葡萄牙大西洋沿岸的魔幻辛特拉

by Isabel Choat德孟譯

OUT THERE 夢幻之旅

葡萄牙大西洋沿岸的魔幻辛特拉

by Isabel Choat德孟譯

瀕臨大西洋的葡萄牙小鎮(zhèn)辛特拉雖與首都里斯本咫尺之隔，卻風(fēng)情迥異。除了沙灘、沖浪與美食之外，風(fēng)格混搭的宮殿、城堡和別墅坐落在懸崖上和起伏的山巒間，人文景觀與自然風(fēng)光充分融合在一起，充滿了迪斯尼式的魔幻與神秘，富可敵國者和一文不名者都在這兒找到了歸屬感。聯(lián)合國教科文組織為辛特拉特設(shè)了一個(gè) “文化風(fēng)景”類別，將它列為世界遺產(chǎn)。

“ The best ones are right under the rocks,” said Nuno Aramac, before slipping under the water like a seal. The two of us had swum to the base of a cliff where we were collecting1)goose barnacles. I say “we”, but it was actually Nuno who was doing all the work, scraping away at the rocks with a2)chisel-like tool, ducking and diving then popping back up waving a handful of strange sea creatures and grinning.

“最好的都在巖石下面呢。”努諾·阿拉馬克說完，就像海豹似的一頭扎進(jìn)了水里。我們兩人已經(jīng)游到了懸崖腳，在那兒撿鵝頸藤壺。雖然我說“我們”，但其實(shí)是努諾自己做完了所有的工作，他拿一個(gè)鑿子似的工具刮下巖石上的鵝頸藤壺，鉆到水下潛游，然后突然抓著一大把奇異的海洋生物冒出頭來，咧開嘴笑著。

1) goose barnacle 鵝頸藤壺，狗爪螺，一種海洋貝類，號稱“來自地獄的海鮮” 2) chisel ['t??z(?)l] n. 鑿子；鏨子

The spectacular stretch of Atlantic coast just north of Lisbon, with its rugged cliffs, crashing waves and near-empty stretches of sandy beach is famed for two things: surfng and seafood. The most-prized of the latter is the goose barnacle, beloved of food writers. “One of the most beautiful foods on the planet,” wrote Guardian food blogger Charlie Skelton,“the bright3)enamelled head with its ruby lips sits atop a snakeskin sleeve which pulls away to reveal a glossy,4)lucent fnger of fesh,5)marbled and grey at the neck, bright orange at the tip.”

Sit on the6)terrace of any local eatery and order fsh that was caught hours before, and cooked with just a splash of olive oil and lemon. The fact that you’ll end up paying about half what you would for a similar meal in the UK makes it all the sweeter.

I ate clams in white wine at the cafe on Adraga beach—said to be one of the most beautiful in Europe; worked my way through a platter of bass, bream, mussels and prawns at more7)upmarket Mar do Inferno, at the most westerly point of Europe; and, most memorably of all,8)tucked into giant scarlet shrimps at Azenhas do Mar, a restaurant set into the cliff in the village of the same name.

Having eaten my own body weight in seafood, it was only right to try the area’s other big draw: surfng. Nuno, my barnacle-picking guide, is also a talented surfer and agreed to give me a lesson. I met him and his family at their little house on Praia Grande, the largest beach on the Cascais-Sintra coast. The sea was unusually calm, perfect for a beginner like me, so after a quick rehearsal on the sand, we9)waded into the water. Suddenly the gentle waves seemed a little less so. And after 20 minutes of me battling through surf, only to come back to shore10)squealing while lying fat on the board, Nuno had some friendly advice:

“It’s much easier if you dive under like a fsh, instead of fghting through them,” he said.

里斯本北面壯麗的大西洋海岸有著崎嶇的懸崖、洶涌的浪濤和空曠的沙灘，還因兩樣?xùn)|西而名揚(yáng)天下：沖浪和海鮮。鵝頸藤壺是海鮮中的珍品，是美食評論家的心頭之愛。《衛(wèi)報(bào)》的美食博主查理·斯凱爾頓寫道：“鵝頸藤壺是這個(gè)星球上最美麗的食物之一，琺瑯質(zhì)感的亮色頭部，寶石紅的邊緣，下面是蛇皮質(zhì)感的筒套，剝開之后，露出光滑透明的觸手，頸部為灰色，帶有大理石的紋理，尖端是鮮橘色。”

任意坐在一家當(dāng)?shù)匦〔宛^的陽臺上，點(diǎn)上一味幾個(gè)小時(shí)前剛捕捉的、加以橄欖油和檸檬烹煮而成的魚。……