拯救印尼雨林的中國女孩

印尼雨林與亞馬遜原始森林、剛果原始森林，并稱為世界上三大熱帶雨林。這里不僅生長著白木、加里曼丹鐵木、檀木等名貴木材，還是紅猩猩、蘇門答臘虎等珍稀野生動物的家園。然而近年來由于砍伐，印尼的熱帶雨林正在減少。一位加入國際綠色和平組織的中國女孩，勇敢地冒著生命危險拯救印尼雨林……被國際媒體譽為“環(huán)保斗士”！

在“綠色和平”找到家

性格熱情活潑的楊婕，是北京一家大公司的高級白領(lǐng)。向來喜歡挑戰(zhàn)的楊婕，說自己久居都市對森林充滿了向往，如果能像生物學(xué)家那樣，每天與各種美麗的植物打交道，與野生動物“交流”，那該是一件多么愜意的事！

2009年一個偶然的機會，楊婕有幸邂逅了國際綠色和平組織，她便毫不猶豫地辭去工作，成了其中的一員。不久就有了去印度尼西亞原始森林建立“氣候保護站”的機會。當(dāng)時包括中國在內(nèi)的12個國家的“綠色和平”志愿者，被派往森林破壞嚴重的蘇門答臘島，幫助當(dāng)?shù)卦∶褡o林。

2009年11月初，楊婕和隊友登上了著名的“希望號”考察船。該船是綠色和平全球船隊的一員，曾因攔截日本捕鯨船而聞名。它的甲板上還停放著一架小型直升機。

船長是位曬得很黑的白人女性，40來歲，金色的頭發(fā)，淺色的眼睛，笑起來十分迷人。見到楊婕，這位船上的大姐大，竟然用生硬的漢語幽默地說了句“歡迎來自北京的女孩”。

楊婕發(fā)現(xiàn)，綠色和平船上船員們的生活方式都是節(jié)能和環(huán)保的。這里，垃圾要分類，洗澡時用水的時間不能超過三分鐘。每個人參加義務(wù)勞動。船上的咖啡廳沒有售貨員，一些需要花錢的酒水飲料自用自拿，然后在單子上簽一下，將來航行結(jié)束的時候自己埋單就可以了。

經(jīng)過一路顛簸，“希望號”停靠在了蘇門答臘島碼頭上，并受到當(dāng)?shù)厝说臒崆闅g迎。

楊婕第一次執(zhí)行任務(wù)，是收集伐木公司毀林的證據(jù)。當(dāng)時她坐在直升機上負責(zé)攝像。一片大片生長了成百上千年的原始森林被砍伐。砍過的地方，一片狼藉。一望無際的野地上堆著伐倒的樹木。附近還沒有被砍伐過的熱帶原始森林，郁郁蔥蔥，生機勃勃。有的大樹高達幾十米，遠遠地看去真是壯觀而美麗。但是凡是采伐過的地方，卻全都像得了斑禿或者牛皮癬，雨林中居然還有一個煙霧彌漫、怪味熏天的一個什么加工廠。

飛機在雨林上空盤旋了將近三個小時，楊婕不斷地拍攝，希望自己能夠把這里的一切記錄下來，讓更多的人知道和清醒過來。人類如果不能控制自己的貪婪，這筆賬早晚要由自己埋單。

打響“雨林保衛(wèi)戰(zhàn)”

楊婕說，由于得天獨厚的自然條件，印尼的森林覆蓋了70％的國土。可是近年來由于國際市場對實木家具、地板和紙張的需求日趨增大，使該國原始森林遭到毀壞。

一天，楊婕帶著4名同事來到離營地大約l小時車程的毀林現(xiàn)場。幾名志愿者向泥炭地的深處一腳深一腳淺地艱難走去，短短500米的路費了一個多小時的時間。路況極其惡劣，一不小心就會陷到泥地里去。每個人都汗流浹背，熱帶的太陽曬在臉上和胳膊上火辣辣的，即使涂了防曬霜也無濟于事。就在這里，楊婕和志愿者拉起橫幅，譴責(zé)為了利益而破壞環(huán)境的某些木材商。“森林破壞，氣候犯罪”，這代表著綠色和平組織對毀林人的斥責(zé)與控訴。這個抗議場面，被美國CNN等多家媒體記者拍攝了下來，很快就傳遍了全世界。

