“錦繡西湖”都錦生

杭州茅家埠背依龍井山脈，面向西湖，是融匯秀美山水風(fēng)光的絕佳處。都錦生出生于西湖畔茅家埠的書(shū)香門(mén)第。他生于斯、長(zhǎng)于斯，在五四運(yùn)動(dòng)時(shí)以?xún)?yōu)秀成績(jī)畢業(yè)于浙江甲種工業(yè)學(xué)校（浙江大學(xué)前身）機(jī)織專(zhuān)業(yè)，并留校任教。當(dāng)時(shí)都錦生是滿(mǎn)懷豪情壯志的熱血青年，熱忱地向往著為發(fā)展民族絲綢工業(yè)而大顯身手。

父親發(fā)現(xiàn)都錦生從小就有良好的美術(shù)功底，并充分理解他開(kāi)拓絲織新工藝的愛(ài)國(guó)志向，特地到上海為他購(gòu)買(mǎi)當(dāng)時(shí)十分稀罕而珍貴的照相機(jī)。都錦生酷愛(ài)美術(shù)，有了照相機(jī)，更醉心于攝影藝術(shù)。從此他常常留連忘返地徘徊在西子湖畔，將美麗迷人的風(fēng)景盡情地?cái)z入鏡頭。這時(shí)一個(gè)新奇的聯(lián)想出現(xiàn)在腦海中：通過(guò)相機(jī)的感光功能，像拓印碑文那樣設(shè)法將西湖風(fēng)景照片絲織成珍貴的織錦，從而成為優(yōu)美的裝飾織錦工藝品而長(zhǎng)駐人間。都錦生從此立志做“錦繡西湖”的創(chuàng)始人。

都錦生在學(xué)校學(xué)習(xí)的是常規(guī)綢緞設(shè)計(jì)?？楀\中表達(dá)的自然風(fēng)景圖，尤其是絲織品畫(huà)面中湖水的波光、天空的云彩、山色的遠(yuǎn)近層次等形象，很難用常規(guī)花紋圖案來(lái)表達(dá)。經(jīng)過(guò)都錦生刻苦地反復(fù)試驗(yàn)，他徹底摒棄了傳統(tǒng)常規(guī)的意匠畫(huà)絲織法，始創(chuàng)革新了風(fēng)景、人像畫(huà)的先進(jìn)絲織法，真可謂石破天驚地創(chuàng)造了織錦奇跡。

都錦生革新絲織工藝，大膽創(chuàng)造出33種工藝操作組織法，終于在織錦絢麗畫(huà)面上，分別顯示出風(fēng)景中各種細(xì)微復(fù)雜的線條色彩，各檔層次的光線深淺，從而真實(shí)表達(dá)織錦的設(shè)計(jì)理念，織錦畫(huà)面反映了自然風(fēng)光光線的陰陽(yáng)面，層次的立體感。功夫不負(fù)有心人！我國(guó)第一幅西湖絲織風(fēng)景畫(huà)在茅家埠絲織作坊里試制成功了。這是中華民族絲綢行業(yè)具有劃時(shí)代意義的重大事件。

西湖風(fēng)景的絲織工藝品初獲成功，極大地鼓舞了都錦生創(chuàng)辦企業(yè)、大干一場(chǎng)的決心。他增購(gòu)絲織機(jī)，擴(kuò)建宅院里的絲織作坊，積極擴(kuò)大生產(chǎn)，推銷(xiāo)產(chǎn)品。

