“百縣千碗”里的浙江風情

葉晨

《世說新語》里有一段關于吃的有趣對話，說是晉武帝司馬炎的駙馬王濟曾經傲慢地問出生于江南的大才子陸機：“你們江南有什么東西，能和我這兒的羊酪相比？”

這位王濟，可是當時都城洛陽鼎鼎有名的大吃貨。有一次，他宴請皇帝司馬炎，派人上了一道“乳豬”，司馬炎品嘗后贊不絕口。《晉書》記載，“蒸肫甚美，帝問其故，答曰：‘以人乳蒸之。”好家伙，用人的乳汁做菜，王濟在吃法上的奢侈和講究可見一斑。

不過，就算面對的是知名貴族美食家，出仕中原的江南人陸機絲毫沒有退卻，他淡淡地回答：千里莼羹。

一生熱愛江南水土的陸機或許明白，以素雅、尚鮮、重時節為特色的江南菜系，終究會成為帶有鮮明文化印記的頂級美食代表。

眼下的季節，浙江迎來了好天氣，和煦的春風與陽光叫人泛起游意，所謂“今朝新雨霽，一笑整巾屨[jù]”。而品嘗當地美食，肯定是春游中非常重要的部分，美食和美景結合，應季食材配上當地的傳統做法，可以讓味蕾和心情一起跳舞。

那么，在春季浙里該吃什么？“百縣千碗”！

此前，由浙江省文化和旅游廳主辦，各市旅游部門、浙江省飯店業協會、浙江省餐飲行業協會聯合協辦的“詩畫浙江·百縣千碗”旅游美食推廣活動挖掘了全省各地特色美食，各地分別選出最具地方代表性的10碗美食，全省共有89個縣（市、區），加起來可謂是“百縣千碗”。那就讓我們跟隨“百縣千碗”中的春季時令菜去擁抱春天吧！

杭州富陽：春江老鮮

“桃花流水鱖魚肥。”春季，桃花盛開，富春江出產的鱖魚也正值肥美鮮嫩，推薦你去原產地杭州富陽等地品嘗。

當地有一道以鱖魚為主料的“春江老鮮”，曾是過去富春江邊大戶人家宴請貴賓必不可少的大菜之一，后經大廚的傳承改良，開始走入尋常人家。做法上，將主料鱖魚和江蟹、江蝦、黃蜆及山珍、鞭筍、菌菇、絲瓜及中草藥等慢火燉制，調味簡單，出鍋后湯色純白，嘗一口回味無窮。

搭配美景：龍門古鎮、野生動物園等

寧波奉化：書圣剡溪鵝

“落日花邊剡溪水，晴煙竹里會稽峰。”我們常聽到的“浙東唐詩之路”，指的就是一條唐代詩人往來比較頻繁的旅游風景線，它自紹興古鏡湖、浙東運河、曹娥江至剡溪，再溯源至如今的臺州天臺，對唐詩發展有著重大影響。

當然，自古美景、美食也密不可分。剡溪流經奉化，從此開闊平緩。清粼粼的溪水養育出了岸上肉質肥嫩的大白鵝。尤其是清明節前后，剡溪沿岸水草豐茂，鵝肉最為鮮美。

書圣剡溪鵝選用正宗的溪口剡溪鵝。將鵝肉料理干凈，用特定的香料鹵煮至七八成熟，待冷卻之后切成小塊，盛至鍋中，加入蔥姜提味去腥，放入原味高湯，然后煮至鵝肉自然散發出濃郁的鮮香。揭蓋出鍋，再由食客在餐桌上現場制作，放入青翠嫩綠的蔬菜與鵝湯同煮，那鮮香實在讓人忍不住大快朵頤。

搭配美景：溪口、雪竇山

湖州南潯：鞭筍潯味繡花錦

野食，是春季美味的主題之一，此時不僅有馬蘭頭、蕨菜等野蔬，還有驚雷筍等高山時鮮。你不必入田園爬深山，就能輕松地在南潯古鎮找到一道特別的時蔬料理。

這道鞭筍潯味繡花錦，以當地的特有食材繡花錦為主料，拿鞭筍來給繡花錦作配，有了筍的山林清氣托底，繡花錦的清香就更上一層樓了。據當地朋友介紹，令人吃驚的是，正宗的繡花錦只長在南潯古鎮方圓十里之內，出了十里就徒有其形而無其香了——江南食材出產地域的重要性不言而喻了。

搭配美景：南潯古鎮

溫州文成：白落地溫蛋

“白落地”，學名又叫“銅錘玉帶草”，是一味清熱去火的良藥。溫州文成人常用它的鮮葉來泡茶喝，泡出的茶汁清澈碧綠，頗為爽口。

此外，白落地還可以和雞蛋炒著來吃，或者和蛋做湯喝，有個好聽的菜名，叫“白落地溫蛋”。雞蛋嫩黃、葉子鮮綠，喝著就讓人想起眼下這個嫩芽初生的春天。

搭配美景：百丈漈

衢州開化：山泉清水魚

衢州一帶清水養魚的歷史已有600多年。據《開化縣志》記載，本地人利用當地生態優勢，在自家挖塘引山泉，以青草養之，因為山區海拔高、氣溫低，魚生長緩慢，一年才可長半斤左右，常常需要養殖三四年。

