水調(diào)數(shù)聲持酒聽

徐芳芳

點(diǎn)茶歇、喝咖啡、品美食、泡酒吧、淘古玩、賞花鳥、做手工、逛老街、住民宿……在月河，每一個(gè)人都能找到屬于自己的休閑方式。

晴空下、月光里、星輝中，月河是嘉興人最柔情的港灣。

如果您要問嘉興的月河歷史街區(qū)是什么樣子的，真的是一百個(gè)人心中就有一百個(gè)月河。月河不僅是嘉興南湖旅游區(qū)的重要組成部分，更是嘉興文化的體驗(yàn)地。

一

清代《讀史方輿紀(jì)要·嘉興府》有“運(yùn)河”條目：“運(yùn)河在城西，又東流十八里，經(jīng)學(xué)繡塔。又東五里，經(jīng)白龍?zhí)?，又轉(zhuǎn)而北，繞府城下，為月河，與秀水合……”月河位于嘉興城北，連通大運(yùn)河，形成了有如月亮的一個(gè)彎，于是有了“其水彎曲，抱城如月”，月河，便取名于此。

如果從建筑規(guī)劃的角度來看，月河是嘉興市現(xiàn)存最完整、規(guī)模最大、最能反映江南水鄉(xiāng)城市居住特色、文化特色的區(qū)域之一，其總占地面積達(dá)9萬平方米;如果從游客的角度來說，月河是一個(gè)多元而又有趣的地方，她身上自帶大氣之美，自2008年對(duì)外開放起就免門票，敞開懷抱笑迎天下客，吸引了五湖四海的客商。概括地說，這里是老年人的快樂驛站、年輕人的動(dòng)感地帶、食客們的尋味天堂、古玩行家的淘寶地、商旅人士的休閑處……從人文的角度來說，她是運(yùn)河文化的一枝，是中國(guó)端午民俗文化的一個(gè)符號(hào)。

從高空俯瞰，月河如彎月抱城。整個(gè)月河歷史街區(qū)以平行的“三河三街”為基本格局，三河包括京杭大運(yùn)河、外月河、里月河，三街包括中基路、壇弄、秀水兜街。其中外月河是京杭大運(yùn)河嘉興段的重要組成部分。1700多年以來，京杭大運(yùn)河就沿著這條水道一路往南。居住在運(yùn)河旁的禾城先輩，在流金歲月中繁衍生息，慢慢形成以江南民居為特色的商業(yè)聚集區(qū)。春天，綠色的河、白色的墻、黛青色的瓦，片片桃紅柳綠點(diǎn)綴其中，好一幅小橋流水人家的江南風(fēng)光，靜態(tài)的月河猶如一幅江南水墨畫。

夏蟬鳴，秋氣爽，冬如意。每一個(gè)季節(jié)，月河自有她的格調(diào)。

二

月河歷史街區(qū)有著大家閨秀的靜謐與優(yōu)雅，也有著鄰家姐姐的親切與包容。由于街區(qū)是免票的，所以月河在不同客人面前的形象和功能也不盡相同。

在水運(yùn)還是主要交通方式的時(shí)候，沿河的小豬廊下，是運(yùn)河南北經(jīng)濟(jì)的黃金水道、漕運(yùn)的重要樞紐和當(dāng)?shù)孛资?、苗豬的集散交易中心，這里客商云集，貨船熙熙攘攘地在這里停泊、起航。這里曾是漫畫家張樂平創(chuàng)作靈感之地，據(jù)說他的《三毛流浪記》場(chǎng)景原型就出自月河。這里也是文化老人吳藕汀暫居之地，他在《藥窗詩(shī)話》里記錄了月河街怡園茶館老板的賒茶行商、樸素誠(chéng)信。如今，這里是老年人的快樂驛站。每天一早，長(zhǎng)廊下座無虛席，大家三五成群相聚于此，享受著美妙的早茶時(shí)光。各色茶品是要吃的，張萃豐的蜜餞自然要嘗的，嘉湖細(xì)點(diǎn)更是早茶必備之物。他們?cè)谛∝i廊下交談著，或是在追憶青春，或是在品味人生。茶能醒腦，敘舊之后的他們干脆分起了撲克、擺下了棋盤，在各色紙牌中斗智斗勇雙全，在縱橫交錯(cuò)的棋盤上一展運(yùn)籌帷幄的風(fēng)采……

