俄羅斯紀行：歷史的豐碑，永恒的紀念

□ 文/田建民 圖/本刊記者 熊怡

俄羅斯紀行：歷史的豐碑，永恒的紀念

□ 文/田建民 圖/本刊記者 熊怡

來到俄羅斯，當我零距離的參觀、游覽關于二戰和列寧為主題的歷史公園和紀念碑，我相信，不管是哪國人，有何信仰，當你徘徊在歷史事件和人物中間，腦海里都會浮現出那些激蕩的歷史瞬間。凡到過俄羅斯的人應該都有一種感受，無論是大都市或小城鎮，隨處可見的就是不同歷史時期的紀念物，并且以圍繞二戰和列寧為主題的居多。

二戰勝利公園（廣場）是莫斯科最大的開放式公園，建于1995年，也是二戰結束50周年的時候。莊嚴肅穆的廣場上，聳立著高達1418米的勝利紀念碑，象征著蘇聯衛國戰的1418個日日夜夜；廣場的地面由2660萬塊大小不一的方磚鋪就，代表著蘇聯在衛國戰爭中2660萬個死難者。勝利公園、戰爭紀念館、巨型雕塑和大型噴泉，每一個設計都能讓人們回憶起那段艱難困苦的歲月。勝利公園既是俄羅斯人民對第二次世界大戰期間衛國戰爭的紀念，又寄托著對和平的祈禱。

莫斯科二戰勝利公園東面的凱旋門。

莫斯科第一次世界大戰英雄紀念碑。

勝利公園的東面，就是莫斯科的凱旋門，無論從藝術的角度，還是從紀念意義上講，莫斯科凱旋門與法國巴黎凱旋門都不相上下，但令人詫異的是，這兩座凱旋門都是為了紀念同一次戰爭而建，這在歷史上也是絕無僅有的。不同的是，后者沒有迎接到拿破侖軍隊的凱旋，卻等來了拿破侖的靈柩通過，也迎來了俄軍元帥庫圖佐夫的凱旋。

走進9.1萬平方米久負盛名的紅場，就如同踏入到了俄羅斯歷史的長河，一幅幅歷史的畫卷似巨大的波濤涌動在我腦海中。蘇聯的紅場閱兵場面浩大，莊重神圣，是那樣的激動人心，特別是1941年11月7日十月革命24周年的閱兵式，更是讓人難以忘懷。德軍的坦克距莫斯科只有25公里，為了鼓舞士兵的士氣，鐵血斯大林毅然決定閱兵，并發表了著名的演講，受閱部隊接受完檢閱后直接開赴前線作戰，擊潰了德軍的進攻，標志著希特勒閃電戰的徹底破產，這也是德軍在二戰中的第一次失敗。紅場的南面是被稱為“一個石頭的神話”的圣瓦西里升天大教堂，色彩艷麗，造型別致，精妙絕倫，是伊凡四世為紀念1554年戰勝喀山汗國而建。教堂前面有一尊青銅塑像，是為紀念1612年打敗波蘭入侵者，收復莫斯科的勝利而建的，兩個抗敵民族英雄是米寧和波扎爾斯基，其中的米寧來自諾夫哥羅德，是我國山東淄博友好城市。紅場的西側是著名的列寧墓，外面鑲嵌著貴重的大理石，黑色、灰色的拉長石、深紅色的花崗石和云斑石，色調肅穆、凝重。沿著黑色大理石臺階走到悼念大廳，就能看到列寧安詳地躺在鋪有紅色黨旗和國旗的水晶棺內，身穿黃色上衣，胸前佩戴一枚紅旗勛章，臉和手都由特制的燈光照著，清晰而安詳。列寧墓的后面有斯大林、勃列日涅夫、安德羅波夫等12位前蘇聯政治家的墓碑。紅場的北面是歷史博物館，門前的超意識形態軍事天才朱可夫元帥立馬遠望的雕像，給每一位游客都留下深深地印象。

