臨安花千谷：山水深處有茶家

陶悅清

花千谷，是一處民宿，在太湖水系源頭臨安太湖源鎮。

從地圖上看，太湖源鎮面貌恰似一片綠葉。妙的是，那里的天目山麓恰好遍布野茶，日夜被潔凈的山風、霧氣所滋潤。

獨得天然佳境的山里人，想到了要將農家樂作為自己的營生，花千谷，就這樣自在生長出了山野茶莊園的清新模樣。

“大姚”來了

2007年，姚明、葉莉夫婦慕名來到太湖源拍攝婚紗照。小鎮一時沸騰，登上了不少媒體的版面。彼時，李明強正在太湖源太子廟村的路邊為自己的特產店打地基。

“六輛房車從路邊開過，姚明就坐在里面。”說起多年前與“大姚”近距離的一次接觸，他告訴筆者：至今難忘。

名人帶來的明星效應，為太湖源鎮迅速拓展了知名度，加上當地本就有太湖源景區、神龍川、東天目山等景點資源，很快引來游人如織。

李明強原本計劃和妻子單宗霞在路邊店面里出售些本地的臨安“三寶”：筍干、茶葉、山核桃，做個小營生足矣。但夫妻倆漸漸感到，外來游客多了，除了臨走時帶些土特產離開，累了，也想在這山間歇歇腳。“不如轉型做農家樂吧。”李明強冒出了這個念頭。

幾乎同時，當地人也在那時開始悄然興辦農家樂。小日子得益于一方山水而紅火熱鬧。

李明強夫妻為自己經營的農家樂取名“花千谷”，十分貼切——位置在峽谷一側的坡地上，坡地下流淌著一條常年不息、清澈見底的小溪；峽谷的另一側是青山連綿、山花爛漫，偶有野茶樹散布。

有山有水，有茶，有人家。居住在這樣的環境中，主人、客人都滿意。

臺灣女設計師的二度改造

如今的花千谷，已由最初的農家樂轉型為民宿。在當地眾多的農家樂中，它宛若一朵秀麗小花，燦爛明媚。

而這，又要從一次偶然說起。

2014年，一位來自臺灣的女客人入住花千谷。李明強與單宗霞的熱情、淳樸，讓外鄉人一下子找到了回家的舒適與自然。這位女客人是設計師，她以職業的敏感，看到了這對夫妻經營民宿的可能性。

當時的花千谷是簡單的農家樂。女設計師告訴李明強夫妻，既然做得這么辛苦，不如改造成民宿，多些設計感，提高收入，“我愿意免費幫忙”。

于是，在當地農家樂遍地開花的時候，李明強率先吃起了民宿的“螃蟹”。

在設計師的提議下，改造花千谷的材料大多就地取材，以此來原汁原味地體現當地的山鄉風味。其時正好碰上村里“三改一拆”，李明強拉回一車車的廢棄家用。農居老木頭成了民宿的房梁與天花板；客房的衣櫥是由農家的碗櫥改造而來；衛生間的洗手池更具創意，是由原先喂豬的石槽改造而來……

硬件有了，夫妻倆也懂得“人情味”的重要性。民宿的核心魅力來自于民宿主人的情調。走進民宿，若是讓客人產生“同在一個屋檐下生活”的歸屬感，便是成功。于是，花千谷的兩位“谷主”有了這樣的生活設計：春天炒茶挖筍，夏天避暑戲水，秋天摘果釀酒，冬天圍爐賞雪。單宗霞對筆者說：“你可以靜坐在溪邊垂釣，也可以挽起褲腳蹚水進河里捉魚，總之，讓人能夠很容易融入太湖源的生活里。”

山居茶莊園

茶，是筆者在花千谷遇見的“佳人”。

天目青頂（又稱天目云霧茶），產于東天目山的太子廟、龍須庵、溪里、小嶺坑、朱家村及森羅坪一帶。天目山山高林密，終年云霧籠罩，茶樹多分布在自然良好的山塢中，生長環境得天獨厚，所產之茶在1200年前的唐代已很有名，經久不廢，是色、香、味俱全的茶中佳品。

