美食的天堂 藝術(shù)的殿堂

金秋的西子湖畔，天高氣爽，在如織的游人中，一對老夫妻在白堤上匆匆行走，“樓外樓到了！”

面帶微笑的服務(wù)小姐熱情地把兩位老人引進(jìn)餐廳，待老人落座后，服務(wù)小姐又遞上菜單，請老人點(diǎn)菜。兩位老人一邊商量一邊點(diǎn)菜。10多分鐘后菜上來了，他們津津有味地品嘗西湖醋魚、龍井蝦仁等菜肴，并連連點(diǎn)頭贊道：“味道正宗！”

名菜佳肴 湖樓飄香

樓外樓素以經(jīng)營杭州傳統(tǒng)名菜而聞名于世，在烹飪技藝上逐漸形成了獨(dú)樹一幟的傳統(tǒng)風(fēng)格，即重視原料的鮮、活、嫩，突出本味，清新怡人。樓外樓擁有西湖醋魚、龍井蝦仁、宋嫂魚羹、叫化童雞、東坡肉等一大批傳統(tǒng)名菜。

“西湖醋魚何處美，獨(dú)數(shù)杭州樓外樓。”杭州人有種習(xí)俗，凡有賓客，必到樓外樓品嘗杭菜風(fēng)味。外地游人玩西湖，不上樓外樓，似乎沒有真正領(lǐng)略杭州的美味佳肴。

2010年，樓外樓賣出西湖醋魚20多萬條，叫化童雞16萬多只，東坡肉500多噸，其中西湖醋魚、龍井蝦仁、東坡肉、宋嫂魚羹、叫化童雞5只傳統(tǒng)名菜占總銷售額的55.8%。從這一組數(shù)據(jù)中便可以領(lǐng)略到樓外樓的美食魅力。

作為杭州傳統(tǒng)名菜的發(fā)祥地，“以菜名樓，以文興樓”的樓外樓講究色、香、味、形、質(zhì)，除傳統(tǒng)名菜外，還研制了一大批風(fēng)味特色菜，烹制出200多種如黿魚煨乳鴿、鮑魚扣肥鴨等創(chuàng)新菜。近年來樓外樓連續(xù)主辦了各種大型飲食文化和烹飪技藝的研討交流活動(dòng)，其中有南北特色菜肴薈萃的食品節(jié)、有高層次的飲食文化學(xué)術(shù)交流，如浙江飲食文化技藝研討會(huì)、杭州與臺(tái)灣飲食文化技藝研討會(huì)、亞洲飲食文化技藝研討會(huì)等。

就在筆者探訪樓外樓之時(shí)，這家百年老店經(jīng)多方考證整理，“找回”了老底子的20只西湖傳統(tǒng)老菜，翻出了壓箱底160年的雅士名人的照片和墨寶，今日樓外樓的年輕廚師們從保存下來的老舊菜單上翻到了西湖老菜的名稱和配料，不過具體怎么烹制還需要老師傅手把手教。樓外樓為此特意邀請名廚陳阿達(dá)、徐子川、陳善昌、葉杭生、柴寶榮、吳順初、陶海明親手傳承，讓更多的人能品嘗到西湖老味道。

據(jù)了解，這些老底子西湖名菜推出后，由于口味獨(dú)特，價(jià)廉物美，頗受消費(fèi)者青睞。不僅外地游客慕名而至，而且許多杭州人也紛紛前來，有老夫妻雙雙而來的，有四代同堂結(jié)伴來的，有情侶攜手來的，除了尋找當(dāng)年品嘗老底子西湖名菜的感覺，更多的是喚起美好的回憶。

人因菜傳，樓隨人香，名人與美食，名樓與人文相融相生。有著163年歷史的老店“樓外樓”，吸引著一批又一批近現(xiàn)代文化名人，他們到樓外樓品嘗美味，同時(shí)也留下了很多逸聞趣事和詩文筆墨，更與樓外樓菜館及西湖名菜相映成趣，形成了一種溫文蘊(yùn)藉、耐人品味的濃濃老味道。

