“早餐奶奶”的早餐攤

孫侃

自己的早餐攤竟這樣受歡迎，這是老人不曾預(yù)料到的；而這早餐攤擺了23年，而且還在擺下去，這是眾人沒(méi)有預(yù)料到的。

以不變的低廉價(jià)格為匆匆上學(xué)的孩子們提供早餐，這一關(guān)愛(ài)之舉，八旬老人毛師花已經(jīng)堅(jiān)持了整整23年，而且還在做下去。動(dòng)力是什么？是中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)的義賣品德，是她善良、勤勞的秉性。老人開心地說(shuō)，每次賣早餐的短短兩三小時(shí)，是最快樂(lè)的時(shí)光，因?yàn)閺暮⒆觽兊臍g笑中，她感受到了自己的價(jià)值。

“小小的轉(zhuǎn)角，我們遇到了美好；大大的天地，我們傳遞著愛(ài)與善意?！?017年1月，“最美浙江人”評(píng)選活動(dòng)中，“早餐奶奶”榮獲“2016年度浙江驕傲人物”榮譽(yù)稱號(hào)，這是頒獎(jiǎng)儀式上給予她的授獎(jiǎng)詞。

那個(gè)轉(zhuǎn)角的溫馨場(chǎng)景

“奶奶，我要一個(gè)粽子一個(gè)馃！”“奶奶，我要兩個(gè)油餅，一個(gè)蛋餅！”“奶奶，我還要一袋豆?jié){！”……

一大早，在衢州市衢江區(qū)黃壇口鄉(xiāng)中心小學(xué)大門附近的轉(zhuǎn)角，一群小學(xué)生正圍著一個(gè)早餐攤搶買早點(diǎn)。晨霧還沒(méi)有完全散去，早餐攤籠罩著熱氣，主人的身影忙忙碌碌——那是一位弓著背、歪著脖子的老奶奶。

早餐攤很小，兩張小方桌，七只凳子，四只分別用來(lái)蒸發(fā)餅、煮粽子、煎油餅、熱豆?jié){的煤爐，另有一張擺放各種食材、調(diào)料與碗筷的臺(tái)桌，還有一輛拉物品的小三輪車。

令人驚訝的是，老人售賣的各品種，每份都只要5毛錢！早餐攤已風(fēng)雨無(wú)阻地?cái)[了23個(gè)年頭，其售價(jià)竟在這么長(zhǎng)的時(shí)間里始終未漲（茶葉蛋幾個(gè)月前起賣1元1只）！有人說(shuō)，這可能是全浙江最便宜的早餐了，此言一點(diǎn)不虛。

一名六年級(jí)小學(xué)生用兩元錢買了四樣早點(diǎn)。他端著熱騰騰的豆?jié){，一邊喝一邊感激地說(shuō)：“我從二年級(jí)開始就在這里吃早餐，因?yàn)槟棠痰脑绮妥顚?shí)惠。如果是在別的早餐攤，一個(gè)粽子就要兩三塊錢。一個(gè)月下來(lái)可是一筆不小的數(shù)哪。”

另一名學(xué)生深情地說(shuō)：“父母每天給我兩元錢吃早餐，因?yàn)槟棠痰牡帮炛灰迕X一個(gè)，我吃兩個(gè)還能存下一元錢哩。有時(shí)忘了帶零錢，奶奶總是笑著說(shuō)，先吃吧，下次來(lái)補(bǔ)就行了?！?/p>

而在教師祝春霞眼里，為學(xué)生提供早餐的這位老奶奶特別慈祥可親，每天早上看見(jiàn)她，心里就覺(jué)得無(wú)限溫馨，并且已完全融入到自己的生活里。祝春霞說(shuō)：“哪怕你不會(huì)去她那里吃早飯，哪怕你沒(méi)有與她有太多交流，但只要看見(jiàn)奶奶，心里就感到暖洋洋的。什么叫正能量，我想這就是吧?！?/p>

毛磊曾是這所學(xué)校的學(xué)生，吃過(guò)幾次毛奶奶的早餐已記不清了。長(zhǎng)大后的毛磊參軍去了外地，沒(méi)想到，從部隊(duì)轉(zhuǎn)業(yè)回到家鄉(xiāng)，他驚訝地發(fā)現(xiàn)毛奶奶依然還在原處賣早餐，依然是老價(jià)格?！翱匆?jiàn)早餐奶奶，我感到特別親切。說(shuō)真的，在我記憶中，沒(méi)有比奶奶的早餐更可口、更有家鄉(xiāng)味了，因?yàn)檫@是家的味道，是奶奶做的味道?！?/p>

