Study on the image of aristocratic women's cosmetics in Cao's academy of painting in Mogao Grottoes

Abstract： Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes in the period around art academies is in around the ruling period， the period around the family and the surrounding minority keep in close contact， so this time there are many ethnic minority women in the murals in the Mogao Grottoes， can be seen from the mural image ornaments of the central plains and the minority of women image has the mutual fusion phenomenon during the period of Cao surname academies.

Key words： Mogao Grottoes Cao Shi painting institute female decorative image

Cao's painting academy was in the five dynasties and the northern song dynasty. Around the ruling in Dunhuang， modelled on the central plains set up academies， hired a group of skilled limner of Mogao Grottoes unified planning and construction of the collective is made， that this time digging grottoes and painting style has the unique and unified style， so also called around academies. Therefore， the adornment of aristocratic women in Cao's academy in Mogao Grottoes is as follows.

1.Image analysis of female phoenix coronet in Cao's academy of painting in Mogao Grottoes

Phoenix coronet is the most expensive in the first dress of princess Tian in Huibu. In the Mogao Grottoes， there are 7 heavenly princesses all wear peach-shaped phoenix coronet， among which the phoenix coronet of lady Li Shengtian， queen of the state of Yutian， is more delicate and belongs to phoenix flower coronet. The origin of phoenix coronet can be traced back to the Qin dynasty. In the Qin dynasty， phoenix flowers had already appeared. Women in the 130th grottoes of the Tang dynasty in the Mogao Grottoes of Dunhuang have the image of putting the flowers of war into a Bun. In the caves 61， 98， 100 and 108 of Mogao Grottoes， a large number of women wearing peach-shaped phoenix coronet appeared. For example， on the south side of the east wall of cave 98， the queen of the state of Yutian， Cao Shi， wore a phoenix golden crown studded with green gems. In the north of the east wall gate of the 61st grottoes grottoes， the statue of the daughter of the king of Yutian is provided for. The crown is decorated in a bun. After the song dynasty， this kind of phoenix coronet was officially identified as a legal uniform and included in the system of canopy and canopy. The later imperial concubine of the song dynasty wore phoenix coronet on the most solemn occasions， such as receiving the book and paying tribute to the dynasty. In the southern song dynasty， the image of the dragon was added to the phoenix coronet.

2.Analysis on the images of aristocratic women in Cao's academy of painting in Mogao Grottoes

Walking is another kind of valuable and colorful jewelry for ancient Chinese women besides hairpin hairpin hairpin. According to the records in the book of the later Han dynasty， \"the empress went to the temple for the 1 bun， the step shake， the zan Er\"， it can be seen that the step shake was a kind of precious jewelry at least in the Han dynasty. Since its appearance， it has been used in the past dynasties. It can be seen from the documents that its shape and structure are constantly changing， and its texture is mainly gold and jade.

In the Tang dynasty， the use of walking wave has been quite common. In the late Tang dynasty， walking wave jewelry can be seen in the offerings of the family members of madame Li Futu and Zhang Chengfeng in the 130th grottoes of Mogao Grottoes and the 9th grottoes of the late tang dynasty. In the caves of Mogao Grottoes 61， 98， 100， 108， etc.， the Uighur princesses are all in a high bun， wearing peach-shaped crowns or phoenix crowns， hairpins and hairpins， and they are all put in step on both sides.

3. Image analysis of mother-of-pearl flower for aristocratic women in Cao Shi academy of Mogao Grottoes

The five generations of murals in the Mogao Grottoes are the offerings of the princess of heaven， red cheeks， blushing， forehead， eyebrows， and face decals. Besides day princess kucha portraits of the other lady， maid also impose the same act the role ofing， such as the 61th wat to wall east， south kucha ranks 4， 5， 6， 7， 8， and lady support like， they are two buccal fat red shading， forehead， brow， facial floral twinkle； On the south side of the east gate of the 98th grottoes， behind the portrait of Cao's relatives， there are four figures of maid-in-waiting， which are also decorated with mother-of-pearl flowers between the eyebrows.

Hua tin， also known as Hua zi， for ancient women's facial makeup law. As surface decorative floral twinkle， is the material such as gold and silver， platinum， pearl， Cui， processed， carved flowers， birds， fan， butterfly shape decorations， and stick it on the forehead， eyebrows， temples and thought in areas such as ornaments. Ornaments from the historical records， floral twinkle in the majority with the plum blossom， look from the Mogao Grottoes murals portraits in the kucha， since tang dynasty to tang dynasty， the Tang dynasty， tang dynasty， five dynasties， song， women on the forehead as a plum blossom makeup is very much also， and its shape or a type. In addition， there are bird， swallow and so on.

In a word， after the middle and late Tang dynasties， mother-of-pearl and dimples have become quite common customs for women in central plains and other places. Huihe day princess floral twinkle， act the role of dimples on the face， that they are influenced by the ornaments of the Han nationality culture， embodies the Hu Han culture combined with the characteristics of， that is around him to rebel regime and marriage Huihe image portrayal.

作者簡介：

郝建芬（1993.3——），女，漢族， 籍貫：河南焦作人，齊魯工業大學（山東省科學院）藝術學院，16級研究生，碩士學位， 專業：設計學，研究方向：服裝設計與形象策劃。