當(dāng)時(shí)，杭州城里人到靈隱寺敬香禮佛，須從湖濱乘船，經(jīng)西湖水道到達(dá)茅家埠。上埠棄船后，走“上香古道”，步行或乘轎到靈隱、天竺寺院。當(dāng)年茅家埠是西湖水陸交通的中轉(zhuǎn)站，這里茶館、酒樓、食品鋪等都有。都錦生家老宅就座落在西湖水域的船埠旁，都錦生在老宅大院門(mén)口設(shè)立了第一個(gè)織錦銷(xiāo)售點(diǎn)，攤位上每天都懸掛著新穎別致的絲織西湖風(fēng)景畫(huà)。這成為茅家埠一道亮麗奪目的風(fēng)景線，頓時(shí)吸引許多游人與香客瀏覽、觀賞或購(gòu)買(mǎi)。接著都錦生在杭州市中心的花市街（今郵電路）開(kāi)設(shè)第一家“都錦生織錦營(yíng)銷(xiāo)所”，隨著都錦生絲織工藝品聲譽(yù)日隆，銷(xiāo)售日漸紅火，都錦生又在上海、南京、天津、武漢、重慶、廣州等地開(kāi)設(shè)營(yíng)銷(xiāo)所，此時(shí)都錦生織錦在國(guó)內(nèi)已熱銷(xiāo)得供不應(yīng)求。

都錦生并不滿(mǎn)足企業(yè)興旺發(fā)達(dá)的現(xiàn)狀，認(rèn)為我國(guó)自古就有絲織王國(guó)的美譽(yù)，歷史上先后有陸上和海上絲綢之路，將中國(guó)絲綢傳播和行銷(xiāo)到各地，引起世界各國(guó)人民的震驚和矚目。都錦生堅(jiān)定的愿景是：推陳出新，走出國(guó)門(mén)；在當(dāng)今世界絲織工藝舞臺(tái)上，重振中國(guó)絲織品的輝煌。為此，都錦生緊緊抓住歷史機(jī)遇，獲得美國(guó)費(fèi)城世博會(huì)參展資質(zhì)。

1926年，杭州都錦生絲織廠著名的絲織精品《宮妃夜游圖》榮獲美國(guó)費(fèi)城世界博覽會(huì)金質(zhì)獎(jiǎng)狀。在美國(guó)費(fèi)城世博會(huì)中國(guó)館的開(kāi)幕日，都錦生織錦成為特種工藝品展廳的最大亮點(diǎn)?？椌d畫(huà)面上的波光月影，幽雅迷人的花園夜色，楚楚動(dòng)人的宮妃美女，在織錦主題中呈現(xiàn)真實(shí)而靈動(dòng)的色彩。它把中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)的歷史文化、書(shū)畫(huà)藝術(shù)、絲織工藝有機(jī)地融匯在一起，成為當(dāng)時(shí)轟動(dòng)國(guó)際市場(chǎng)的工藝珍品。當(dāng)時(shí)美國(guó)有報(bào)刊發(fā)表評(píng)論說(shuō)，“中國(guó)重新展示了絲織工藝品歷史性的巨大魅力，真讓全世界耳目一新！”1926年至1936年，是都錦生絲織廠興旺發(fā)達(dá)的最佳時(shí)期，企業(yè)在生產(chǎn)規(guī)模、工藝技術(shù)、花色品種和經(jīng)營(yíng)銷(xiāo)售方面，均達(dá)到建廠以來(lái)最高峰。1927年，都錦生絲織廠從西湖邊茅家埠，搬遷到艮山門(mén)外閘弄口附近的新廠區(qū)。當(dāng)時(shí)的杭州艮山門(mén)外是鐵路和運(yùn)河的水陸交通樞紐，又是傳統(tǒng)絲綢行業(yè)的聚集地。從此標(biāo)志著都錦生絲織廠已經(jīng)從小規(guī)模絲綢作坊，逐步發(fā)展成為當(dāng)時(shí)設(shè)備先進(jìn)、工藝精湛、產(chǎn)品一流的先進(jìn)織錦企業(yè)。