最愛(ài)聽(tīng)“早餐奶奶”的稱呼

毛師花老人1933年出生，老家在江山的江郎山下。新中國(guó)成立后，沒(méi)讀過(guò)書的她獨(dú)自一人來(lái)到衢江畔的黃壇口學(xué)裁縫，結(jié)婚后隨丈夫輾轉(zhuǎn)于全國(guó)各大水電站工地，靠給工友們縫縫補(bǔ)補(bǔ)賺取生活費(fèi)，直到兩人年老回到黃壇口。

丈夫去世后，老人獨(dú)自住在村里。她的子女在衢州市區(qū)工作，家庭條件也還不錯(cuò)，都希望母親與他們住在一起，安享晚年，可老人還想再做點(diǎn)事情。手工裁縫早已衰落，老人就選擇擺早餐攤——做早餐投入成本不大，既能發(fā)揮蒸煮手藝，更能服務(wù)眾人。

老人把早餐攤擺在鄉(xiāng)中心小學(xué)門口，她想，那些忙于學(xué)業(yè)、上學(xué)總是步履匆匆的孩子們最需要一份熱乎乎的早點(diǎn)。1993年一個(gè)極其普通的日子，老人把一個(gè)最簡(jiǎn)單的早餐攤，擺在了學(xué)校門口的一處轉(zhuǎn)角，很快吸引了正在尋找方便而實(shí)惠的早餐的孩子們。自己的早餐攤竟這樣受歡迎，這是老人不曾預(yù)料到的；而這早餐攤擺了23年，而且還在擺下去，這是眾人沒(méi)有預(yù)料到的。

事實(shí)上，哪怕最簡(jiǎn)單的早餐，要把它操持好，仍然是件十分辛苦的活。23年來(lái)，即便在寒冬，每天凌晨1點(diǎn)鐘老人就起床，手腳不停地生起煤爐、煮上粽子，接著磨豆?jié){、裹米團(tuán)、拌面糊、做菜餡，最后熬稀粥……一切準(zhǔn)備停當(dāng)已近6點(diǎn)鐘。老人把早餐及用具分兩次用三輪車運(yùn)抵那處轉(zhuǎn)角。老人的眼神不太好，往往用一條小狗做向?qū)А?/p>

老人坐在那里，瞇著眼休息，靜等孩子們的到來(lái)。她把時(shí)間掐算得極準(zhǔn)，早起的孩子快來(lái)了，必須動(dòng)手煎蛋餅和糯米粿了！煎好，第一群孩子果然來(lái)到！一天最忙碌的售賣時(shí)間就此開始。

老人非常喜歡孩子，愛(ài)護(hù)每一個(gè)來(lái)她早餐攤的學(xué)生。她對(duì)所有來(lái)買早餐的孩子都叫“mei”。在衢州方言里，“mei”是一種對(duì)家中小孩的親昵稱呼。老人說(shuō)，盡管擺早餐攤確實(shí)辛苦，從賣完早點(diǎn)、打掃攤位衛(wèi)生，到再去市場(chǎng)買各種食材，一圈忙下來(lái)，就只剩下幾小時(shí)的睡覺(jué)時(shí)間了，卻有很多樂(lè)趣在其中。“早餐奶奶”，是孩子們對(duì)她習(xí)慣的稱謂。一聲親熱的呼喚，能讓她疲憊頓消。

貼錢售賣，心甘情愿

毛師花老人售賣早餐是筆虧本生意。制作原料的漲價(jià)是不爭(zhēng)的事實(shí)。現(xiàn)在的價(jià)格怎能與23年前的價(jià)格相比？可老人的早點(diǎn)售價(jià)從未漲過(guò)。如今有不少人被老人的事跡所感動(dòng)，常常低價(jià)賣貨給她，比如12元一斤的豬肉。但再低的進(jìn)價(jià)也無(wú)法做出5毛錢一份的粽子、蛋餅、米粿、豆?jié){、稀飯。“這個(gè)前兩年8塊錢一斤，今年12塊了?！崩先酥钢郎系闹ヂ轲W料告訴筆者。

這么多年來(lái)究竟虧本多少，老人從來(lái)沒(méi)有算過(guò)，反正她每月1040元養(yǎng)老金基本貼補(bǔ)進(jìn)去，尤其是在近幾年。與老人的早餐攤相鄰的一家早餐鋪的主人發(fā)出切身感嘆：“如今的5毛錢能買什么？如果沒(méi)有倒貼，那就是個(gè)神話了！”

