山城街巷 尋味“江湖”

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01 在重慶呆了七年，在玄易風眼里，重慶是個不能用常規思維理解和相處的城市

4月8日，沙坪壩區三峽廣場陽光正好。樹蔭下，一頭金發的帕克（Parker）正彎著腰，和一群打四川長牌的老人相談甚歡。

作為一個美國人，帕克有一個頗具玄幻武俠味的中國名字——玄易風，這源自于他對東方哲學的癡迷。這種癡迷，也驅使他7年前來到重慶大學博雅學院繼續深造。

玄易風是老莊的“鐵桿粉絲”，張口閉口就是“老子曰”“莊子曰”：“莊子講‘物物而不物于物’，是他對‘自由’的解讀，境界很高，幾千年過去了，對于現代人同樣受用。”

畢業后，他留在重慶，成了四川外國語大學的一名口語和翻譯老師。

去年7月，他又有了一個新身份——重慶國際傳播中心的外籍記者。三峽廣場初見玄易風時，他正是在做一個有關老人業余休閑活動的街頭采訪。

On April 8, it was sunny in the Three Gorges Square in Shapingba District.

Under the tree, a blond-hair guy was leaning forward and chit-chatting with a bunch of seniors playing the Sichuan bridge. This guy is named Parker.

02 一頭金發的帕克，在去年7月有了一個新身份——重慶國際傳播中心的外籍記者

03 山城普通老百姓，都是采訪對象

04 玄易風在三峽廣場做一個有關老人業余休閑活動的街頭采訪

Though being an American, Parker has given himself a Chinese name "Xuan Yifeng", which is correlative of Chinese fantasy and martial arts. It is derived from his obsession with oriental philosophy.Seven years ago, driven by such an obsession, he came to the Liberal Arts College of Chongqing University for further study.

Xuan Yifeng is a "hardcore fan" of the Chuang-tzu. And he frequently quotes the Confucius and Chuang-tzu. For example,he interprets "liberal" by quoting Chuangtze's "To drive instead of driven by the material desire". He believes Chuang-tzu's conception is still applicable to modern people after thousands of years. ”

Since graduation, he has been based in Chongqing and become a professor of Sichuan International Studies University,teaching spoken English and translation.

Since July of last year, he has gained a new identity: Foreign journalist of Chongqing International Communication Center. So when we first met Xuan Yifeng at the Three Gorges Square, he was having a street interview on seniors entertainment.

05 三峽廣場的雕塑讓玄易風聯想到他很喜歡的重慶美食

“江湖”中的家常味 Home Style in “Jiang Hu”

在重慶生活了7年，玄易風覺得重慶最大的魅力在于山城的“江湖”。

見我對“江湖”有疑問，玄易風笑著解釋，說這個“江湖”，其實就是“生活”。很多生活在重慶的人之所以喜歡重慶，最重要的一點就是重慶的生活。

這當然也包括外國人。

說到“江湖”，玄易風首先就說到吃。他向我們回憶起重慶大學那段最美好的時光：下課后，他常常穿過重大校園的老房子，沿著一條小路到一個老居民區。這里有一對老夫婦開了一家餐館，餐館在一樓，里面空間很小，用餐都在屋外的院壩——一棵很高很粗的黃葛樹下，擺上簡陋的木桌子和小凳子，到了飯點，這里就陸續坐滿附近的老人、小孩。

“雖說都是些普通的家常菜，比如說紅燒肉、土豆絲、魚香肉絲，但是味道很好。”玄易風很喜歡和這些當地居民擠在一張桌子上邊吃飯邊聊天，這讓他感覺很“江湖”。在他看來，這家餐館就像是生活在重慶的縮影，“閑適、安逸而且美好。”

于是我理解，玄易風口中的這個“江湖”，或許就是生活在重慶的家常味。

這個“江湖”很深，也很迷人，于是玄易風喜歡流連于旮旯小巷，尋找重慶家常美食，或者泡在交通茶館，和老茶客擺一天閑龍門陣……去年春節，他還去江津區中山古鎮趕了場長街宴，過了個“土味”十足的年，“狹長的古鎮小路上，當地老百姓擺出千米長桌，寬條凳、碗碗菜，我和中山古鎮的街坊鄰里，還有游客們，在這里過了一個歡樂的春節。”

After living in Chongqing for seven years,Xuan Yifeng finds the best about the mountain city is "Jiang Hu".

Seeing my confusion, he explained with a smile, saying that "Jiang Hu" actually means life. A great many non-locals in Chongqing love this city for its life.

So do the foreigners.

06 樹蔭下，玄易風和一群打四川長牌的老人相談甚歡

To further explain "Jiang Hu", Xuan Yifeng first mentioned about the food.He conjured up his favorite memories at Chongqing University: after school, he usually ambled through the time-honored campus and along a small pass toward an old residence. Here is a diner run by an old couple. It is on the ground floor and a bit narrow inside. So the diners have to eat in the front yard under a tall strong banyan tree. At the mealtime, seniors and children from the neighborhood will gradually occupy all the makeshift wood tables and stools.

