走進古鎮 尋覓記憶中的鄉愁

□ 文/本刊記者 賀煜

石板街，吊腳樓，飛檐高翹，院落深深，勾畫出重慶古鎮的輪廓。千年歷史積淀了厚重的巴渝文化，各色古鎮猶如珍珠散落，承載著這座歷史名城久遠的記憶。今年國慶期間，重慶的古鎮旅游又“火”了一把。沙坪壩區磁器口古鎮接待62.69萬人次，同比增長31.4%；銅梁安居古城因“2018中國·重慶小姐超級大賽暨中華龍鄉旅游形象大使選拔賽海選”轟動全城。此外，渝北龍興、酉陽龔灘、榮昌萬靈等古鎮皆深受游客青睞。

深秋初冬，不妨走進重慶古鎮，細品古鎮韻味，感受巴渝山水的靈氣和人文底蘊，尋找記憶里的鄉愁。

Slate-paved streets, stilted buildings, curling-up eaves and deep courtyards have sketched the outline of Chongqing ancient towns. The millennial history has accumulated a heavy Bashu culture. Various ancient towns are like pearls scattered, bearing the memory of this historical and famous city. During the National Day this year, Chongqing’s ancient town tourism has gotten “popular” again. The Ciqikou ancient town in Shapingba District has received 626,900 person-times, a year-on-year increase of 31.4%. Tongliang Anju ancient town has created quite a stir in Chongqing through the “2018 China· Miss Chongqing Super Competition and Qualification Trials of China Dragon Town Tourism Image Ambassador”.In addition, Longxing ancient town in Yubei District, Gongtan ancient town in Youyang and Wanling ancient town in Rongchang are also very popular among tourists.

In the early autumn and early winter, you may wish to walk into the ancient towns of Chongqing, taste the charm of the ancient towns,experience the aura and humanistic heritage of the Bayu mountains and waters, and trace the nostalgia in memory.

① 銅梁安居古城。 攝影/郭洪

② 沙坪壩磁器口古鎮。 攝影/唐安冰

磁器口古鎮 Ciqikou Ancient Town

磁器口古鎮，位于沙坪壩區嘉陵江畔，始建于宋代，擁有“一江兩溪三山四街”的獨特地貌，形成天然良港，是嘉陵江邊重要的水陸碼頭，曾繁盛一時，名列重慶古鎮之首。

磁器口古鎮是國家AAAA級景區，中國歷史文化名街，重慶“新巴渝十二景”……古鎮蘊含豐富的巴渝文化、沙磁文化、紅巖文化和民間文化，各具特色。“一條石板路，千年磁器口”，磁器口古鎮是重溫老重慶舊夢的好去處。

Beside the bank of Jialing River, Ciqikou ancient town built in the Song Dynasty is located in Shapingba District. It has a unique landform of “one river, two streams, three mountains and four streets” and is a natural harbor. As an important water and land terminal beside the Jialing River, it was once the top one among ancient towns in Chongqing.

Ciqikou ancient town is a national AAAA-level scenic spot, a famous historical and cultural street in China, and a “new ninety-eight scenic spots in Chongqing” …… It is rich in distinctive Bayu culture,Shapingpingba and Ciqikou culture, Hongyan culture and folk culture.“A slate-paved street symbolizes the millennial Ciqikou”, thus, Ciqikou ancient town is a good place to relive the old dreams of old Chongqing.

龔灘古鎮 Gongtan Ancient Town

龔灘古鎮，位于烏江與阿蓬江交匯處，是酉陽“千里烏江，百里畫廊”的起點，自古便是烏江流域乃至長江流域的貨物中轉站。

龔灘古鎮是中國歷史文化名鎮、國家AAAA級旅游景區，被譽為“烏江畫廊核心景區和璀璨明珠”。別具一格的封火墻、古樸幽靜的院落，吊腳樓、石板街，串聯起整個古鎮的老建筑，包括冉家院子、西秦會館、川主廟和董家祠堂等。漫步古鎮或船游烏江畫廊，都別有一番風味。

Located at the intersection of Wujiang River and A’penjiang River, it is the starting point of the “thousand-miles long Wujiang and hundred-miles long gallery” in Youyang. Since ancient times, it has been a cargo transfer station in the Wujiang River Basin and even the Yangtze river basin.