老人則認(rèn)為，自己擺這個(gè)早餐攤，從未想賺錢，而是在做善事?！斑@里的不少學(xué)生是從山里來(lái)的，家庭經(jīng)濟(jì)條件不好，如果我的早點(diǎn)漲價(jià)了，有的孩子不肯花錢吃怎么辦？吃不飽怎么辦？”顯然，老人最關(guān)心的還是孩子。很多人還知道，不光售價(jià)低廉，老人收錢時(shí)幾乎從來(lái)不看收進(jìn)多少，一些孩子有時(shí)給少了她也不在乎，還經(jīng)常主動(dòng)減免一些。

23年來(lái)，老人已騎壞4輛三輪車，更換過(guò)四五十只煤爐。碗，不知已被毛手毛腳的孩子打碎過(guò)多少只了，但她從未要孩子們賠償。她說(shuō)，她最在乎的，仍是孩子們吃飽后滿意的神情、開心的笑聲。

子女們?cè)缫褳槟赣H建起了一幢4層樓的新房，但老人一直住在房齡已超50年的老屋里，因?yàn)槔衔菘拷鼘W(xué)校。老屋有小院，養(yǎng)著雞鴨，種著蔬菜，還晾滿干貨。進(jìn)了屋子，像個(gè)大倉(cāng)庫(kù)：外間堆著柴火、煤球和桌椅；中間是工作間，放有糧油及各色調(diào)料；里間是臥室，擺著大冰柜；雖然擁擠，卻收拾得干干凈凈，一點(diǎn)異味都沒(méi)有。

子女們勸說(shuō)母親頤養(yǎng)天年，但不管用?！叭チ顺抢飼?huì)閑出病的。我這個(gè)年紀(jì)早就不求什么，能做一件有意思的事情就行。在這里，看見(jiàn)‘mei，聽(tīng)見(jiàn)‘mei的讀書聲，我心里就舒暢?！崩先苏嬲\(chéng)地說(shuō)。

善舉引來(lái)眾人義舉

沒(méi)法說(shuō)服母親歇手，子女們轉(zhuǎn)而以一種支持、幫助的形式，來(lái)成全母親的心愿。

毛師花老人的養(yǎng)老金由兒子葉發(fā)領(lǐng)取，于是他利用休息時(shí)間，去農(nóng)貿(mào)市場(chǎng)采購(gòu)主要食材，這樣的日子已延續(xù)了15年。為了常年幫助母親，葉發(fā)在2008年買了一輛面包車，專門用于拉貨，如今換了一輛越野車，但仍兼著貨車功能。

兩個(gè)女兒也不時(shí)幫母親添置碗筷、煤爐等物品。老人的臥室里有只塞滿換洗衣服的行李包，那是大女兒葉仙幫襯母親做事、經(jīng)常來(lái)住幾天用的?！翱稍谶@里睡一晚，回去要補(bǔ)三天覺(jué)，因?yàn)槟赣H的勞動(dòng)習(xí)慣、生活習(xí)慣，與我們不太一樣?！比~仙每次來(lái)到這里，還抽空為母親按摩身子。小女兒則專門從上海寄來(lái)舒展筋骨的貼膏，因?yàn)槟赣H的腰椎間盤突出癥已越來(lái)越嚴(yán)重。

連70多歲的弟弟毛永森，也來(lái)幫助姐姐。他能做的是，買來(lái)山柴，一一劈好，讓侄子專程從江山老家運(yùn)來(lái)給姑姑用。石磨壞了，也由他專門趕來(lái)修復(fù)。

老人的事跡越傳越廣，引來(lái)了不少志愿者，黃壇口村37歲的志愿者吳利平就是其中之一。吳利平常在一大早趕到老人家中，幫她把桌子凳子、煤爐碗盤一一搬上三輪車，護(hù)送她到小學(xué)附近設(shè)攤處。“奶奶的事跡太感動(dòng)人了，沒(méi)法阻止她擺早餐攤，只能盡我所能幫助她?！眳抢秸f(shuō)。

村里的另外一名志愿者方誼也常趕到早餐攤，幫著老人張羅。幫助老人的還有早從這所學(xué)校畢業(yè)的市民，甚至還有在校的小學(xué)生。雖然小學(xué)生忙于學(xué)業(yè)，幫不了老人多少，但遞盤洗碗這類舉手之勞的小事，已讓老人深感暖心。