"Though they sell some common home style dishes, such as braised pork, stirfried shredded potato and shredded port with garlic sauce, they taste really good. " Xuan Yifeng enjoys eating and chatting with local residents together because it makes him feel"Jiang Hu". In his view, this small diner is an epitome of the life in Chongqing, which is relaxing, carefree and wonderful.

Therefore, from my perspective, Xuan Xifeng's so-called "Jiang Hu" is perhaps the home style of life in Chongqing.

This "Jiang Hu" is meaningful and intoxicating. That's why Xuan Yifeng prefers to seek home style delicacy in Chongqing's inconspicuous corners or lingers at the old tea house to strike up a conversation with customers. At last Spring Festival, he went for the banquet at the street at Zhongshan Old Town in Jiangjin District. It is a timehonored custom of the Hani ethnic group,a kind of earthy celebration of the Chinese New Year. Along the long narrow street of the old town, local folks laid out tables of a thousand meters on which dishes of all kind were served. So he spent a happy Chinese New Year there with local residents and other visitors. ”

“野性”里的煙火味 “Wildness” in Daily Life

在玄易風眼里，重慶還是個不能用常規思維去理解和相處的城市，當你覺得熟悉之后，總會有新的發現在等著你，這其中，有一點兒不按常理出牌的味道，就是“野性”。

和“江湖”一樣，玄易風口中所說的“野性”，也得從他“吃”的經歷來解釋。

玄易風說，南坪有一家叫“莽子牛肉”的餐館，主營牛肉火鍋，火鍋店主盡管個頭不大，但特別強勢，尤其是嗓門。

09 在重慶生活了7年之久，玄易風覺得重慶最大的魅力在于山城的“生活味”

“這還不算啥，顧客想在這里吃飯還得滿足各種條件。”玄易風接著說，“吃飯必須要四個人；周末白天不營業，晚上才開門；如果客人要加牛肉，必須吃完再點；用餐時不能高聲喧嘩。”

“在這家餐館吃飯，人們只能悄悄喝酒劃拳。”玄易風一手遮住半邊臉，一手比劃著劃拳的動作，“不過，盡管餐館地方小，老板規矩多，但去的人還是很多，因為好吃。”

“在我看來，‘野性’正是重慶這座城市的性格之一。它并非貶義詞，而是市井生活里的煙火味。”玄易風向我們解釋。

不管是吃飯有很多規矩的野性，還是圍坐在小方桌旁家長里短的隨性，在玄易風眼里，都是重慶生活的味道。他也希望好好利用作為記者的便利，把他所熱愛的這重慶味道傳遞給更多人，為此，他用手中的鏡頭記錄了一段段山城老百姓生活的影像，也去采訪各行各業的人。

今年1月，玄易風采訪了嘻哈歌手GAI，GAI有一句話讓玄易風感同身受，“GAI對我說，只要你踏上這座城市，就會感受到這座城市對你的熱情，生活處處都是美麗。GAI雖說不是土生土長的重慶人，但他在重慶找到了歸屬感。他和重慶這座城市一樣，直接、霸道，他大部分的歌詞也源于這座城市。”

“重慶是一座包容性很強的城市，不論你是哪種身份，大家都能玩到一起，大家都是重慶人。”玄易風說。

Xuan Yifeng sees Chongqing as a city that you cannot judge or understand with normal standards. The instant you think you know much about it, you will always discover something new. It never plays by the rules, so that is the "wildness" about it.

Same as "Jiang Hu", Xuan Yifeng explained the "wildness" also with his experience of "eating".

He said, there is a diner named "Mangzi Beef" at Nanping, specializing in hot pot.The owner is a small man but with a big temper, especially a big voice.

10 在玄易風看來，“野性”正是重慶這座城市的性格，正如辣椒一樣熱火朝天

"That's not enough. The customer has to follow his rules in order to eat. " Xuan Yifeng continued, "you must eat in a group of four;at weekends, the diner is closed in daytime and open only at night; diners have to empty their plates so as to refill the beef; and no one shall talk aloud when having meal. ”

"So people have to drink and play finger-guessing game quietly at the diner." Xuan Yifeng covered his mouth with one hand and gestured with the other to play finger-guessing game, "But, though it is a small diner with many rules, it is always crowded with diners for the tasty food. ”

"In my view, 'wildness' is a character of Chongqing. I mean nothing negative, just the daily life in the hustle-bustle of the city. ",explained Xuan Yifeng.

In Xuan Yifeng's eyes, the wild various dining rules and the casual small talks around a family table are all part of Chongqing's life.He also hoped to make full of his identity as a journalist to help more people get to know Chongqing. Thus, he recorded the daily life of the mountain city with his camera and had interviews with people of all kinds.

In January of this year, Xuan Yifeng interviewed GAI, a hip-hop singer. He felt deeply affected by GAI's words, "as soon as you come to the city, you will feel the warmth of it and life is wonderful here in every corner." GAI is not a native Chongqinger, but he finds a sense of belonging here. His temperament is like the city, direct and potent. And his lyrics are basically inspired by the city. ”

"Chongqing is an inclusive city. No matter who or what you are, people treat you the same as the natives", said Xuan Yifeng.