茶與民宿的融合，讓花千谷漸漸有了山居茶莊園的模樣——

以茶會友。一樓公共區域設置有茶座，客來奉茶。也有講究的愛茶人自帶好茶，在這里毫不吝嗇地與來自天南海北的旅人一同分享。

以茶入菜。常常下廚的李明強夫妻琢磨了一桌茶宴：茶水煮白切雞、龍井蝦仁、茶青炒雞蛋、大紅袍鹵鴨、云霧（茶）牛肉……

以茶為禮。茶以及與茶相關聯的土特產品，都被夫妻倆提上了計劃日程。這些茶禮，今后都將以“花千谷茶葉”為品牌，成為入住客人的伴手禮。

2017年3月，全國20多位民宿主集聚花千谷，展開了一次圍繞特色民宿的體驗與討論。他們在春天的細雨中去周邊茶園采茶，回來將茶青入鍋炒制，滿室生香；晚上，大家圍桌而坐，一同品茗，共話茶與民宿、茶與茶農人家的融合發展。

從“柴米油鹽醬醋茶”的世俗煙火，到“琴棋書畫詩酒花（今人或改‘茶）”的詩情快意，這種種，均隨一盞茶香飄進了民宿的平凡日子里。

（除署名外，本文照片由作者提供）

An Idyllic Haven： Huaqiangu， Linan

By Tao Yueqing

Set against undulating tea plantations at the foot of the Tianmu Mountain where only the smoke betrays where the dwelling lies， the lovely town of Taihuyuan， looking like a leaf on the map， is the place chosen by Chinas most famous basketball player and his wife for wedding photography in 2007. For city dwellers getting tired of the concrete jungle， the town is an ethereal utopia where the dream of an ideal existence in harmony with nature comes true.endprint

“Six motor coaches passed by， and I knew Yao Ming and his beautiful bride were sitting in one of them，” Li Mingqiang， who runs a B&B place called ‘Huaqiangu in the town， recalled with excitement.

As a result of the celebrity effect and the towns close proximity to such famous scenic spots as Shennongchuan and Taihuyuan， tourists poured into the town for its unspoiled wilderness of great beauty and to follow the romantic footsteps of “Chinas tallest couple”， triggering a country tourism boom and a sudden proliferation of new attractions and accommodations run by the locals.

“I realized it was a now-and-never chance to make money，” he recalled. He redecorated his house into a B&B place ready for operation.

Lis B&B place took a new look of a customized hotel in 2014， when the towns B&B industry reached its first peak. Impressed by the hospitality of the couple， a designer from Taiwan offered to redesign the house for free. “That way the house will look a lot better and bring more money，” the guest advised.

The reconstruction started right away. Li and his wife drew on local resources， transforming kitchen cabinets into guestroom wardrobes and collecting waste timber pieces for use as roof beams.

After completion of the hardware upgrading， the couple racked their brain to improve services. “We try our best to provide the best possible services so that guests leave here without regret，” Lis wife Shan Zongxia told us. At the new Huaqiangu， everything is designed to ensure an authentic rural experience for guests.

“People come to my place for our ‘seasonal enjoyment - gathering bamboo shoots and tealeaves in the spring， picking fruits in autumn and taking in the snow view in winter.”

Huaqiangu is an ideal place to have a taste of the famous Mist Tea （also branded as ‘Tianmu Yunding） grown in the depths of the eastern side of the Tianmu Mountain.

In the tea room on the first floor of Huaqiangu， tea lovers get together to sample the thousand-year-long tea culture of Tianmu Mountain and try the ‘tea banquet innovated by the couple.

Earlier this year， more than 20 B&B owners gathered at Huaqiangu for a meeting to brainstorm on country tourism innovation. For the B&B trailblazers and their followers， the journey to the future will be a bitter-sweet experience that promises more surprises than disappointments.endprint