Gongtan ancient town is a famous historical and cultural town in China and a national AAAA-level tourist attraction. It is known as “the core scenic spot and the splendid pearl of of Wujiang Gallery”. Unique banking-fire wall, quaint and quiet courtyards, stilted buildings and slate-paved streets have connected the old buildings of the entire ancient town, including the Ranjia Courtyard, the Western Shanxi Guild Hall, Chuanzhu (river divinity)Temple and Dong Clan Memorial Temple. It is very interesting to take a stroll through the ancient town or have a boat tour along Wujiang Gallery.

酉陽龔灘古鎮。 攝影/李化

萬靈古鎮 Wanling Ancient Town

萬靈古鎮，原名路孔鎮，位于榮昌區城東，街市依山而建，素有“小山城”的美譽。

萬靈古鎮是一個以水興市、以市興鎮的寨堡式古鎮。古街青石板路蜿蜒而上，層層疊疊，木制結構的的店面緊緊相依，原始而古樸。歷經滄桑，古鎮依然保存著獨特風貌。斑駁的古城墻與古寨門、古色古香的漕運碼頭、古樸雅致的趙氏宗祠與大夫第，彌足珍貴的漢代墓葬群與宋代千佛石窟，古寺、古橋、古樹和一個個優美的民間傳說與典故，無不滲透著古鎮深厚的文化內涵。

Formerly known as Lukong town, it is located in the east of Rongchang District, with its market built on the hill. It is known as the “small mountain city”.

Wanling ancient town is a stockade-style ancient town with water transport prospering markets and markets advancing the town. The ancient slate-paved streets are winding up and stacked, and the storefronts with wooden structure are close together, which are primitive and simple.After the vicissitudes of life, the ancient town still retains a unique style. All things are infiltrated by the profound cultural connotations of the ancient town, such as the mottled ancient city wall and the ancient stockade gate, the grain transporting wharf with antique beauty, the quaint and elegant Zhao Clan Ancestral Hall and the Manor Garden,the precious tombs of the Han Dynasty and the Thousand Buddha Caves of the Song Dynasty,as well as the ancient temples, ancient bridges,ancient trees and beautiful folklores and allusions.

榮昌萬靈古鎮 。 攝影/唐安冰

偏巖古鎮 Pianyan Ancient Town

偏巖古鎮，位于北碚區金刀峽鎮境內，是重慶通往華 古道上的一座工商古鎮。雖歷經百年變遷，但其街道、建筑、民風依然保留著古樸、優雅的風貌。

古鎮依山傍水而建，清代木屋磚舍鱗次櫛比，錯落有致。蜿蜒曲折的黑水灘河三面環鎮，岸邊的百年黃葛樹盤根錯節，樹冠遮天蔽日。街區、戲臺、客棧、石橋等老建筑面貌依舊；石雕、鐵器、服飾等民間工藝至今猶存。古鎮處處透著恬淡之美。

Located in the Jindaoxia Town in Beibei District, Pianan ancient town is an industrial and commercial town on the ancient road leading to Huaying. Although it has undergone a hundred years of change, its streets, buildings, and folk customs still retain a simple and elegant style.

The ancient town was built by the mountains and the waters.The houses made with wood and bricks in the Qing Dynasty are row upon row, and they are in picturesque. The town is surrounded by the winding Heishuitan River on three sides. The centuries-old yellow eucalyptus trees on the shore are intertwined with the canopy covering the sky and the farmhouses. The old buildings such as the old blocks, the ancient stage, the ancient inn, and the ancient stone bridge are still in the same shape; folk crafts such as stone carving, ironware and costumes still exist today. There is a faint beauty everywhere.

