文化脈絡展示無遺。

陳列在漁鄉風俗館中的婚俗花轎Bride sedans on display in a gallery that shows the lifestyle of fish-farming tradition of Digang

舌尖上的荻港：陳家菜、魚湯飯

如果說“苕溪漁隱”所展現的是荻港養魚、捕魚的悠久歷史和魚文化歷史畫面，那么“荻港美食”則是此次魚文化節的主打項目。國民黨元老陳果夫是個對吃極為講究的湖州人，一向重視飲食文化研究。他的私家大廚燒得一手好菜，其關門徒弟錢榮華大師就是荻港漁莊的主廚。漁莊的陳家菜肴原汁原味，味道鮮美，如老法鱔絲、油炸肉餅、炒魚、狀元球、千張肉圓等都是獨門招牌菜，為品嘗荻港漁莊美食，許多游客專程慕名而來。

此次活動其間不僅有傳統的名菜，還組織了荻港上百位巧婦，匯聚了荻港本地所有的傳統點心，獨具匠心將漁俗文化與美食巧妙結合，大家品嘗了一場趣味濃濃的美食盛宴。

魚樂橋上張燈結彩，百年陳家菜燈謎由你來猜，猜中了可免費品嘗陳家菜、魚湯飯！下午6點左右，“苕溪漁隱，荻港美食”自助魚湯飯正式開始。一只只魚形的大柴灶排列在前，炊煙裊裊，灶上疊著高高的竹蒸籠，漁莊里的廚師正在烹燒各種鮮魚。廣場上擺開了數十張圓桌子，大家一起圍坐吃魚湯飯。至今荻港村家家戶戶還保留著這種漁俗。

荻港漁俗巡游剪影 A traditional parade goes on in Digang.

水鄉婚慶漁家樂

“魚水千年合。”一年一度的水鄉婚慶表演，天長地久道、恩愛廊、同心亭、花船、福祿壽禧四小亭、常青樹、同心鎖、拜堂花廳……老習俗，新出爐，讓更多的年輕人了解中國的傳統婚嫁習俗魅力無窮。荻港漁莊已經成為當地婚宴好去處，越來越多新人在這里舉行婚禮，喜結連理。

在此期間，荻港漁莊的員工通過自編自演的“漁家樂”（用漁民們養魚的工具演奏出歡快、喜慶、動聽的打擊樂），來表現對新人的祝福。舞魚龍、亂打秀表演、舞龍、舞獅等獨特的水鄉文化表演，展示了荻港人豐富多彩的“漁”樂生活。

那些民間戲劇愛好者在漁莊內自由表演，雖是民間草根大眾的自娛自樂活動，卻體現出荻港人對生活的熱愛和荻港漁俗文化的深厚基礎。

魚文化節的歡樂場景A festive scene of the Fish Cultural Festival in Digang

祭拜魚神放魚燈

傍晚時分，漁火被點燃。

每年秋冬之際，怎可少得了江南水鄉漁村的民俗—“祭拜魚神”。各地的節慶、民俗活動中多有祭祀。祭太陽神、月亮神、黃帝、媽祖、大禹等，這些其實都是一種民間崇拜。荻港的祭祀就是民眾表達對魚神的崇拜，對一年豐收的感恩，對來年好年景的祈求。

在桌案上放上豬頭、鯉魚、糕點等祭品，點亮蠟燭插上三炷大香。“一拜，祈禱來年風調雨順；二拜，祝福全天下闔家歡樂；三拜，祈求來年漁業豐收。”祭拜完成后，大家帶著美好的心愿來到魚塘邊放魚燈，祈禱一生幸福、平安、吉祥。

唱漁歌、跳漁舞

荻港的漁歌可是荻港人口口相傳的。

所有的人圍著漁火載歌載舞，人們的激情所映襯出的，是一張張因豐衣足食而幸福滿足的笑靨。夜空下，星光中，我們仿佛看到了一個豐收的新年在等待；笑聲中，歌聲里，我們仿佛看到了幸福的生活正在一步步走來。