都錦生絲織廠新廠區(qū)花木扶疏、環(huán)境優(yōu)雅。建有工藝技術(shù)設(shè)計(jì)樓，寬敞的織錦車(chē)間，先進(jìn)的電機(jī)車(chē)間，規(guī)范的準(zhǔn)備車(chē)間，有當(dāng)時(shí)進(jìn)口的5臺(tái)自動(dòng)軋花機(jī)和自動(dòng)串花機(jī)。據(jù)1929年的杭州首屆西湖博覽會(huì)總結(jié)報(bào)告書(shū)記載：都錦生絲織廠資本達(dá)1萬(wàn)銀元，年平均產(chǎn)量達(dá)5萬(wàn)幅。1930年后，都錦生絲織品暢銷(xiāo)海內(nèi)外。五彩織錦等花色品種達(dá)數(shù)百種，深受?chē)?guó)內(nèi)外消費(fèi)者青睞。如杭州著名風(fēng)景織錦《九溪十八澗》，其絲綢畫(huà)面顯示：山道彎彎，溪水潺潺，高山白云，樹(shù)木青翠……絲織經(jīng)緯織出了美麗的景色。

1937年，“七七事變”后，日本侵略軍侵占杭州。日寇憲兵隊(duì)長(zhǎng)下令：“尋找都錦生，不許傷害他，要利用他的聲譽(yù)為皇軍服務(wù)。”日寇暗探循蹤找到茅家埠都錦生家，拿出日寇委任狀，請(qǐng)都錦生出任“偽杭州市長(zhǎng)”。都錦生嚴(yán)詞拒絕，決意不為“皇軍”效勞。翌日，日寇玩弄陰謀，在報(bào)紙上公布“偽杭州市政府”官員名單，居然擅自標(biāo)上都錦生大名。為徹底揭穿日寇的陰謀詭計(jì)，都錦生決定離杭避難。日寇發(fā)現(xiàn)都錦生“失蹤”后惱羞成怒，竟大發(fā)獸性地炸毀和焚燒艮山門(mén)外的都錦生絲織廠。都錦生身心遭遇到重大打擊，他的一生心血化為灰燼。

都錦生輾轉(zhuǎn)逃亡到上海租界，投資建造簡(jiǎn)陋的廠房，重新艱難起步，繼續(xù)實(shí)現(xiàn)他的織錦夢(mèng)想。在硝煙彌漫的抗戰(zhàn)時(shí)期，市場(chǎng)混亂、經(jīng)濟(jì)蕭條、民不聊生。都錦生的弄堂小廠慘淡經(jīng)營(yíng)，很難維持。

1941年，太平洋戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)爆發(fā)，日寇侵占了上海租界，都錦生的織錦夢(mèng)想徹底破滅。他忍痛關(guān)閉企業(yè)，終日陷于悲憤交集的憂(yōu)慮和絕望之中。1943年3月的一天，都錦生在窮困病弱中突發(fā)腦溢血。在彌留之際遺言：“回杭州，魂歸西湖安葬。”5月26日，都錦生在上海英年早逝，終年僅46歲。都錦生絲織廠的老職工，滿(mǎn)懷深情地用他生前創(chuàng)制的織錦工藝，敬織一幅《都錦生織錦肖像》，留作永久的紀(jì)念。

現(xiàn)在，茅家埠都錦生故居已改建為“都錦生紀(jì)念館”。進(jìn)入大門(mén)，便是一尊都錦生全身塑像，形態(tài)栩栩如生，神情凝重睿智，真讓絡(luò)繹不絕的參觀者肅然起敬。

The Man Who Weaves West Lake onto Brocade

By Ge Xuguo

Maojiabu is more than a scenic village on the west shore of the West Lake. It is the birthplace where Du Jinsheng (1897-1943) was born. Du was from a family of scholars and grew up in the scenic lake area. When he was young， his father bought him a camera from Shanghai after seeing the junior had an aptitude for fine arts. Du Jinsheng graduated from the textile machinery department of Zhejiang First Industrial Academy， part of the predecessor of today’s Zhejiang University. He stayed at his alma mater to teach after his graduation. He did a lot of sightseeing around the West Lake and photographed the beautiful sceneries. One day he had an inspiration of weaving the picturesque scenery of the lake into brocade.

