凝聚人心的韃靼美食

By Dave McGuire

Today， were looking for a European country with a small Tatar presence， and now a Tatar restaurant. Tatars， by the way， are Turkic Muslims， and that restaurant is in northeast Poland.

Dave McGuire recently paid a visit to the restaurant chef in the village of Kruszyniany.

Dave： Thats Jenata Bogdanovic in the kitchen of her restaurant. Its in a restored family farmhouse in a tiny village about a mile from the border with Belarus.

今天，我們來(lái)找一個(gè)有著少量韃靼人口，如今又有了一家韃靼餐廳的歐洲國(guó)家。順便說(shuō)一句，韃靼人是突厥人中的一支，他們是穆斯林教徒，而那家餐廳位于波蘭的東北部。

戴夫·麥圭爾最近到克魯斯查涅尼村拜訪了這家餐廳的主廚。

戴夫：詹納塔·博格達(dá)諾維奇正在她餐廳的廚房里。這個(gè)小村莊坐落在離波蘭與白俄羅斯接壤邊界線一英里（約1.61公里）處，餐廳就在村里的一幢經(jīng)過(guò)整修的農(nóng)舍里。

The smell of onion is strong when you enter the kitchen. Jenatas preparing dishes that youd normally only find in a Tatar home. Jenata entered local cooking contests， and she won with a cuisine thats unfamiliar to most Poles. Polish food critics flocked her way and the tourists followed， so Jenata opened a Tatar restaurant， the first in the country， in 2003.

Jenata explains， the central theme of Tatar cuisine is meat， lots of meat； 1）mutton， 2）venison and especially beef. What you wont find here is pork， because Tatars are Muslim. All that meat is packaged in pastry. These are the dishes youd expect from nomadic horsemen. Meat inside dough： easy to carry and eat on the go.

Today Jenata is making pyzy and kuldunai. Pyzy look a bit like small footballs. Theyre dumplings filled with heavily spiced ground meat surrounded by a dough made with raw and cooked potato. She boils them in a beef broth.

一進(jìn)入廚房，濃烈的洋蔥味撲鼻而來(lái)。詹納塔正在烹飪的是你只會(huì)在韃靼人家才能看到的家常菜。詹納塔曾經(jīng)參加了當(dāng)?shù)氐呐腼兇筚悾砸坏来蠖鄶?shù)波蘭人都不熟悉的菜在比賽中獲勝。波蘭的美食評(píng)論家蜂擁而至，她也因此吸引了不少游客。于是，詹納塔在2003年創(chuàng)辦了波蘭的首家韃靼餐廳。

詹納塔解釋說(shuō)，韃靼美食的主題就是肉，他們吃大量的肉：羊肉、鹿肉，特別是牛肉。他們的食譜里惟獨(dú)缺豬肉，因?yàn)轫^靼人是穆斯林教徒。韃靼人吃肉的方式是把它們放在面團(tuán)里。這正是游牧民族吃的方式：用面團(tuán)包著肉，因?yàn)檫@樣方便攜帶，可以邊走邊吃。

今天，詹納塔做的是皮茲和卡爾敦納這兩道菜。皮茲的樣子有點(diǎn)像個(gè)小小的足球，那就是湯團(tuán)里填滿了重口味的肉沫和生熟混雜的土豆團(tuán)。她把皮茲放進(jìn)了牛肉湯里煮。

文化交流站

韃靼是古代中原人對(duì)北部國(guó)界線境外的各游牧民族的統(tǒng)稱。韃靼民族是突厥人的一支，歐洲人所說(shuō)的“韃靼人”分廣義和狹義兩個(gè)稱謂，廣義是俄國(guó)境內(nèi)使用突厥語(yǔ)各族的統(tǒng)稱，狹義韃靼則指韃靼族。……