文/陳焱 圖/鄭嚴
齊長城之青石關
文/陳焱 圖/鄭嚴

○ 這里草木茂盛,空氣清新。There are luxuriant trees and grass, with fresh air.
春秋時期,齊國修筑長城以御魯、楚,修建關隘時,因為此處多青石,故名青石關。青石關地勢險要,東西兩面高山夾峙,南北僅有埡口相通。
如今,青石關位于萊蕪市萊城區青石關村,北鄰博山區白洋河、樵嶺前村交界處。青石關原為齊魯要道的咽喉,現在作為齊長城遺址的青石關,是國家級重點文物保護單位。
在2001年,青石關所在的青石關村被列為國家級歷史文化名村。青石關村隸屬萊城區和莊鄉,位于萊城東北30公里、和莊鄉北6公里處,東、西、北三面與博山搭界,南與關西坡接壤。
青石關建村,始于唐代。唐朝時,人煙厚,行人多,在青石關頂有了一些賣飯的,人們把這里叫作賣飯嶺子。后來有六戶人家在這里立莊,這六戶的姓氏是三孫、二李、一韓,然后又陸續遷來魏、王、焦、于、梁等姓氏。因為這里的青石比較多,古代齊長城的城堡和城墻都是用青石壘建,而且在城堡南關樓上方鑲嵌著“青石關”三個陰刻楷書大字石匾,所以,人們就把村莊命名為了“青石關村”。
青石關村人從古至今皆愛做小買賣。在過去,村里的人們經常去博山擔窯貨到泰安、曲阜、臨沂、蒙陰等地用來換取糧食。改革開放后,人們開始從事加工豆腐行業,主要銷售到博山地區。如今,青石關村已經成為了遠近聞名的豆腐專業村。

○ 刻有“青石關”的石匠額。A stone tablet carved with “Qingshiguan”.
青石關,乃齊魯之要塞也,這里地勢險要,素有“齊魯第一關”之稱,也有“一夫當關,萬夫莫開”之說,歷來為兵家必爭之地。青石關不僅是齊長城的著名關隘,還是聞名遐邇的齊魯故道。既是軍事要塞,又是交通中樞,故設重關鎮守。在清代咸豐年間,曾國藩為鎮壓捻軍曾在此處巡視住宿,原有“曾王所棲處”的石碑,如今住宅雖已破舊但保存完好。

○ 青石關,乃齊魯之要塞。Qingshiguan is a fortress of Qi and Lu.
青石關原為齊魯要道的咽喉。其北有齊國國都臨淄,正處于雙峰對峙之間,中為一線天的谷口之南的制高點上,共長3公里,寬28米,古稱“甕口道”,現稱“關溝”,是夾在群山之間通往青石關門的小路。這條不足幾公里的夾谷(古地名),兩側山峰蒼翠,壁如刀削,其中接近關門處,是關溝最狹窄、最難走的地方。此處兩邊峭壁雄峙,山勢呈“V”字形,最窄處不足兩米,過去只能通行一輛木輪車。如今在關溝北面青石板谷坡上仍留有當年獨輪車的轍溝,深達15至20厘米。據當地老人回憶,當年在此來往的車子排成長隊,若是“鬧了關溝”,交通癱瘓時,誰也不讓誰,往往一等就是好幾天。
青石關原有圍城,共有4個門,門上均有閣樓,如今只剩下北門門洞和殘碑。門內徑寬2.5米,外徑寬9.7米,洞高4米,進深8.5米,洞上石墻厚1.2米。北門洞頂原建有玄帝閣,閣基東西長10.5米,現尚存柱石。在洞口一側立有明代萬歷年間《重修玄帝廟記》的石碑。
南門與北門之間相距100米,門樓上設有炮臺,炮口方向朝向魯地,后來盡被毀壞,如今僅存刻有“青石關”的石匠額鑲嵌于門址東側的學校山墻上。在南門的南邊立有清代嘉慶年間記述鋪筑石板之事的“奕世流芳”石碑。

○ 越來越多的人參加徒步齊長城活動。More and more people take part in the activity of “Hiking along the Great Wall of Qi”.
身在甕盎中,仰看飛鳥渡。
南山北山云,千株萬株樹。
但見山中人,不見山中路。
樵者指以柯,捫蘿自茲去。
勾曲上層霄,馬蹄無穩步。
忽然聞犬吠,煙火數家聚。
挽轡眺來處,茫茫積翠霧。
青石關有著軍事、地理、商旅、建筑等方面的作用,是齊魯古道上著名的關隘,引得無數古代的文人墨客到此觀瞻,留下了許多軼文趣事,演繹出無數動人篇章。其中代表性的詩篇當屬清代文學家蒲松齡所作的這首《青石關》。
除了這些文人墨客有感而作的篇章,青石關這一代還有很多古老的傳說。流傳比較廣的有“陳摶洞”的傳說、“扒錢峪”的傳說、“石門”的傳說、“牛鼻子洞”的傳說等。其中比較有趣的是“陳摶洞”的傳說。
在關溝東邊山崖上有一個山洞,名為“陳摶洞”。傳說此洞通往博山地區的石馬村,后周神仙也就是人稱“睡仙”的陳摶曾在此洞一覺睡了808年,直到“東岳泰山天仙玉女”碧霞元君把他喚醒。據說碧霞元君路過此地時,見陳摶正在睡覺,便問他將睡到何時,陳摶說要睡到太陽曬到屁股。碧霞元君聽后邊笑邊說:“那好,你這懶蟲,跟我走吧。”隨后她拔下頭上的金簪,將洞穿破,讓陽光正好照射到陳摶的屁股上,陳摶只好無奈地跟著碧霞元君走了。直到現在,這一洞口仍然有陽光可以直射進來。

○ 1、青石關是國家級重點文物保護單位。Qingshiguan is the National Key Cultural Relic Protection Unit.

○ 2、青石關附近山上殘留的齊長城墻體。There are verdant mountains and sharp cliffs on both sides of Qingshiguan.

○ 3、青石關兩側山峰蒼翠,壁如刀削。Remnants of the Great Wall of Qi on the mountain nearby Qingshiguan.
In the Spring and Autumn Period,the State of Qi built the Great Wall, and built a pass to defend against Lu and Chu. As there were lots of bluestones, the pass was named Qingshiguan (Bluestone Pass). Now,Qingshiguan is located in Qingshiguan Village, Laicheng District, Laiwu City.
In 2001, Qingshiguan Village where Qingshiguan is located was listed as a National Famous Historical and Cultural Village. The village was built in the Tang Dynasty. Since ancient times, the villagers in Qingshiguan have always liked doing small business. Qingshiguan is a fortress of Qi and Lu. As a place difficult of access, it is known as the“First Pass in Qi and Lu”. Qingshiguan is not only a famous pass of the Great Wall of Qi, but also a well-known old road of Qi and Lu. As both a military fortress and a traffic hub, it was strictly guarded. In the past, Qingshiguan was arranged with a besieged city. There were four gates in total, and each gate was arranged with a loft above. Now,there is only the gateway of North Gate and a broken stele.
THE GREAT WALLOF QI: QINGSHIGUAN