紫外輻照對絲素蛋白結構的影響及真絲抗紫外整理

王琳 王平 余圓圓 袁久剛 王強

摘要： 真絲纖維光穩(wěn)定性較差，易發(fā)生黃變。文章選用絲素溶液和真絲織物，考察了紫外輻照對絲素蛋白和真絲纖維結構與性能的影響;應用納米TiO2抗紫外整理劑對真絲織物進行抗紫外整理，并評價了整理效果。結果表明，延長紫外輻照時間，絲素蛋白溶液色深增加，絲素相對分子質量增加，其原因可能與絲素中酪氨酸酚羥基氧化成醌類物質，絲素蛋白發(fā)生交聯(lián)相關。優(yōu)化后真絲織物抗紫外整理工藝如下：納米TiO2整理劑4%，軋余率90%，焙烘溫度130℃，時間80s。經(jīng)上述整理后真絲織物UPF值達到50+，明顯優(yōu)于空白樣，紫外老化測試中整理織物的黃度較低，強力下降也較少。

關鍵詞： 真絲織物;絲素蛋白;紫外輻照;納米TiO2;抗紫外整理

中圖分類號： TS195.644 ? 文獻標志碼： A ? 文章編號： 1001-7003（2019）05-0008-06 ? ?引用頁碼： 051102

Abstract： Silk fibers exhibit unsatisfactory light stability and easily cause yellowing in air. In this paper， fibroin solution and silk fabric were chosen to investigate the effects of ultraviolet （UV） irradiation on the structure and the performances of silk fibroin and silk fabric. Meanwhile， anti-UV finishing of silk fabric was carried out by using a nano-TiO2 finishing agent， and the finishing effect was evaluated. The results revealed that extending UV irradiation time led to the increase in color depth of silk fibroin solution and the molecular weight of fibroin. The possible reason was that tyrosine phenolic hydroxyl group in fibroin was oxidized to quinone substances， and cross-linking happened to fibroin. After optimization， anti-UV finishing process of silk fabric is as below： nano-TiO2 finishing agent 4%， pickup 90%， baking temperature 130℃， time 80s. After the anti-UV finishing， the obtained UPF value of the silk fabric reached 50+， which was noticeably higher than that of the blank sample. Furthermore， the yellow value and strength loss for the finished silk fabric were also much lower compared to those of the blank sample.

Key words： silk fabric; silk fibroin; ultraviolet （UV） irradiation; nano-TiO2; anti-UV finishing

絲素蛋白約占蠶絲纖維組分的80%，主要由甘氨酸、丙氨酸、絲氨酸、酪氨酸等18種氨基酸組成，真絲在濕加工、穿著與儲存過程中，易受到空氣和紫外線影響而發(fā)生黃變[1-2]，其原因可能與絲素蛋白分子在紫外線、水分及氧氣條件下，產(chǎn)生自由基，再與氧氣作用進行光氧化反應生成泛黃基團相關。日光中引起黃變的紫外線波長主要在200～331nm，而絲素分子中的芳香類氨基酸的紫外吸收光譜在250～300nm，因此這類氨基酸能吸收紫外波長引起泛黃[3-4]。目前，真絲抗紫外整理方法較多，一般是借助于浸軋烘焙、涂層或軋堆法等，將紫外線屏蔽劑施加在真絲纖維表面，通過反射、吸收等方法增加絲織物的抗紫外效果。……