莫斯科勝利女神紀念碑。

克里姆林宮紅墻外的亞歷山大花園，有著名的無名烈士墓。正面朝北、東西走向的深紅色大理石陵墓上鐫刻著：“你的名字無人知曉，你的功績永遠長存”，稍靠西側陳設著鋼盔和軍旗的青銅雕塑，造型簡潔明快，蘊意肅穆深長。墓前有一個凸型五星狀的火炬，五星中央噴出的火焰，從1967年建成時一直燃燒，從未熄滅，它象征著烈士的精神永遠光照人間。

在彼得一世締造的圣彼得堡，既能看涅瓦河畔停泊“十月革命一聲炮響，給我們送來了馬克思主義”的“阿芙樂爾”號巡洋艦；十月革命攻占冬宮的紀念館；斯莫爾尼宮前面草坪上聳立的馬克思、恩格斯的雕像。還能看到十二月黨人廣場，彼得大帝的銅像；伊薩基耶夫大廣場和尼古拉一世雕塑；皇村的天才詩人普希金的銅像。諾夫哥羅德州府廣場上列寧的銅像；伊爾庫茨克的列寧街和凱旋門；州府廣場上的34塊二戰烈士櫥窗和無名烈士紀念墓那不滅的圣火……

國防大學金一南將軍曾跟我聊起一個故事，在中俄邊界黑瞎子島，駐守的邊防團長告訴他，江對岸的城市有一個無名烈士墓。每年都有許多老人、青年和孩子去祭拜這無名烈士的墓碑?，F在俄羅斯的青年結婚時，必定要到無名烈士墓前獻花，這已經成了俄羅斯婚禮的標準流程了。這體現了俄羅斯“戰斗民族”的精神和對先烈為他們今天爭取來的和平表示感恩。俄羅斯這樣的民族內核和精神內涵來源于對歷史的尊重和英雄的崇尚，來源于正能量書本教育，來源于有形的紀念物，耳濡目染，外化于形，內化于心，來源于世代相傳的精神家園。一個民族沒有歷史是可悲的，沒有英雄是可憐的。

圣彼得堡“十二月黨人廣場”的彼得大帝銅像。

歷史是一面鏡子，它不僅照亮現實，也照亮未來。把歷史變為我們自己的，我們遂從歷史進入了永恒。就如同習近平總書記所說：“一個有希望的民族不能沒有英雄，一個有前途的國家不能沒有先鋒。包括抗戰英雄在內的一切民族英雄，都是民族的脊梁，他們的事跡和精神都是激勵我們前進的強大力量?！?/p>

（本文作者單位：山東省淄博市外事僑務辦公室）

克里姆林宮紅墻外的亞歷山大花園

When I came to Russia for a visit of its historic parks and monuments devoted to World War II and Lenin in zero distance, I believed that people, regardless of where they live and whatever religion they may belong to wouldl conjure up images of those exciting historical moments when hovering between the historical events and figures. People who have already been to Russia should get the feeling that it is ubiquitous to see monuments of different historical periods in both metropolis and small towns. Most of those monuments are on the theme of World War II and Lenin.

Moscow Victory Park (Square), the biggest open park in Moscow, was built in 1995, marking the 50th anniversary to memory the end of World War II. Towering aloft on the square, the Victory Monument is 1,418 meters high which represents the 1418 days and nights inthe Soviet Patriotic War. And the ground is paved by 26.6 million square bricks with varying shape. Each brick represents one people who died for their country in that war. Every design in Victory Park, War Memorial, giant sculpture and large fountain reconnects people with the years of diffi culties and hardships. This park is built for the commemoration of patriotic war during the World War II and entrusted with the prayer for peace by Russians.

The Moscow’s triumphal arch locates in the east of the Victory Park. This triumphal arch is almost equal to Triumphal Arch in Paris in both artistic terms and commemorative significance. But surprisingly, these two triumphal arches are both erected to commemorate the same war, which is unique in history. Unlike the Moscow’s one, Triumphal Arch in Paris did not wait the triumph of Napoleon army instead of the coffi n of this general and it also saw the victory of Kutuzov, the Russian Marshal in the time of Russian Empire.