重修樓宇 美輪美奐

如今重登樓外樓的中外客人都會(huì)驚異地發(fā)現(xiàn)，樓外樓顯得更加豪華氣派，美觀舒適。讓人有些相見不相識(shí)了。

近幾年來，樓外樓投巨資進(jìn)行改建裝修。重新恢復(fù)三樓，頂覆銅瓦，高18米，建筑面積5000平方米，新建的三樓增加了一批高檔包廂。全店現(xiàn)可同時(shí)容納1300多人用餐，比過去增加了300個(gè)餐位。不僅擴(kuò)大了營業(yè)面積，而且就餐環(huán)境也更加舒適怡人。

在西湖申遺期間裝修的樓外樓，裝潢上更加講究文化品位。大餐廳懸掛巨幅名人書畫，包廂用紅木框畫和精美竹編畫裝點(diǎn)。在三樓，無論包廂還是過道都擺放了紅木雕刻的沙發(fā)，以及狀似蟹、蝦的椅子，既富有靈氣，又美觀大方。在走廊上、包廂里，還點(diǎn)綴著我國著名書畫家的作品，透出優(yōu)雅之氣。在一樓大堂，裝潢別具匠心，四周懸掛著書法名家趙樸初、沙孟海、啟功、沈鵬題寫的“樓外樓”金字匾額，四根碩大的立柱上鑲嵌著四塊金字詩匾：蘇東坡那首著名的“淡妝濃抹總相宜”。

樓外樓飛檐畫棟，花窗青瓦，清麗典雅；敞廳亮軒，華燈彩壁，大氣端莊。它宛如一首凝固的詩，宛如一幅立體的畫，把自然之美與人工之巧，把藝術(shù)境界與現(xiàn)實(shí)生活融為一體，令世人贊嘆。中國人歷來講究餐飲環(huán)境，特別是一些文士墨客、官商名人，更喜歡在山清水秀之地把酒品美味。近代詩人高燮有《樓外樓小飲》詩一首：“小飲微醺狎水鷗，六橋煙柳望中收。莼肥魚嫩閑風(fēng)味，難忘樓外樓。”寫盡了在樓外樓用餐時(shí)的感受和心境。因?yàn)樵谶@里宴飲，“推窗望湖平水清柳翠樓外風(fēng)光好，舉箸嘗鰱肥筍嫩莼鮮席間笑語盈”，人在樓中，樓在景中，在微醺醺笑盈盈大快朵頤之際，人和樓，樓和景，早已融為一體了。

前幾年在中國工藝美術(shù)大師陸光正的主持及打理下，樓外樓經(jīng)過一輪裝修，建筑裝潢的風(fēng)格更加清麗和諧，內(nèi)涵更加豐富雋永。特別值得一提的是，陸大師專門為樓外樓設(shè)計(jì)創(chuàng)作了一幀大型壁雕：《東坡浚湖圖》，這幀壁雕有50平方米畫面，85個(gè)人物，5個(gè)連成一氣的場景，真實(shí)生動(dòng)地記錄和反映了九百多年前蘇東坡率眾疏浚西湖的過程。《東坡浚湖圖》裝點(diǎn)在一樓到二樓旋轉(zhuǎn)樓梯旁的墻壁上，分外醒目，令每一個(gè)到樓外樓的賓客，都眼睛一亮。

樓外樓不僅是提供美食的場所，同時(shí)也是一個(gè)展示民族風(fēng)俗文化內(nèi)涵的場所，使人享受美味時(shí)又能體驗(yàn)一種文化情調(diào)。

以文興樓 樓以文名

富有歷史文化底蘊(yùn)的中華老字號(hào)樓外樓，它在創(chuàng)建之時(shí)，就浸潤在濃郁的文化氛圍中。取自宋代林昇詩句“山外青山樓外樓”而富有詩情畫意的店名，使她與中國傳統(tǒng)文化融合在一起。多少年來，無數(shù)政要名流、文人墨客登樓把盞，感受歷史名店的文脈，留下珍貴的墨寶。

