布拉諾：驚艷了時(shí)光的彩色小島

Victoria+Boyd

在距意大利水城威尼斯七公里的地方坐落著一座小島——布拉諾，它以五彩斑斕的房屋聞名于世，看上去仿佛是一個(gè)充滿生機(jī)的童話世界。它也是一座水城，但卻不似威尼斯那般喧鬧，在這里，歲月靜好，一切都是那樣簡(jiǎn)單、詩(shī)意而美好……

Let the soft winds of the Adriatic Sea1） blow through your hair aboard a ferry2） from Venice to Burano. Feel the stress of the modern world fade away as you sail towards the peaceful fishing village permanently caught in the 19th century.

Located in the Venetian3） lagoons4） and famous for its long stretches of brightly painted houses， Burano is a small archipelago5） of four islands divided by narrow canals and linked by stone bridges.

Burano resembles a patchwork6） of colors sewn together by the threads of dark green canals. Bright flowers bloom in window boxes， fresh laundry blows in the breeze， small boats dot the canals， and sweet smells of freshly baked pastries float through the air. The village is postcard perfect， and is certainly the most peaceful place for an afternoon getaway from busy Venice.

The reasons behind Burano&apos；s famous rainbow of houses remain a mystery. Some say the houses were painted so that fisherman could see the island in the distance as they returned after a long day at sea. Others say that families used to paint their homes to mark where their property ended and their neighbor&apos；s began. In any case， the tradition remained. Today， homeowners who wish to paint their house must send a request to the government， who respond by giving notice of the specific colors permitted for that area.

The Art of Lacemaking

Burano rose to importance in the 16th century， when women on the island began producing and exporting handmade lace. Historically， each woman specialized in a single stitch7）， so each piece was passed from woman to woman until it was finally ready to be sold to Europe&apos；s aristocratic8） elite9）.

Learn more about the island&apos；s detailed history with this delicate art by visiting the Lace Museum located in the historic Podestà of Torcello Palace in Galuppi Square. The small two-story museum offers impressive displays of invaluable lace products and showcases the history of the art， from its origins in the 16th century to contemporary methods and styles.

If you don&apos；t have time to visit the museum， stroll along Galuppi Street until you reach the center of the island， Galuppi Square. Neighborly10） women welcome you into their shops to watch as they delicately weave the intricate11） patterns of an art passed down through the generations.

乘上威尼斯開往布拉諾的擺渡船，讓亞得里亞海的微風(fēng)拂過(guò)你的發(fā)絲。隨著船兒駛向這個(gè)永遠(yuǎn)停留在19世紀(jì)的寧?kù)o漁村，感受那現(xiàn)代世界的壓力逐漸消散。

布拉諾位于威尼斯的 湖群中，因其一長(zhǎng)片一長(zhǎng)片被涂上絢麗色彩的房屋而聞名。它是一個(gè)由四座島組成的小群島，島與島之間都被狹長(zhǎng)的河道相隔，并由座座石橋相連。

布拉諾就像是一塊色彩斑斕的拼布，而條條深綠色的河道正是色塊間的縫合線。艷麗的花兒在窗檻的花箱中盛開，剛洗好的衣物在微風(fēng)中輕擺，河道上布滿了小船，空氣中飄著剛出爐的糕點(diǎn)的甜香。這個(gè)小鎮(zhèn)如同明信片一般完美，若你想逃離繁忙的威尼斯去度過(guò)一個(gè)下午，這里絕對(duì)是最為寧?kù)o的去處。

布拉諾彩虹般絢麗的房屋十分有名，但其由來(lái)仍然是個(gè)謎。有人說(shuō)島上的居民將房屋刷上顏色，這樣出海打了一天魚的漁民歸來(lái)時(shí)遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)地就能看到這座小島。也有人說(shuō)島上的人家以前給房屋涂色，是為了標(biāo)清和鄰居房產(chǎn)的邊界。不論起因?yàn)楹危@一傳統(tǒng)都留了下來(lái)。今天，屋主若想給房屋刷上顏色，必須向政府遞交一份申請(qǐng)，政府回復(fù)時(shí)會(huì)告知屋主該區(qū)域可以用哪些特定的顏色來(lái)粉刷。

欣賞蕾絲手藝

16世紀(jì)時(shí)，布拉諾的地位變得重要起來(lái)，從那時(shí)起，島上的女人開始生產(chǎn)并出口手工編織的蕾絲。據(jù)歷史記載，每個(gè)女人都專攻一種針法，因此每一件蕾絲制品都是從一個(gè)女人傳到另一個(gè)女人的手中來(lái)織，直至織好可以賣給歐洲的貴族人士。

想要了解更多關(guān)于島上這一精美手藝的詳細(xì)歷史，你可以去參觀位于加盧皮廣場(chǎng)古老的托切羅波德斯塔宮里的蕾絲博物館。這座兩層樓的小博物館陳列著十分珍貴的蕾絲產(chǎn)品，令人印象深刻；它還展現(xiàn)了這一手藝的發(fā)展歷史，從其16世紀(jì)的起步到現(xiàn)代的各種織法和風(fēng)格。

如果你沒有時(shí)間參觀博物館，那可以沿著加盧皮大街漫步，一直走到小島的中心——加盧皮廣場(chǎng)。在那里，友好的女人會(huì)歡迎你光顧她們的店鋪，觀看她們精心編織蕾絲這一代代相傳的手藝的各種復(fù)雜圖案。

People-watching in the Village Square

Continue your stroll up Galuppi Street and find yourself surrounded by the typical array12） of tourist shops you thought you abandoned in Venice. Grab a table at one of the many bars scattered along the cobblestone13） road and sip a glass of vino14） while people-watching.

