歷代名人與杭幫菜

杭菜歷史悠久，有深厚的文化底蘊。除了歷史上幾個大事件，如宋室南遷對杭菜的形成有著決定性的影響之外，歷代文人對杭菜的關注也起了至關重要的作用。

他們的作用體現在：一，用文字記載了當時餐飲業的盛況、記錄一些菜肴的名稱，特別是以《夢粱錄》最為著稱；二，從高于一般消費者欣賞水平的角度，總結了以往的餐飲經驗，如林洪的《山家清供》等；三，在個人的詩文著作里反映自己的飲食觀念，這對當時和后代的餐飲經營和消費也產生了影響，如蘇東坡、陸游等；四，由于名人的名氣，民間真真假假流傳著他們與美食的故事，給餐飲增添了文化氣息和趣味性，如東坡肉的來歷傳聞；五，出版關于餐飲的專著，如袁枚的《隨園食單》、李漁的《閑情偶寄#8226;飲饌部》等。

在影響杭菜的眾多的文人中，最值得一提的是蘇東坡、李漁、袁枚、魯迅。

蘇東坡的影響最深廣

在如今的36個杭州名菜中，東坡肉總能勾人食欲。

蘇東坡(1037-1101)名軾，號東坡居士，是我國歷史上著名的文學家，曾兩次到杭州擔任地方官。第一次是熙寧四年(1071)，任通判(一州的副長官)；第二次是元四年(1089)，任知州(市長)。他任職期間對杭州進行了綜合治理，特別是對西湖的治理更是立下功勞，蘇堤便是利用湖中淤泥所筑，在蘇堤的南端還建有蘇東坡紀念館。

東坡肉、東坡魚、東坡酒、東坡筍……，自11世紀以來，蘇東坡在中國美食界聲譽卓著。東坡肉的傳說有很多版本，傳說他任杭州任知州時，曾用豬肉、黃酒犒勞疏浚西湖的民工，民工誤解而把黃酒、豬肉放在一起煮，結果此肉酥糯可口，其香無比，因而便成了杭州的36個名菜之一，冠名為“東坡肉”。

蘇東坡在江浙、中州、南粵各地任過官吏，嘗遍了各地的肴饌，寫下了《菜羹賦》《食豬肉詩》《豆粥》《鯨魚行》以及著名的《老饞賦》等。他在自己的詩作中以老饞嘴自居，這生動地反映了他對飲食烹調的濃厚興趣和品嘗佳肴美味的豐富經驗。蘇東坡除了善于品嘗外，還經常自己動手烹飪佳肴。據宋代周紫芝《竹坡詩話》記載，蘇東坡被貶謫到黃岡時，不時下廚勞作，他見黃岡市面豬肉價賤，而人們較少吃它，便親自烹調豬肉，吃得津津有味。蘇東坡烹制魚羹頗為在行，并自稱在家鄉時常親執熗煮魚以待客。他的素食也做得不錯，曾用蘆菔白米做過“玉糝羹”，自稱其味之佳可與西天的醍醐媲美。

正因為蘇東坡與飲食有如此的緣分，所以相傳與他有關的名饌不少，用他名字命名的菜肴更多，如“東坡肘子”、“東坡豆腐”、“東坡玉糝”、“東坡腿”、“東坡芽膾”、“東坡墨鯉”、“東坡餅”、“東坡酥”、“東坡豆花”、“東坡肉”等等。這些菜點或多或少都對杭菜產生了影響。

李漁主張清淡忌油

明末清初的戲劇家李漁是半個杭州人。他年輕時來杭州開始了賣文生涯，數年間連續寫出了《憐香伴》《風箏誤》《意中緣》《玉搔頭》等六部傳奇及《無聲戲》《十二樓》兩部白話短篇小說集，在杭州坊間一下子就響了名聲，而且連南京、蘇州也都流傳著他的傳奇作品。連他的筆名“湖上笠翁”，也與西湖關系密切。

