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時尚與科技的交響:上海時裝周上的AI對話展

2025-03-20 00:00:00貝拉
孔子學院 2025年1期
關鍵詞:上海藝術

在以“識尚新生態”為主題的2025春夏上海時裝周上,“王小慧與設計師的AI對話展”巧妙地將時尚、藝術和科技融為一體,呈現了一場前所未有的視覺盛宴。

At the 2025 Spring/Summer Shanghai Fashion Week, the themed “Fashion New Ecology”, the exibition “Artshow of AI Dialogue: Xiaohui Wang and Fashion Designers”combined fashion, art, and technology in a brilliant fusion, delivering an extraordinary visual feast.

與AI對話 A dialogue with AI

如今,AI的應用日益廣泛,已成為時代的潮流和熱點話題。上海時尚產業發展中心理事長邵峰先生一直密切關注AI的發展趨勢,他認為,服裝設計作為一種工藝美術高度依賴于人的靈感與創新能力,而AI應該是一個新的設計維度、一種展現思想的新呈現。這與跨界藝術家王小慧的想法不謀而合,他們共同發起,嘗試通過AI的方式,將此季時裝周的設計師理念和品牌秀的主題可視化。

AI is becoming a central part of our daily lives, sparking both trends and heated discussions. Mr Feng Shao, Chairman of the Shanghai Fashion Industry Development Centre, has been closely following the evolving role of AI. Mr Shao considers that fashion design, as a form of craftsmanship, thrives on human creativity and inspiration; he believes that AI serves as a new design dimension, being a fresh way of expressing ideas. This vision aligns closely with the perspective of interdisciplinary artist Xiaohui Wang. Together, they developed this project in order to visualise the concepts of this season’s designers and the subjects of brand shows through AI.

此次“AI對話展”邀請了30多位國際知名服裝設計師和AIGC(AI生成內容)設計師共同創作,探索利用AI完成時尚理念的表達。這對于目前的AI技術來說也是一項不小的考驗。經過數月的精心籌備,本次“AI對話展”最終交出了一份令人滿意的答卷。

The exhibition invited some 30 renowned international fashion designers and artificial intelligence generated content (AIGC) creators to collaborate, exploring how AI is able to articulate fashion ideas. This ambitious undertaking posed a significant challenge for current AI technology; after months of meticulous preparation, the exhibition proudly delivered its groundbreaking and satisfying results.

各具特色的作品 Unique and distinctive creations

陳鵬是2022年北京冬奧會的首席服裝設計師,他曾想做一個“人生定格”的設計。機緣巧合,他遇到了藝術家王小慧。王小慧的創作主題“生、死、愛”與陳鵬的設想不謀而合。于是,他們選定紅色與黑色作為作品的主色調,主題聚焦人生中最為深刻和最重要的三個節點:生、死、愛。

Peng Chen, the lead costume designer for the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics, envisioned a design concept titled “Life in Frames. ” By chance, he encountered the artist Xiaohui Wang, whose creative themes of “life, death, and love” aligned perfectly with his vision; together, they chose red and black as the primary colours for their collaboration, centering their work on the three most profound and pivotal events in human existence: life, death, and love.

這些作品從一個新穎的角度審視人生,對人生的某一特定瞬間進行解讀,力圖在設計中將人生的喜怒哀樂、愛和死亡、夢想與挫折在畫面中精準定格。在這些作品中,主人公都身著一件紅色或黑色的羽絨服,這寓意著人生各階段雖有不同,但都包裹在“生、死、愛”這些

永恒的主題之中。時間在那一刻仿佛靜止,而故事卻在畫面中無盡延伸。盡管AI的藝術表達能力是有限的,但透過這些作品,我們依然可以感受到藝術家們的情感與表達。在這里,時裝不僅僅是一種服飾,更擁有了藝術的脈搏。

These creations offer a fresh perspective on life, capturing and interpreting specific moments through an artistic lens. They strive to distil the essence of human experiences, i.e. pleasure, anger, sorrow, joy, love and death, dreams and setbacks, into precise, evocative designs. In each piece, the central figure is dressed in a red or black down jacket, symbolising the fact that, although the stages of life may differ, they are all contained within the eternal themes of “life, death, and love.” Time appears to stand still in these moments, yet the stories they tell seem to stretch infinitely beyond the frame. Although the capacity of AI to express art remains limited, these works convey the emotions and intentions of the artists with striking clarity. Here, fashion transcends its role as mere clothing, taking on the pulse of art and breathing life into timeless narratives.