On Wednesday mornings， Galuppi Street transforms into a vibrant open-air market. Wander through the stalls15）， chat with locals， and discover the sights and smells of a typical Venetian fishing village： warm bread， baked treats， creamy cheeses， and of course， plenty of freshly caught fish and shellfish.

A True Fisherman&apos；s Island

Although there are a few touristy areas in Burano， the island still exudes16） that authentic17） fishing village atmosphere that can be hard to find in Venice. Fishermen return to their brightly colored homes at dusk with their daily catch， local women tend to their flower boxes as children play along the canals below， elderly Italians gather to chat in the main square as the cheerful village18） buzzes around19） them.

As the world beyond this tiny Venetian lagoon continues to move faster and faster， the traditional Buranese lifestyle struggles to remain afloat20）. Some advice： Go now.

看看人來(lái)人往

繼續(xù)沿著加盧皮大街漫步，你會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)周圍到處都是典型的旅游商店，而你本以為它們已經(jīng)被你拋在威尼斯了。在這條鵝卵石鋪就的大街兩側(cè)散落著許多家酒吧，隨便進(jìn)去一家，找張桌子坐下，來(lái)上一杯，你就可以一邊細(xì)品葡萄酒，一邊看人來(lái)人往。

每周三上午，加盧皮大街都會(huì)變成一個(gè)熱鬧的露天市場(chǎng)。你可以在小攤之間閑逛，與當(dāng)?shù)厝肆奶欤剿饕粋€(gè)典型的威尼斯?jié)O村的風(fēng)景和味道：熱乎乎的面包、烤制的美食、絲滑般的奶酪，當(dāng)然啦，還有好多剛捕來(lái)的海魚和海貝。

感受純正漁島風(fēng)情

雖然布拉諾有那么幾個(gè)景區(qū)，但這座小島仍然散發(fā)出在威尼斯很難找到的那種純正的漁村氛圍。漁夫們?cè)诎韼е@一天的收獲回到色彩鮮艷的家，當(dāng)?shù)氐呐藗兇蚶碇约旱幕ㄏ洌⒆觽儎t在下面的河道邊玩耍；上了年紀(jì)的意大利人聚在主廣場(chǎng)上聊著天，樂呵呵的村民們則在他們四周忙活著。

隨著這個(gè)威尼斯 湖以外的世界繼續(xù)運(yùn)轉(zhuǎn)得越來(lái)越快，布拉諾的傳統(tǒng)生活方式勉強(qiáng)維系著。給你一點(diǎn)建議：要去現(xiàn)在就去！

1. Adriatic Sea： 亞得里亞海（地中海的一個(gè)大海灣，位于亞平寧半島和巴爾干半島之間）

2. ferry [?feri] n. 渡船；擺渡（船）

3. Venetian [v??ni??n] adj. 威尼斯的；威尼斯風(fēng)格的

4. lagoon [l??ɡu?n] n. 湖；環(huán)礁湖

5. archipelago [?ɑ?k??pel?ɡ??] n. 群島

6. patchwork [?p?t?w??k] n. （由各種顏色或形狀的許多小塊織物拼縫而成的）拼縫物；拼布工藝

7. stitch [st?t?] n. 針法；編織法

8. aristocratic [??r?st??kr?t?k] adj. 貴族的

9. elite [e??li?t] n. 上層人士；社會(huì)精英

10. neighborly [?ne?b?li] adj. 友好的；樂于助人的

11. intricate [??ntr?k?t] adj. 復(fù)雜精細(xì)的；錯(cuò)綜復(fù)雜的

12. array [??re?] n. 大量；大堆

13. cobblestone [?k?blst??n] n. 小圓石；鵝卵石

14. vino [?vi?n??] n. （西班牙或意大利）葡萄酒

15. stall [st??l] n. （商場(chǎng)或集市上的）貨攤，攤位

16. exude [?ɡ?zju?d] vt. 充分顯露（某種品質(zhì)）

17. authentic [???θent?k] adj. 正宗的，原汁原味的

18. village [?v?l?d?] n. 鄉(xiāng)村居民；村民

19. buzz around： （忙得）團(tuán)團(tuán)轉(zhuǎn)

20. afloat [??fl??t] adj. （在經(jīng)濟(jì)上）應(yīng)付自如的