如此養成的清水魚鰓色紅艷，無半點泥腥味，肉質細膩而有彈性。燒煮時得用農家柴火灶，全程不動魚身，也不揭鍋蓋，鮮嫩的魚肉自然而成。

搭配美景：臺回山、錢江源國家森林公園

舟山嵊泗：青椒炒貽貝

嵊泗貽貝，舟山方言稱之為“淡菜”，一般3月下旬就有上市，到4月中旬最肥美。舟山的春季捕撈季節，大貝殼連著小貝殼，密密實實一大片，菜市場中尤為壯觀。除去外殼和足絲的淡菜，肥軟可愛，用開水稍燙下便能輕松取下小小一只。

當下正是海島旅游季節，可以在嵊泗的花鳥島找一間沿海民宿住下，傍晚和親朋好友圍在一起剝淡菜殼，鮮香之氣縈繞左右，豈不美哉。當然，淡菜肉制作方法也多，可以用酒腌制，也可以與青椒同炒，這就看你挑的那家民宿的大廚會什么花樣了。

搭配美景：花鳥島、東極島

臺州天臺：餃餅筒

很多地方都有開春吃春餅、春卷的習俗，總稱為咬春。假如你春游臺州，那么品嘗當地的餃餅筒，恰好應了這“萬物朝新”的風俗。

隨著時代的發展，餃餅筒餡料開始變得更加隨意，或者說是更有創意，一般會有炒好的肉絲、綠豆芽、豆面、蒿菜、雞蛋絲、豆腐、韭菜、青蠶豆等等，高檔點的會再加點蟮絲、墨魚、蟶肉之類。品嘗之前，你可以先聞其味，因為面皮被煎得焦黃，不軟而脆，焦香四溢，再一口下去，你會感覺自己是在吃特大號的春卷。

搭配美景：天臺山

麗水慶元：極品鮮菇

春季，需要食鮮。此時不少的應季浙江菜中，往往會加入菌菇類的食材，起到提鮮增味的妙用。

要吃菌菇，省內推崇麗水，其境內的慶元、龍泉、云和等地均以盛產菌菇、木耳聞名。例如，慶元241香菇便是麗水市慶元縣最具代表性的香菇品種，其鮮菇口感嫩滑清香，干菇則口感脆而濃香。最常見的吃法可以參照一道當地菜肴“極品鮮菇”——將菇切花刀，用濃湯汁入味，淋上薄芡，加味極鮮醬油即可。配料和做法非常簡單，但味道卻馨香獨特，靠的就是慶元香菇傲人的品質。

搭配美景：百山祖

金華蘭溪：雞子馃

一年之計在于春，一日之計在于晨，春食往往要搭配一份精致的早飯。

在金華蘭溪的游埠古鎮，喝早茶是一種習慣。在這座古鎮上，每天早晨4點就有茶鋪開張了，6點多進入茶客最多的時候，在早茶鋪集中區域解放街上（當地也稱“早茶街”），5米寬的街道兩旁絕對已經坐滿了人。而雞子粿，是喝早茶一族青睞有加的選擇。

這種融合了豬油、瘦肉、豆腐、蔥和雞蛋的油煎餅制作過程很有特色——煎至半熟時，將雞蛋打碎，用筷子在馃皮上挑開一個小口，倒入蛋液，再將馃兩面煎至金黃，雞蛋、肉末和蔥段碰撞出獨特的香氣，內嫩外酥。

搭配美景：游埠古鎮、諸葛八卦村

Tasty Charms of Zhejiang

By Ye Chen

A legendary part of Jiangnan Zhejiang loves cooking and eating. ， a book written by Liu Yiqing （403-444）， traces this passion for finest taste to Jiangnan more than 16 centuries ago. One anecdote recorded in the book relates a brief conversation between Prince Wang Ji and Lu Ji， a court official who came from Jiangnan， which is a historical and geographic name for the lower reaches of the Yangtze River. A celebrated gourmet in the capital， the prince boastingly and arrogantly asked Lu Ji， “What do you have in Jiangnan that can be as good as sheep cheese here？” “The water shield soup，” replied calmly and simply Lu Ji without hesitation. Lu was cultured and refined enough to know the regional flavors in Jiangnan were much better. The culinary style in Jiangnan emphasizes light flavors from fresh and seasonal ingredients， much different from the heavily seasoned flavors in the north.

In 2018， the cultural and tourism authorities in Zhejiang launched a province-wide program to find the top ten dishes of each of 89 counties， county-level districts and cities in the province. The selection amounted to just a little south of 1，000 dishes in the province. Among this wide range of local dishes， many are available only in springtime.

Mandarin Fish

Fuyang， which used to be a county in Hangzhou and now a district of the city， boasts a dish of fish from Fuchun River， which traverses the picturesque county. The mandarin fish is the main ingredient of the dish， accompanied by crabs， shrimps， clams， mushrooms， bamboo shoots， and some herbals. In the past， only the wealthy people along the river could afford to give such a treat to guests. Nowadays， modified by chefs， the dish is available at a reasonable price and most people can enjoy it. The best place to sample the dish is Dragon Gate Town and the Safari Park in Fuyang.