He experimented with his creative ideas， seeking the best way to translate photographic images onto brocades. He finally invented a 33-step procedure to weave colorful silk threads into a picture on a piece of brocade. His technology revolutionized the traditional way of weaving impressionistic images onto silk fabrics. The first successful image was the Nine Brooks and Eighteen Dales， a scenic spot in the west of the West Lake， where streams zigzag bubbling among densely wooded hills. It was China’s first ever silk-woven landscape fabric and it happened at a time when the country was seeing an upsurge of industrialization as young entrepreneurs across China considered industrialization was a way to revitalize the ancient empire. On May 15， 1922， Du Jinsheng set up a silk-weaving factory in his name in Maojiabu.

From ancient times up to the early 1920s， there was not yet a bus road that connected downtown Hangzhou with Lingyin Temple. Buddhist pilgrims usually took a boat trip across the lake and landed at Maojiabu before they traveled on foot or by sedan to reach the Buddhist sanctuary. Maojiabu， therefore， served as a stopover place for these pilgrims and visitors， where teahouses， restaurants， wine shops and pilgrimage article shops flourished. Du Jinsheng put his brocades up at his shop beside his home. The unique silk pictures attracted pilgrims. Sales were pretty good.

Du set up a sales outlet in Flower Market Street in downtown Hangzhou. Before long， he opened up shops in Shanghai， Nanjing， Tianjin， Chongqing， and Guangzhou. With the support of Zhejiang Provincial Government， Du sent his beautiful brocades to the World Expo in Philadelphia， USA in 1926 where one of his silk-woven brocade won a gold medal.

In 1926， his business was so brisk that he bought a piece of land of about one hectare outside the Genshan Gate in the northeast Hangzhou. He chose the spot for good business reasons: outside the Genshan Gate was a new railroad depot; the Grand Canal was just a stone’s throw away; in close neighborhood were a lot of silk factories. The factory started manufacturing operations in 1927 and had 130 employees working nearly 100 manually weaving machines.

The decade from 1926 to 1936 witnessed the flourishing of Du’s business. The weaving technology was mature and the workshops turned out hundreds of different pictures woven on brocade. The official summary about the West Lake Expo written in 1929 reported that Du Jinsheng Silk-Weaving Factory averagely made 50，000 pieces of colorful pictured brocades a year with a profitability rate at 200%.

Du Jinsheng’s business suffered a fatal blow when Japan started an all-out invasion into China in 1937. Thinking Du Jinsheng was the best figurehead for the puppet regime in Hangzhou， the Japanese occupiers came to Du’s house at Maojiabu and showed him a letter of appointment saying that he had been appointed Mayor of Hangzhou. Du declined the appointment. But his appointment was announced in the next day’s newspaper anyway. Du disappeared. Enraged， the Japanese military rulers decided to retaliate against the non-cooperative attitude. They dynamited and burned down Du’s factory outside the Genshan Gate. Du sneaked away to Shanghai and hid himself in foreign concessions， where he tried to restart his business. The business wasn’t good. In 1941， Japan started its military offense in the Pacific Ocean and grabbed the foreign concessions in Shanghai. Du had to shut down his silk-weaving manufacturing operation in Shanghai. In March 1943， he had massive brain hemorrhage. He said on his deathbed that he wanted to be buried in Hangzhou. He passed away on May 26， 1943.

Du Jinsheng was one of those Chinese patriots in the early 20th century that intended to save China through industrialization and achieve revitalization. His revolutionary innovation uplifted the 5，000-year-old silk craft to an unprecedented high， creating a legacy that is a material and spiritual treasure of China.

The factory outside the Genshan gate is no more. But his former residence at Maojiabu still stands. It now serves as Du Jinsheng Memorial where visitors can trace his life and contribution. A full-length statue of Du Jinsheng stands in the courtyard of the residence where visitors can pay homage to the trailblazing industrialist.