為什么森林破壞等于氣候犯罪?楊婕說，被破壞掉的森林是泥炭地森林，它們是保護環(huán)境的超人，它吸納溫室氣體的能力是普通森林的十倍。

不久，楊婕他們又參加了“綠色和平”安排的修建堤壩工作。挖水渠，打木樁，填沙袋，在40度的烈日下干著強體力重活，還要忍受蚊叮蟲咬，那滋味可想而知。沒幾天，楊婕就變成了“黑人”，手上磨出好多泡，一破鉆心地疼。可工程結(jié)束后，當(dāng)她看到引來的泥炭水又興奮異常。正是因為泥炭地儲存的水量讓數(shù)億噸的炭得以存留在土地里，讓土地肥沃并充滿著生機，這個水就是森林的血脈，沒有了它，土地將等著被焚燒的命運而死去。

那天，楊婕和隊友沿著毀林地里一條人踩出來的小路向前走著，不知不覺之間，竟聽到了鳥叫聲，眼前隨之綠意盎然。他們很興奮地走進森林中，昂頭欣賞無數(shù)參天大樹，猶如進入夢游般的景象。

楊婕說，全世界90％的棕櫚油產(chǎn)自印尼和馬來西亞，近年來由于其價格不斷攀升，一些大型跨國公司就通過不正當(dāng)手段，以“油棕種植園”名義獲得原始森林地。他們先是砍伐掉大量的珍貴硬木，出口賣很高的價錢，再將不太值錢的木料用于制漿造紙。然后一把火將樹樁和小灌木等燒為灰燼，再種上棕櫚樹的幼苗，對當(dāng)?shù)刈匀簧鷳B(tài)造成極大破壞。而這些財大氣粗的家伙又非常蠻橫，有時根本不把綠色和平組織的人放在眼里，甚至公然威脅、毆打志愿者。

一次一家棕櫚油公司砍伐雨林，楊婕和幾名同事為了表示抗議，把自己鎖在正在摧毀森林的七臺挖掘設(shè)備上。雖然當(dāng)時天氣十分炎熱，蚊蟲成群，他們?nèi)怨钠鹩職猓芙^離開機器，直至當(dāng)?shù)鼐熠s來，志愿者才終止了抗議行動。楊婕說，綠色和平組織希望以這類“非暴力抗議活動”喚起國際社會的關(guān)注。

珍愛我們的地球家園

幾個月時間里，楊婕一行在天堂雨林拍攝了大量的采伐現(xiàn)場。在揭露和阻止非法砍伐行徑之余，她還對一些鄉(xiāng)村進行了訪問，了解當(dāng)?shù)赝林用竦恼鎸嵲竿蛩麄冃麄鳝h(huán)保知識。

在坎帕半島的沙壩村，漁民丹尼告訴楊婕，隨著原始森林被砍伐，清澈的河水遭到污染，過去他一個月能捕到180多公斤魚，現(xiàn)在只能捕到30公斤，每月開銷為100萬印尼盾(約800元人民幣)的他經(jīng)常入不敷出。如今，丹尼在森林中放置了4個鳥籠，希望能捕獲一種名叫“Murai·daun”的鳥。這是一種瀕臨絕種的鳥，在當(dāng)?shù)氐镍B交易市場，每只售價高達400萬印尼盾。楊婕在丹尼的小木屋看到兩只“Murai·daun”，那是一種全身翠綠，鳴聲悅耳的小鳥。丹尼說：“讓它們離開家園是殘忍的。不到萬不得已，我不會賣它們。”

走了很遠的行程，這位中國女孩一共碰到與丹尼一樣的原住民不超過10個，足見這片原始森林的隱蔽和神秘。在原始森林，比原住民更神秘的，是在森林里生活了幾千年的土著部落。據(jù)當(dāng)?shù)鼐ㄔ疾柯湔Z言的村民介紹，由于近幾年毀林，原始部落只得搬遷。

坎帕半島是包括蘇門答臘虎、紅猩猩等瀕危滅絕物種最后僅存的棲息地之一。紅猩猩，通體紅色發(fā)亮的毛發(fā)，眼珠滾圓，個子嬌小。科學(xué)家認為它們是世界上最聰明的動物之一。村民告訴楊婕，由于當(dāng)?shù)貧Я直容^嚴重，于是越來越多的野生紅猩猩被迫逃走。每當(dāng)森林發(fā)生火災(zāi)、人為砍伐或其他災(zāi)難的時候，它們就會集體咆哮。與之同時，由于漿紙種植園大規(guī)模侵蝕了這批僅存的泥潭森林，造成了蘇門答臘虎的棲息地被毀，每一年都有10多人因為受到蘇門答臘虎的襲擊而死亡。