Shanxi River Goose

This famous dish is a representative of the local cuisine of Fenghua， a county-level city in Ningbo in the east of the province where an ancient route of poetry of the Tang exists in Chinese classics. In the Tang Dynasty， the picturesque beauty of the eastern Zhejiang attracted poets all over the country. Shanxi River was part of the pilgrimage all the way to Mount Tiantai. Local people never hesitate to point out to visitors that the great local cuisine goes nicely with the great beauty of the poetry path. Cooked in broth and served with fresh seasonal vegetables， the tasty goose can be an unforgettable gourmet experience at Xikou or Xuedou Mountain， two of the best known tourist destinations in Fenghua， which attracts more than 6 million tourists a year.

Embroidered Brocade with Bamboo Shoots

The embroidered brocade in the name of this delicious dish has nothing to do with any fabric or embroidery. It is a local name for a kind of cabbage in Nanxun， a canal town in Huzhou in the north of Zhejiang. The cabbage cultivated around in Nanxun is very special. Gourmets agree that the taste isnt authentic if the cabbage comes from anywhere else five miles away from the town. This special dish helps explain why local flavors across Zhejiang are often unique. The same food ingredients may taste different five or ten miles away. It goes without saying that Nanxun is the only place where this dish is available. Chefs anywhere else have long since stopped trying to imitate.

Herb Eggs

The herb in this dish is the Common Pratia. Local people in Wencheng， a county in Wenzhou， steep it in hot water and drink as tea. And they make it a key ingredient in scrambled eggs. The spring is the best time for the herb eggs in Wencheng. And the best location for this local delicacy is at Baizhangji， Chinas tallest waterfall in a string of local tourism destinations.

Clean-Water Grass Carp

Local people in Quzhou in the mountainous southwest of Zhejiang have been raising grass carp in spring-water ponds for more than 600 years. Situated at a high altitude， these ponds are home to grass carp that feeds on grass thrown in by pond owners and grows very slowly. It usually takes a grass carp to grow in three or four years before it is big enough for dinner table. The grass carp from such a pond does issue any muddy odor and the fish meat is tender. If it is cooked in a rural kitchen with firewood， it tastes best. Restaurants at Taihui Mountain and the National Forest Park at the Headwaters of Qiantang River are most recommended.

Mussel with Green Pepper

Zhoushan Archipelago in eastern Zhejiang begins to see mussels harvested from the sea in late March every year， but the best-quality mussels are available in mid April. There are many ways to cook mussels. The best place for having a mussel feast is usually at an islanders home on a small island. It can be steeped in wine or it can be cooked with green pepper. It can depend upon the cook hired at a village inn. Never underestimate what these local cooks can do with mussels. Restaurants at Flower Birds Isle and Dongji Isle are recommended.

Dumpling Roll

The delicacy resembles the spring roll in almost all aspects， but the size is bigger and the stuffing is much more. It is usually available in the spring. In the past there were not so many ingredients rolled in. Now， as the market works pretty well and local economy has been thriving for decades， many delicious ingredients get into the stuffing such as sliced eels， cuttlefish and mussels in addition to sliced pork， mung been sprout， tarragon， tofu， egg， chives， broad bean. If you are visiting Mountain Tiantai， try the dumpling roll there so that you dont need to go out of your way to find the delicacy.

Fresh Mushroom

Qingyuan in the south of Zhejiang is best known as a county of mountains where mushroom is a major pillar of the local economy. The local people offer a dish of fresh mushroom which they proudly call Fresh Mushroom Masterpiece. It presents a minimalist style： cooked with broth and topped with several drops of soy sauce. Though Qingyuan and neighboring counties are all good at providing tourists with this dish， the best place for a tourist to enjoy this local delicacy is Baishanzu Mountain， literally the ancestor of 100 mountains， which is the second tallest peak of Zhejiang.

Pancake

Unlike some other places across the province， Youbu， a town whose history goes back to many hundreds of years ago， boasts an early morning breakfast tradition. Some teahouses in the town open up at four oclock in the morning. The biggest crowd for a cup of tea and breakfast appears at about 6 oclock. The 5-meter wide Liberation Street in downtown is nicknamed Morning Tea Street.

It is absolutely the favorite of most early risers in the town. The pancake is their favorite. The ingredients including minced lean pork， tofu， green onion， lard and egg are not what make the cake special. It is the way the egg goes into the cake. While the cake is on the pan， the cook uses a chopstick to open a tiny hole on the cake and pour the whipped egg into the cake. This may look time-consuming and not particularly efficient， but the recipe comes from a time when no one was in a hurry to go anywhere. The traditionalists in town still enjoy the pancake made this way. Tourists love it too. The best place to get a bite of the pancake is Youbu Town and Zhuge Eight-Diagram Village about 15 kilometers away from Youbu.

ceremonies at grassroots level keep history and tradition of hundred years or even thousand years alive，” she observes.