著名化妝品牌羽西的創始人靳羽西總以一抹鮮艷的紅引人注目。在展覽的一幅作品中,靳羽西身著一襲紅色套裝,神采奕奕地走在20世紀八九十年代的大街上,眼神坦然而自信。靳羽西與王小慧是多年好友,這幅作品便是王小慧根據靳羽西的一張舊照創作而成。靳羽西認為,最美女性的特征是自信、敢于突破自己,與眾不同,因此她選擇“明亮的紅色”作為創作的關鍵詞。鮮亮的紅色通過AI技術得到了全新的詮釋,象征著女性的美麗、自信、獨立與鮮活。

The renowned founder of the cosmetics brand Yue Sai, Yuxi Jin (Yue-Sai Kan), is always distinguished by her signature colour of bold red. In one of the exhibition’s works, she is portrayed wearing a striking red suit, radiating confidence and vitality as she strides through the streets of the 1980s and 1990s; her gaze is calm but entirely self-assured. Yuxi Jin and Xiaohui Wang have been close friends for years; this piece was created by Wang based on an old photograph of Jin. Jin believes the most beautiful women are confident, sufficiently daring to push their boundaries, and uniquely themselves. Inspired by this philosophy, she chose “vibrant red” as the key theme for the creation. Through the lens of AI, this vibrant red takes on a fresh interpretation, symbolising the beauty, confidence, independence, and vitality of women.

八零后海歸設計師黃瀟婷的作品也在此次展覽中備受關注。她的參展作品“香染春秋,衣載風華”以中國傳統服飾“香云紗”為主題,展現了典雅、瑰麗的華夏衣裳文化。香云紗觸感柔軟如紙,穿著走動時會“沙沙”作響,因此得名“響云紗”,后被雅稱為“香云紗”。此面料最早起源于宋代,是世界紡織品中唯一用純植物染料染色的絲綢面料,被紡織界譽為“軟黃金”。在AI作品呈現的畫面中,身穿香云紗的優雅女子身處于一片淺褐色的世界,繁花簇擁,佳人“遺世而獨立”。這份如夢似幻的唯美意境將中國傳統服飾的審美意蘊表達得淋漓盡致。

The work of Xiaoting Huang, a designer from the post-80s generation who studied abroad, also captured significant attention at this exhibition. Her piece, Fragrant Elegance Through Time: Clothing That Embodies Grace, takes its inspiration from the traditional Chinese fabric Xiangyunsha (Gambiered Guangdong Gauze), celebrating the elegance and splendour of Chinese fashion heritage. Xiangyunsha is soft to the touch, resembling paper; it produces a gentle rustling sound when worn, earning it the nickname “sounding silk” before being more poetically renamed “fragrant silk.” This fabric, which dates back to the Song Dynasty, is the only silk material in the world dyed using purely plant-based dyes, being known in the textile industry as “soft gold.” In the AI-rendered imagery, an elegant woman dressed in Xiangyunsha is depicted in a light brown world surrounded by blooming flowers, her poised figure standing gracefully apart from the mundane.This dreamy, ethereal beauty vividly captures the aesthetic essence of traditional Chinese attire, highlighting its timeless cultural appeal.

從以上三組各具特色的作品中,我們足以窺見這場AI對話展的魅力。無論是對“生、死、愛”主題的探討和表達,還是對于女性形象的理解及對傳統服飾的現代詮釋,AI技術都給出了令人滿意的答案,這是時尚與科技、藝術與創新的一次成功跨界探索。

These three distinct creations offer a glimpse into the captivating allure of the AI Dialogue Artshow. Whether it is the exploration and expression of the themes of “life, death, and love,” the interpretation of female identity, or the modern reimagining of traditional clothing, AI technology has generated impressive results. This exhibition represents a successful cross-disciplinary venture, merging fashion with technology, and art with innovation, to create something truly extraordinary.

展覽背后的故事 The story behind the exhibition

這場精彩紛呈的藝術展覽,靈感源于女性AI藝術展《野小慧》。王小慧于1986年赴德國留學,之后在慕尼黑和上海兩地生活與工作,逐漸成長為國際知名的藝術家。

This remarkable art exhibition drew its inspiration from the female AI art show Wild Xiaohui. Wang Xiaohui went to study in Germany in 1986 and later lived and worked between Munich and Shanghai, gradually becoming an internationally renowned artist.