在有1600名居民的Teluk Meranti村，村長優(yōu)素福告訴楊婕：“我無法再失去森林。”近幾年，他曾多次給印尼有關(guān)部門寫信。去年12月，美國駐印尼大使前往村里視察，優(yōu)素福撲通一聲，跪倒在大使面前，老淚縱橫，期待這個異國人幫助。他告訴楊婕，如今他相信只有諸如“綠色和平”這類NGO組織和國際人士能夠幫助他們保護森林。

“如果你有十分鐘時間，和美國總統(tǒng)奧巴馬面對面站在坎帕半島熱帶雨林，你會對他說什么?”在場的一位中國女記者問優(yōu)素福。

“我會說，總統(tǒng)先生，您也曾在這片土地上生活過，你應(yīng)該能感受到，原始森林是有力量的，不可侵犯的。它不僅是當(dāng)?shù)乩习傩盏摹小矔邮a世界上所有的人!”

未遭破壞的熱帶雨林，又有著怎樣的景色?帶著探險心理，楊婕決定乘一艘小船去密林深處考察。“當(dāng)我們順著坎帕河一直往北走大約3小時后，河道漸漸變得窄小起來，但是河岸兩旁的植被變得越發(fā)濃密，聽到了更多的鳥叫聲。”不久河面上出現(xiàn)大片浮游植物，據(jù)說當(dāng)?shù)卦∶癫烧鼈冏鍪卟顺浴Ｑ睾拥涝偻白撸影秲膳缘闹参锒季薮鬅o比，一小塊地上就生活著十幾種不同的植物和樹木，且一些樹木高達30米。還不時看到猴子在樹頂上摘野果吃。11個小時后他們到達了美麗的Serkan湖，寬廣而平靜的湖面被雨林環(huán)繞和保護著。夕陽慵懶地灑落在湖面上，整個意境頓時讓志愿者們神清氣爽，仿佛置身于天堂中。楊婕和一位瑞典美女?dāng)z影師，在大口呼吸新鮮空氣的同時還拼命拍攝，這景色真美得令人心醉。

2010年春天，從印尼回到北京不久，楊婕就寫出了長篇調(diào)查報告《流淚的天堂雨林》，以圖文并茂的形式，全面披露了破壞雨林的行為，在世界范圍內(nèi)引起關(guān)注。西方媒體稱贊她是來自中國的“環(huán)保斗士”。

不久，全球最大的棕櫚油用戶“聯(lián)合利華”公司宣布：不再從破壞原始森林的供應(yīng)商那里采購原料。世界最大紙張供應(yīng)商之一的upm，也立即取消與印尼毀林大戶亞太漿紙的一切供貨合同；許多500強企業(yè)紛紛致函印尼政府，要求他們采取措施有效阻止毀壞森林；一些國家首腦還積極探討，每年拿出大批錢設(shè)立專項基金，拯救世界最后的三大雨林！

2010年8月下旬，優(yōu)素福村長寫信告訴楊婕，印尼政府已在蘇門答臘島上的廖內(nèi)省實施“臨時禁伐令”。今后毀林者還將受到嚴懲。獲此消息，這位中國女孩開心地笑了。

Chinese Girl in Action to Save Rain Forest in Indonesia

By Mu Zi

Before Yang Jie joined Green Peace and went to Indonesia， she was a white-collar worker in a big company based in Beijing. A girl of fashion， she dreamed of forest and adventures. In 2009， she happened to meet someone from Greenpeace International. She resigned her job and joined the environmental protection organization.

Her first assignment was to work at a climate protection station in the primitive forest in Sumatra， a large island of Indonesia where tropic forests were being destroyed at a fast rate. Yang Jie and her 11 colleagues were sent there to help local residents protest and stop deforestation activities.

The mission set out in early November 2009 aboard The Esperanza， the famous and the largest vessel in the Greenpeace fleet. Yang found the voyage eye-opening. The lifestyle on the ship is energy-efficient and environmentally friendly. The rubbish must be sorted; while taking a bath， one can’t use water for more than three minutes; everyone must work on the ship voluntarily; the café has no service people; you take whatever takes your fancy and sign a bill and you pay up in one lump sum at the end of your voyage. Yang Jie found it pleasant to travel with noble-minded people: you never worry about your personal belongings.