歡樂的人群圍著漁火且歌且舞，人們跳起了搖船舞、捉魚舞，唱起優美的水鄉謠：

“船櫓吱呀，微波蕩漾，

一路搖曳一路笑，

搖過春、夏、秋、冬，

搖破滿天星空，

開心的漁民們回來啦！搖起我們的小漁船，

載著我們的豐收魚……”

Traditional Lifestyle Honored in Digang

By Zhang Ke, Wu Jingmei

Digang Fish Resort, a tourism destination in the fish-farming village Digang in Huzhou, a city in northern Zhejiang, was approved as a State 4A scenic zone, in December 2015. In January 2016, the 7th Fish Culture Festival was held at Digang Fish Resort to celebrate the traditional rural lifestyle of one thousand years, to taste local yummy foods of one hundred years and tourism of the last ten years.

Digang Fish Resort was founded in 2006. Over the past ten years, it has gone through three phases of development. The 44-hectare complex of today provides a whole range of amenities where visitors can unwind themselves, doing sightseeing in the well-preserved ancient village, peeping into the traditional lifestyle and the ancient regional agriculture that focused on fish farming and sericulture, tasting the fishthemed cuisine.

Digang is in a region laced with rivers and ponds. The village quietly flourished by maintaining a highly successful mulber-ry-dike-fishpond ecosystem for centuries. The self-sustained system is a local invention: fish ponds are ringed with mulberry trees which provide leaves for silkworms. Excrements of silkworms and silkworm chrysalis are thrown back to fish in the ponds. This fish-farming and sericulture system has shaped a regional lifestyle that can be seen in Digang.

Tourists can take a good look at the ecosystem. On big occasions, villagers throw nets into ponds and catch fish. Such a view is spectacular, exciting and delightful. Photographers, amateurish and professional, come to capture the fishing moments on their cameras.

A well developed one-stop tourism destination, the resort is now home to five venues where different aspects of the local culture are highlighted. One gallery displays Huzhou brush pens, a national intangible cultural heritage, Those who love calligraphy can view a variety of brush pens and even try their hands at writing some short inscriptions such as poems and mottos. The teahouse at the resort provides tea that has everything to do with mulberry. This is indeed a unique cup of tea. Another gallery demonstrates how local people are engaged in sericulture. This gallery offers urbanites a unique view into the mysterious backstage work behind the beauty of silk. No so many people have seen what silkworms look like, how they feed on mulberry leaves and how they wrap themselves up in cocoons. One showroom highlights the local lifestyle of Digang, shaped and colored by fish-farming, sericulture and other regional influences. A museum at the resort shows a great variety of certificates and coupons in Chinese history. Though most visitors may find the museum not completely compatible with the resort, it provides a rare and delightful opportunity for some visitors to look back into their own life and for some visitors to look at a life unknown.

祭拜魚神的場面A scene of a sacrificial ceremony in honor of God of Fish in Digang

However, the most important part of the celebrations was fish dishes. Chen Liguo, a big name in the history of Kuomintang which ruled China for many decades before 1949 and ruled in Taiwan province for decades, was a native of Huzhou. His home was near Digang and his chef was a Digang native. Many fish recipes of Chen’s kitchen have passed down to local chefs. The recipes form the core of the cuisine called Chen Family Cuisine. Qian Ronghua, now the head chef of the fish resort, was the last apprentice coached by the chef who worked for the Chen family.

荻港漁莊文化長廊中的群眾自娛自樂活動Local residents and tourists hang out at the Digang Fish Resort.

The fish cuisine of Digang is so famous that it is the main attraction for visitors. For the celebration, about 100 local housewives were engaged to prepare traditional snack food. On the evening, dozens of tables were put on the public square and people sat down to a big fish banquet. The annual village dinner is still part of the community life.

The celebration climaxed when villagers performed a series of shows. The village has a number of shows to celebrate weddings and harvests. The people at the Fish Resort have created a show of their own which uses all kinds of fish-farming tools.