中基路上游人如織，一半是琳瑯滿目的美食鋪，一半是珠光寶氣的玉器古玩商店。

星巴克、肯德基吸引著年輕人的光臨。陸稿薦、鄒大鮮、江南外婆橋、真真老老、嘉湖細(xì)點(diǎn)這些老字號(hào)，用最誘人的香味牢牢抓住吃貨們的胃。

這里又是華東地區(qū)最大的古玩交易市場(chǎng)，各色玉器珠寶總能吸引游客的目光。最令古玩愛好者喜愛的，莫過于每個(gè)周末的月河古玩集會(huì)，這時(shí)，五湖四海的古玩愛好者蜂擁而至，把整個(gè)集市圍得水泄不通。各色古玩擺上街頭，買賣雙方說著你聽不懂的行話，打著你看不明白的手勢(shì)，品評(píng)器物，洽談價(jià)格。有的聘請(qǐng)行家里手過來助陣，有的抱著平常心以佛系心態(tài)想著撿漏，哪怕什么也不買，長(zhǎng)長(zhǎng)眼、感受一下古玩集市的鬧猛，也是不錯(cuò)的選擇。

然而鬧猛地方還有許多，譬如中基路的西北角就隱藏著一個(gè)大型花鳥市場(chǎng)，全國(guó)各地甚至國(guó)外的花朵漂洋過海齊聚于此。熱愛生活的人們?cè)谶@里挑選心儀的花兒裝扮自己的庭院客廳，老人小孩則喜歡在鳥類區(qū)挑選心儀的寵物。

在后街，每當(dāng)夜幕降臨，老木頭、小酒窩、九點(diǎn)半、山之道、石庫(kù)門、青楊……沉睡了一天的眾多酒吧開啟了夜生活的模式，人們相伴而來，喝點(diǎn)小酒、唱點(diǎn)小歌，釋放壓力、舒緩疲勞，月河酒吧一條街成為年輕人解壓的“動(dòng)感地帶”。

三

如果你是匆匆的過客，或許你會(huì)說，月河缺乏人文歷史的沉淀;但如果這你愿意慢享月河的給予，你會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)月河歷史街區(qū)處處散發(fā)著人文氣息。

譬如中國(guó)近現(xiàn)代著名的文字學(xué)家、歷史學(xué)家、青銅器專家唐蘭，國(guó)內(nèi)佛學(xué)界權(quán)威范古農(nóng)，就是在月河出生的。

如果你喜愛蜜餞，就會(huì)知道創(chuàng)始于1914年的張萃豐已經(jīng)傳承百年，今天的第六代掌門人張愛靈扛起了嘉興蜜餞行業(yè)的大旗;

如果你去吃個(gè)粽子，就會(huì)了解真真老老從1912年起歷經(jīng)百年的打磨傳到今天，第三代傳人邵建國(guó)繼續(xù)弘揚(yáng)著嘉興的粽子文化;

如果你去吃了醬鴨，就會(huì)知道陸稿薦的百年風(fēng)云;

如果你去嘉禾結(jié)繩鋪?zhàn)淤I個(gè)香囊，就會(huì)知道店鋪里慈祥的老人叫鄭鶯鶯，鄭家的香囊制作技藝在1918年就已經(jīng)名震一方，如今已成為禾城第六批傳統(tǒng)技藝……

如果你漫步在江南的雨巷，令人印象最深的還是端午民俗文化。因?yàn)樵谠潞樱汶S處可以觸摸、體驗(yàn)這一民俗活動(dòng)。

嘉禾端午民俗體驗(yàn)館暨月河嘉湖細(xì)點(diǎn)體驗(yàn)館的大廳里，兩艘金色的龍舟立在水中蓄勢(shì)待發(fā)，展廳內(nèi)有關(guān)于端午的起源和習(xí)俗的介紹;街區(qū)里的粽子文化博物館，清楚明白地解讀著江浙端午文化的起源、習(xí)俗與傳承的不同。