One night on the journey toward Indonesia， Yang was not able to sleep. So she went onto the deck. To her great surprise， she found the night watcher was a 20-something girl. She patrolled every one hour. The Green Peace people watched out for possible attack of pirates in the Malacca Straits， where pirates are a public hazard. Though pirates are usually\\ not interested in Green Peace ships， Hope shut off deck lights anyway and sailed at top speed to pass the strait of trouble.

Yang’s first task was to collect evidence of deforestation made by lumber companies. They went by helicopter and she worked the camera. What she saw was shocking and horrifying. Now many multinational companies use machines to fell trees. After trees are felled， the companies use diggers to dig into the soil to remove roots; a fire is then set to burn all the bushes so that the ground can be prepared for planting palm trees， the source of palm oil， which is highly demanded on international market. The land is ravaged where trees are gone. The helicopter toured over such sites. She photographed the evidence.

According to Yang， the forest coverage rate in Indonesia used to be 70%. As international demand on timber is increasing more and more for making furniture， floorboards and paper， forests in the island country have dwindled at an alarmingly rapid rate of 2 million hectares a year. What she saw testified to the fast disappearance of rain forest. Yang believed that the rain forest in these islands would vanish in less than ten years if it kept disappearing at this rate.

The other day， Yang and four other colleagues visited a deforestation site about an hour away from their camp. They were astounded by the tracts where trees were no more. There were just a few streams and a few dragonflies flying about. There were tree stumps and roots exposed after a fire. The scene sharply contrasted with the forest they had just visited a day before.

They struggled slowly toward the peat ground. They moved laboriously. It took them about an hour to negotiate a trip of 500 meters. The scorching sun beat down relentlessly， biting their arms like animals. On behalf of Greenpeace， Yang and other volunteers spread a streamer condemning the lumber company that had committed that heinous crime. CNN and other media were there to witness the protest. The protest was screened across the world.

In order to stop the tree-cutting by a palm-oil company， Yang and a few colleagues locked themselves to seven digging machines which had been used to destroy trees. They refused to leave until police arrived.

Yang worked there for a few months， they reported and tried to stop on-going deforestation projects; they built a dam to hold water for maintaining the peat ground after the trees were gone; they photographed the deforested lands; they investigated and found how deforestation affected and destroyed local fauna and flora and damaged local life.

Yang and his colleagues visited Teluk Merant， a village situated in the depth of forests. The village head Yosuph told Yang he could not bear losing another inch of forest. Over the past few years， he had written to the government several times. In December 2008， American ambassador to Indonesia came to visit the village. The village head knelt down on the knees in front of the ambassador， weeping and asking the ambassador to do something to help protect the forest.

In a village situated on a peninsular， Yang Jie talked with local fishermen， learning that rivers were highly polluted after forests were destroyed. A fisherman said he used to catch 180 kilograms of fish a month. Now the monthly catch was shrunken to 30 kilograms.

The rain forest on Sumatra is habitats of some aboriginal tribes which have been around for thousands of years. Since large companies have come to destroy forests， these tribes have to move every two months averagely. Local residents can hardly see them anymore. It is widely believed that these aboriginals wearing feathers on their heads and sporting colors on their bodies would vanish forever from the world if the deforestation continues.

In addition to witnessing the alarming scenes of forest destruction， Yang and her colleagues were able to see the unspoiled beauty of primitive forests. She and her colleagues once traveled 11 hours to reach Serkan Lake， a virgin land still protected and flanked by tropic forest. They photographed the gorgeous beauty and felt intoxicated by what they saw.

In the spring of 2010， Yang Jie came back to Beijing. She wrote a long investigation report exposing the destructive lumbering practice of some multinational companies in Indonesia. The report caught worldwide attention.

Shortly after her report was released， Unilever， the biggest buyer of palm oil in the world， declared that it would no longer purchase raw materials from suppliers that destroyed rain forests. UPM， the largest paper manufacturer and supplier in the world， canceled contracts with APP， one of Asia’s largest pulp and paper manufacturers. Many Fortune 500 companies wrote letters to the Indonesian government， calling for effective measures to stop forest destruction. Western countries set up special foundations to help save the world’s three major rain forests. In late August 2010， Yosuph informed Yang Jie in a letter that the Indonesian government had issued a provisional injunction for lumbering in Riau Province in Sumatra. The government injunction has stopped the wanton lumbering for the time being.