迷人的童話——薩爾茨堡

今年是中國和奧地利建交40周年。40年來，中奧關系取得長足發展。在20國集團領導人第六次峰會之前，應奧地利共和國總統菲舍爾邀請，中國國家主席胡錦濤對奧地利進行了國事訪問，并專門參觀了薩爾茨堡。

奧地利位于歐洲中部，薩爾茨堡是一座旅游城市，尤其在冬季是滑雪勝地，作為阿爾卑斯山的門戶，每年會接待無數從世界各地來的滑雪者。薩爾茨堡也是世界著名的歷史文化名城，以其優美的自然風光與人文風情著稱于世。在歐洲人的眼里，薩爾茨堡就是一個冬天里的童話。冬季來到這里，無非有兩個最誘人的目的，一是過最有傳統味道的圣誕節，二是去歐洲最棒的滑雪勝地滑雪。

薩爾茨堡小鎮奧本多夫，平安夜，來自全世界不同國家、不同種族、不同膚色的游客，聚集在“圣誕紀念堂”，用各自不同的語言，唱出同一首歌《平安夜》。這里是《平安夜》的故鄉，這一首全世界最為著名的圣誕歌曲就是在1818年的圣誕節，從這里唱響全世界。薩爾茨堡家家戶戶的窗欞上都會掛起五顏六色的圣誕裝飾，圣誕節就像我們中國人的春節一樣重要。

薩爾茨堡的雪是全世界最美的雪。在乘坐纜車上山的時候，滑雪愛好者便不斷喝一種紅色的飲料，然后拍著胸口大吼一聲：“Prost(干杯)！”這玩意兒有點甜，酒精味很重。“這是滑雪者的‘水’！”是Vodka和RedBull的混合物。懷里抱著重重的滑雪板的年輕人，已經把滑雪當作了自己生活的一部分。換乘三次纜車，從海拔1000米上升到3000米，便是雪場。這里是阿爾卑斯山的永久冰川地帶，雪場占據整個山嶺，一年四季都正常營業。

說是全年開放營業，但在每年的11月底12月初，坎帕都會有一個滑雪季節開始的慶典。就在坎帕山坡上的那座古堡內，連續兩個周末舉行盛大的搖滾音樂會和迪斯科舞會，你會見識到愛滑雪的人們玩得多么瘋狂。

在冬季，還有不少的游客來到這里是為了泡溫泉，這里的水質據說十分特別。鎮上的“大澡堂子”里有各種各樣的池子，室內的、室外的、按摩的、噴水的，無一例外都是大池子，里面從早到晚擠滿了男男女女、老老少少。“澡堂子”的二樓就是桑拿房，門上還赫然貼了一張警示：“禁穿內衣”，無論是身型好的年輕帥哥，還是身材走樣的年老婦人，要是想去那一間有著透明大玻璃窗的桑拿房里蒸一下，就必須先把自己的衣服塵土去除干凈。沒錯，心無雜念，才是享受的最高境界。

在薩爾茨堡市，逛街的核心地點當然是那條著名的糧食大街。這條街道是地方特色的象征，所有的店鋪都有一個古典的鐵藝招牌，大多數商店都有數十年以上的歷史。在糧食大街的最北端，是一家著名的“雙立人”刀具店。這條街上，還可以找到正宗的由福斯特家族手工制作的銀色包裝的“莫扎特糖球”。音樂天才莫扎特出生的房子就坐落在糧食大街9號。這座外墻明黃的六層樓高的公寓樓中的3樓，兩扇掛著紅色窗簾的窗戶中就是這位偉人1756年的出生地了。莫扎特故居珍藏著莫扎特的手稿以及他童年時代用過的鋼琴和小提琴。胡錦濤主席一行這次也來參觀，聽了奧地利小朋友的小提琴獨奏和老師的鋼琴伴奏。薩爾茨堡因為誕生了這位天才音樂家而名噪天下。在這里，有他的故居，有他的雕像，還有以他命名的城市廣場、音樂學院以及每年都以他的名義舉辦的具有世界影響力的音樂節。

在薩爾茨堡市，有一處著名古跡，山頂上的霍亨薩爾斯城堡，那里也是俯瞰整個薩爾茨堡迷人景色的最佳地點：一邊是薩爾茨堡高低錯落的市景和城市邊緣高低起伏的丘陵，一邊則是郊區，大片綠色的草地和冷杉，一棟棟獨立的民居掩映在綠樹之中。胡錦濤主席一行這次就訪問了郊區一家有著500年歷史的農場，奶牛，田園，遠山，一派靜穆。

