感受“神秘的俄羅斯之魂”

St.Petersburg. The very name brings to mind some of Russia's greatest poets， writers and composers: Pushkin， Dostoevsky， and Tchaikovsky. The 19th century was a golden age for St. Petersburg's wealthy classes. It was a world of ballets and balls， of art and literature， of tea and caviar.

圣彼得堡，只要提到這個名字就讓人想起那些俄國最偉大的詩人、作家以及作曲家：普希金、杜斯妥耶夫斯基、柴可夫斯基。對圣彼得堡的富有階級來說，19世紀是一段黃金歲月。那是一個充滿了芭蕾舞和舞會、藝術和文學、茶和魚子醬的世界。

The golden age ended with the advent of World WarⅠ. Working people were growing more and more discontented. In 1917， Communism came， promising peace and prosperity.

這段黃金歲月因為第一次世界大戰的來臨而結束。工人階級的不滿愈來愈高漲。1917年，共產黨來了，并向人民保證和平與繁榮。

St. Petersburg had become Petrograd in 1914. People wanted a Russian name for their city. Ten years later， the city's name changed again， this time to Leningrad. Then in 1991， Leningraders voted to restore the city's original name. Some people opposed the name change altogether. Others thought it was just too soon. Old， run-down Soviet Leningrad， they said， was not the St. Petersburg of 19th-century literature.

圣彼得堡在1914年變成彼得格勒。人們想為這個城市取個俄國名字。10年之后，這個城市的名字又改了，這一次叫做列寧格勒。然后在1991年，列寧格勒的居民投票恢復了此城最初的名字。有些人徹底反對改名字，有些人認為名字改得太快了。他們說老舊的蘇維埃列寧格勒已不再是19世紀的圣彼得堡了。

What， then， is St. Petersburg? In the confusing post-Communist world， no one really knows. The quiet， if Soviet-style， dignity is gone. The Communist sayings are down and gaudy advertising up. Candy bars and cigarettes are sold from boxy， tasteless kiosks. And clothing? Well， anything goes. Everyone wants to be a little different. But many people do not know the true meaning of freedom. Personal crime has gone up， up， up in the past few years.

那么，到底圣彼得堡是什么呢？在共產黨結束執政后的令人困惑的情形下，沒有人真正知道這個答案。那種安靜卻又無聊的蘇維埃式的尊嚴已經成為過去了。共產黨的標語被換了下來，代之以俗氣的廣告。那些四方形、沒有品味的攤子出售糖果和香芋。至于穿著呢？嗯，任何樣式都有。每個人都想要有點與眾不同。但是許多人仍然不知道自由的真意是什么。在過去數年里，個人犯罪率一直不斷上升。

Yet in spite of this， you can still find some of the city's grand past. Stand at the western tip of Vasilievsky Island. To the right is theelegant Winter Palace， former home of the czars. Its light blue sides and white classical columns make it perhaps St. Petersburg's most graceful building. It houses one of the world's most famous art museums: the Hermitage. Inside， 20km of galleries house thousands of works of art. Look over your right shoulder. The massive golden dome of St. Isaac's Cathedral rises above the skyline. You'll see， too， why St. Petersburg is called a \"floating city\". Standing there， nearly surrounded by water， you can see four of the city's 42 islands.

但是，盡管如此，你還是可以找到一些這個城市輝煌的過去。站在維絲利瓦斯基島的西端，右邊是優雅的冬宮，是沙皇從前的住處。它那淺藍色的外墻和白色古典的圓柱，使它成為大概是圣彼得堡中最優雅的建筑物。它里面有世界上最有名的藝術博物館：赫米提巨博物館。在里面，長達20公里的藝廊收藏了數千件的藝術作品。朝你右肩后方看去，圣以撒大教堂巨大的金制圓頂伸入了天空。你也會了解，為什么圣彼得堡又被稱為“漂浮的城市”。站在那里，幾乎完全被水環繞，你可以看見這座城市42個島嶼中的4個。

Cross the bridge and turn behind the Winter Palace. In the middle of the huge Palace Square stands the Alexander Column. It commemorates Russia's victory over Napoleon. The 650-ton granite column is not attached to the base in any way. Its own weight keeps it upright. Hoisted into place in 1832， it has stood there ever since.

過了橋轉到冬宮的后面，巨大的冬宮廣場中間豎立著亞歷山大圓柱。它是為了紀念俄國和拿破侖交戰的勝利。這個650噸的花崗石圓柱底部并未用任何方式固定，底部也無任何支撐。自1832年被豎立起來之后，便一直站立在那里。

Continue to Nevsky Prospekt， the heart of the old city. Let the crowds hurry by while you take your time. Admire the fine carving on bridges and columns， above doorways and windows. Cross over canals and pass by smaller palaces and other classical structures. Let your eyes drink in the light blues， greens， yellows and pinks.

繼續走，到納瓦斯基街，這個老城市的中心。你悠閑地漫步，人群從你身旁匆匆走過。欣賞那些在橋上和圓柱上，門口以及窗欞上的精致雕刻。穿過運河并經過較小的皇宮以及其他的古典建筑物。讓你的眼睛飽享淡藍、青綠、黃色和粉紅色。

Take time to wander among Kazan Cathedral's semi circle of enormous brown columns. Or， if you prefer Russian-style architecture， cross the street and follow the canal a short distance. The Church of the Resurrection occupies the site where Czar Alexander Ⅱwas assassinated in 1881.

花些時間漫步于喀山大教堂里巨大的棕色圓柱所圍成的半圓形之間。或者，如果你喜歡俄國樣式的建筑，穿過馬路并隨著運河走一段短距離的路。復活教會正好位于沙皇亞歷山大二世在1881年被暗殺的地方。

Travel outside the city to Petrodvorets Palace for a taste of old imperial grandeur. After a visit to France in the late 17th century， Peter the Great decided to build a palace for himself better than Versailles. His dream never came true in his lifetime. It took almost two centuries to complete the palace and park complex.

離開市區往彼得城方向游覽，一嘗古老皇宮富麗堂皇的風味。彼得大帝于17世紀末到法國游覽了一趟后，決定要為自己蓋一座比凡爾賽宮還好的皇宮。在他有生之年，這個夢想一直沒有實現。皇宮和公園的復合建筑幾乎花了兩個世紀才完成。

Seldom does any city have the chance to reinvent itself. That chance has now come to St. Petersburg. A few people might hope to return to the glory of the past， but most know that is impossible. They want to preserve the best of past eras and push ahead. You can bet the city won't be old St. Petersburg， but something altogether different.

很少有城市有機會再創造自己，這個機會現在降臨到了圣彼得堡。有些人可能希望回到過去的榮耀里，但是大多數人知道那是不可能的。他們希望能將過去年代中的精華保留住，并繼續向前。可以打賭，這個城市將不再是老圣彼得堡，而是一個完全不同的城市。

能說會用

elegant: a. 優雅的， 端莊的， 高雅的

Her manner is elegant.

她的舉止優雅。

She adopted an elegant pose.

她擺了一個優美的姿勢。

◆編輯：丁俊玲