I walked into the prestigious Red Square, which covers 91,000 square meters just like stepping into the long stream of Russian history and my mind was fulfilled by historical pictures like huge waves. Red Square parade during the Soviet era was famous for its vast scene, seriousness and holiness as well as excitement. The military parade of the 24th anniversary of October Revolution on November 7, 1941 was especially unforgettable. On that day, German tanks were just 25 kilometers away from Moscow while Stalin eventually decided to parade in order to encourage soldiers’ morale and also made a famous speech. After accepting the review, those troops under review directed to the front, finally defeating the German attack. This campaign represented the complete bankruptcy of Blitz and also the fi rst defeat of Germany in World War II. On the south of the Red Square, Saint Basil’s Cathedral, described as “the myth of a stone”, was built for the memory of conquering the Khanate of Kazan by Ivan IV of Russia in 1554. This cathedral boasts colorful exterior, unique style and exquisite design. In front of this cathedral, there is a bronze statue which was built for the memory of victory of Poland invaders and reoccupying of Moscow in 1612. Two national heroes came to the fore in this campaign: Tamminen and Pozharski. And the former was from Novgorod, a friendly city to Zibo, Shangdong province in China. On the west of the Red Square, Lenin’s Grave, set on the exterior with precious marble, black, grey labradorite, deep red granite and porphyry stone, shows a solemn and dignified tone. Following the black marble steps to the Memorial Hall, Lenin lies on the crystal sarcophagus paved with red party flag and Russian flag, wore a yellow suit with an Orden Krasnogo Znameni on his chest. His face and hands are illuminated by special lights, which look clear and serene. Behind the Lenin’s Grave, there are 12 tombstones of the former Soviet statesman like Stalin, Brezhnev, and Andropov. On the north of the Red Square, there is the History Museum with a statue of Georgi Konstantinovich Zhukov. The statue of this super ideological military genius gazed into the distance on his horse, which leaves a deep impressionon visitors.

The famous Tomb of Unknown Soldier just hides in the Alexander Garden outsides the red walls of the Kremlin. On this deep red marble tomb which runs from east to west and faces the north, the sentence “Nobody knows your name but your contributions will be known forever” was carved. On its west side, there are some bronze sculptures of helmets and fl ags. Such concise design contains rich connotations. A fi ve-star torch in convex shape with fi re in the center of that fi ve stars stands in the front of that tomb. And this fi re has been firing since the completion in 1967, which represents the spirit of martyrs will shine forever.

From the perspective of St. Petersburg built by Peter I of Russia, people can catch the vision of “Aurora”cruiser, which gives us Marxism-moored on the shore of Neva, and also can see the Memorial Museum of occupying of the Winter Palace in the October Revolution (1917) and the statues of Marx and Engels standing on the front lawn of the Smolny Palace. Visitors also can catch the Decembrists Square, St.Isaac’s Cathedral and statues of Peter the Great, Nicholas I of Russia; Pushkin, a poet of genius in tsarskoye selo. The statue of Lenin in Novgorod City Square; Lenin street and Triumphal Arch in Irkutsk; 34 WWII Martyrs showcases and eternal fl ame of Tomb of Unknown Soldier in State Plaza.

A story told by General Jin Yinan from National Defense University said that there is a Tomb of Unknown Soldier in the city on the other side of the river, which also was said by a frontier Commander of Heixiazi Island in the Sino-Russia border. Every year, many old people, teenagers and children will come to pray at the tomb of the unknown soldiers. It is the standard process of Russian wedding to lay fl owers on the tomb of the unknown soldiers when the young get married in Russia. This kind of action not only shows the spirit of “fighting nation” in Russia but also their thanksgiving for those martyrs’ sacrifi ces. The national essence and spiritual connotation of Russia are derived from the respect for history and adoration of heroes, book education of positive energy, tangible memento and spiritual home from generation to generation. It is sad that a nation without history is pathetic, a nation without hero is lamentable.

History is a mirror which both illuminates the reality and the future. We can come into eternity from the history by changing the history into our own. As the President Xi said, “A hopeful nation cannot be without heroes and a promising country cannot be without pioneers. All national heroes including the anti-war heroes honor the backbone of the nation and their deeds and spirits are the powerful force to encourage us to keep on. ”

（Author’s affi liation: Foreign and Overseas Chinese Affairs Offi ce of Zibo, Shangdong Province)

Travel Notes of Russia: The Monument of History and the Eternal Memory

□ Article/ Tian Jianmin Pictures/Journalist Xiong Yi