巴塞爾，奢華是什么顏色？

巴塞爾，奢華是什么顏色？

今年的巴塞爾鐘表珠寶博覽會，比往年多了一絲生動，一抹色彩。或許標志著古老高端的鐘表界，也在微妙而曖昧地轉向新人群。

It is more vivid and more colourful in Baselworld this year. Maybe it also implies that the traditional high-end watch industry is heading in a new direction.

Metallic Blue

Blue is normally regarded as a cool tone. However, in the latest watch designs, blue is blended with the solidity and hard quality of other metals and materials and shows more sense of profoundness and stableness. Different designers choose different shades of blue. Blancpain, for example adapts the classic deep sea blue with popular minimalist dial design, rendering a touch of cool elegancy and mystery. Chopard's new sapphire blue watch uses all blue on its dial, case and strap. The piercing coldness emits from all parts of the watch. The most special one would be the brand new Big Bang Unico designed by Hublot, which is made of transparent sapphire crystal. The wild and sheer design gives a total dynamism. There are also a lot of blue designs in the details. Perhaps this will be more attractive to more watch fans. The Persian blue in new Rolex Cellini Moonphase, the colour of which was then widely used in tempera paintings, is sparkling and shining in Baselworld. The light blue tiny pointers used in Glashütter Originals' new Senator collection renders more liveliness. OMEGA sets out to create a combination GMT and divers' watch fashioned from a single block of blue ceramic. "Big Blue" is driven by the OMEGA Master Chronometer calibre 8906, the water resistance can be down to 600 metres.

Sporty Green

The various changes in functions are also praised by many watch fans, especially some new technologies adapted to feed the needs of sports lovers. In Baselworld, many designers are following this trend. Tag Heuer, who has been closely related to the Olympics since 1920, designed the famous timepiece Autavia. It was the first chronograph that was equipped with a rotating bezel and was once the very first choice of athletes. Now it is matched with a new simple but sporty leather strap to easily match more daily outfits. The Aquaracer collection released its new camouflage versions. This new Aquaracer camouflage has a 300 metre water resistance, polished with black PVD titanium grade 2 sand blasted case to intensify its transparency to protect it from the elements. This timepiece has a titanium grade 2 black PVD sand blasted 60 minute scale, which is the best choice when being under severe environments. The timepiece designed by Certina to warm up in Baselworld is a 1/10 Chronograph with a NATO strap. The NATO strap has been majored in the industry for a long time, but Certina this time uses red and black to give a more classy feel. Cosmic green is the latest colour to be added to the H. Moser & Cie. collection. This audacious green, reminiscent of the jewel tones of the Northern Lights, continues in the spirit of the famed Funky Blue dial which has become the brand's signature. This 44 mm diameter's timepiece has a dial with no logo and features but only 4 main indices, which has proven the authenticity and simplicity of the brand.

金屬藍

藍色向來被看作“冷色調”，不過，在鐘表設計中，藍色融合了各種金屬和其他材質的硬度和質感，會呈現出深邃而沉穩的觀感。而不同品牌在藍色的選擇中也不盡相同，Blancpain運用的經典深海藍表盤迎合時下極簡的盤面設計，大氣高冷又有神秘之態。Chopard的寶石藍主題的設計，同時運用在表面和表帶上，凜冽之勢淋漓盡致。最特別的還有宇舶全新Big Bang Unico的透明寶石藍設計，采用寶石藍晶體打造，通透的設計不乏藍色呈現的動感。除了一些大面積的藍，細節方面的藍色點綴或許會更受表迷的青睞——勞力士的切里尼月相大有古典油畫中“波斯藍”之亮麗和清澈；格拉蘇蒂的熒光藍刻度和指針讓Senator系列更具年輕態活力。歐米茄更再次采用整塊藍色陶瓷打造全新腕表，創造出一款集GMT與潛水功能于一體的 “碧海之藍”腕表，防水深度600米。

運動綠

功能上的變化多樣也是很多表迷的追求，特別是一些結合運動需求的設計。在本屆展會上，很多品牌的新品也將設計指向這種趨勢。從1920年起就與奧林匹克運動會結緣的Tag Heuer，它的Autavia系列是首款配備旋轉表圈的計時碼表，曾一度是賽車手的摯愛。配以運動而簡約的皮質表帶，也可以融入各種日常的穿搭。而Aquaracer競潛系列腕表展現了迷彩“敢死隊”風格。全新競潛系列Camouflage越野腕表防水深度達300米，表殼覆有黑色PVD涂層，采用噴砂2級鈦金屬打造，強化其隱形效果，避免吸引敵人視線。表圈帶有分鐘刻度(前15分鐘標示每一分鐘的刻度)，以耐刮的黑色霧面陶瓷打造，是身處惡劣環境下的不二之選。雪鐵納為大家準備的2017 Basel暖場款是搭配NATO表帶的雪鐵納1/10秒計時碼表。NATO表帶已經風靡市場很久，雪鐵納在配色上選用了紅黑款，相當經典。亨利慕時冒險者小秒針XL PURITY腕表最新色系——宇宙綠，標新立異的綠色令人不禁想起北極光寶石般的絢爛麗色，繼續傳承了“電光藍”表盤的精髓。直徑43毫米的表盤沒有品牌標識，只有4個主要時標，極具特色，倡導返璞歸真。

BASELWORLD,THE COLOUR OF LUXURY

Text &Translation by Bian Jiajin Photos by CFP&Baselworld