霍亨薩爾斯城堡建于11世紀，有白色的外墻、高聳的尖塔，如童話中的宮殿，里面卻非常樸素，沒有水晶吊燈，沒有華麗的壁爐，墻上沒有畫，屋里也沒有雕塑，沒有任何裝飾，只有白墻或石墻。城堡有古老的大炮，炮口探出厚墻，說明了這是為防御外敵而造的，當外敵入侵時，這龐大的城堡夠滿城的居民躲避災難并防守反擊吧。城堡里如今展示著古代的兵器，盔甲、戰車、刀劍。

薩爾茨堡四周群山環繞，阿爾卑斯山賦予了這座小城跳動的靈氣，中間是一條如藍綢緞般穿城而過的薩爾茨河，將整個城區劃分為新舊兩個部份。沿著河邊漫步，實在是一件非常愜意的事。這是一個兼具優美自然風光和濃厚文化氣息的城市，難怪著名的環球旅行家A.V Humboldt贊譽薩爾茨堡為世界上最美麗的城市。奧地利還是中歐唯一決定不發展核能的國家，因此對各國游客來說，它是一個非常令人向往的度假天堂。"

胡錦濤主席到訪奧地利和親臨薩爾茨堡，將會進一步加快中奧之間旅游業的發展，增進中奧人民的友誼，中國游客也將會越來越多地光顧薩爾茨堡。□

Salzburg: a Charming Fairytale

The year 2011 marks the 40th anniversary of the founding of the diplomatic relations between Austria and China. Since then， the two countries have made great progress in the bilateral relations. Chinese President Hu Jintao and his wife Liu Yongqing visited Salzburg on November 1， 2011 during his two-day state visit to Austria， accompanied by Austrian President Heinz Fischer.

Salzburg is a famous city for its history， architecture， and art. A gateway to the Alps， it attracts a lot of skiers from all over the world all the year around. Tourists come to Salzburg in winter for celebrating Christmas and skiing on Europe’s best ski resorts. “Silent Night，” probably the most popular Christmas carol， was composed in 1818 and first performed in Oberndoff， Salzburg. People from all over the world gather at the church to sing the carol every Christmas. Christmas is as important to Austrians as Spring Festival to Chinese. During the big occasion， houses across Salzburg are richly decorated.

As a gateway to the Alps， Salzburg has easy access to a number of ski resorts nearby. It is said that Salzburg has the most beautiful snow of the world. For young skiers， skiing is part of youthful life. Take cable cars upward and you reach ski slopes at 3，000 meters above sea level. These slopes are part of perennial glaciers where one can ski all the year around. Though skiers come in all the seasons， winter is really special: a ceremony is always held from late November to early December in Salzburg to launch the start of the winter skiing season. Celebrations rage on for two consecutive weekends.

Another big attraction of Salzburg is its hot springs where visitors take bath at public bathrooms. The most famous shopping street in Salzburg is Getreidegasse (also known as Grain Lane) where inviting shops show wrought iron trade signs. The street is characterized with closely knitted houses， numerous corridors and charming courtyards. The house at no. 9 Getreidegasse is the place where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born and where he lived until the age of 17. It is a six-story apartment house. Mozart was born in 1756 on the third floor. President Hu Jintao visited the Mozart’s former residence during his visit to Salzburg. Part of Salzburg’s fame derives from the great composer. His name can be seen across the city. A music festival is annually held in his honor.

Hohensalzburg Castle is a castle atop Festungsberg Mountain. Erected at the behest of the Prince-Archbishops of Salzburg and with a length of 250 m (820 ft) and a width of 150 m (490 ft)， it is one of the largest medieval castles in Europe. It is the best place to have a commanding view of the panorama of Salzburg. On one side of the castle is the city proper and undulating hills that hug the urban center tightly. On the other side stretch a large expanse of woods and lawns， dotted by farming huts. During his November visit to Salzburg， President Hu Jintao visited the 500-years-old Urbanhof farm operated by Joseph Haas’s family.

Built in the 11th century， Hohensalzburg Castle is stately looks like something out of a fairytale with its white walls and high spires. But the inside of the great structure is austerity itself， empty of fancy decorations such as crystal chandeliers， ornate fireplaces， paintings， and sculptures. Ancient weapons on display inside the castle indicate that the grand fortress served a military purpose.

The towering Alps lends its generous charms to Salzburg. Salzach River traverses the city proper， separating the old town proper from its modern counterpart. It is a pure delight to take a stroll along the banks of the river. A city of gorgeous scenery and cultural heritage， Salzburg attracts visitors from all over the world. It is predicted that a large number of Chinese tourists will certainly follow the footsteps of President Hu Jintao to visit Austria and Salzburg in particular. □