樓外樓在環(huán)境設(shè)置中始終珍視名樓的文化傳統(tǒng)和人文、自然資源，悉心增添文化氛圍。樓外樓特意將60多個(gè)包廂取出有文化內(nèi)涵的名字，刻成匾額，要求服務(wù)員能講出該匾額的含意。餐廳及包廂里，懸掛了周總理在樓外樓接待外國元首的歷史照片和社會(huì)名流為樓外樓創(chuàng)作的詩詞書畫，突出了百年老店的文化歷史。

近幾年來，樓外樓每年都要舉辦“春秋書畫創(chuàng)作筆會(huì)”活動(dòng)，邀請大江南北的書畫名家相聚一堂，吟詩作畫。現(xiàn)在樓外樓已收藏名家書畫數(shù)百幅。樓外樓人深諳“樓以文興”之道，他們把這些書畫作品視作文化藝術(shù)的瑰寶，精心收藏保護(hù)。在營業(yè)場所十分緊張的情況下，還專門設(shè)立面積約250平方米的樓外樓書畫陳列室，長年展出收藏的名家書畫作品，觀者踴躍，滿堂生輝，盡顯名樓風(fēng)采。□

Louwailou Adds Art to Taste

In celebration of the newly acquired World Heritage status of the West Lake in June 2011， the lakeside Louwailou Restaurant has launched a menu of 20 some dishes of decades ago. Over the past 163 years， the restaurant has been famed for providing a wide range of traditional dishes of Hangzhou cuisine. The restaurant is nothing if it is not traditional: many dishes that were on the menu decades ago still play a big part of the restaurant business today: in 2010 alone， diners placed more than 200，000 orders for West Lake Fish in Vinegar Gravy; the restaurant sold 160，000 Beggar’s Chickens and 500 tons of Dongpo Pork; the best known five traditional dishes accounted for 55.8% of the total annual revenue.

The traditional restaurant is also a sharp innovator. That explains why it has been around for so many years whereas its counterparts in the city have largely faded or even disappeared. It knows how to cater to local residents and visitors from the outside world. Finding the recipes of some traditional dishes and launching them again shortly after the West Lake was inscribed on the UNESCO’s list of world cultural heritage testifies to the restaurant’s fast response to market opportunities. The old recipes have brought a sense of nostalgia to local residents and travelers. The young chefs at the restaurant did not know how to best prepare old dishes. They had only recipes. The restaurant invited retired chefs back and taught the young ones.

As the only large restaurant situated inside the West Lake， Louwailou boasts a large collection of precious artworks such as calligraphic inscriptions and paintings， gifts left over by cultural celebrities over 163 years. In the restaurant lobby hang four inscriptions of the name of the restaurant in the handwritings of Zhao Puchu (1907-2000)， Sha Menghai(1900-1992)， Qigong (1912-2005) and Shen Peng (b.1931)， all preeminent calligraphers of the twenty-century China. The interesting collection tells a unique story about the ties of these cultural celebrities and the restaurant.

The hardware of the restaurant reflects the cultural charm and history of the restaurant. Over the years， the restaurant has undergone various rounds of reconstruction and face-lifting. Now the 1，300 seats three-story restaurant looks like an art venue within and without.

The restaurant has been artistically touched up in a face-lifting project before the application for the UNESCO world heritage status. It now presents bronze tiles on the roof， carved windows， and upturned eaves， all being the traditional Chinese architectural features.

Some artworks from the collection are on display in the corridors and rooms of the restaurants. The most eye-catching artwork on display is a long 50-square-meter wood sculpture. The five separate pieces， connected together， present a total of 85 figures and portray a large-scale lake dredging project by Su Dongpo more than 900 years ago in Hangzhou. All the sixty private rooms are graced by artworks by celebrities and photographs and each has a poetic name. The service people at the restaurant know relevant anecdotes and cultural who’s who and the meanings of the names of the private rooms.

The restaurant has a 255-m2 showroom where visitors can view paintings and calligraphies from the restaurant’s collection. Masterpieces are on display on a rotational basis. □