李漁在1662年左右離開杭州，舉家遷往金陵。經過幾十年的奔走，身心勞累、年近古稀的李漁又回到了西湖邊上。此后他再也不想走了，想在西子湖畔安享晚年，不想沒有過上幾天安閑的日子，新屋造好不久，便在一個大雪紛飛的凌晨安然地閉上了眼睛。

一生貧困疲于奔命的李漁不像蘇東坡那樣精于美食，但他對飲食還是有超人的見解，其精華是重蔬食、崇儉約、尚真味、主清淡、忌油膩、講潔美、慎殺生、求食益，這些見解體現在他的重要著作《閑情偶寄》“飲饌部”里。300年后的今天，這種飲食之道仍然有指導意義，可以說是一種科學的養生之道和人生觀。

李漁反對那些為追求自己一嘴之貪，動不動就射殺飛禽走獸制作菜肴的饕餮之徒。“獸之死也，死于人；禽之斃也，斃于己。食野味者，當作如是觀。惜禽而更當惜獸，以其取死之道為可原也。”李漁也并不認為“野味”的味道怎么好，他認為：“野味之遜于家味者，以其不能盡肥；家味之遜于野味者，以其不能有香也。家味之肥，肥于不自覓食而安享其成；野味之香，香于草木為家而行止自若。是知豐衣美食，逸處安居，肥人之事也；流水，高山，奇花異木，香人之物也?！崩顫O始終認為蔬菜是最上等的美食?！拔釣轱嬍持溃挷蝗缛?，肉不如蔬，亦以其漸近自然也?！边@一見解至今沒有過時。

杭菜的特色與李漁的飲食之道有極大的相似之處。杭菜的原料多蔬菜、筍類、河鮮，講究葷素搭配；杭菜的口味崇尚清淡，不重油重色，講究原汁原味；杭菜原料中基本上沒有“鳥獸蛇蟲”之類的野生動物，這些科學飲食的特色，使得杭菜在我國的大小菜系中獨樹一幟。近年來杭菜之所以名揚全國，這也是一個原因，由此可以說，李漁對杭菜功不可沒。

李漁是終老在杭州的，據說安葬在云居山，但現在毫無遺跡可尋。上世紀70年代曾有人在杭州云居山之麓的一個公用食堂水池邊看到過一塊墊腳的青石正是李漁的墓碑，但后來也就不見了。

袁枚精撰《隨園食單》

近日，杭州有幾家餐館推出了酒糟蒸鰣魚這道菜，口味新穎，大獲好評。這些店家都自詡是自家研制的，但業內專家對此說不以為然，因為這道菜在袁枚的《隨園食單》早有介紹，應該說是一道傳統名菜。

《隨園食單》“江鮮單”中的第二道菜就是鰣魚：“鰣魚用蜜酒蒸食，如治刀魚之法便佳，或用油煎，加醬，酒釀亦佳。萬不可切成碎塊加雞湯煮，或去其背專取肚皮，則真味全失矣?！比缃窈贾莸膹N師烹制鰣魚，基本上沒有把魚切成碎塊的，也沒有專取肚皮的，看來，袁枚的主張古今廚師都依此辦理，沒有逾矩。

袁枚是清代乾隆、嘉慶時期的代表詩人之一，與趙翼、蔣士銓并稱乾隆三大家。他活躍詩壇60余年，存詩4000余首。

在吟詩作畫之外，袁枚還是一位有豐富經驗的美食家、烹飪學家。他所著的《隨園食單》一書，是我國清代一部系統地論述烹飪技術和南北菜點的重要著作。該書出版于1792年(乾隆五十七年)，全書分為須知單、戒單、海鮮單、江鮮單、特牲單、雜牲單、羽族單、水族有鱗單、水族無鱗單、雜素單、小菜單、點心單、飯粥單和菜酒單等14個方面。他在須知單中提出了既全且嚴的20個操作要求，在戒單中提出了14個注意事項。接著，用大量的篇幅詳細記述了我國從14世紀至18世紀中流行的326種南北菜肴飯點，也介紹了當時的美酒名茶。

