紫光閣茶館：都市里的仙境

杭州曙光路是古城杭州一條頗有特色的街道，尤其是臨近西湖風景區那一段，兩邊茶館林立，氤氳四溢，杭州人稱它為茶館一條街，它是眼下杭州三大茶館特色街區之一。每當夜幕降臨，綠樹掩映下的曙光路彩燈閃爍，流光溢彩，迷離撲朔，充滿詩情畫意。

初春的一天，曙光路裹著一層薄薄的雪，踩在上面不時發出“沙沙”響聲，讓人感到雖然季節已進入春天，但仍有著隆冬的寒冷。我們開始不停地掃視著馬路兩旁，希望找個能夠避寒躲雨和溫馨的品茶之地。驀然間，我們被一串艷麗的大紅燈籠所吸引，細細一瞧，門楣上赫然寫著“紫光閣”三個蒼勁有力的大字。“紫光閣，是茶樓吧？”這讓人頗費思量，主人為何取這樣一個店名呢?

我們漫步走了進去，只見大門旁擺放著一把巨大的紫砂茶壺。紫砂壺旁站著那位亭亭玉立的小姐，看見顧客進門，便熱情地把我們引到開設在二樓的茶館。

通往二樓那樓梯旁的兩側墻上，懸掛著多幅江南水鄉風光的照片，其中有魯迅故里的紹興百草園、茅盾故里的烏鎮觀前街、豐子愷故里的石門緣緣堂等等，這些照片頓時為茶館增添了一份濃厚的文化色彩。我們推開一扇別致的小木門，忽聞門上風鈴丁當，發出一陣清脆聲音，宛若一首旋律優美的迎賓曲。進得門去，無論你身處茶館任何一個角落，你都能夠感受到茶館主人那種刻意營造的古樸幽雅、寧靜溫馨的茶館氛圍：那古樸細致的頂篷、精致美麗的吊燈、形態各異的根雕、年代悠久的木化石、芬芳四溢的花草……走進紫光閣茶樓，讓你一下子仿佛投身于大自然的懷抱之中，使你久處都市那繁雜喧鬧之中的心境漸漸地平靜下來。

一杯熱茶喝完，熱情好客而又十分健談的主人宣煥陽打開了話閘，將他開辦“紫光閣”茶館的初衷和曲折經歷向我們娓娓道來。出生在“絕代佳人”西施故里的他，1996年孑然一身來到杭州闖蕩，開始他在一家報社工作，平時除了工作、睡覺外，因為喜歡品茶，故他的休閑時間差不多皆“奉獻”給了茶館。天長日久，他開始萌發了自己開家茶館的念頭。“杭州是一個文化底蘊深厚的歷史文化名城，又擁有聞名于世的西湖，此外，還有虎跑水、龍井茶，這對開茶館是個得天獨厚的優越條件，也稱得上具備了天時、地利、人和……”主人侃侃而談。于是他在2002年夏季，租下了曙光路300平方米的一個兩層樓面，聘請中國美院的設計師進行設計，并且自己一人跑到鄉下，把人家老屋拆下來的破舊花窗、木門等當寶貝收購進來，還坐飛機到千里迢迢之外的貴州去購買木化石、工藝品等等。可以說，這座茶樓小到一顆螺絲大到擺設，無不凝結著主人的心血。我們從主人臉上的疲憊和瘦削，可以看出這座茶館從醞釀、創辦到站穩腳跟所付出的艱辛和汗水。

茶館裝修好了，關于館名的問題，原本主人想茶館開在曙光路就叫“曙光閣” 算了。但幾位好友說此名不夠雅致，于是大家紛紛出謀獻策，最后才冠以“紫光閣”美名，取紫氣東來之意。這個名字既讓人有一種含蓄、高貴的感覺，同時也符合這個茶館的文化氛圍。2003年2月2日紫光閣茶樓正式對外營業，慕名前來的客人絡繹不絕，生意紅火。直至今日，主人還為當初朋友們為他取了這樣的一個好店名而津津樂道。

返樸歸真，回歸自然，是紫光閣茶樓主人孜孜追求的目標。茶樓與西湖近在咫尺，臨窗而望，不遠處棲霞山巒起伏，松柏蔥郁，翠竹搖曳，景色如畫，頗有“雖居鬧市而有山林之趣”；茶館內則有蒼翠欲滴的盆景、蜿蜒紛披的藤蘿、古色古香的桌椅、造型奇特的木雕以及渾然古樸的木化石。在這樣的環境里沏上一杯香茗，將自己融入自然之中，讓人完全拋開煩雜和浮躁，享受真正的樂趣。由此，紫光閣漸漸成為許多茶客放松身心、輕松休閑的選擇之地。