北碚偏巖古鎮。 攝影/秦廷富

潼南雙江古鎮。

雙江古鎮 Shuangjiang Ancient Town

雙江古鎮，位于潼南區境內，古鎮建于明末清初，距今有400余年。擁有全國歷史文化名鎮、重慶市紅色旅游線、楊尚昆主席故里等眾多品牌。

雙江古鎮是一個山水霧中的小鎮，依山傍水，風景秀麗。這里以清代為特色的院落建筑保存完好，被譽為“清代一條街”，還有許多名人故居。古色古香的四合院落門坊柱壁，雕飾精美，四角飛檐高翹，庭院深深，為典型的巴蜀古鎮風韻。

Located in the territory of Tongnan District, Shuangjiang ancient town was built in the late Ming dynasty and early Qing dynasty, which has been existing for more than 400 years. It has many famous brands such as the National Historical and Cultural Town, the Chongqing Red Tourism Line, and the Native Land of Chairman Yang Shangkun.

Shuangjiang ancient town is built by the mountains and rivers and is very picturesque. The Ming Dynasty and Qing Dynasty buildings are well preserved and are known as the Qing Dynasty Street. There are also many celebrities’ former residences. The house gates and columns of Siheyuan with antique flavor are exquisitely carved with the four-cornered cornices high-pitched and the courtyard being deep. Typical charm of the ancient town of Bayu is fully presented here.

文峰古街 Wenfeng Ancient Street

文峰古街，處于合川區涪江一橋與嘉陵江南屏大橋間濱江帶，是國家AAA風景名勝區。古街正中有一文峰塔，當地人稱其白塔，古塔是清嘉慶十五年修建的，至今有200多年歷史。文峰古街就是在老白塔街的基礎上重新修建起來的，是一條具有巴渝古街風格的商業與旅游街道。

合川文峰古街。 攝影/唐安冰

重慶的古鎮遠不止于此，銅梁安居古城、江津中山古鎮、黔江濯水古鎮、石柱西沱古鎮等早已蜚聲在外。青石板路與古建筑交相輝映，民居古樸自然，原汁原味的古鎮風貌，不是江南，勝似江南。

來吧！穿越繁華的都市，走進靜謐的小巷，觸摸歷史的脈搏，盡享眼下的恬靜。

圖片/北碚區委宣傳部、合川區委宣傳部、銅梁區委宣傳部、潼南區委宣傳部、酉陽區委宣傳部、榮昌區委宣傳部提供

Wenfeng ancient street is located in the Binjiang section of the Fujiang First Bridge in Hechuan District and the Nanping Bridge above Jialing River. It is a national AAA scenic spot. There is a Wenfeng Tower in the middle of the ancient street. The locals call it the White Tower. The ancient tower was built in the 15th year of Qing Dynasty ruled by Emperor Jiaqing and has a history of more than 200 years. Wenfeng ancient street is rebuilt on the basis of the ancient White Tower Street and is also a commercial and tourist street with the style of Bayu ancient street.

The ancient towns of Chongqing are far more than these. The Tongliang ancient town, the Zhongshan ancient town in Jiangjin, the Zhuoshui ancient town in Qianjiang, and the Xituo ancient town in Shizhu have been famous for a long time. The slate-paved roads and the ancient buildings complement each other. The residences are simple, natural and in attractive disorder, and the original ancient town style is more like Jiangnan style though it is not in Jiangnan.

Come on! Let’s pass through the bustling city, walk into the quiet alleys, touch the pulse of history, and fully enjoy the silence in ancient towns.

Photos provided by/Beibei District Committee Publicity Department, Hechuan District Committee Publicity Department, Tongliang District Committee Publicity Department,Tongnan District Committee Publicity Department, Youyang District Committee Publicity Department, Rongchang District Committee Publicity Department