近日，杭菜研究會召集專家準備出版一本品味杭州菜的專著，專家都談到了宋室南遷對杭菜的影響，但一致認為歷代文人對杭菜的貢獻不能忽視，特別是袁枚，他對杭菜的影響至今仍在。眼下的很多杭州名菜其實在他的《隨園食單》里都有介紹，比如蜜汁火方、生炒甲魚、西湖醋魚、土步魚、鹵鴨、素燒鵝、宋嫂魚羹等等。當然他對這些菜肴并非一味贊賞，比如對宋嫂魚羹做濫了就表示過擔憂。

《隨園食單》中的菜肴并非信手拈來，多數經過反復比較才入選，有的還花費了大力氣，比如幾道豆腐菜肴，袁枚是從蔣侍郎、楊中丞、王太守、程立萬等人的家里學來的，有的甚至“三顧茅廬”才得到真傳。如果沒有袁枚的這番心血，杭州名菜也許至今不會這么豐富。

魯迅鐘情“知味觀”

魯迅與知味觀關系密切，可能與他出生于浙江紹興有關。

杭州知味觀于1913年開業，原由紹興人孫翼齋和阿義創辦，后由孫翼齋獨資經營，并按“欲知我味，觀料便知”的店幅取名“知味觀”，以經營杭州風味菜為特色，主要名菜有“西湖醋魚”、“龍井蝦仁”、“叫化童雞”、“西湖莼菜湯”等。

既然是紹興人開的餐館，所以經營的菜肴里有不少紹興風味，比如用酒糟浸漬雞塊、肚片、豬舌、雞爪、豬爪等等，店小二將這些糟貨盛在陶缽中，名為“糟缽頭”。這些糟貨至今仍然是知味觀的招牌菜，而且被真空包裝，進行工業化生產，還通過超市網絡遠銷省內外。此外，紹興的傳統名菜霉干菜燒肉、臭豆腐、醉雞、醉蝦，即紹興菜中的“糟、醉、霉、臭”知味觀一個不少。這些菜受到杭州人、紹興人喜愛，魯迅也不例外。

“知味觀”歷史上最引以為自豪的，是它和魯迅的交往。魯迅生前為了同國內文化界人士加強聯系，促進中外人民友誼與國際文化交流，經常在“知味觀”設筵宴客，有時還請這家菜館廚師到自己家里燒家鄉菜招待朋友。在1932年至1934年的三年間，魯迅到“知味觀”宴請友人達六七次之多。1932年7月3日晚，魯迅和夫人許廣平在“知味觀”設宴為日本進步女歌手山本初枝夫人餞行，互贈詩詞，魯迅在日記中提到她的名字就有120多次。1933年，魯迅寓所搬到上海山陰路大陸新村九號不久，為答謝友人的幫助，他又親自到“知味觀”預訂酒席，在1933年4月20日和4月23日晚上，還接連兩次宴請酬謝友人，著名作家茅盾、郁達夫、姚克等都應邀前往。魯迅親筆書寫的邀請姚克出席宴會的請貼，至今還被完整地保存著，這張請帖是“知味觀”所制，非常精美。

如今，喜歡來“知味觀”品嘗佳肴的浙江籍海外華僑、港澳同胞，面對傳統的叫化童雞、西湖醋魚、宋嫂魚羹等菜肴，以及創新的知味觀名菜金牌銀鱈魚、蟹釀橙、武林熬鴨等，就會很自然地想起“三秋桂子，十里荷花”的詩句。在重新恢復的楊公堤景區，現在又出現了一家知味觀楊公堤味莊，使得知味觀與西湖更加貼近了，也更增加了吸引天下游客的魅力。

Historical Personages and Hangzhou Cuisine

By Lu Yinxian

Hangzhou cuisine dates back to a long time ago and it is steeped in cultural heritage. In addition to a few historical events such as the Royal House of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) that moved to Hangzhou and had a decisive role in shaping the local cuisine， scholars， over centuries， helped Hangzhou cuisine became what it is today.