紫光閣努力做好茶文章，茶樓的茶葉始終突出一個“野”字，可以說近70%的回頭客都是沖著這“野”字而來的。茶館主人一次出差武夷山，意外發現一種只有在農家才有的自制茶葉，經過打聽，得知這種茶葉采自海拔800米的高山密林中，它入口微苦，爾后卻漸漸散發出淡淡的甘味，沁人心脾，回味無窮。因為這種茶葉是在高山中自然生長的，它無污染、無公害，具有解暑、益氣之功效。于是主人將這種茶葉帶回茶館試泡，不僅頗受顧客喜愛，而且不少顧客臨走時還要買一點帶回家。從此，這種野生茶葉就成了茶館的一個品牌；杭州本地的拳頭產品龍井茶，一直占據著最受歡迎茶葉排行榜的頭把交椅，紫光閣茶館為了給西湖龍井茶提供一個展示的舞臺，讓更多愛好喝茶的人都能了解西湖龍井茶，每年清明節前夕，茶館主人就趕往西湖龍井茶的原產地之一梅家塢，與茶農同吃同住一個星期，在現場親眼目睹西湖龍井茶從采摘、烘焙、炒制整個過程全部完成，他才將新炒制的西湖龍井運回茶館。當來自各地的客人在品嘗了正宗的西湖龍井茶后臉上流露出滿意和高興的神情時，主人心里才感到欣慰和踏實。

上茶館喝茶，如今已經成為人們公認的一種休閑方式。為了茶客們休閑得有滋有味，紫光閣茶樓便按照春夏秋冬不同季節，精心準備許多可口的茶食茶點。秋季，主人早早回到老家山區挑選山核桃、香榧、野生圓栗等新山貨自制綠色茶點供客人品嘗；眼下春寒料峭，他又別出心裁地推出湯圓、米糕糖、酥餅等茶點，供客人選用。在書報架上，他擺下了省內外的多種報刊讓茶客們在喝茶中也能得到充分的精神享受。正因為有這樣的周到服務，故紫光閣茶館終日人頭濟濟，他們之中有文人雅士，也有學生和工人。浙江省作家協會把創作座談會也放在這里召開，他們說“紫光閣”會給他們帶來創作靈感；有的風景名勝區協會，把風景區規劃論證會也放在這里舉行，他們稱專家教授們在“紫光閣”會有更多的高見。

A Teahouse Named Violet Light

By Xiao Ying， Ying Hao

The western section of Shuguang Road in Hangzhou is just a stone's throw away from the West Lake. It is lined by so many exquisitely decorated teahouses that the road is now one of the Great Three Streets where teahouses gravitate. When night falls， teahouses there radiate quiet colored lights and make the avenue poetic.

We found Violet Light Teahouse one day in early spring. A light snow had just fallen and the air was chilly.

Wandering the streets， we looked around trying to find a snug place to hide ourselves from the coldness. Our eyes were attracted to a string of red lanterns. A close look revealed the three words on the door: Violet Light Pavilion. The name was written in bold， vigorous strokes.

A giant teapot stood right beside the door. A pretty girl stood right beside the teapot， smiling sweetly.

On our way up to a second-floor private room， we saw enlarged landscape photos on the walls: they revealed the unforgettable sights of historical interests in the southern part of the Yangtze River Delta. The door opened and we heard a wind bell tinkling. The room displayed a nice style. The roof brought back an ancient simplicity， the pendant lamp was exquisite， root sculptures presented different postures， wooden fossils indicated to an immemorial era， flowers emitted fragrance. We felt as if we were back to the bosom of the nature.

After a cup of hot tea， Xuan Huanyang， the owner of the teahouse， told us how he started this business.

He came to Hangzhou alone in 1996， trying his luck in the metropolis. He worked for a newspaper. After work， he would visit a teahouse to relax. Then he began to toy with the idea of running a teahouse of his own. The city has a long history and a rich cultural legacy. The West Lake is famed all over the country. It is as if Dragon Well Tea and Tiger Spring are tailor-made for a good cup of tea in a lakeside teahouse. There was no reason not to run a teahouse. So in the summer of 2002， he rented a two-story space of 300 square meters and asked a decorator from the China Arts Academy to design the decoration. He went back to his hometown and bought old windows and doors dismantled from old houses. He flew to Guizhou， a border province in southwestern China， and bought wood fossils and crafts by ethnic artists to stylize his teahouse.

Since it opened its door on February 2， 2003， Violet Light Pavilion has enjoyed a brisk business.

One big attraction is its surroundings. The teahouse is just a stone's throw to the lake and the verdant hill is even closer. Inside the house are evergreen vines and miniature landscapes in pots. Customers prefer the quietude that relieves them of the worldly worries.

Another feature of the teahouse is all its tea offerings are from the wilderness. Nearly 70% of the patrons come back for the special taste. One of the tea brands available there is from a tea garden at 800 meters above sea level in the Wuyi Mountain Range in Fujian Province. The owner tumbled into the tea when he was on a business trip in the mountains. Though it tastes a little bit bitter at first， the aftertaste is sweet. Xuan brought it back to his teahouse. It hit off immediately with customers. Many even buy the tea before they leave. Of course， the best tea offering is Dragon Well Tea produced in Hangzhou.

One week before Pure Brightness Festival* every year in April， Xuan goes to Meijiawu， a scenic mountainous village in the suburb of the West Lake where Dragon Well Tea is produced. He stays there for a week， supervising the tea farmers who process the tea his teahouse needs for the year. When he gets all the tea he comes back.

Drinking tea in a teahouse is now recognized as a way of whiling away the leisure time in the city. In order to give customers a good time， the Violet Light Pavilion offers refreshments for different seasons. Customers can also find newspapers and magazines there too. The teahouse attracts not only scholars but also students and ordinary workers. The provincial writers?association even holds forums here. Some developers of tourism sometimes choose to meet there to seek inspiration.

* April 4， 5 or 6， when Chinese people traditionally visit their ancestral burial mounds.