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原宿風潮 永遠年輕,永遠忠于自我

2017-04-26 06:25:45
空中之家 2017年5期

原宿風潮 永遠年輕,永遠忠于自我

Harajuku Trend:Freedom to Dress

Right outside the seventh stop of Tokyo’s busiest metro line, the Yamanote Line, you’ll be amazed. People dress themselves in styles like “Lolita”, “Furyo”, “Dark Style” etc., proudly demonstrating their free will on one of the most judgment-free streets in Japan.

Text by Monkey Translation by Susi Yuan Photos by Getty, Chuck Pedro

A girl hides behind a mannequin in front of her shop on Takeshita-dori.

自由,是這里最重要且唯一的時尚基因。

從東京最繁忙的通勤鐵路山手線的第七站出來后,你脫口而出的第一個詞有很大概率會是:Amazing!Lolita、暴走族、不良風、黑暗系……如同踏入潮流圈的武林大會,每個從你身邊路過的人仿佛都自成一派的表達著自己的時尚絕學。

Mannequin decked out in some crazy fashion in the backstreets of Harajuku.

This metro station leading to the outdoor fashion stage we just talked about is called Harajuku. Around here, you can witness a full bite of Tokyo's street culture.

“Harajuku is the only neighbourhood in Japan that is able to foster fashion”. In the 1970s, Harajuku gained its status as the fashion leader of Japan through the recognition of multiple local fashion magazines. After going through the periods of imitating the West and the “Takenoko-zoku”teenage fashion, the word “Harajuku” has now become the synonym of unique personality and originality.

Clothes of contrasting colours and various hair colours are the typical features of the Harajuku style, and it was once mentioned in the same breath with the alternative culture. But the core of the Harajuku style is more focused on the attitude of “you are what you wear”. This attitude of being your unique true self has set many young souls free, giving them an opportunity to put on clothes other than shirts and ties.

Mineoka Namiko

這個地鐵站叫做原宿,由此輻射開的一片街區被稱為“年輕人之街”,是東京街頭文化的重要代表之一。

“原宿是日本唯一一個孕育時尚的街區”,自上世紀70年代通過時尚雜志宣傳而占據了日本潮流領導地位的原宿形象,經歷了模仿西洋時期,“竹筍族”少年潮時期后,如今成為了張揚個性、與眾不同的代名詞。

色彩沖擊的服裝與七彩斑斕的發色是大眾對原宿風的普遍認知,也曾一度將其與非主流相提并論。但原宿風的核心更在于一種“穿著即自我”的態度,這份敢做自己、敢不從眾的呈現也讓原宿風近年來擁有了更強更廣的影響力。

沒有風格,也不被定義,從竹下通到里原宿,數以千計的個性小店店主,獨立品牌設計師與肆意行走街頭的潮人們為“原宿風”提供著一直被模仿,無法去預測的時尚活力。

Anji of Salz Tokyo is seen on the street in Harajuku during Tokyo Fashion Week wearing a vintage antique kimono in Tokyo

Two young guys with cool haircuts on Omotesando-dori near the intersection of Meijidori, the busiest centre of Harajuku.

Yuri Nakagawa

Ayumi Seto poses alongside a wall on Melrose Avenue

Young girls with dyed hair walk out of Harajuku Station.

Model∶ Sumiya Naoki Hat∶ HEART MADE FACTROY Bag∶ UIYI

How to blend in Harajuku

1.The Harajuku style is not confined by colourfulness. However, collaging colours, contrasting colours and graduated colours are certainly a quick way to help you stand out from the crowd.

2. Costumes with more layers

3. Eyeballs, starry skies and equilateral triangles are among the most common elements in the Harajuku style. However, how to creatively match them is the key.

4. Dare to be creative and original.

5. Vintage has made its way time back to Harajuku. Classic items that are now out of production fit in perfectly in the Harajuku neighbourhood. One needs not worry about “outfit clash” by wearing vintage.

6. If you want to keep up with the most authentic Harajuku trends, then you wouldn't want to miss the street snap magazines and websites. The photographers of the FRUiTS (a fashion magazine for girls) and Tune (for boys) lurk in the streets of Harajuku every day to hunt for the latest fashion materials. Next time you pass by Tokyo, put on your most daring outfit and, who knows, you might become the next Harajuku trendsetter!

Sandals∶ Claire's

Second floor of the Design Festa Art Gallery. Anyone can pay to have their work shown in this gallery.

六個錦囊,讓你成為行走的原宿icon

1.原宿風不一定要五顏六色,但對于色彩的混搭與配合十分注重。掌握好拼貼色、撞色與漸變色的運用能讓你從人潮中迅速脫穎而出。

2.穿出層次感,分層的衣服可以讓你混搭更多、更廣泛的風格。

3.眼球、星空、正三角是原宿風里最常見的幾個元素,如何將簡單的元素搭出新意是原宿潮人們永恒的思考題。

4.標新立異是重點,很多人在買了素材和衣服以后,還會對其進行縫制改裝,既能與別人不同,也能更為符合自己的審美。

5.近年來原宿較為盛行的風潮是古著混搭,經典而又不再生產的古著單品完美契合著“我就是我,是不撞衫的煙火”的原宿style。

6.想捕捉最正點的原宿風格,街拍雜志與網站是一個不容錯過的選擇。由日本街拍界教父青木正一創辦的《FRUiTS》(女生版)與《Tune》(男生版)的攝影師們每天都會“埋伏”在原宿街頭尋找素材。下一個引領亞洲時尚的人,會是某天路過原宿街頭的你么?

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