Lafite's adoption of a Chinese element is not just co-incidence. Perhaps connoisseurs don't all consider Lafitethe pinnacle of wine, but for Chinese novices, Lafite ismore attractive. In China, the brand has come to symbol-ize wealth and social status, attracting a growing legionof followers. Along with increasing demand, its price hassoared dramatically. Even the price tag for Carruades deLafite, a second label, has eclipsed card-carrying wines ofother First Growths, frustrating and confusing the cha-teau's overseas rivals.