南湖旅游區(qū)是嘉興端午民俗文化節(jié)舉辦地之一，月河歷史街區(qū)更是眾多端午活動(dòng)的體驗(yàn)地，從端午百粽宴到運(yùn)河長(zhǎng)街宴，從包粽子大賽到五彩香囊迎端午，從龍舟賽到嘉禾水上婚典，濃厚的端午氛圍吸引了無數(shù)中外游客的參與。賽龍舟、吃五黃、包粽子、佩香囊、掛艾草……一串串香囊、一幅幅剪紙、一枚枚粽子、一組組文創(chuàng)旅游商品，成為禮物，化為鄉(xiāng)愁，通過海陸空不同的物流方式，送到了海外華人華僑、國(guó)際友人的手中……

點(diǎn)茶歇、喝咖啡、品美食、泡酒吧、淘古玩、賞花鳥、做手工、逛老街、住民宿……在月河，每一個(gè)人都能找到屬于自己的休閑方式;

晴空下、月光里、星輝中，月河是嘉興人最柔情的港灣。

月河，你好！

As a geographic book of the Qing Dynasty （1644-1911） has it， the Moon River in the north of Jiaxing City connects with the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal on both ends. As it curves like a crescent moon， this part of the moat is aptly called the Moon River. Over the past 1，700 years， the Grand Canal has been a golden watercourse， bringing fortune and luck to Jiaxing so heartily embraced by the Moon River.

As Jiaxing grew and expanded， the characters Moon River have been referred to a much larger area. At present， Moon River is a general name for a 90，000-square-meter area traversed by the Grand Canal， the Inner Moon River and the Outer Moon River and Zhongji Road， Tan Lane and Xiushuidou Street where regional architecture， traditional lifestyle， history and culture are well preserved and highlighted.

There are ample reasons why the area is now known as Moon River Historical Neighborhood. The area features different things to different visitors. Before modernization introduced highways to China， shipping on the inland water transport was a major booster of economic prosperity in this part of the country. Along the Moon River were many docks for business where consumer goods changed hands between wholesalers at different levels. The area was a wholesale and retail center for the region.

Naturally， the area boasts culture and history. For example， the neighborhood is said to have served as the original background of the famous comic series created by Zhang Leping （1910-1992）， a master cartoonist. Wu Outing （1913-2005）， a painter and poet and native of Jiaxing， wrote in a book that a teahouse businessman in the Moon River neighborhood did his business honestly. Tang Lan （1901-1979）， a man of letters， historian， scholar of bronze artifacts， was born in the area. Fan Gunong （1881-1951）， a scholar of Buddhism， was also born in the area. Local food writers would be most happy to discuss the culinary wonders of the region and trace their histories and personages behind success stories.

The Moon River Historical Neighborhood boasts the biggest antique marketplace in the east of China， where dealers gravitate from all over the country and a large quantity of jade artifacts and jade jewelry change hands on weekends. In a corner of the area， there is a flower and pet marketplace which attracts buyers from all over the city.

Quite a few shops in the area are famed for the traditional culinary art of Jiaxing. Lu Gao Jian， a duck shop specialized in making and selling ducks seasoned with soybean sauce， is more than 100 years old. Zhang Cui Feng， founded in 1914， is the best candied fruits manufacturer and retailer in Jiaxing. A pyramid-shaped rice dumpling shop in the area dates back to 1912. The fame of a shop that makes and sells herbal-perfume sachets dates back to 1918.

Naturally， there are some elements of modern lifestyle in the area. In a backstreet that is conveniently called Back Street， nightclubs attract a large young clientele. Starbucks and Kentucky Fried Chicken highlight their presence in the Moon River area.

The traditional and modern allures in the Moon River area combine to be a huge tourist attraction， which has been free of admission fee since 2008. Tourists find local delicacies and jewelry irresistible when they stroll along Zhongji Road and see restaurants， food shops， souvenir shops， and jewelry shops. It is also favored by local visitors. Local gourmets love to have a good time in the area. Business people also love to entertain their guests here. Seniors of Jiaxing love to hang out there chatting over a cup of tea， playing poker or chess games， and enjoying traditional snack food and delicacies at old-time restaurants and shops.