由禮及用的杯中乾坤

文/五花肉

上一期，專欄介紹了古人匠心獨具的造車之術。本期，我們從源遠流長的酒文化切入，關注由禮及用的杯中乾坤。

In the last issue, the column introduced the ancient people's sophisticated technique in chariot-making. In this issue, we start from a long-standing wine culture and pay attention to etiquette and utility in wine culture.

“杯中乾坤大，壺里日月長”，在燦爛的中華文明中，濃墨重彩的酒文化始終擁有超然的地位，上至廟堂，下至市井，雅俗共賞，源遠流長。酒文化的興盛也帶動酒器走出了一條由禮及用的發展之路。

"There is Arcanum in a vessel and livelihood in stoup". In the splendid Chinese civilization, the rich and colorful wine culture held a transcendent position, enjoying both refined and popular tastes from royal to philistines, with a long history. The prosperity of wine culture drove wine vessels out of a road of development from etiquette to utility.

禮器分六尊Six Ritual Wine Vessels

商周時期，受制于經濟水平和釀造工藝，酒的產量十分稀少，“非祀天地、祭宗廟、奉佳賓而不用”。當時酒最重要的功能是祭祀，據《禮記》記載，盛酒之器應由青銅制成，遵循“制器尚象”的標準，器型厚重，以天象、獸型等元素設計紋飾，體現對自然的敬畏。酒器按外觀尺寸從小到大依次分為六等，統稱六尊，祭祀之人須按身份等級有序取用，以小為貴。

During the Shang and Zhou dynasties, limited by economic level and brewing technology, the output of wine was very scarce, "Wine is only for worshipping heaven and earth, offering sacrifices to ancestral temples, and serving good guests". At that time,the most important function of wine was to offer sacrifices. According to "Records of Rites", the wine vessels should be made of bronze. It followed the standard that "Shape should originate from natural elements". The shape of the vessels were thick and heavy, and the decorations were designed with astronomical phenomena, animal shapes and other elements to reflect the reverence for nature. Wine vessels were divided into six categories in turn from small to large in appearance size, collectively referred to as six statues. Participants in a sacrifice must fetch the vessels in an orderly manner according to the different status. When vessel was smaller in size, it was for higher in status.

行酒辨尊卑Etiquette Standards in Wine Vessels

到了先秦后期，隨著產量的大幅提高，酒逐漸走下祭壇，成為賓客宴飲的必備佳品。酒器也從厚重的祭祀禮器向輕薄化發展，按照盛酒、飲酒、取酒等不同功能演化出不同的品類，并遵守相應的禮儀標準。以最尊貴的“爵”為例，國君向卿敬酒用玉爵，向大夫敬酒用瑤爵，向普通人敬酒則用散爵，不同材質可以“明尊卑、辨等列”。

管流爵夏代晚期 （公元前18世紀～前16世紀）

羊首獸面紋尊商代晚期 （公元前13世紀～前11世紀）

鬲父辛爵商代晚期 （公元前13世紀～前11世紀）

左：工觚商代晚期（公元前13世紀～前11世紀）

右：螭紋觚清乾隆（公元1736年～1795年）

In the late pre-Qin period, with the substantial increase in production, the status of wine was declining and became necessities for feasts. Wine vessels developed from heavy sacrificial vessels to lighter in weight and evolved into different categories according to different functions such as containing wine, drinking wine and fetching wine with corresponding etiquette standards. Taking the most distinguished " Baron" (wind vessel in ancient China) as an example, the monarch toasted ministers with jade barons, senior oきcials with Yao barons, and ordinary people used with ordinary barons. Diあerent materials accord with diあerent status.

度量顯實用Practical Metrological Standards

古人飲酒以升作為計量單位。民間一次標準的酒宴應“一獻而三酬”，主人向賓客第一次敬酒謂之“獻”，再次敬酒謂之“酬”，獻執爵而酬執觚。參考《考工記》“爵一升，觚三升”的標準，主人一次酒宴就要豪飲10升。看似有違常識，其實卻是古今對升的定義不同所致。原來，先秦的1升只相當于如今的0.2升，再考慮到當時以米酒為主，10升的酒量大致相當于如今的1瓶紅酒。

Measurement unit in ancient Chinese wine feast was"Sheng"(about 200mL).A standard process of toast in banquet included " one offer and three rewards".The first toast of the host was called "Oあer" and the following toasts of the host were called "Rewards".The barons for Offer and "Gu" (3 times the size of baron)for Rewards. According to metrological standards in "Kaogongji", a Gu was 3 times the volume of a baron. The host must drink 10 liters at a banquet, which was seemingly contrary to common sense. However, there were different metrological standards in ancient and modern times. Sheng equaled to 200mL. Considering that wine in ancient China was made from rice, 10 Sheng of wine was roughly equivalent to 1 bottle of red wine in modern times.

結 語Conclusion

從廟堂到市井，一方小小的酒杯既滿足了口腹之欲，又憑添了生活情趣，更是傳統酒文化傳承發揚的必需品，承載著禮儀之邦的文明和智慧。

From royal to philistines, a small wine vessel not only satisfies appetite, but also adds fun to life. It is also a necessity for the inheritance and development of traditional wine culture, bearing the civilization and wisdom of a nation of etiquette.