有那么多人前來(lái)幫助，老人的積極性更高了。當(dāng)有人提出替代老人擺早餐攤時(shí)，老人不無(wú)幽默地說(shuō)，我現(xiàn)在還能做得動(dòng)，我能做到100歲。如果哪一天我趴下了，不能動(dòng)了，就請(qǐng)你們把這件好事再做下去。

23年如水流逝的歲月，23年源源不息的愛(ài)心。一份份簡(jiǎn)單的早點(diǎn)里，濃縮了老人的仁義和關(guān)愛(ài)，集聚老人的信念和堅(jiān)守。我們從這極其平凡的事跡里，可以看到善良，可以看到優(yōu)良傳統(tǒng)，那都出于一顆奉獻(xiàn)之心。

Grandma Mao Shihua has been selling breakfast to school children for 24 years. Her breakfast stall is at a street corner close to Huangtankou Town Central Primary School， Qujiang District， Quzhou， a key city in southwestern Zhejiang.

Her business is small： two small square tables， seven stools， four ovens， and a small work table topped with food ingredients， seasonings， bowls and chopsticks and a small tricycle which she uses to carry things home after breakfast time is over.

Surprisingly， all the items at her stall were sold at fixed 50 cents in 1993 and they are still 50 cents today except the tea-flavored egg， which was raised to 1 yuan in January 2017. It is said jokingly that hers is very probably the cheapest breakfast in Zhejiang. It is probably true.

When she started this breakfast business， she didnt know it would last and didnt know she would never raise prices.

She was born in 1933 in a village at the foot of the scenic Jianglang Mountain in Quzhou. She never received any school education. After the founding of the Peoples Republic in 1949， she came to Huangtankou to be a seamstress. After she got married， she followed her husband， a hydraulic power station construction worker， to construction sites across the country. She worked as a seamstress at construction sites. She and her husband came back home to Huangtankou after he retired. After her husband passed away， she continued to live in the village. Her adult children asked her to move in with them. She declined. Tailoring， outmoded， was no longer a possible choice. So she decided to be a breakfast provider. It was an ordinary day in 1993 when she set up her simple stall at a street corner at the biggest primary school in Huangtankou.

Though what she sells is nothing fancy， all the backstage chores are time-consuming and exhausting. She gets up at 1 oclock in the morning and gets to work. She starts the fire in the ovens， puts rice dumplings into the wok and begins to boil them. She grinds and gets soybean milk. She makes rice balls， flour paste， and vegetable stuffing， and prepares congee. When all is done， it is about six in the morning. She needs two trips to carry all the food and equipment to the breakfast site. Her eyesight is not as good as it was years ago. Nowadays she needs a dog to guide her to her destination.

At her breakfast stall， she sits quietly for a while counting time before the first wave of kids appears. Then she starts working and gets ready. After the breakfast time is over， she cleans up and buys food ingredients for next morning before she comes home to sleep. What a tight routine for a grandma！

But Mao Shihua loves kids. Her love for kids makes her feel good. Children never hesitate to call her Breakfast Grandma. This endearing name warms her heart. Making children happy makes her life meaningful.

Hers is no longer a business. It loses money. Prices for food ingredients arent what they were 24 years ago. Some suppliers are willing to support her and sell her food ingredients including pork at no-profit prices. Still， nearly all her 1，040 yuan monthly pension goes into her breakfast stall so that her business can go on. Over the past 23 years， she has used up 4 tricycles and 40 plus ovens and countless bowls.

She doesnt want to move to the four-story house her children have built for her. Her 50-year-old house in the village is much closer to the school. And the courtyard is convenient for her business. She keeps a vegetable garden there. Her chickens and ducks roam the courtyard. The house is like a workshop. Though crowded with things she needs to run her breakfast stall， the house is clean and orderly and nothing is smelly.

Her son and two daughters help her. Her son has been her buyer of major food ingredients for past 15 years. In 2008， he bought a minivan to transport the stuff for his mothers breakfast operation. Her two daughters come over at regular times every week to stay with their mom. And her brother， now in his 70s， sends his son to transport firewood， all chopped up to small sizes for her ovens， from her home village to Huangtankou. The niece comes over to fix the stone wheel that grinds soybeans whenever it is out of order.

Many residents at the village volunteer to help， too. All this help makes Mao Shihuas breakfast operation possible.

Her breakfast fills children with love and her story touches the heart of people. In January 2017， Breakfast Grandma was honored as one of the People of Zhejiang 2016. “She is the beauty， kindness， love， charity at the little street corner，” say the organizers of the People of Zhejiang in a poetic statement.