枕水烏鎮

郭曉娟

烏鎮是首批中國歷史文化名鎮，擁有1300年建鎮史，隸屬于浙江省嘉興市桐鄉市，地處江浙滬“金三角”之地，河流縱橫交織，京杭大運河依鎮而過。十字形的內河水系把烏鎮一分為四，當地人將四個區塊分別稱之為“東柵、南柵、西柵、北柵”。其中，東、西兩柵被開發為旅游景點，也最為游客熟知。

東柵軟語，西柵風情。

東柵是電視劇《似水年華》的主要取景地，以河成街，街橋相連，水鄉風貌完整。在東柵，可以看到江南古鎮的所有精華，各種建筑、廳堂、水閣、廊棚等一應俱全，手工作坊和傳統商鋪各具特色，特色展品琳瑯滿目。若有興趣，可以駐足觀賞民俗表演，商鋪區的拳船、財神灣的高竿船、戲臺上的花鼓戲，還有翰林第中的皮影戲，都是烏鎮傳統民俗的生動寫照。東柵的老街上有眾多的老建筑，其中最為著名的便是茅盾故居。烏鎮是文學巨匠茅盾的故鄉，他自1896年誕生至1909年離鄉求學，在這幢故居中生活了13個春秋。如今，很多游客慕名而來，瞻仰先賢的同時，也在尋找《春蠶》《秋收》《林家鋪子》中的生活片斷，仿佛時光倒流回舊日里的江南水鄉……

西柵由12個碧水環繞的小島組成，60多座小橋將這些小島串連在一起，老建筑依水而建，是典型的小橋流水景致。西柵雖與東柵同為主要景區，但這里沒有東柵的繁鬧市井，一切都經過重新整修和設計，街頭巷尾的咖啡館、酒吧，充滿了文藝情懷。白天逛完西柵，千萬不要著急離開，因為待到華燈初上，才是這里最動人時刻的開始。乘搖櫓船夜游西柵是非常值得推薦的體驗，置身光影交疊中才會發現，原來白天婉約的江南水鄉，燈影槳聲里竟如此璀璨奪目、分外迷人。

烏鎮，不單是因為風景的美好讓人心向往之，其淳樸和鮮活、由內而外散發的煙火氣也是吸引人的地方。“從前的日色變得慢，車、馬、郵件都很慢?！痹娙四拘难壑新朴频臑蹑?，如今依然有跡可循。不同于西柵、東柵，南柵和北柵的老房子、老街、老橋還保持著最初的樣子，就像不刻意修飾的村姑，淳樸自然的一面讓人更加回味無窮。這里的夜，這里的水，這里的燈光和小巷，甚至是拐角的茶館飯鋪、悠悠的手劃船，無不氤氳出水鄉獨有的煙火氣，融化了游人的心。

“來過，便不曾離開。”這是電視劇《似水年華》中英子留在烏鎮的輕語。對于許多來過烏鎮的人，這不僅是一句臺詞，更是一種心境。但凡去過烏鎮的人，都會有這樣的感受吧。

Wuzhen， as one of China’s first batch of famous historical and cultural towns， with a history of 1，300 years as a town， is under the jurisdiction of Tongxiang City， Jiaxing City， Zhejiang Province， and located in the“Golden Delta” of Jiangsu， Zhejiang and Shanghai. There is an intertwined river network in the town， where the Grand Canal flows. The cross-shaped inland water system divides Wuzhen into four parts， which are respectively known as “East Gate， South Gate， West Gate， and North Gate” to the natives. Among them， the East and West Gates have been developed into scenic spots， and are best known to tourists.

In the East Gate， you can see the essence of an ancient town in the south of the Yangtze River. There are all sorts of buildings， halls， waterside pavilions and corridors， distinctive manual workshops and traditional shops， as well as a great variety of characteristic exhibits. On the old street of the East Gate， there are numerous old buildings， among which， the Former Residence of Mao Dun is the most famous.

The West Gate consists of 12 islands which are surrounded by clear water and linked by more than 60 small bridges. There are old buildings built by water. All these present a typical view of small bridges over flowing water. When the evening lights are lit， you will enjoy the most impressive moment in the West Gate. A night tour on a boat in the West Gate is highly recommended. In the overlap of lights and shadows， you will find that the waterside town that is graceful and restrained in the daytime appears so dazzling and enchanting amid the sound of paddling.

Wuzhen has not only glamorous scenery， but also an attractive worldly atmosphere， which is simple yet vivid. “Time was slow in the past， and remains slow at present. Carriages， horses， and mails could not reach it quickly” That leisurely Wuzhen in the eyes of poet Mu Xin is still traceable. Unlike the West and East Gates， the old buildings， streets and bridges in the South and North Gates still maintain their original look. Like unadorned country girls， they show their simplicity and naturalness， which have a more lingering charm.