她的藝術創作領域極為廣泛,涵蓋攝影、影像、雕塑、設計、新媒體以及AI藝術等多個維度。同時,王小慧還是一位作家,出版了不少書籍,其自傳《我的視覺日記——旅德生活十五年》暢銷二十年,重印五十余次。她憑借卓越的藝術成就,在國內外屢獲殊榮,最近又被授予“歐洲科學與藝術學院院士”榮譽。

Wang’s artistic creations span a wide range of fields, including photography, film, sculpture, design, new media art, and AI-driven art. At the same time, Wang Xiaohui is also an author, having published numerous books. Her autobiography, My Visual Diary – 15 Years of Life in Germany, has been a bestseller for 20 years and has been reprinted more than 50 times. Thanks to her outstanding artistic achievements, she has received numerous awards both in China and abroad. Most recently, she was honoured as a member of the European Academy of Sciences and Arts.

在過去幾個月里,王小慧與30位設計大師以及30位頂級AIGC的創造者一起反復磨合,最終將這場獨特的展覽成功地呈現在大家面前。創作的過程并非一帆風順,她說:“很多設計師有想法,但未必懂技術,而技術人員又未必有想法。我們還是希望有一定的藝術高度,那么我就作為中間的翻譯和橋梁,同時也積極參與到作品的創作。”好在努力的結果令人欣慰。

In the months preceding the exhibition, Wang worked closely with 30 renowned designers and 30 top-tier AIGC creators, refining their collaborations to bring this unique event to life, although the creative process was far from smooth. Wang explains: “Many designers have ideas but lack the technical know-how, while tech experts might not fully grasp artistic concepts. We aimed for a high artistic standard, so I undertook the role of translator and bridge, whilst also actively contributing to the creation of the works.” Fortunately, this hard work paid off.

邵峰也對本次展覽的成果感到滿意:“這次展覽引起了業界不小的共鳴,讓我們的嘗試有了很好的回報!”當被問及明年是否會繼續合作時,王小慧表示,“如果邵總邀請,我就一定會來,他也和我一樣,希望時裝周能夠有新的表達,明年還會不會有更新的東西,我現在還不知道,大家可以期待一下”。

Feng Shao also expressed his satisfaction with the exhibition’s success: “This event resonated deeply within the industry, and our efforts were well rewarded.” When asked if she would collaborate again next year, Xiaohui Wang responded enthusiastically: “If Shao invites me, I shall definitely come. He, like me, hopes that Fashion Week finds new ways to express itself. Whether we will have even more innovative ideas next year, I cannot say yet, but you can certainly look forward to it!”

上海時裝周 Shanghai Fashion Week

上海時裝周,自1993年首次舉辦以來,已成功舉辦了21屆,2024年的觀眾人數超過26?000人。這一盛會不僅見證了中國時尚產業的成長,也逐漸擴大了其國際影響力,吸引了眾多國內外品牌的目光。在全球時尚產業活力指數排名中,上海時裝周已位列第四,成為亞洲乃至全球時尚界的重要盛事。

Since its debut in 1993, Shanghai Fashion Week has had 21 successful editions, welcoming over 26,000 attendees in 2024 alone. This grand event has not only witnessed the growth of China’s fashion industry, but has also expanded its international influence, catching the attention of many domestic and global brands. Ranked fourth in the Global Fashion Industry Vitality Index, Shanghai Fashion Week has established itself as a key event in the fashion world, both in Asia and globally.

如今,上海時裝周吸引了越來越多來自世界各地的時尚力量參與,包括法國、英國、美國、意大利等傳統時尚大國,以及格魯吉亞、烏拉圭和東南亞等新興時尚市場。例如,Stella McCartney出現在2024春夏上海時裝周,這是該品牌在亞太地區的首次亮相;而2025春夏上海時裝周則迎來了Vivienne Westwood、Moncler、HM、Dior、Chanel、Gucci等國際知名時尚品牌的參與。這些品牌的加入,不僅為上海時裝周帶來了最新的時尚趨勢,為本土時尚產業的發展提供了動力,同時也為國際品牌提供了一個展示和交流的舞臺。上海時裝周,以其開放的姿態,擁抱世界,擁抱未來。

Today, Shanghai Fashion Week attracts a growing number of fashion forces from around the world, including traditional fashion hubs such as France, the United Kingdom, the United States, and Italy, along with emerging markets such as Georgia, Uruguay, and Southeast Asia. For example, the brand Stella McCartney made its debut appearance in the AsiaPacific region during the 2024 Spring/Summer Shanghai Fashion Week. The 2025 Spring/ Summer edition will feature iconic international brands such as Vivienne Westwood, Moncler, HM, Dior, Chanel, and Gucci. The participation of these brands not only introduces the latest fashion trends to Shanghai, but also fuels the development of China’s domestic fashion industry. Meanwhile, it provides an excellent platform for international brands to showcase their work and engage with global audiences. With its open and inclusive spirit, Shanghai Fashion Week embraces the world and looks forward to the future.

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