武夷奇茗 巖骨花香Rock Charm and Floral Fragrance of Wuyi Rock Tea

文/五花肉

武夷奇茗 巖骨花香Rock Charm and Floral Fragrance of Wuyi Rock Tea

文/五花肉

“溪邊奇茗冠天下，武夷仙人自古栽”，作為烏龍茶中的極品，武夷巖茶兼具綠茶清香和紅茶醇美，蜚聲中外。

The tea planted along the stream is world-renowned, and Wuyi mystical saints have planted it since

ancient time.As the top of oolong tea, Wuyi Rock Tea, with characteristics of green tea’s fresh aroma and black tea’s mellow taste, is well-known at home and abroad.

名山絕壁孕育巖骨花香 Born in Cliff of Famous Mountain

《茶經》云：“上者生爛石、中者生礫壤、下者生黃土”。武夷山的懸崖絕壁，造就了武夷巖茶別具一格的“巖骨花香”之韻。

As written inThe Classic of Tea, tea grows best in eroded, rocky ground, while loose and gravely soil is the second best and yellow earth is the least ideal.The steep precipices and cliffs of Mount Wuyi create the most suitable growth conditions for tea, contributing to Wuyi Rock Tea's unique fl avor of rock essence and fl oral fragrance.

“巖韻”是武夷巖茶獨有的特征，也是衡量品質優次的重要標準。武夷山巖石主要由頁巖、礫巖、石英班巖、紅沙巖等巖石構成，巖石表層以紅壤、黃壤為主，有機質含量高，pH值為4～6。茶農利用石隙、石縫，沿邊砌筑石岸種茶，形成了“巖巖有茶，非巖不茶”的特色景觀。As the unique feature of Wuyi rock tea, rock essence is a significant criterion to evaluate its quality. The rocks of Mount Wuyi mainly consist of shale, conglomerate, quartz porphyry and red sand stone. The mantle of rock is principally comprised of red earth and yellow earth, which possess a high content of organic matter with the pH from 4 to 6. The tea growers take the advantage of rock crevices and plant tea trees in the masonry rock bank, which forms a special landscape: any rock is planted with tea and any tea cannot be without rock.

傳統工藝入選中國非遺Traditional Craft Selected into the Chinese Intangible Cultural Heritage List

武夷巖茶屬半發酵茶，制作工藝介于綠茶與紅茶之間，堪稱所有茶類中工序最多、工藝最復雜的一種。其中，最關鍵的烘焙工藝，有“武夷焙法，實甲天下”的美譽。

Wuyi Rock Tea belongs to semi-fermented tea. Its processing technique sets between green tea and red tea. Among all tea varieties, it has the most procedures and the most complex technique, among which roasting is considered as the best technique around the world.

傳統手工武夷巖茶通常采用炭焙、暗焙，在炭火上覆上炭灰，火在灰中，持續平穩地給予茶葉熱度。高檔巖茶一般比較幼嫩、耐火力差，只有“低溫、短時、薄攤”，才能保證茶葉的自然花香和天然品質。2006年，武夷巖茶（大紅袍）傳統制作工藝入選中國非物質文化遺產“傳統手工技藝”名錄。

Traditional handmade Wuyi Rock Tea generally adopts the way of charcoal roasting and dark roasting: cover the charcoal fire with coal ash so as to ensure the constant heat. Commonly, highend rock tea appears to be tender with poor flame resistance. Only when being satisfied with low temperate, short time and thin spread, can it ensure its floral fragrance and natural quality. In 2006, its traditional tea processing technique was selected into the traditional handicraft category of Chinese intangible cultural heritage list.

懸壺高沖細品巖茶真味Holding up Teapot and Careful Pouring Achieve Natural Flavor

按照國家標準GB/T 23776-2009《茶葉感官審評方法》，烏龍茶以1:22的茶水比沖泡為宜，無論用壺還是蓋碗，水要高沖，即常言的“懸壺高沖”，以促茶葉松動出味。浸泡時間的長短，因茶而異，精茶，一般10～20秒左右，粗茶略長，二三泡后可視個人口味輕重依次延長浸泡時間。武夷巖茶“重在吃水”，因此要細心感悟其滋味，端起品杯之時，做到先觀其色，后聞其香，再品其味，才能領悟武夷巖茶的巖韻。

According to the national standardGB/T 23776-2009 Methodology of Sensory Evaluation of Tea, oolong is appropriate to be brewing with the tea and water proportion of 1:22. No matter using teapot or cover bowl, it requires to pour out hot water from a higher position. In this way, tea leaves can be spread out

and its pure fl avor can be better tasted. The steeping time is different: fi ne tea takes 10 to 20 seconds and crude tea takes more. After fi nishing two or three pots,

you can prolong the steeping time according to the personal preference. The key of savoring Wuyi Rock Tea is about drinking tea soup. In order to enjoy the rock charm, you’d better watch its color fi rst and then smell it and fi nally taste it.

結 語Conclusion

“三十六峰，峰峰有寺，九十九巖，巖巖皆茶”。武夷山以她秀絕的山水和深厚的底蘊，孕育出武夷巖茶的質樸、醇美和巖韻，在歷代茶人的弘揚推崇下，不斷綻放出歷久彌新的中華茶道之美。

Each of its 36 mountains has a temple, each of 99 rocks is planted with tea. Mount Wuyi breeds the Wuyi Rock Tea with the characteristics of plainness, mellowness and rock charm. Through the generations of tea lovers' efforts in maintaining and carrying forward, Wuyi Rock Tea continuously unfolds the beauty of Chinese teaism..

（支持單位：上海市質量和標準化研究院）