Scholars in the history helped shape Hangzhou cuisine in five ways. They recorded the grand prosperity of the restaurant business of their days and even jotted down names of some famous dishes; as classy gourmets， they summarized features of local cuisine; they discussed their personal preferences and views on wine and dine; there are stories about scholars and food; and they published books on food.

Of the scholars who had profound influence on Hangzhou cuisine are Su Dongpo， Li Yu， Yuan Mei， and Lu Xun.

Su Dongpo (1037-1101) is a famous literary master. He served as a city magistrate in 1071 and 1089 respectively. Though each of his term was only one year， he did a lot to improve the local life and economy. In particular， he had the West Lake bottom dredged and the silt dredged up was built into a Causeway， which still carries his name today. As a prominent epicure， he was the very source of many gourmet dishes. Dongpo Pork， one of the 36 local dishes， is named after him. Legend has it that he sent the rice wine and pork to workers dredging the West Lake. Mistakenly， the rice wine and pork were cooked together. The result was an unexpected delicacy. Su also wrote poems on gourmet dishes and described his epicurean pleasures. Thanks to his reputation， many dishes carry his name even today. These dishes have shaped Hangzhou cuisine.

Li Yu can be regarded as a 50% Hangzhou local. He came to Hangzhou as a young writer seeking literary fame. The six legends and two collections of short stories he wrote during his stay in Hangzhou made him famous in the city. His reputation spread to Suzhou and Nanjing. He left Hangzhou for Jinling in 1662 in the hope of finding a better career. But he came back to Hangzhou to spend his evening years. Though Li Yu， unlike Su Dongpo who was able to enjoy gourmet dishes， spent his life in poverty， he had original ideas on food: He emphasized vegetables， abstained from fatty and oily food， wanted light food， objected to killing animals and poultry， and went after healthy benefits in food. He wrote these ideas in his book. Li Yu’s dietary principles play an important part in Hangzhou cuisine. Even today， ingredients of the famous dishes are mainly vegetables， bamboo shoots， fish and shrimp. Hangzhou cuisine features light dishes that keep the original taste. They are prepared without too much fat， oil and seasoning. And the traditional menu does not contain wildlife such as birds， animals， snakes， and insects. This makes Hangzhou-styled food quite unique in the country. And this is also partly why Hangzhou cuisine has become popular across the country in recent years.

Yuan Mei was a representative poet in the Qing Dynasty (1944-1911). An active poet for over 60 years， he composed more than 4，000 poems. He was more than a poet. He was an experienced chef and epicurean. In 1792， he published Menus from the Garden of Leisure， an important systematic summary of culinary art and cuisines in northern and southern China in the Qing Dynasty. The book discussed the culinary art and food categories in fourteen chapters. He came up with 20 operating rules in one chapter and 14 points for attention in another chapter. The dishes recorded in the book amounted to 326 that were popular in China from 14th century to 18the century. What is discussed in the book is still popular on today’s restaurant menus across the city. What came into the book was not merely information the scholar picked up here and there. Yuan Mei did field studies and learned from other masters. For example， the book has information on several tofu dishes. He learned these dishes from chefs from social celebrities. To cook some tofu dishes， he even visited a chef several times before he learned the secret.

The name of Lu Xun was closely associated with one restaurant in Hangzhou. That was probably because the writer’s hometown coincided with that of the restaurant owners.

Zhiweiguan Restaurant was founded in Hangzhou in 1913 by two people from Shaoxing. Though the restaurant featured Hangzhou dishes， it had a lot of Shaoxing styled dishes pickled with wine and contained in small pottery pots. These wine-pickled dishes are still signature dishes of the restaurant. They are even now mass produced in vacuum packs and sold in supermarkets across the country. Lu Xun entertained his guests at Zhiweiguan restaurant. And sometimes the restaurant sent its chefs to prepare a banquet at Lu Xun’s house in Shanghai.

(Translated by David)